Yetti

2. and 3. can be combined to "reduce throttle to 12 Inches." This will keep the plane from speeding up Then. put gear down at threshold on downwind followed by flaps. This keeps everything the same as normal coming back to the airport flying. Training and flying should develop flows and muscle memory.

In the newer planes it's two different relays. you might have some corrosion on the relay contacts. My relay had two sides to them So I just switched the wires to the other side.

Not really. Top of the wing if it is a screw (usually is) then pull the screw put some permatex #3 on it and replace the screw. Start a thread with pictures and advice will be given.

Think or know? Open up the panel, Remove the wire and put an ohm meter on it. I had one out and cleaned it up, it's not that hard. While it's out you can get new seals for it here. https://www.brownaircraft.com/aircraft-seals-s/185.htm

I have a S model with a really cool pristine 1990s Bendix King Avionics suite. Complete with King 89B 8 GPS Navigator and STEC 30 Auto Pilot. The Auto Pilot use left and right signals off the Heading bug on the DG. The same as your KAP. To switch out the DG, there must be a way to recreate the left and right signal. The newer autopilots are digital Garmin 500. They use a different control signals for heading and such. Some of it is CAN Bus and some of it is ARINC 429. Those are protocols. Protocols are just computer parameters that are agreed upon for computer boxes to talk to one another. I started going down the Big G upgrade path, which was going to be about $75K. So I stopped to see if there might be a better way. In the F model, I installed the Dynon HDX system. The big key for Mooneys is an approved autopilot. The Dynon A/P is approved for J and K model.

Set of xacto knives. cut around the gauge as much as possible. And a heat gun should help things along. just not too much heat. like hair dryer heat. In other news, I took a Sharpie and marked the Gallonage outside the ring in case I have to go Generic.

There were several people telling him to check all Three screens. I mentioned the boost pump screen which would have been the first one past the inlet screen. The whole fuel delivery system should have been gone over. Leakdown test performed, Fuel pressure monitored. Several things that the average pilot can and should do. Fuel servo rebuild could have been on condition after inspecting the screens. But the engine had already quit once due to fuel, so the whole fuel system should have been inspected and refreshed.

Yep I am trying to avoid the Big G. So spent the weekend designing what I think should go in the S model. With G offering rebates it seems the market is slowing and there may be some price adjustment. There also seems to be a fair amount of Mooneys for sale.

hear hear

You are going to want to look up and see what Actuator is in there. They are all pretty good, just have to maintain them.

I was pointed to Falken avionics yesterday. Appears to getting approval under NORSEE. https://www.falkenavionics.com/falken-ems/ I also heard there is some workings afoot to help avionics along the same path of MOSAIC. It will probably take years... or the crusty old timers at the FAA retiring.

Adding the AV-APA creates the path for the Bendix King and the STEC-30 A/Ps. The AV-30 manual has drawings showing the connection of the STEC-30. From the manual "The AV-APA analog output emulates the heading output of the Bendix King KI-525A HSI within the KCS-55A system" The STEC-30 needs the correct jumpers to make it accept the KING 525 inputs.

Used tailbeacon is going to be hard to find. The old ones seem to die, the one that was put on my plane in 2019 was dead and "the old version" at the beginning of this year. Your King Autopilot may just need some new Capacitors. Search this forum using google. Mooneyspace without the .com and what you are searching for. The list you posted had the Airworthy items noted. A Dynon System is about $23K plus install costs which seem to be 1:1 with hardware. Put a 406 ELT on your future list. The Narco 10 that you have is not so great in a couple of ways. The seat not locking in is usually dirt in the holes. Clean with a 1/4 drill bit using your hand not a drill. and a vacuum cleaner. If it is the gauges across the top of the panel I have a set out of a 1975 F model that worked as removed. First thing to check on the gauges is the ground wire to the panel.

Not sure what the plan is with Avionics, but if you upgrade to the TailBeacon X you can lose some of that Anchor weight and be compliant mode S. for the $3500.00 rebuild cost. https://uavionix.com/general-aviation/tailbeaconx/ The one thing that might be a bit of a hassle is inputing the Transponder codes. You have to dial instead of pushing a number. Then if you want to go digital HSI and DG for another $5K you can get two AV-30C

How do you like the AV-30 and what is it installed for?

Same blue light on steady. I chose the get a new one from the factory. The turn around was quick. If a company builds a fault routine into their product (blue light on steady) then I kind of think they should provide warranty work for the product.

I think most good landings are all in the set up. The F model I could fly 2/3 of the wing to the runway on Downwind. The S model is a full wing on downwind and fly a little bit further before turning base. It's a slippery plane she is.

There is no suggestion to treat landing as an art form. I like to say flying is easy landing is hard. There are times when a pilot needs to pull skills out of his pilot bag of tricks when near the ground. In training there was the time I was landing with an instructor with thunderstorms nearby. I was just past a flare and a random wind gust pushed us 150 feet off to the side of a narrow runway. I had applied power, leveled out before the instructor had time to reach the yoke. Probably used some mtn bike skills there. Have you tried the Jacobson method in 15 Gusting to 21 with a direct crosswind where you need to do a 1 wheel landing? What were the results?

I hazarding a guess that the top two left breakers are Buss breakers. The Left Aux is for the buss that has the Autopilot and Trim, The OVHD Aux is for the lights switches in the overhead switch panel. I did read the manual and could not find them described. Just inferring from where they are located on the panel and the size of wire that goes to the overhead switch panel. In the POH they are labeled "FLT PNL AUX" and "O/H AUX" Just to keep things interesting.

It does matter for those of us who fly seat of the pants. One thing I have noticed from the two Instructors who I fly with that they are a second faster than I am to notice the plane is a 1/4 of a ball in a skid. My dad used to get mad at my brother and I for being able to feel the sail boat and what it was doing. We grew up racing small sailboats like sunfish and lazers, he took up racing later in life. The two instructors are a second faster applying control inputs on the plane than I am. Feeling the skid or slip and applying control inputs is way faster than seeing the ball, processing the ball in your brain and then applying control inputs. What you are suggesting is that your experience is flying by the seat of the pants with smooth inputs on the controls. The jerky people are reacting to instruments or sight pictures or some other input that their brain has processed. They are reacting to correcting something that is behind them. The best way it was described to me was riding a motorcycle. A person is at a level of mastery when they downshift coming to a light out of automation vs. remembering to downshift. For me with the instructor I got a "you have learned the vernier throttle" during taxiing last week. He had flown with me a month before. Basically I had learned and did not need to process how many turns in and out to make the power to do what the plane needed to do and was able to pull the power out before having to jump on the brakes to control the overpower. And I was doing it without thinking about it.

Thank you for reminding me of my phobias

No the Mooney prop will fly off into space. These props are level with the head.

my problem will all these taxi thingies is that they put the propellers at eye level. If you have ever flown a drone and seen the props fly off....... Just a bad recipe.

Archer is an air taxi company..... So do you want to be flying with the autonomous flying thingies?

If you are 2 red and 2 white on the PAPIs that just mean you are somewhere between 3 degrees 10 minutes and 2 degrees 50 minutes. If at 3 red 1 white which is between 2 degree 50 minutes and 2 degrees 30 minutes. It will still be above 2 degrees as you are suggesting. Slow flight will only help with the last couple of seconds of a landing. Practicing the dynamic range in the 100Knts range will help all the way around the pattern and the approach.