Yetti

What model? Is this fuel injected or Carburetor? "The AP is going to pull the top panel off the tank and clean out the entire tank. He's very confident that this will resolve any fuel pick up problems. " Check the filter at the Electric Fuel pump and the finger screen on Fuel Servo. This will tell you more than pulling tank panels.

yep. I guess my transition to the 550 is complete.

"The AP is pretty convinced that there is some crap in the tanks that just worked its way down to the servo and blocked the line for that brief instance while we were climbing out." There are three filters that would have to pass through. Filter in the tank. Filter at the Electric fuel pump. Finger Screen at the Fuel Servo. Which is why the Fuel Servo screen needs to be checked. There are lots of little passages in the fuel servo that are not going to clear themselves. You have a better chance at a big slug of water killing the engine. Problem is the water is gone now. The mechanical fuel pump will still pump fuel and not pass the leak down test. Do the leak down test. Yep you are right Electric Fuel pump on. The IO 550 needs lots of fuel to start but too much fuel for low boost pump to remain on. The Lycoming floods easy, but needs fuel to keep running.

Funny enough you should be able to buy a blue knob from Spruce Your vent does not look the same as my 75 did. might not be a stock vent. Cut out some alum or wood or plexiglass and paint to match. Yours only has 2 knobs there. my built in Dec 1974 1975 model also had the parking brake long with the other 2 vent controls.

You took off with the electric fuel pump on. (This would be a nope in most Mooney's) You turned the electric fuel pump off. The engine quits. Do a leak down test on the manual fuel pump. On the ground. Turn electric pump on. Open Mixture. count to 6 close mixture. turn electric fuel pump off. Watch Fuel pressure gauge. Should stay up at pressure for at least a minute or longer. Clean the finger screen on the fuel servo. Next do a baby jar test. Next find out when your fuel servo was OH last. Inspect the Orings on fuel caps. Replace with flurosilicone and clean and relube everything.

Well in the last thing worked on theory along with start with the simple stuff theory. I would make sure the Prop governor control cable can operate freely and goes from stop to stop. Also check the stop adjusting screw at the governor. In the video the prop control stays 3/16" out from the from full in. That does not seem right.

I had to do the contact cleaner twice on the 50 year old F model. Then it was the relay. The cool thing about the relay was there were two sides to it. So I just switched wires to the other side.

The belly panel. It's all one. Oh and lube trim U joints and such. It probably does not need to be greased that often but every other time turns into never.

For the limit switches go to Wally world and get the red can of "Contact Cleaner" sometimes called "Electronics Cleaner" Spray vigorously into the switch while exorcising them. While you are there clean off the jack screw and apply new grease and run it in and out a couple of times. Probably has not been done since the plane left the factory. Same should work on your Stall Indicator on the wing. May need the little red tube to get inside the box and hopefully direct at the limit switch.

I would think Rick has the answer. The plane on the ground is not level. Usually the leveling point is above the comm door in the rear. See your S&M manual for leveling instructions.

yep stainless and nut plates don't play so well together. Toss the screw.

My theory on full flaps for short and mid body. And I landed half flaps most of the time unless I was high on the approach and needed them. If you look at full flaps on the ground at the wing root there is only about 5 inches between the flap and the ground. So full flaps is creating a pocket of air by pushing it down onto the ground. more air down means less braking response. The Long body really needs full flaps to slow down, so I would say the extra weight overcomes the cushion of air. The Long body really does land nicely once speed control is learned.

this is a very slight nuance "getting up to flying speed" last I check, you are already at flying speed on the approach. I don't go much above level while adding some power. It should not take much. Gear up. keep adding power, trim, get wing to flying then climb out. This is the same as take off where take off, go level get gear up, build speed, get wing flying, then climb out and get flaps.

welder, mild steel flat bar, plasma cutter. Or just tack the old one.

You can buy new brushes for the old alternator. Aircraft Spruce has them. Or you can take your Fan boat alternator to the alternator shop and have them OH it.

critical situation will be responded to with muscle memory/flow. So do what you do on normal take off. For me just switch to the S model was weird because the flaps and gear are in different places. Totally messed with muscle memory and flow.

This is what I was recently taught for the S model. But being a F driver for 10 years I have reverted back to manual trim wheel.

I read an accident report of the Labcore plane transporting samples stored on dry ice.

As stated by others there is no O-ring on the bleeder. And it is not usually the leak. You can put a wrench on it and check to see if it is slightly above snug. While you are down there check to see if your brake pads need replacing. As the piston gets to the end of travel as the brake wear they get where the piston will leak around the o-ring in the caliper. This is most likely the cause of the leak. Refill your brake reservoir. The parts and service manual are in the download section

I like to say. flying is easy. Landing is hard. Landing is where you sometimes have to pull every pilot trick out of the bag of tricks. Other times it just clicks, but no one is around to see that one.

One of the things that really helps to prevent PIO is more trim. Assuming you have been trimming all the way around the pattern. I usually grab 2 handfuls of the trim wheel right before the threshold. The nose will get very light and require some down input. This is good because if you bounce it it will keep the nose up, more back pressure and either fly it for another landing or power and get out of there.

the forgotten art of flaring

What is the AP/IA comfortable signing off on is the best answer. We used to run high amperage solenoids to switch the power to high amperage radios. The metal cans would fail at a higher rate than the black plastic ones.

started as cutler hammer bought by Eaton. At one point I found it at McMaster Carr for $200.00

this would be the more accurate one https://peerlesselectronics.com/6041h105-relay?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20663341848&gclid=CjwKCAjwlaTGBhANEiwAoRgXBbhuWKo-Lr1UUFUmSylE4m2OjCHjmOhe2gzIn47Nnb8yoD3thidkdxoCuMEQAvD_BwE sky geek is a little less dollars. https://skygeek.com/eaton-aerospace-6041h105-relay-12v-1-15-electromagnetic.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=13706325759&gclid=CjwKCAjwlaTGBhANEiwAoRgXBRz5hEL80QIv2peWx0foyLVmYs_eV-jhmk7bUAO7C4QKbzg-2ih1shoCJYwQAvD_BwE