isaacpr7

Alan let me know when you get Acuflite and an acutrack.

4A7 south of Atlanta (McDonough) is my choice but that's only because I like to save a buck Airport is self service and no fees unless is NASCAR race night.

Selling Garmin 295 GPS for $250 (plus shipping). Includes: Operator Manual Power cable Data cable to update maps Two antennas (one short, one suction with extension) Yoke mount

I am in search of a fellow mooniac who lives in the Clarksville, TN area and would like to split the cost of flying to OSH and back.

Does anyone have any details on why the engine might have quit on takeoff? I saw this on my FB page on a posting by "Mooney Flyer". http://wishtv.com/2014/07/11/crews-respond-to-report-of-aircraft-accident-in-greenwood/ My prayers go to the pilot's family.

It was a long journey Chris. It took months to get it all done (interiors and ignition) but she's ready to hit the skies. Now I need to find someone to fly with in case my landings got rusty

My fellow Mooniacs, My baby is finally all fired up!!! We rechecked that the timing and it was on the compression stroke when verified with the buzzer. After reading through the postings and talking to another mx something clicked in my head. What if the mags somehow ended up being timed on the exhaust stroke by mistake? So I placed the engine on the compression stroke at 25BTDC and looked for the mark on the mag whitness hole and nothing. After removing the mag we found out that the mag was 180 degrees out of phase so we fixed the issue and reinstalled it. The engine fired right up and sounds better than ever!!! Thank you guys for all the help

Below is a copy of an email sent to me by the mag shop, further explaining the SOS operation: Isaac, Sorry for the delay ion this response. We have family in town and I was away from my phone. The SOS vibrator is not a timed event. It puts out a continuous "shower of sparks" that is controlled by the opening and closing of the retard breaker or contact set. An easy way to check this retard timing is to position the engine at #1 cylinder TDC, back up the prop to 30 degrees BTC (assuming 25 degrees is normal timing for that engine), and remove the starter wire from the starter motor. Then, remove one ignition lead from the #1 cylinder coming from the left magneto and hold it in close proximity to a ground. Have someone place the mag switch in the start position with the master on. This will activate the SOS while grounding the left and right main breakers. As you advance the prop to TDC, you should get a spark from the removed plug wire at the correct position relative to TDC. Your retard magneto is set to open 25 degrees after the main set of contacts opens. This places that retard ignition approximately at TDC. A few degrees one way or the other will not be a problem. If the engine is backfiring through the exhaust, it usually means too much fuel is being introduced during start sequence. If the retard contacts were timed to open too early, the engine would kick back during the start. If they are timed to late (meaning past TDC), the engine would still start and the back firing would be rare. Check this out and let me know what you find. Regards, Paul

Hector, What happened with yours is that the left mag was grounded due to the loose P-lead. The left mag as a spring with a tab that is pushed away from the mag case when the p-lead is installed. If the p-lead becomes loose, then the tab contacts the case and grounds the mag. This is why the left mag has a specified torque for the nuts and the right mag is only finger tight. The tab is a safety feature built in to our type of mag so that you cannot crank the engine with the p-leads removed; however, it still does not help if the p-lead wire is cut because the tip is still pressing the tab. My newest issue is that I now get spark but not without detonation. Another mooniac suggested that the engine might be timed on the exhaust stroke and that makes more sense to me. I will have my mx check that out for me this week.

That's because the SOS is what lights up the plugs through the left mag contact brakers. When you release the ignition switch and goes back to both, then both mags are actively providing the spark for the plugs at 25deg BTDC.

Latest Update: I had my mx install the new SOS Vibrator today and we finally have spark; however, all we get is a loud bang. My mx thinks that it might be a timing issue but I think there might be a possibility that it can also be something else. My other mx and I tripple checked timing last time we were troubleshooting. The only thing I can think of is the timing on the vibrator itself because ot the way it is supposed to work. As you place the ignition switch to start, both mags are supposed to be grounded so that the SOS cranks at TDC. When you release the switch both mags come to life and fire at 25deg BTDC. I am also doubting the possibility of SOS timing because it is brand new and it should have been timed at the factory. What do you guys think?

