PaulM

That seems a bit much. If they are treating you like a jet, ask for piston single speeds. Those 172's aren't doing 120kts in the pattern. I was just down in Marco, and Ft Myers approach had me in a 500'/min descent @ 160 kts. I had no problem slowing down around 3000', and had the gear down by 2000' with a 90kt straight in to Marco. I haven't landed at Naples for many years, but I remember a regular 90kt downwind to base to final. Perhaps it was a slow evening. At a class D I will be at 90kts in a downwind or base position. That allows plenty of time to slow to 75 on final. I've had downwind extended for 5 miles, I've done 360's but other than class B's "keep it up until 2 mile final" it is reasonable.

If you are being held at 5-6K above pattern until 5 miles by ATC perhaps you can ask to fly the IFR approach. Can you list your home airport, there might be history at a specific location. Approach control's job is to hand off traffic to tower at either around pattern height, or on a listed approach and they are usually 2000' AGL at 5 miles. The only time I seem to usually get slam dunked IFR are at remote rural airports where you are talking to Center, or a distant approach controller and they assume you can come down like a Jet. I just set my TOD to 500'/min and request the start of my descent. I have never had a problem in a C or D on being ready for about a 90kt downwind or base.. to end up on a 75kt final. If it is a class B/C that needs me to keep the speed up I can land with 1/2 flaps, and do final at 90kt..

I had similar issues with both the MP and Oil pressure in a G1000 system... If there is a connector (especially in the engine compartment) just disconnect it, spray the contacts with cleaner and insert and remove a couple of times to wipe the contacts clean. Wildly jumping values like that are connection or failing sensor issues.

Also remember the graph that maps the digital display against the amount in the tank(Page 19) https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SUPP0017H.pdf When it reads 0.0 you still have 1.5 Gal of fluid on board.

Then you don't know if it is an actuator issue or the indicator issue. #1.. reset the trim breaker. why not start easy. (pull it and reset) You can usually run the trim full left or full right and tell via the aileron interconnect and rudder position that the trim has actually moved, or in flight by making the slip/skid marker go from side to side. The most definitive way is to look at the trim system. From 27-40-02 E. Remove tailcone battery access cover (left side) and aft fiberglass belly panel to gain access to ruddertrim actuator assembly. I Think you can see/hear it from just opening the left battery access cover. run the trim system each way and see if the actuator moves.. if it doesn't.. then we start checking voltages to see if it is a control switch or limit switch, or motor issue. If it does move, then you check that the potentiometer is attached to the trim system, then we check the resistance with a meter.. it should change as the trim goes from side to side. Lastly would be to look into the connection to the G1000.. Also make sure you have compiled with https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SIM20-124A.pdf If it affects your Serial#.

The Ovation maintenance manual (Includes schematics for ranges including G1000 systems) can be found here: https://mooneyspace.com/topic/40077-man161-rev-b-m20r/ The G1000 only shows the position, it doesn't control the servo. When you say "stuck" is that it only goes one direction? or that it runs all of the time?. The switch is a split switch so it is unlikely to falsely provide power.. the way the circuit works is that power and ground is always provided to the switch. If both halves are pressed to one side, then the ground goes to circuit A and power to B, the motor will run in that direction until a microswitch is tripped to stop the motor at the end of travel. If pressed in the opposite direction then Power goes to A and ground to B and the motor will come off the limit switches and run the other way. So depending on what stuck means it could be limit switches, motor, or panel switch. Now if the actual rudder trim isn't stuck but the graph showing it on the panel doesn't move.. that is a sensor issue and that is connected to the G1000.

If you look at a video of how the speed-brakes interfere with the air on the top of the wing it interferes with the lift on the upper surface of the wing and causes air flow separation. That is not simply drag, but reduction of lift. Stall speed is based on angle of attack, and that does not noticeably change, but the sum total of lift is reduced. It can be a combo of lift reduction and added drag that requires a steeper path angle to maintain the constant airspeed. Let us say that the integral of pressure differences around the entire lifting surface is changed, and the result is a higher descent angle given the same approach speeds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysb5QIHcLSQ One could offset final by quite a bit, but then you are below the tree line and going though a channel blocked to the left and right by trees, It is better to take a steeper descent.

