Mark942

I replaced the original equipment generator with a Plane Power 70 amp alternator 8 years ago when my wife first bought the plane for me (another story for a different time), and I had to cut around on the baffle about an inch or so as I remember and there was another area that was exposed to allow air through so I custom fit baffling to make it match up. Have had no heat issues and the alternator has been flawless. -mark

Thanks everyone. More helpful and accurate than ChatGPT or Google. What a GREAT resource for us Mooney drivers.

I'd like to replace the burn your fingers, current-hog, ancient red spot lights we have in the ceiling with leds. Any suggestions? I'd really like to find a nice set of lithium compact directional lamps with on/off switch that could be clip mounted. Battery powered to provide non - ships power lights. My panel has it's own lighting so this would provide a good independent backup lighting system.

Thanks again guys, -mark

Thanks guys, I'm going to ask my AP/IA to take a look at it with me. When I first got the plane it was the same, and I asked my AP at the time (an old timer) if that was ok, and he said yeah, they're all like that so I never worried about it but always check it as part of my pr-flight walk around to make sure it has not changed. My current AP/IA has looked at it and said it is alright, but I want it really checked out. Thanks again guys, -mark

A little off topic, but should you be able to lift the tail nose cone about a 1/4" during preflight inspection? I've always been able to do this. Kind of bothers me, but trim and stability during flight is perfect. Thanks, -mark

Let us know what Savvy has to say. Photos can be deceiving, and not under a Black Light, but looks to me like a defect in the paint and a bit of rust under the paint crack leaching out. I've seen a lot of cracks in medical orthopedic devices that are penetrant inspected. That looks like micro welding inconsistencies to me that have been there since manufacture. I agree with others that swapping it out for a salvage unit is not value added. Please keep us posted, and best of luck. -mark

I have a 64E. My Trim indicator works fine, but it is difficult to really look at since it's located down by my shins, and it is not illuminated. I practiced takeoffs until I had a setting that I liked the most. Then I placed a 1/2 inch Magic Marker line along the edge of the cover that goes directly over the tail hinge and slides along the tail as trim is changed. Now, looking at this "indicator" mark is simply a part of my walk around checklist. I also filed a small 1/16 inch rounded notch in the edge of the trim wheel in the cabin. I can "feel" this notch as I adjust the trim. I know it should be at 12 o-clock high with the mark at the edge of the cover. Very fool proof, and intuitive feedback to me about where the trim is set. If the "indicator mark" starts to fade, it takes 2 minutes about once a year to freshen it up. Just how I do it.

Meigs was GREAT. I have landed there multiple times in a Cherokee 140 back in the day. Fly up and land, walk to McCormic Place to see equipment at a trade show, then fly home all in one day. Several night take off's out of Meigs. All VFR. Young pilot afraid of comms with the big guys at ATC. Later landed at MidWay in my little puddle jumper and got Red Carpet treatment at the FBO. Cheaper overnight parking than in the car garage. Those were the days my friend, we thought they would never end...

Corn_Flake, will your mounting allow the visor to swing to the side window?? I have a 64E and need new visors and would like to be able to swing them to the side window like modern cars do. Thanks, -mark

So, just to go on record. Greed has no limits. The easier the scam, the more likely it will happen. Using ADSB (Federal System) to enable a private company to convince the local airport this is found money ??? What is the down side to simply refusing to pay that specific fee?? Probably less than a $100 fee. Now the local airport has to put effort into collecting. Probably the end of the effort. Just my 2 Cents.

The topic is flying IFR without an AP. I just stated that because of technical issues with my AP and complexity of my new IFD 550, that while Learning to fly IFR by hand I felt behind the airplane. Lots to do, while maintaining a heading and altitude along with all the other new demands of IFR flight that I originally felt behind the airplane. That's why we spend so many hours doing the training. We train, and then train some more until we master it. Then maintain proficiency by practicing more hours than are required by the regs. I think almost everyone feels Behind the Airplane in their early hours of training ???

I did 95% of my IFR training by hand flying. I have an Avidyne IFD550 with Stec 60-2 AP with VS. My instructor was not familiar enough with the IFD or the Stec to help me figure out the buttonology so I was taught hand flying and behind the airplane all the time. Got through it but at 70 years old, it seemed harder than I remember doing in a C140 with wing leveler 40 years earlier (never took check ride because of failed GS on VOR and then work). Fast forward to a more complex plane, a VERY capable GPS navigator and an AP that did strange things (about $6000 in shop time spread over 3 separate shops and a year of frustration) finally got it wired correctly, but at the time I was doing my training it simply added to the confusion. Now with everything working, I find flying in actual IMC without a hood easier than the old fashioned hood. My bifocals made it hard for me to use foggles. Now add in the AP and I feel I'm ahead of the airplane. I will sometimes turn it off part way into the final approach course and hand fly just for the fun of it. Just wish I could find a simulator that had my equipment in it (IFD and Stec).

What does this topic have to do with Mooneys or aviation in general. MooneySpace is one of the few places I can visit on the internet that is NOT political. Yes, I am certain we all have our opinions, but we don't preach or discuss them on the forum. It is about helping each other as pilots and owners of a Mooney. I really don't want to see this forum head down the slippery path of how divided our country is now and which state (Red or Blue) is best. The originator of this post has made it clear his position and other's have tip toed around the issue. Where is our Moderator to simply state that this is not a proper topic for this forum and shut this thread down.