Alhall, That was the first thing that the mag shop suggested so I checked the solder on the p-lead and added more. I made sure it had the minimum specified on the manual. After I did that, I could feel the p-lead pushing on the spring like it is supposed to but had no luck on firing the engine up. After I described the results of all the tests performed on the vibrator to te mag shop, they are convinced that the problem is in the shower of sparks. I ordered a new one to replace the super old raggity one currently installed. Hopefully this will cure the bug.

Latest update: I had another MX take a look at the issue and we got the mag shop on the phone. We were adviced to take a look at the vibrator and there was 12VDC going into the vibrator on the IN terminal. When checking the BO terminal on the vibrator, we would get a steady 27VAC and the reading with the switch on both, but would go to 0 when the ignition switch was placed to start. I tried to call the mag shop to ask if that was the way it was supposed to work but they were closed for the day; however, we did check for amperage and it was reading low. It is supposed to read 2.5 but we are only getting 1.4

Thanks for the info on adjusting the SOS; however, the p-leads on the left mag are not interchangeable. The nuts that are screwed into the mag are of different sizes so that you can't mixed them up during installation.

I checked all three (L, R, and LR) and they check out okay. With L selected on the switch, I get an open reading on the left p-lead and the right p-lead goes to ground. The opposite is true when I select R on the switch. On the both position, both p-leads remain open. I will check if the mags are installed on the right stroke as you suggested; however, I'm pretty sure they are correct because they had a mark on the case. I like your suggestion about the plugs. I will talk to my MX so that he can assist me on doing this. Thank you.

The vibrator adjustment suggestion was given to me by the mag shop. It was something about adjusting the rate at which the vibrator pulsates. I have not rewired anything on the switch and all p-lead tests check out okay. Also, when I disconnect the starter so that I can turn the key to start, I can hear the vibrator buzzing.

The starter turns tge prop but the engine will not fire up. The battery has full charge and I keep it on a trickle charger. I pump the throttle to prime it and it doesn't fire up the engine. As far as the braker/switched, those are working fine now. They are connected in parallel so my apologies for the mix up. The only thing that I need to check is the timing of the vibrator. Hopefully that's where it needs to be adjusted. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

One problem gone, one more to go. I cracked open the service manual an looked at all the electrical diagrams so that I could trace all the wires and found the problem. The reason my master switch stopped working was due to a break in the wire behind the switch. As I was tracing voltage from the battery all the way through the circuits, I noticed that the switch/brakers on the left side were connected in series via jumpers. The jumper between the master switch and the landing light was broken and caused the circuit to be open. I installed a new terminal on the jumper and viola, the master switch is once again alive. Now the only issue I have to solve is the fact that I cannot get the aircraft to crank. I had the mags installed and timed to the engine when they got back from the mag shop, checked all p-leads and everything is working as advertised except that the engine will not start. My also checked for fuel all the way to the carb and it is getting fuel. The spark plugs and wires are also working. I called the mag shop to see if they could suggest something and they said to check the timing on the starting vibrator. I will have another MX check this out on Friday. Hopefully I can get my baby back in the air soon.