The main thing the speed-brakes do on final at regular approach speeds is they lower the lift (part of the lift area is disrupted) and therefore make the final approach angle steeper. One instructor I flew with liked using them all of the time, as "they made the plane approach like a piper" I only use them when there is an obstacle on final (or perhaps to save a close in instrument approach where I have to dive from the MDA) My home airport has a large tree on a hill directly on final and on a regular approach you have to "scare" the tree to land at the displaced threshold. If you descend from downwind with the speed-brakes out you can use the steeper angle to turn base earlier and to get a better buffer from that tree.

I had similar issues a number of years ago, as it kept getting harder and harder to start the Bravo, especially on warm restarts (after years of perfect behavior). It was loose points in the left mag. MSC did a shop rebuild, and it has been fine since. I've also been seeing (twice now) the "won't start until you release the starter".. So I'm watching that mag, and will probably put in a surefly if it continues to act up.

I tried to use a small mobility scooter, it did not have the torque to move the mooney. It wasn't even close. http://www.electrikmotion.com/citibughelpermain.htm A full power chair might have more torque, my friend with a power chair isn't near by so I can't ask him to test it out. Try and see if they will let you "try" it and see if it can pull with a strap. "If it will move my plane I will buy it"

This is essentially true. The control system in a Mooney is all pushrods, torque tubes and bell-cranks. The geometry of how the pieces connect are welded and set in the original jigs. It is the cable control system of the Cessnas and other aircraft that allow the possibility of mis-rigging as there are two connections between the controls and the flight surfaces, one to pull in one direction, the other cable to pull opposite. In the Mooney there is only a single connection for each flight surface, as the pushrods and torque tubes can provide force in both directions

I looked in the cockpit reference guide, and even the 2006 guide 190-00450-02 rev D includes the instructions on how to set it in the Timer window. So I think it is available in every version. but let us know your GDU version.. To refresh, mode S transponders have always required Flight ID.. so the original GTX33 had that feature, therefore all G1000 units support it. My 2008 G1000 Line maintenance manual (Which goes up to GDU 9.x) says: FLIGHT ID TYPE: Allows the technician to select Flight ID type: For operation requiring the flight crew to enter an aircraft identification designator each time the G1000 system is powered up, select the FLIGHT ID TYPE ‘PFD ENTRY’. When this choice is selected and the crew enters the Flight ID correctly upon startup, the flight number call sign for radio contact with ATC is the same flight identification that the GTX 33 Mode S transponder replies to ATC radar interrogations. Selecting PFD ENTRY allows the flight ID to remain the same as that entered during the previous flight until it is updated, the crew is not prompted to update the flight ID. The selections ‘SAME AS TAIL’ and ‘CONFIG ENTRY’ are fixed Mode S addresses. The two fixed selections do not require any transponder interaction from the flight crew, whereas ‘PFD ENTRY’ always does. Selection Description CONFIG ENTRY Allows technician to enter Flight ID while in configuration mode only. PFD ENTRY Allows pilot/technician to enter Flight ID at the PFD in normal mode. SAME AS TAIL It seems you need to change the G1000 config, or have your Garmin tech do it for you.. It would be perfectly safe for you to put the system into Maint mode and view the current setting to confirm you are set to "CONFIG ENTRY". Mine is set to CONFIG ENTRY. (under the XPDR1 page on the PFD). If Address Type is US Tail, allows Flight ID to use the same number.

I had my AC motor lock up on the way to the Summit last year. Air Mods took care of it during this years annual.. The rear bearing had disintegrated. $13 in bearings, $3000 in labor. It can be done without pumping down the AC system, there is just enough flex in the hoses to get the motor out.

