peevee

Nope, nothing else. Just a lot of time. Then another 2k to troubleshoot problems

Av17 install on our old k was 5k in labor

Hey watch this chandelle....

That could be the sonalert going out yeah

Ours did for awhile. Couldn't get it to chirp on landing but takeoff would tickle it. Then as I said it just stuck on. We'll see if the new one is better

Our manual calls for boost pump off for takeoff. Does the j call for boost pump on?

How can adjustment make the horn stay on at 70kias and not a peep at 65 in the flare?

lasar has the retrofit kit - 940065-505 on the shelf for just over $500, considering they want $325 for a used one that's looking like maybe the sensible choice.

this is interesting http://www.mooney.com/en/mooney-shares.html I hadn't seen it mentioned here before. I'm still not interested in a $800k single though

Ours basically did about the same thing and then stayed on permanently one day, maybe your switch is just getting flaky? If you have the old safe flight design, I can't find a replacement switch and it's riveted together (not necessarily a problem but...) If you have the newer retrofit design, it's a $15 micro switch and a little fiddling. Held on with 2 screws. if you want to buy the safe flight design new, it's $1800 if you want the safe flight design overhauled by safe flight, it's $1200 if you want a new retrofit kit from lasar, it's about $550 That's what I've learned over the past 48 hours re: stall switches. Oh, and used either retrofit or safe flight I only see one of each for sale right now and they're $325. I went with new from LASAR. I would definitely flood yours as best you can with contact cleaner and see if you can degunk it.

Man that is close, too wide I think though. I think it's backwards though, I think you push down on the roller to close the switch, I need the pivot point ahead of the switch so it closes when the lever goes up No other markings I have a couple pics - I kind of got stuck with 2 threads on this so I get mixed up what's in which. The switch I have is 5/8" wide Might be worth a drive to Grainger to see what they have, much easier in person to compare

Seriously though, about those beignets....

I'm certain they are but I haven't found the switch. Maybe they stopped making them and they bought a few thousand to stock up or something? Dunno. The switch is even stamped micro and some city and state. I can't find anything based in the numbers on the switch, 8011 or 1108 iirc

Yep. It's still flaky.

It better for what they charge. If they were smart they'd give them to Mooney for free counting on the repair business. If your experience the retrofit goes in easy I'll probably go that route.

Good point.

I see your point. I'll grab the retrofit design. Thanks for the input. I like having a serviceable unit.

ok! Thanks! If it was your plane which would you put in, the retrofit or a used safe flight?

Does it bolt right up? It seems superior and it's the same cost and as you say if I can change the switch maybe it's the way to go? Our face plate the screws you back off to adjust the switch are on opposing corners, it appears that one they're side by side. I'm nervous to buy it because it's so different. Even the tab is shaped differently. And the ad says it came off a c model

Ours was right above the front passengers feet, silver box maybe 4x4

I think you're right. I think the design differences are feeding my confusion

boy that looks close, but it looks backwards, like the switch closes when the arm is pushed down and not up. If that makes sense? I think you're right, I think it's a custom switch. I didn't see dimensions in the tech sheet, Hrmmm very vexing. edit: found em. maybe SLIGHTLY wide, the existing is only 5/8" wide MICRO SWITCH Standard 25,4 mm H x 17,8 mm W x 50,8 mm L [1.0 in H x 0.7 in W x 2.0 in L]

Yep, the cover rivets to the switch and then the cover rivets to the face plate.

you guys with the "newer style" that used that honeywell, does your assembly look like this? this is listed as a retrofit kit for the one I have, it might be a good buy.

as the air catches the stall tab it moves up, the pivot is ahead of the button on the miroswitch. when the arm moves up, the tail moves down, pressing the button, closing the circuit. Note I lied and arm is on correctly.