Well here's the bill: Crossfire Magneto Service, LLC 5293 Gulfstream Ct. Loveland, CO 80538 970-672-6505 www.crossfiremagneto.com May 23, 2014 WO# Ruiz-05-23-14-01 500-hr inspection for 2ea Bendix S200 series magnetos as follows: S4LSC-200, P/N 10-600614-1, S/N: D169813E Completed 500-hr inspection in accordance with Continental Ignition Systems Manual, P/N X42002-3, dated August 2011. Magneto disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with new TCM contacts, condenser, seal, slinger, brush, and all 100% replacement parts. Bench tested magneto in accordance with Chapter 3.2 of manual and found output to meet or exceed all published minimums. This magneto is in compliance with all applicable ADs and Service Bulletins and is approved for return to service as an uninstalled part. NOTE! This magneto model is labeled as an S4LSC-200, 10-600614-1, but is configured as an S4LN-200, 10-163005-2, an earlier version of the same mag. Both are eligible for installation with no special approvals. S4LN-204, P/N: 10-163045-3, S/N: 8050254 Completed 500-hr inspection in accordance with Continental Ignition Systems Manual, P/N X42002-3, dated August 2011. Magneto disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with new TCM contacts, condenser, seal, slinger, brush, distributor block, and all 100% replacement parts. Bench tested magneto in accordance with Chapter 3.2 of manual and found output to meet or exceed all published minimums. This magneto is in compliance with all applicable ADs and Service Bulletins and is approved for return to service as an uninstalled part. LABOR: (flat rate) $ 350.00 PARTS: 2ea 10-382585 contact $ 110.08 1ea 10-382584 contact $ 63.21 2ea 10-400572 capacitor $ 252.61 2ea 10-51678 slinger $ 20.55 2ea 10-400554 seal $ 40.69 2ea 10-160844 brush $ 14.66 2ea MS16624-2037 snapring $ 1.78 1ea 10-357424 distributor block $ 126.31 1ea 10-163374 felt strip $ 1.12 2ea 10-50752 washer $ 2.40 2ea 10-391309 nylon washer $ 8.48 2ea 10-90788-5 key $ 3.51 SUB-TOTAL: $ 995.40 FBO DISCOUNT: < $ 99.54 > TOTAL DUE: $ 895.86 THANK YOU! WE APPRECIATE YOUR BUSINESS!

Well my mags are healthy now and on their way back home. I am super happy with the service provided by Crossfire Magneto service. They reported the mags putting out 80K volts at 60RPM. Both mags where fixed and shipped back for $896.

Status Update: I received a final report from Paul at Crossfire Mag Service and he found several issues with my mags which expains my ignition problems. I have to confess that I was super scared about the cost for the repair so I asked him to give me a ball park figure and he estimated no more than a couple of hundred dollars per mag. I think I will use and recommend this shop from now on Below is a copy of the last email they sent me: Isaac, Magneto report below. I'll be working through the weekend and will have these ready to ship back to Saturday or Monday. Regards, Paul Brevard Left mag (retard mag) S/N: D169813E Failed bench test Contacts burned Condenser failed spec test Bearings dry, minimal grease Oil in housing Right mag S/N: 8050254 Contact point clearance .003, E-gap in excess of 35 degrees Key wedged in slot at DE Coil core rusted at laminations Black block arcing internally Isaac, I'll be replacing points and condenser along with small 100% replacement items. I'll try to find a used brown distributor block to replace the black block installed in the right mag in order to keep the cost down as much as possible.

Chris, You have no idea how stressfull it has been and the experience I have had with some of the local mechanics. I am determined to finish my five years left in the military and spend another two years at A&P school so that I don't have to keep going through this the rest of my airplane ownership life. Hopefully I will get tha mags back in a few days and once I install and time them they will fire right up with no issues. As for the electrical issue, sometimes I feel like ripping all the cables out and starting from scratch! LOL! I do have to say; however, she is looking beautiful inside. After all of the interior work she is looking like a new bird. In a few years I will get the exterior looking the same but for now I just want to enjoy her before I deploy again. I will keep you guys posted Thank for all the support and sharing your knowledge guys

Update: Looking through the logbooks I could not find an entry for the last 500hr inspection so I decided to remove the mags and send them to a mag shop recommended by a good friend of mine. The name of the company is "Crossfire Magneto Service" in Colorado. I soke to them and they seem like the real deal. They recommended that I perform the 500hr instead of an overhaul. If they find the cost of the parts needing replacement is racking up, then they will let me know and advice me to turn it into an overhaul instead. http://crossfiremagneto.com/Crossfire_Magneto_Service/Welcome.html The only headache I will have to deal with to get my "girl" back in the air will be the electrical problem on the avionics master. Another A&P recommended that I have an avionics guy take a look at it and recertify the IFR while I'm at it. If the price is right I think this would be my best option.

I do have the shower of sparks connected to the left magneto but I ruled that out since I can successfully get the engine to crank. All the SOS does is send fast pulses of electricity while cranking the engine and disengages when you release the switch. It also grounds the right magneto and left magneto P leads so that the only power supplied to the left mag is through the retard P lead at TDC in order to avoid kick back. Reference: http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Shower%20of%20Sparks/Shower%20of%20Sparks.htm

This is straight from the service manual: