Aerodon

I had a bunch of 'NO STEP' 'NO PUSH' 'ELT LOCATED HERE' made at a local sign shop. Also registrations etc. Hardest part is choosing a font and font size, I think Helvetica or Helvetica Bold are the ones to use. This is what I put on my Cessna 172/180 conversions, it was quite hard to find the font that looked like the original 'SKYHAWK II'. Aerodon

The 'go to' documents for this are the Type Certificate, The Supplemental Type Certificate and the Owners manuals, later called the Pilots Operating Handbook. The TC list airspeeds in MPH and Knots from 1955 on. It seems to have everything listed except the stall speed, required to setup your GI-275. Now it gets a little interesting, prior to 1967 there is no requirement for an Owners Manual, so for all intents, whatever you have is an 'information manual' and use it or not at your own discretion. (Sure I would like to have the performance charts matching the ASI units). Then Note 2 lists the Placards, it is very specific, somewhere in the middle of M20J/K production Mooney changed from MPH to Knots. The Placards are very specific, with speeds listed in MPH, but if you had new ones made in MPH (KTS) showing both, I think they would still be acceptable. So because your plane is prior to 1967, I think the installer can use the speeds in Knots, redo the placards to show MPH and Knots. I do not know what stall speeds (with and without flaps) to use, other than converting from your old ASI? Aerodon

OK, here's how I would go about it: According to this thread (below), the 'new engine' is on the Type certificate, check that it is and your serial number is in the correct range. This allows you to install the different engine. Then get a part manual and start comparing your engine installation parts vs. say a late model M20J (hopefully the M20J towards the end of the line had separate magnetos?). Aerodon

I would be worried if the guy doing the installation could not get his head around hoses without a part number. These are normally replaced every 8 years and at engine changes. If the STC is not clear enough, then use the original installation for guidance. Quite probable that things move a round a bit, and easy to order hoses with correct fittings from aero hose shop. Aerodon

I have an extra transponder now, one must go. GTX345 for $4500, encoder $250, includes new install kit. GTX345R with GPS - use a GI275 or G3X to control this remote transponder $5500 New GDL82 with antenna $1600 - add this to a GTX327 or other transponder for ADSB out. Aerodon

When batteries get old, they lose the ability to provide the current required for starting. A new battery might start 10 times in a row without recharging, and old one might have worked last time and just doesn't work this time. Can you borrow a battery? Or try a battery cart at the FBO?

You've checked about everything else, with the rear mounted battery there could be a lot of problems along the way: 1) Battery positive and ground terminals, Contactor (master solenoid) at rear. 2) Starter solenoid - its on the firewall in front of the circuit breaker panel. 3) Starter cable from solenoid to starter 4) Engine ground cable. With a 28V system, the wire size generally isn't a problem, but I would still look for bad crimps, half broken terminals, washers in place, nuts torques etc. Aerodon

You might have two rivets to remove on the pilots side too. This is what the cover and space looks like. Two rivets on the side, two screws and fender washers top and another two on the bottom.

This is the bracket I made to replace the plastic cover on the Mooney pedestal. The two large holes on the bottom are to stick a screwdriver through to tighten the top screw. I might have to remake it, the post lights might get in the way of the screwdriver for the top screws. The two bottom slots are for the bottom screws. Both top and bottom are adjustable to get the front face aligned with the pedestal on the sides. Unlike the original, the sides are open, but I can live with that because it is out of sight. I can make more on my CNC machine, with any cutouts for USB, annunciator, gauges etc. Aerodon

Todd, you can go to local electronics store and buy a USB adaptor (or a cable to match). I think if you google this you will see what you need. Mini USB to USB A OTG Adapter,Straight Mini USB 5 Pin Male to USB Type A Female Adapter

Mate n Lok come in all sorts of variations. Yes, some are friction lock, but some have detent that lock quite firmly. I think the pins are rated for about 13A, and they get used all the time in airplanes for landing lights, strobes, FF transducers etc. They are lightweight and easier to secure to a wiring harness than CPC. I have gold plated pins and would use these for servos. I have the luxury of all sorts of crimpers, so can do Mate n Lok, CPC, AMP, Microfit etc. An all sizes of high quality shrink tubing, Aerodon

Molex (Mate 'n Lock) are not bad, especially if you find gold plated pins, have the correct crimper and make sure you get the 'locking' shells. Mooney 'overused' CPC connectors, but they are nice too, with high quality pins and sockets. Trick is whatever you use, get the proper crimpers and pins. Aerodon

Have a look at this recent thread with pictures. Loosening the 2 screws from the front should release a 'clamp' and then the unit will slide forward. Then there are 4 crews holding the connectors in place. That plastic surround also comes out.

Price revised, $99 without the Serial Cable, $129 with the cable. (You should already have this cable, but I know, they do get lost). Aerodon

Macfarlane supplies the at about $5 each: https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/M1020-10/?q=spinner washers&search_type=product&index=6&page=1

I don't think JPI sell these anymore, I have a nice one with the power cable - plug into the cigar lighter and the data port of your EDM700 or 800 and download the data for analysis. If you have lost your serial cable, $129 plus shipping. Aerodon

another good system available now....

they are the mounting screws that hold a U-shaped bracket at the back that clamps the KC290 to the panel. Aerodon

Pins are also available on eBay. But be careful, there are different sizes (height of pin), I guess for slightly different bach shells or board thickness? Spend the extra $$ and buy from the guys you have them still packed in the BK packets. Aerodon

I have a couple of spare clips for you, I could not find a Mfg. name or part number. I also have these click bonds, epoxy to the face of the rib and position the cable clamp away from the edge of the big hole in the rib. Aerodon

I checked the manuals - the GFC must be connected to a son alert if it is not connected to an unswitched input on the audio panel. Then the GTN750 allows you to vary the volume of both the headset and speaker levels for unswitched audio 1 thru 4. So it is quite feasible to get unswitched alerts on your speaker and have the volume way down on the headsets. Or vice versa. And quite easy to fix in the settings. I learn something new everyday. Don

Are you sure it is the cabin speaker and not one of the sonalerts right next to it? As far as I know, the GFC500 can be setup to use either an unswitched input on the audio panel or a sonalert? Aerodon

Ron, We went around this circle recently. Tal was looking for a replacement tachometer to go with his mechanical tacho generator. I have a spare tachometer (same part number) but with a hall effect transducer on the magneto (I have a spare one of that too). But he found one that came out of a Mooney with a tachogenerator. So you need to get over some hurdles first: 1) accept that even if new is available it is going to be really expensive. 2) figure out if you have a hall effect or mechanical signal generator. 3) Is your fault with the signal generator or gauge? Then replace, Don

The factory will convert from S2 to S5 for about $90. Don

I have a 40x40" AXYZ CNC router. Use 0.125" end mill bits with a misting spray. A panel like the one above has about 180 shapes and takes about an hour to cut. I can do things like match drill the Radiorax and various flush mounts that go behind the panel. Hardest part is getting the mounting holes accurate, overtime I cut a template I seem to get closer but there is always one or two that don't match nicely. The factory must have just hand drilled the holes and put a rivet in the tube or bracket and used the rubber mounts to take up the misalignment. Aerodon