isaacpr7
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Everything posted by isaacpr7
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Jared, I tried what you suggested and you were right. The gauge on my instrument panel was way off. I pumped the hand pump to 5" and the gauge on the instrument panel read 6.6". The green arc on my gauge is between 4.5" and 5".
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Thank you for the info Bob. I will take a look at the webinar. I am becoming more and more fascinated by the amount of knowledge found on this site through you mooniacs
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Another question for you guys. What would be the consequenses of running my engine if in fact the mag was bad? Is this going to hurt anything other than have to put up with a rough engine? I just want to understand how the systems work in a deeper sense.
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Thanks Jared. This sounds like something I could easily do to troubleshoot the system. I will let you guys know the result when I complete the test.
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James, I am not sure about the type of gauge I have but you can see what it looks like from the picture attached.
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Jared, That was my first though and I compared it mainly to the heading indicator and it was rock solid. How did you end up resolving the issue?
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Bob, no retracting step on my 68C.
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- vacuum gauge
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Chis, The thing that does not add up is that the turn coordinator does not drift during the flight and I do not get a low or high vacuum light. This tells me that the vacuum should be okay; however, the needle jumps up and down rapidly on the low side.
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Since my last MX had me remove the entire PC system I have noticed the vacuum gauge reading on the low side (between the bottom of the gauge and the bottom of the green arc). I do not know if this is due to removing the PC but that is when I first noticed it. I do not get any HI or LO light indications and my vacuum instruments work well as I do not have to constantly set my heading indicator to the mag compass. Does anyone have an idea of what might be the problem? The only thing I could think of is a faulty gauge since everything else seems to be working fine.
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Update: I went flying yesterday for a few hours and the indicator started to work again on its own. Maybe the gremlins living in the back of the instrument panel are on vacation for the holidays. I will still take the connectors off and spray them with contact cleaner as suggested, just to make sure it stays operational. Thank you guys for all the suggestions and merry Christmas
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Here's a thought about paint jobs
isaacpr7 replied to cliffy's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
What about ailerons for flaps? Do they have to be rigged checked when removed but not replaced as well? -
I don't think it's the plugs because I just replaced them all but I will check for the cold cylinder as you suggested. I will check with spruce to see how much would a new harness set me back. I saw something there that was priced at 67 cents a foot but I am not sure I was looking at the right thing.
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I will take a look at that too. Thanks
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That is exactly what I am thinking about doing myself. Just waiiting patiently to see if anyone wants to get rid of one for cheap when they upgrade.
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Sorry about that. Kinda new to all this I was confused because I went through my log books and someone wrote Bendix with model number on engine equipment list sheet and I saw another reference at another sheet refering to them as slicks. I will head to the hangar tomorrow and read it straight from the data plate.
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This looks like a cathedral in Puerto Rico.... -
Hank, The POH on my 68C has the numbers at 125. I know I am at the limit and it is okay but my concern is that the egine runs rough on it and I cannot get full power at take off (RPM does not go higher than 2500 to 2600). As soon as my MX gets back from from vacation I will try to figure this out with him and let you guys know. As usual, I am thankful for everyone's help.
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PM sent.
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I still have the original engine cluster so I have no way of monitoring each individual cylinder.
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They are Bendix Slick Mags with around 600hrs on them.
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Mission success!!! I could not crank the aircraft to save my life. After rigging the custom heater and letting it run over night, as soon as hinted turning the key to the start position the aircraft started without hesitation
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During runup I noticed the mag drop to be at 200RPM on the left side. After leaning the engine at higher RPM and allowing it to run for about a minute, the drop remains between 100-125RPM. Most people I spoke to suggested that I might have had fouled plugs so I replaced them all with Tempest UREM38E (massives). After running up with new plugs, the RPM drop was normal but the engine ran rough on the same side (left). I also noticed that when full throttle is applied the RPM does not go any higher than 2500-2600. Has anyone experienced this before that might be able to shed some light as to what might be going on?
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Not anymore francis. Sorry. I was convinced to put it back into operation by some mooniacs
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Did you have to replace the entire fuel pump or just the gasket? If you replaced the pump, how much did it set you back?
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It is a Comfort Zone Ceramic Heater from Walmart. I is priced at 18 dollars (at leat here). The duct is a standard aluminum 4" duct (8 dollars) from Home Depot. The plate with 4" hole used to attach the hose to the heater is also found at Home Depot in the same section for about 3 bucks.
