isaacpr7

Grrrrr.... At this point I am getting very frustrated trying to find a mx that can help me with the mag problem. Every time I find one I get the "I am a sheet metal guy" answer. The problem is that there is an A&P school here next to Fort Campbell and the guys who work on helicoters go to this school for a nine hour course and get their A&P license. So far, this is what I found: The P lead on the left was completely broken. After having it redone, now the will not fire up at all. But if you disconnect the "repaired" P lead, it will fire right up. The P lead on the right only has the outer wire mesh broken at the base of the round nut. I will try to crank it with the P lead off so that I can at least rule out the p lead as the only problem (being careful to stay clear of the prop and having a mx with me of course).

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I will seek help from another mx on this issue. Sort of like a second opinion when you go see another Dr I will keep you guys posted on the outcome.

So my mx tells me he is not too savy on electrical issues but this is what we found out about the magneto: When we selected "L" on the ignition switch and checked for continuity on the right mag, it would read 000. When we selected "R" on the ignition switch and checked for continuity on the right mag, it would read in the hundreds. Based on this, my mx determined that seleting "L" on the ignition switch turns off my right mag. This tells me that if I select "R" while running up I am actually turning off my only operating mag (the left one) and this is why my engine is stalling with "R" selected. What do you guys think?

Thanks for all the feedback guys. My mx will take a look at it tomorrow and at least now I have some ammunition Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input guys. I will have my mx check it out. I just needed to know what all the possibilities would be so that when my mx starts troubleshooting I could get a warm and fuzzy that I am getting clocked for the right thing. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I'm a bit confused because when my MX was troubleshooting my mags in the past, he stated that when I select the left mag I am actually turning the left mag off and testing the right one. This did not make sense to me but he said that some aircraft are wired that way. Right now if I select the left mag do ot notice any RPM drop as I should when doing a mag check. As far as the second avionics master switch (installed in place of one of the circuit brakers) he stated that people back in the day would install a secondary switch in case their primary system would fail. The way this seconday switch would work before the issue started was that I could power my avionics without turning the battery switch on and the only way I could power the avionics with the battery switch on was by flipping the primary switch.

So I finished installation of all my interior panels after a long remodeling process and now my avionics master switch will not power my avionics. The only thing I can think that would have anything to do with it is when I disconnected the speaker and lighting wires on the overhead panel. I have always had an additional switch in the circuit breaker panel that also powers my avionics as an alternate source but now it is the only way I can get power to the avionics. I also noticed that when I cranked the aircraft to run it up, the aircraft wants to shut down if I select the right magneto. When I select the left magneto I don't even get a drop on RPM. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be causing these issues?

Bob, Thanks for the info. I will look into that. I will also move this thread. I posted this issue using Tapatalk and it ended up on the wrong side.

Scott, You are right about the nightmare. I now know why shops charge so much money to do this kind of work. If I could have afford it, I probably would have had someone else do it. The biggest frustration putting it all together was figuring out where all the bags of screws belonged and making some hairline cracks as I was forcing the one of the panels back in place. As far as the putty goes, mine did not show up through the texture. I used SEM flexible texture paint (only comes in black) for all the repair areas and SEM white plastic paint to go over it. Because the textured paint was black it took multiple coats to cover it up.

I called the company you referred me to and they don't sell the part I was talking about. It is the J channel that holds the windlace in place.

So I was supposed to be done with the installation today but had a minor setback. As I was drying the last coat of paint on the overhead panes, the wind picked it up and when it hit the ground it broke a corner. This means that I have to re-fiber the panel and start over again before I can install it. It will set me back several days but I am glad to be almost done with the project. Here are some pics for those of you that have been helping with suggestions throughout the process:

Latest updates on my interior remodel: I had to take a few weeks of leave so that I could get the project going but the cold wx cut into my fiberglass drying times. I am done with the panels and began installation but I ran into a small problem you guys might be able to help with. My wind lacing was torn to pieces so I purchased some new one and I cannot install it because the piece that holds it in place (looks like a "J" channel of some sort) is also broken to pieces. Does anyone know where I can purchase this piece at an affordable price? By the way, I decided to repair the pannels with fiberglass in the back and using flexible putty on the cracks shown in the front. I first used ABS plastic chips but it took too long to dry for me and it did not like prolonged sanding. After wasting my time with the ABS chips I found that the flexible putty worked best and allowed the touch up intervals to be shorter.

