ShermAv8tor

I agree & explained that to him!

Wow this thread is really going like wild fires in California! So back to the conversion quesstion & why…I’ve sold the plane and I’m doing the annual for the new buyers AFTER they had an independent shop do the prebuy…get that out of the way before that goes off the rails on here…so the buyers are at my hangar & it’s on jacks and they ask…can we try to swing the gear? Sure! One of them had a hell of a time doing it, so they asked about converting…reason for the post…but like I said I was doing the annual and before the guy tried to do the gear swing I had just finished up inspecting belly, jbar, etc. I had pushed the boot up on the jbar to get it out of the way for inspection…don’t think I pulled it back down, belly panels installed, I’m focusing on annual they are focusing on new to them plane, sooooooo…I think the boot may be binding up in the flor area which is why he couldn’t lock the bar in…poor guy…first experience…anyway I won’t know for sure till I get back from vacation next week to look! Thanks for all the info & we will see where this goes…

Are there still conversion kits out there and who sells them? Anyone ever been involved with doing this mod and know how labor intensive it is? Thanks

Here's a different question....When the pre-loads are set to the high side, is the J-Bar more difficult to move through the motions, especially towards the end of travel? Conversely if the pre-loads were adjusted to the low end, would the J-bar be easier to swing? Although I use the words Low & High, I do mean that the pre-loads are still within spec for the plus/minus range written in the maintenance manual.

SOLD!! Sorry guys I thought I had circled back on this and marked it as sold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry Always late to the party Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Installed a WAAS 430 in its place, no experience with the Avidyne Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sold

http://www.brittainautopilots.com/

Hi Keith,Just out of curiosity where did you get the B hub? Did you pony up for the new one or found used? I just did the AD compliance and talked extensively about options with the prop shop (red dye, B hub) and financially based on how much I personally fly, I’m just sticking with the A hub. I am also an AP/IA. The shop has been around a long time and the owner did say they have never seen the Mooney props with issues, but the Beech they have found cracked and more prevalent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$4400.00 14/28 VDC Garmin 430 non-WAAS, PN 011-0028-10, removed for panel upgrade. Unit works great, and is a solid performer. This unit has mod level’s 1-6 & Mod 7 as seen in the pics. Mod 7 gives the unit Terrain capability. The screen is in great condition. Terrain & nav data base dated July 2017. Includes brand new rack, brand new Garmin connector kit including nut bars, the back plate is used. Includes used Garmin GA 56 Antenna. Everything you need for complete install. The pics uploaded in different orientations....I will take Paypal Sherman 9727303832

Not that I’m trying to burst your bubble cuz it looks great, but a metal scraper on the metal wing??? Big no no & should use plastic or phenolic scraper instead. Did you reapply the zinc chromate paint over all the bare metal?? I really hope so.... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

+1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will this read through the windshield from inside cockpit or does it have be outside to read? I borrowed one awhile back, but don't remember brand, etc, I had to stick my hand out pilot side window and point at prop to get it to read…hang on tight!! [emoji15] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Brian, I already picked one up, good luck with selling it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All great answers and replies, I know I will have to come up with my own. I think the thread sparked a lot of great thoughts and comments. Thanks again for the help! I hope everyone enjoyed their Thanksgiving…now bring on Christmas!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You sell this yet? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

100 bucks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone for the great info, it causes me to look at things differently…I brought this up as I had a recent flight with a CFI, he stated I should be able to pick a power setting referencing the MP, and I should not have to adjust throttle much from there to maintain speed and have a nice stabilized approach, perhaps my throttle adjustments were not as minute as he thought they should be, as I was chasing speed quite a bit. I shoot for 80 on final and as Mentioned earlier once I have the field made I reduce further and hope for 70ish over the numbers. I'm still in the learning mode, but I don't think that ever goes away with this airplane…I don't have 100 hrs in it yet [emoji17] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just looking to see what everyone else is using for a setting, I seem to be chasing it sometimes, Ives used 12, 11 & sometimes 10, but have heard others using 14? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Rob, I am interested, however I may have to wait until after all the holidays. How effective is this system on the carborated C models? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the exact same issue, turned out to be the wiring between the start switch and the mags, it was grounding itself out on the shield to core in the p-leads - I decided to run all new wiring and install all new p-leads - problem solved. I was able to find it by ohming out the wires and when I wiggled the wiring around it showed up. Good luck, electrical problems can be time consuming chasing something else…like the carb. If it's the bendix ignition switch, there is a SB that you can use to ohm & check that as well with an ohm meter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love your new plane! Congrats on the acqusition!

that will be me in the future, Bonanza is where I wanted to start, but no complex time and no one would insure me as such a low time pilot....maybe one day!