Harbor Freight or garage sales or auctions. Buy sockets, and wrenches for cheap because you will need to use a hand grinder to cut off, grind down, heat with torch and bend in odd angles. Keep a drawer in your tool box for all the modified tools you accumulate. Saves a ton of time having a tool that is bent just right or has half the end ground off so you can get it on. Duct tape or painter's blue tape over a boxed end wrench to keep the nut from falling in to never land. EXTRA long 24" or 36" screw drivers and multiple socket set extensions are really handy. Remember, buy cheap and many so you can make them work. Sure cuts down on time and frustration. Also, replace Phillip screws that are removed several times a year. They get rounded out a little and then all of a sudden, you are spending two hours trying to get it out. Eazy outs are also needed once in a while (this would be an exception to buying cheap - buy good ones). Also, flexible scopes that pair to your cell phone for getting a good view where you can't see. Beats a mirror on a stick. Amazon has a lot of cheap ones that would have been very expensive 10 years ago. -mark

Great News !! Thanks for all your incredible steadfast work. Well done. -mark

I applaud the honest effort that was put into pursuing legal and proper methods to provide new gear sets for our birds. The "drawings" that I saw were simply sketches. They could have been sketches of anything. They did NOT have drawing numbers, revisions or approvals in the title block. Until "engineering drawings" are approved through some method, they are not truly engineering drawings. The author of those sketches could also not be held liable for what someone might try to do with that information. He did not suggest nor condone any action. He was simply providing sketches of his efforts to understand the problem. I appreciate his efforts to help all us Mooney drivers. There is no harm in knowledge. I do not fear the self righteousness, self appointed internet police. For now, it's still a free country. I am re-posting below, some sketches I found on the internet. -mark VIEWS OF 3D FILES WORM SET 7-10-24.pdf WORM GEAR DWG 7-10-24.pdf WORM SHAFT DWG 7-10-24.pdf

WOW !! Thanks for the recap. Considering that our engines are antique technology these prices are just insane. So my engine has 500 HSMO and $60K added into the panel in the past 5 years and an airworthy air-frame wrapped around it... why are planes like mine selling for a $100K at best?? I think we are all nuts. Nothing like enjoying a hobby that costs about $10K a year even if you only fly one hour, and can get you killed if you don't do everything just right. Just sayin... I think we are all nuts.

Agree. Well Done!

I've tried several versions and they all are limiting more than just "View". I finally made my own. It is similar to the "Super Hood" but I made mine out of a cut-up cereal box. The cardboard is stiff enough to work, but not heavy. I have a "Duct Tape" hinge at the front of my ball cap so I can simply lift it up. I have velcro on the TOP of the bill so that it holds the limiter up and out of the way and doesn't allow it to fall down in front of my face during landing. That could be bad. I have bi-focal glasses and trying to cock my head around so I can see things on the panel or read the fine text on the chart on my yoke has been frustrating. I find that actual IMC is so much easier than simulated with a crummy hood. I had to experiment with several cereal boxes but finally found something that is pretty simple and actually works. An examiner might want me to fine tune the sides a bit, but I don't pay attention to the light coming through the sides, so for me to practice and stay current and proficient, it works. Like I said, IMC for me is easier than with the limiter.

Hi, I have my old generator and regulator in a box. I replaced with plane-power alternator and regulator in the first few months that I owned my 1964 M20E about six years ago. It was all working fine, I just wanted to start upgrading the plane and this was one of the first things that I did. I'll give these to you free if you want to pay for shipping. I live in Indiana and that old generator is a heavy slug, so I have no idea how much it would cost to ship. Let me know if you are interested. I don't check MooneySpace every night but I usually do 2 or 3 times a week. -mark

Thanks @Andy95W I think I will ask my AP/IA if I can install this drain this winter as a nice little Hanger project. Always thought it odd that I couldn't find a way to drain the line. Thanks for the clarification. -mark

Hi, I've owned my "E" for 6 years now and do almost all the maintenance TLC improvements myself with the help of a good AP/IA that looks over my shoulder. Having said that, I have an Alternate Static Air Valve under the panel installed by the avionics shop that did my panel upgrade. It is SO stiff that I can't turn it without a pair of pliers (another story about this horrible avionics shop in Fort Wayne), but I have never looked for the static drains. Does anyone have photos of where these drains are so I can start checking these. Thanks in advance.

I'm also interested in other people's experience with this. My E is probably overall in worse shape with paint than his. I've been upgrading and restoring my plane for 5 years and it flies Great and is becoming very mechanically sound, but the paint sucks. I really don't want to spend north of $20K to have it repainted, although I know that is what attracts a new buyer. I'm 73 so I won't be flying too many more years and will need to sell. I'm a DIY guy and have a very experienced and good AP/AI that helps me. Thank you "TheDude" for starting this thread.

Same here. Good tip on a place to buy glasses at a more reasonable price. Also really appreciate all the insight from all of you into what I should expect following my cataract surgery.