Byron, Can you post some pictures as soon as you have them installed? I am interested in both but I would like to see what they look like installed on yours.

I just recently changed all the plugs in my O360-A1D and did lots of research. I found that Tempest plugs offered me the best bang for the buck. I chose massives over finewires because they were more economic and I don't have a problem with plug fouling. Leaning on the ground will help you avoid fouled plugs; however, if you still have fouling problems I would recommend buying finewires. They run hotter than massives, which is why it helps prevent plug fouling. If your cylinders tend to run on the upper range, then I would opt to go for the massives in order to keep the temperatures down. Below is a link for the massives for the O360-A1D: (Only 23 bucks each. Finewires will be around 69 each but still way more economical than other brands) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ep/sparkplugs_0ctempest_1massive/temptestplugs1.php

There was a thread posted about two months ago of someone who designed a set of rocker switches to be created using a 3D printer. The company who actually does the printing charges only a few bucks per switch. Link posted below: http://mooneyspace.com/topic/11420-rocker-switch-cover-replacements-3d-print-your-own/?hl=print

Scott, WOW!!! Reading that MSDS was an eye opener. Thanks for the info and yet another lesson. I could have hurt myself due to my ignorance. I will follow the MSDS recommendations while handeling this material. http://physics.utsa.edu/memslab/MSDS/Acetone.pdf

That's awesome Bob. Thanks for the lesson. I was worried about not wearing enough protections while working with it because of the strong smell. I tried using it to clean around my inboard fuel senders in order to see if they are still leaking. Acetone did a pretty good job at cleaning but it did not take out the very heavy stains though. Maybe that has to do with the fact that I did not scrub it long enough before my hands froze.

Thanks for the info Chris. While searching for a pair of butyl gloves on the internet I found out that the gloves I use in the Army for NBC are of the butyl type

My flight to Louisiana has been delayed due to WX, so I decided to keep working on the panels so there is less to do when I get back. I fiberglassed the entire back of super brittle parts and only strips on the ones that are not so brittle. Can someone give me tips on how to apply ABS plastic slurry? I know that I have to submerge the chips on acetone or MEK to create the slurry, but are there any techniques to apply it on the front of the panel? Someone posted JB weld as another alternative but I had already purchased the chips so I might as well use them. Another issue I am having on this project is that every time I use acetone to either clean tools or dilute resin, it wants to eat through my hands even if I wear very thick gloves. Does anyone know what type of glove material needs to be used to protect my hands? I even tried thick concrete ruber mixing gloves and my hands feel like they begin to freeze.

Dcflyn, Keep those pictures coming Maybe they will give me some ideas that I have not thought about yet. You are lucky that the overhead air deflectors look intact. Mine have at least one piece broken in all but one deflector. I thought about taking it off and replicating it but looking at the parts manual it would be a PIA. You have to remove the entire air box in order to reach the screews from inside the box. I am still considering cutting the whole thing out and placing eyeball vents; however, this will be a project for another year because I cannot wait to finish the panels and get back to flying my baby

Well guys, I am on my way to Louisiana tomorrow for an FTX in the woods for almost a month. I can see good progress in the interior remodeling and feeling excided about the results so far. I will continue to work on the fiberglass work when I get back but here is a taste of some of the upholstery I was able to finish before leaving: (After picture shows some bubbles but I fixed them after the picture was taken) (I do not have before pictures of this panel because it did not exist. At least not in one piece.) I am also planning to hide the hat rack compartment with a panel upholstered with the same gray leather. I will also have a large modern mooney logo embroidered on this panel. I also found this vinyl product that has a carbon fiber design with a siticky back. The carbon fiber comes in different colors but I have not found a place I would like to use this yet. maybe I will use the white carbon fiber on the instrument panel but I have not made up my mind yet. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130807477923?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You could also wait until the government makes a decision two years from now and get a garmin G3X glass cockpit with autopilot for under 8K http://www8.garmin.com/aviation/brochures/g3x_brochure.pdf