Perhaps.. would depend on the squawk code, but they would want to follow up that you were VFR.. https://www.faa.gov/air_traffic/publications/atpubs/aim_html/chap5_section_2.html If the clearance void time expires, it does not cancel the departure clearance or IFR flight plan. It withdraws the pilot's authority to depart IFR until a new departure release/release time has been issued by ATC and is acknowledged by the pilot. Pilots who depart at or after their clearance void time are not afforded IFR separation and may be in violation of 14 CFR Section 91.173 which requires that pilots receive an appropriate ATC clearance before operating IFR in controlled airspace. Pilots who choose to depart VFR after their clearance void time has expired should not depart using the previously assigned IFR transponder code. I usually just pick up the IFR in flight because that is what my local ATC prefers, but they will also issue a hold for release and VFR departure because there are never delays in my area.. if They just have too much IFR traffic (Philly area, NYC area) then they may not let you pick up in the air. The controllers also have a procedure where you can ask for VFR departure and they will clear you the way they want. VFR RELEASE OF IFR DEPARTURE When an aircraft which has filed an IFR flight plan requests a VFR departure through a terminal facility, FSS, ARTCC Flight Data Unit, or air/ground communications station: After obtaining, if necessary, approval from the facility/sector responsible for issuing the IFR clearance, you may authorize an IFR flight planned aircraft to depart VFR. Inform the pilot of the proper frequency and, if appropriate, where or when to contact the facility responsible for issuing the clearance. PHRASEOLOGY- VFR DEPARTURE AUTHORIZED. CONTACT (facility) ON (frequency) AT (location or time if required) FOR CLEARANCE. If the facility/sector responsible for issuing the clearance is unable to issue a clearance, inform the pilot, and suggest that the delay be taken on the ground. If the pilot insists upon taking off VFR and obtaining an IFR clearance in the air, inform the facility/sector holding the flight plan of the pilot's intentions and, if possible, the VFR departure time.

Spiky fluctuations are often wiring related. I have found that both the MP and Oil Pressure sensor connectors in the G1000 will get dirty and exhibit this sort of issue. If I suspect this you take the top cowl off, remove both connectors, clean with contact cleaner and put them on and off a couple of times to wipe the contacts.

yes, the actual name matters. The names are listed in service bulletin M20_306B 4. Highlight file and rename according to the Models listed below: (see FIGURES SB-306-3 & 4) a.) M20M (or M20M.ace) b.) M20R_Ovation2GX (or M20R_Ovation2GX.ace) c.) M20R_Ovation3 (or M20R_Ovation3.ace) d.) M20TN (or M20TN.ace) I would try #3... then #2... depends on your splash page and if the RPM limit goes up to the 2700 Ovation3 limit. (remember to properly eject the SD card after each update)

What is your software version and what is the name of the checklist file?... They had to be renamed between -30 and -32 (or between two versions) And, if the card is not properly ejected it can be corrupted and won't be available for load. Depending on just what was changed some things work.. others don't, I just do a complete re-load of all of the current databases and make sure that you eject properly.

Another thing that can fail on Lycomings (so you should check it) is there is a jumper from the main 24V pad to the solenoid that is internal to the starter. If that fails, the main firewall solenoid will click.. you will have voltage everywhere in the circuit but the starter won't spin. These starters are re-purposed car design starters, so the main lug was designed to be connected to 24V all of the time, and then the start signal just sent to the solenoid in the starter. Airplane applications don't' want a hot, high current 24V line going past the engine and all of those fuel lines 24x7, so the solenoid is on the firewall, and the line to the starter is only under voltage during the start, and they use that little jumper to also activate the starter solenoid at the same time. I was AOG after a fuel stop for a couple of hours.. Luckily there was a mechanic that came (and it wasn't the weekend) Was it battery, is the main solenoid ok?.. we have good voltage at the starter, oh it fired... must have been a dead spot (no, we had just pushed the wire a bit) at that time we didn't really understand that you need to check both terminals are getting 24V. and for the DIY people, the nuts on that starter are metric, and not a size that is close enough for US wrenches to work.

