BDPetersen

My dad bought a J-3 in 1946, soon after I was born. Reportedly my first airplane ride was in it. Soon traded it for the Stinson I still have, but I did run at finding the Cub. Was told it was lost in a hangar fire in Mexico Missouri. Oddly the N number, 92123, still showed being owned by someone around there. Attempts to make contact did not work. I should try again. I guess I would be wishing for a part or logbook. My point is, sentiment is a powerful force for some of us.

So, to follow up, after a couple days of off and on effort, I managed to get one ear pad installed. Could not get the second. Even handed the project off to others with no luck. I decided to give Oregon Aero a shot. They just arrived and after a few minutes of struggle they are installed. Seems a better, softer flange. Perhaps the Bose pads had a defect. Dunno, but I will send them back to Sportys. Additionally I can report Bose support is disappointing. Seems to be a language barrier. Oregon Aero was the owner, I presume, and quite helpful.

The description seems to refer to something else

Trying to understand what the Amazon pads are offering for attachment

Maybe that’s why I use my Lightspeeds more.

I’m pretty sure this is mentioned in the Geneva Convention. I’m usually not that inept at such. I’m slightly puzzled that the replacements have a round cross section while the old ones are more rectangular. I wonder for the Oregon Aero pads are easier. Always been a fan of those. OK, I’ll stop whining now. I think if the headset was separated it would be less frustrating. Reaching for my sawzall.

Not the answers I hoped for. I’ve lost count of attempts.

Maybe the larger question is “why”. Certainly an empty filter doesn’t create a fatal air bubble. I just put in 7 quarts instead of 6. Now, the fuel filters on my diesel tractor are a different story, but even there I have a work around.

Yikes. Is there a technique or tool to master changing the ear pads on an A20? The guy in the Sporty’s video makes it look easy. Maybe the new ones they sent me are too stiff. I’m sure it couldn’t be me. (The issue is getting a retainer flange into a narrow slot around the circumference of the ear up.)

Me too.

Duh. Of course you’re right. The “A” was the second iteration, not the first. The engines were the C145 which I’ve never known the exact difference from the O-300. Lots of time in the 170B. Doesn’t get much better than that, especially with the O-360 conversion ( except 4 cylinders just don’t sound right).

Rag wing (170A) needs 2 struts.

Hmmm. Looks like my carefully organized hangar.

As they said in college, “intuitively obvious to the casual observer”. A 170A.

I’ve attended a couple times in mine. Not a problem in the”C”. Mind you it is short and keeping the nose light (“stick” back) always a good technique on grass. Runway was good, taxiing to parking a bit rough. Conditions should be dry and it looks like wind will be down the runway. Check out the various YouTube videos.

A unique experience. Worth the challenge.

June order arriving next week, 9/20. Tempest, Spruce.

In my case the accessory case interface with the sump had been sealed with the “red stuff”. The ooze suddenly got much worse which I attribute to the sump pad heater becoming partially detached causing it to overheat and soften the sealant.

Yikes. I just posted my experience trying to find an oil leak and pulling the engine to find that the sump gasket was oozing with little physical evidence. Withe the engine out, removing the sump was easy enough. I never decided if the job could be done with the engine in situ, but I suppose there may be a way with patience. I wish you luck. You’re ahead of the game knowing exactly what your problem is. My leak was from a compromised gasket where the accessory case mates with the sump. I suppose if that were known to be the problem the accessory case could be removed and resealed, but that would be a gamble. It’s nice to no longer have oil puddles next to the nose wheel.

Hmmm. Flashbacks of Dutch roll recovery training in the 707-320. Yaw dampers off, press a rudder to induce a yaw and hang on in hopes the recovery technique is timed properly. Good thing the Mooney doesn’t have swept wings.

Just had a positive experience with my Plane Power system which began to whine in headset and show low voltage. A call to PP support had me talking to a fellow who talked me through troubleshooting with a digital voltmeter. Determined it to be the alternator not the regulator. Had me fill out a warranty claim on their website, sent me an RMA and I shipped it off for replacement. Waaay out of warranty.

Good advice, I’m sure. At my activity level throwing another $50 transponder at the problem is attractive. I suppose there is some market for my skybeacon adsb.

Dilemma is to find a 76 or if unable convert to a 76A or C. That involves more installation time than one would expect, but make future replacements a bit easier as both are interchangeable. Or just bite a bigger bullet and go with something new. My 1980-ish navcom stack doesn’t demand better. Spent a few decades flying behind glass and I don’t mind the nostalgic trip down memory lane when I fly my old stuff.

Transponder check today. Failed. Looking for a simple fix. KT76 TSO. Not KT76A or C. Could use A or C, but they aren’t a slide-in and would require installation. Seem to be a lot on eBay, but prefer one that works. Let me know if you have a good one to sell. To make life even more interesting, on the way back a whining in the headset (it wasn’t me) made me monitor the alternator output. It was low and directly followed engine rpm. Plane Power. Unless I find a loose connection, I’m assuming a diode problem. As I recall, you don’t fix the Plane Power but replace. Am I right? Wonder what the third thing will be.