To keep you guys in the loop with some more email traffic between Bruce (spatial interiors) and I, see the attached conversation below (for those interested on more information on these panels): Isaac, I was pressured for time when leaving Texas earlier this week and did not get really good photos. I have reviewed my files and attached additional pictures that may be of interest. These are all from a C model cabin. Since the time of these photos I have enhanced the installation process, making the panels even more secure and precisely fitted. The one thing I cannot show you is the plastic repair process. To make sure there is no confusion, the new side panels cover the space below the windows to include the lower section of the baggage compartment. The window trim, headliner, upper baggage compartment, top portion of the cabin door and baggage door cover are all to be reconditioned. Depending on the headliner installed in your Mooney, some of the original pieces can be replaced with new flat plastic panels. I am pleased to report that I have had great success repairing original plastics with a two-part epoxy and filler. The back side secured fabric provides a strong flexible repair and the finish epoxy enables sanding to a perfectly smooth surface. Finishing with a sequence of color matched automotive aerosols results in a really nice look. Unless the original plastics are missing or very brittle I am confident they can be repaired. In the end, they will fit without need for the frustration of trimming. Please feel free to reply with questions or thoughts. I will be staying in touch. Thanks for your time. Regards, Bruce Isaac, thought you might like to see the results of repairing a pretty deteriorated panel. This was for an example as this part was not reinstalled. Expect to hear from me again as new parts are in transit. Bruce Bruce, WOW! What exactly did you use to bond the two broken pieces together? I am repairing my original panels until I can save up for the spatial interiors; however, I have only worked on panel so far. I used a 9oz fiberglass cloth to reinforce the back and I was thinking about filling the cracks in the front with some ABS plastic slurry. The only thing that concerns me is gaining significant weight if I have to do this to all the panels but I don't think that will be the case because most of them look in decent shape. For those panels I think I might be able to use the slurry on the cracks. I have another question about the spatial interiors though. How much extra room is gained with these panels? Thanks for the updates Bruce. Isaac, After searching long enough one finally comes up with a solution. The pieces are put together the same way a large hole is covered. A 5 minute epoxy and fabric works well without adding weight. Even a corner can be repaired. Once this material sets up, which does not take long, a 2 part putty applied with a bit of moisture does the trick. This area can be sanded and finished. The finish coat I am using is an automotive product of a matching color. This includes use of a pore opening aerosol followed by multiple thin coats of a color coordinated aerosol oil base finish. The result is a satin flexible finish applied without use of any special equipment. I do not know about a slurry product. I do know that my last repair included removal of a significant amount of fiberglass to be repaired by a vey thin coat of the materials reviewed above. The amount of extra room created depends on the model. The earliest models have relatively straight side panels that use most of the space. The new recessed arm areas actually directly attach to the side skin. There is absolutely no more physical room available. Placing the armrest in a spot where it does not interfere makes a difference. The door panel does create more space as again it touches directly against the metal skin. The recessed area is designed to create room for the latching hardware. For those who may want to reupholster seats, additional legroom can be created by design of the seat back. In addition, storage pockets are designed to fit into multiple spots without compromising room. This is to include at least one pocket on the spar front to accommodate an Ipad. If I was to guess, I would expect a typical increase of about two inches shoulder and elbow room along with about four inches rear seat legroom is possible. I am expecting to receive a prototype storage pocket in the next couple days. I will keep forwarding you information as I can.

carusoam, I don't have a machine shop or experience; however, my MX does but he has never produced a part and was not much help when I asked about the process. You guys have been awesome at answering all my questions and giving me a lot to think about. Thanks.

Once again, thank you all for the education. The only other question I have would be, how would I collect this data for submition to the FAA? Will I have to obtain approval to create and install the part so that I may test it in order to collect the data?