Other than local flights, I will file and fly IFR unless I know that the controllers are going to be unreasonable with my route. They no longer send me to LAAYK for everything, but are still problematic about getting from south of NYC to boston. Where we know there is the 5000' corridor at JFK. Publish the IFR though routes and honor them. I did just fly down to southern Florida, and I have generally figured out how to file a route without getting moved by Orlando. I still haven't figured out how to finesse RSW. but on the way back, I knew that RSW would send me out of the way, so I just left VFR climbed to 7500 direct GNV, Direct. sailing over all the Class C and D space on the way. I listened to ATC, but didn't talk to them. The second leg was direct PXT, direct 1N7. Due to the restricted space around PXT I talked to them and couldn't get flight following at 7500.. it wasn't PXT's airspace, and wasn't center's either. I tried to pick up center closer to Wilmington, but was told to stand by, and they never returned another call... Normally PHL would snake me up the west side and drop my route very low. this day I just sailed right over at 7500.

My MSC has aluminum plates to replace the speed brake cartridges when they are sent out for repair. There is nothing in the manual or addendum at require the speed brakes to be used. They are not on the Kinds of operation equipment limits. Just a log entry, removed, inop.

You could add a GDL88, but that costs almost as much as the GTX345R. Since you have the GTX33ES and you must have WAAS GIA63W's to be ADSB compliant, I would upgrade to the GTX345R (or RD if you are going flying in Canada) and your avionics shop should be able to sell your GTX33ES. My ADSB-IN is down right now due to a technical glitch, and I miss the awareness that being on PFD/MFD provides.. the ipad just isn't the same. I felt that paying the extra $$ for the 345R was worth it for ADSB compliance rather than upgrading the GTX33 to ES. I had the option for both, I just wish now that they had the GTX345RD at the time, since it looks like the future outside of the US will be satellite ADSB and therefore need two antennas.

The GTX345R will definitely get you ADSB in.. Older GTX33& 33ES transponders will display TIS-A traffic from the mode S radars that are configured to send TIS-A. All G1000 systems have had that capability. You would have to zoom in and see if the flight ID or speed shows up in the traffic display to know if that display is ASDB or just the original TIS. It could also be a L3-Skywatch TCAS. you can't really tell without looking at the LRU list. When the GTX345R is installed you loose TIS-A but replace it with the TIS-B and TIS-R traffic.

The Wiring diagram for a 2005 M20M shows a fuse between the battery #2 relay and the voltage converter. Rather than say all of the fuses look fine, what are the voltages on the orange wire (28v) and red wire (14v)

this issue has been that the part# listed: 110-773 (Rev B ) Should be a standard ARTEX part. https://www.acrartex.com/products/110-773-whip-antenna-dual-band/ https://www.cobham.com/media/184642/110-773_rev a_rev b antenna drawing.pdf so what makes it a magical under the dorsal fin Mooney Antenna?. We suppose that the factory has the official answer, but I'm going to say a jig, that bends the antenna to fit, and a piece of paper saying they tested it that way. Is the factory the only place that can bend an antenna?.. That would be up to the A&P or avionics shop. Original mooney jig's aren't required to fix wings, weld landing gear etc and other repairs that affect the airworthiness of the airframe. This would be a minor alteration. Somebody should send a borescope up the tail of a post 2010 Mooney and duplicate the result.

Oil is listed as 10Qt total capacity. This is what we fill my Bravo up to and it spits out none of it. It then burns about 1 qt every 5 hours, so I let it drift down to 7 qt, (15 hours) add one, then let it finally drift to 6 right in time for the 25 hour oil change. If the last 5 hours are long X-C where I can't watch the levels, then I'll toss in another qt. Any extra oil consumption over the normally expected amount indicates a leak, and I have had to tighten up the oil injection lines twice. the 1st time was accompanied by at least a doubling of consumption. As for TKS, I run that every 2-3 months and that has been fine, it all depends on how well your panels wet out.. if they don't like to completely wet, then you want to run it more often to help with that.