Ragsf15e

I like the first one, no matter what the other guys say. The other one will be too hot although it looks good in the hangar. Honestly, the subdued white and grey is nice.

Between my mechanic and I, we got the starter adapter out in about an hour. I removed the intercooler, he dealt with the alternator. Not too bad, but it made me afraid to have to work on the left mag or the lower alternator! Sent it to Gand N. Should be there Tuesday. Then I changed the oil to make sure we get out any metal that might have got into the engine. I proceeded to unleash a tidal wave of oil on my nosegear and my IAs pretty shop floor getting the filter off. Seems like a bad place for it! Then we cleaned out the breather system, rerouted the oil separator return line, and removed, checked, cleaned both check valves. Oh, and we installed my new riveted V band clamp! It’s gonna be a whole new airplane! I have new respect for mechanics though, that wasn’t fun.

I think there’s an avionics shop there that a lot of people use as well. That’s a fun little town to go to as well, we used to go there a lot just to go out have dinner and beers.

Well unfortunately I meant we will take off my starter adapter and send it for repair… it broke. We did make it back and forth (barely) to Hillsboro last weekend and the airplane is definitely fast!

My old one had a weld on it.

Yeah, that part number comes up for the LB engine and anything prior to, but not for the MB or SB. It’s pretty complicated. I’ve talked to continental now and to a couple of overhaul repair stations. The exact part number depends on how many accessory drives you have for it and if you have two alternators. Im going to send mine to G and N as @LANCECASPER recommended. They actually answered the phone and called me back with some information. They also said they could potentially repair it since it wasn’t very long since OH. Im starting to think that the starter we replaced is the cause of this whole thing. My old starter was very hard to turn by hand and had a grinding noise inside it. Even though it still spun under power, they are supposed to spin freely by hand. If they don’t, the adapter will remain engaged and tear itself up. Fingers crossed all the parts are still attached to the starter adapter and nothing is cycling through the engine. I guess we’ll know more when we take it off tomorrow.

Thanks! Same part # as mine except mine is A12. I might call continental today and see if they can help with

well here's another interesting saga... what exactly is the part number of the SA on a 252? From the overhaul documentation 2 years ago, it says part #641348-a12. If I look it up on Continental's IPC, it shows 653074A47 so maybe they've been superceded? Well my IA called Niagra and they said they can't get parts for the original version anymore and don't have exchanges? Heck mine was OH just 2 years ago, now no parts? To make it more confusing, Hartzell and Skytec have PMA SAs with their own part numbers (55304 for Hartzell). I just want someone to repair mine. I'm waiting on a call back from G & N. @kortopates @Z W @shawnd Any ideas on the original part number and have you heard about no parts to repair?

Thanks, Ive got a call in to them.

After testing the electrical system and the new starter motor, I believe you are correct.

Did this today using the skytec troubleshooting guide posted earlier. The electrical system passed. The battery has ocv ~25.5. While cranking the starter, battery terminal voltage drops to 22.5v. Voltage at the starter was ~20. All of that meets the skytec guidelines. We’re pulling the starter adapter later this week.

I was interested in this, and it deserves a bit of investigation… The previous owners installer did a very nice wiring diagram, so I can see that my gtn 750xi is in radio 2 on the gma 35. My gnc255 is wired into radio 1 like yours. So far, so good. However, when I simulated the gtn “freezing” by pulling the circuit breakers, nothing happened (I was stuck on the inop gtn comm radio) and I had no comm and no way to select “comm 2” (wired as comm 1). Now I’m thinking (but haven’t tested), that if the gtn freezes, you might need to pull the gma35 cb in order to get it to “fail” back to comm 1 (which is actually your other radio). Have you tried this on your setup?

I filed a report with the faa and they actually responded to it?! Weird. Anyway, maybe the issue is fixed? It must have been nationwide because I saw it in the northwest and i saw reports on BT of it in Texas and along the east coast.

Yeah, that seems to indicate fixed timing at your base timing anytime you have manifold pressure at 25 or greater, so roughly up to 5000’ for wide open throttle. It’s weird that you could see higher temps lower than that because it shouldn’t be advancing, well I guess unless you pulled throttle back enough? Is that a new one they published?

I think he means the whole new electric speed brake install…

That’s interesting as it “shouldn’t” be doing any advance down that low. The advance doesn’t kick in until you’re below some power level which translates to being above an altitude in an na airplane. It should increase timing advance as you climb, so the heating issue should only appear as you get higher. Of course they don’t publish the timing map anymore, so it’s all a guess based on what they published before it was certified.

Yes, I was planning on using a start cart as a test as well. I looked it up and the battery (Concorde) is 3 years old. Passed cap check last month. I will check out the electrical thoroughly before we attack the SA with tools.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I think he’ll go for that.

Im definitely interested in helping my mechanic troubleshoot this to make sure we actually “fix” the right part this time… I will check the battery ground, but how would I check that the battery and starter solenoid are delivering full power to the starter with minimal resistance? Check resistance at each step like in the skytech troubleshooting guide?

Dang, thanks! I was looking at map symbology, but it’s under a different part! That pilot’s guide is “extensive” to say the least!

Where in the heck do I find this symbol in the pilots guide? I can’t seem to find it or figure out what this white diamond is? (This is a screenshot from Garmin, not me).

The prop just twitches as I let off the key. The starter itself is brand new (OH) out of the box. Yes, the prop doesn’t move at all while the starter buzzes away, then barely twitches as I let off the key. Weird. To add to the story, I tried it about 3 times and was pretty quick between the last two (right after the prop twitches) and it caught, turned over and started (it starts very easily). I really don’t know what’s going on?

I was apparently hasty in saying it was solved or I jinxed myself. Here’s what happened trying our next trip. Apparently @kortopates trick to check the SA isn’t infallible (no blame intended). Our starter didn’t seem right and the SA seemed ok. This video is on the new starter though… https://photos.app.goo.gl/5etj5CVeoEaSCJwQ9 We will check the battery before pulling it.

Curious, what altitude did you notice the warmer CHTs? They used to publish an advance map showing fixed timing until about 5000’, but it’s not published anymore.

I’ve heard (but don’t have firsthand experience) that the secondary location for oil temp reads significantly different from the primary. You indicate that your primary and new probe read about the same? I thought it read that the secondary one which is in front of the engine (i think) Reads high but Im not positive. Anyway, my thought is - are we sure the original probe is working correctly or is that what you replaced when you said “replaced factory temp sensor”?