cnoe

Only about 3/8" narrower but that small amount makes a fair difference. Screen size is the same; just narrower margins. Cnoe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I made it myself, but don't tell anyone. Contrary to what you might hear, having a sewing machine does NOT make you a sissy! This was my second version. The first was made from a lighter denim material and didn't stay in place that well. Plus it wasn't water-resistant. So... I made the new one out of a fairly heavy vinyl material. It's one piece covering the seat back and bench tucking in along all the sides. A nylon strap is sewn into the back piece and fastens with a fastex buckle in the baggage compartment to keep it in place. I also replaced the four trim screws in the rear footwell with canvas snaps to hold the front edge of the cover so it doesn't ride up. My error was making the bench portion 37" from back to front instead of flaring it out to 39" so it fits a little tight on the front (but still works okay). I told my wife that I'd get it right on the next attempt. I'll snap a couple pics of it for you when I'm at the airport this weekend if you want. Cnoe P.S. Please don't ask me to make one for you; I probably spent 6 hours working on the dang thing! But I will send you a drawing if you like.

I'm only 5'6" and can see all the round gauges over the top of my Air for the most part, but with the full-width iPad 2 it was hard to tilt it back enough. But I bet that if you used two short arms with a double-ball (RAM-B-230U) you could make it do anything you want. Like Paul mentioned, once in a while in direct sunlight it will get hot but can easily be remedied with a small cloth. I love the yoke setup and my wife devours Kindle books on the right side's mini.

I just made a dog seat-cover for my J so I know the measurements well. The rear portion of the seat cushion is ~37" wide and it widens to ~39" as you reach the front of the cushion. Cnoe

That setup works but can't be easily removed (without tools). I went the other way utilizing the aluminum yoke mount and their medium length arm extending "underneath" the yoke. I run this setup with an iPad Air on the left side and and iPad Mini on the right side for my wife. Works great and keeps the whole panel visible. I'll attach a couple of pics showing the Air mounted and the Mini side unmounted; sorry no close-ups of the mount. The Ram part numbers for the mini parts are: RAM-B-201U (arm) RAM-HOL-AP14U (holder) RAM-B-121BU (yoke clamp) RAM-B-202-U (base) They have a similar "kit" (part no. RAM-B-121-AP14U) but I believe it has the shorter arm which won't work well with the under-yoke mounting approach. And be sure to get the aluminum yoke clamp (should be the number above if I'm not mistaken). They do sell a plastic one too. Cnoe

I have an EI UBG-16 engine monitor that I just removed from my M20J last month at annual. I replaced it with a fancy new JPI-830. A couple months prior to the replacement one of the EGT probes went bad, otherwise it is in perfect working order. Two of the probes were replaced in November 2013 and the entire unit was refurbished at the factory in 2009 (log entries available). The entire description is available on my ebay listing (search for item number 201372682602). If anybody on Mooneyspace is interested in this unit I will end the listing early and give you 10% off the Buy It Now price of $750 ($675 w/ free Priority Mail shipping). If you win it in the auction I'll still give you 10% off the winning bid if you mention it. Note that there is a Reserve Price on the listing (hint: the Reserve Price is $500) so you'll need to bid that or more at the auction's end to win the item. Let me know if you have any questions. Cnoe P.S. The listing doesn't go "live" until Monday (tonight) at 9 pm CDT.

I was interested in the 37BYs 'til I discovered they weren't certified for the IO360-A3B6D. 800 hours on the Tempest massives is a good testament to their durability cliffy! I imagine if I show up for the annual with new plugs in hand my AI will razz me.[emoji4] Still I sure like the idea of FW plugs on bottom having picked out a few lead balls from the massives at oil change time. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good point larryb but if I understand the polarity issues correctly we should be able to swap odd and even numbered plugs to reduce electrode wear while still keeping them segregated top and bottom. I'm not keen on wasting money but more importantly I don't want to get stuck un-cowling the plane on a hot Texas ramp to replace an unforgivingly fouled plug while my wife and dog wait patiently under the nearest shade tree. Running Tommy's system might help me avoid that scenario. I may just reuse (clean and re-gap) the four best massives while adding four new fine wires on bottom (leaving me with four spares). Anybody else want to chime in? Chuck Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Okay, I've read all the recent "plug" threads, but would like just a bit more input. My current Tempest massives have worked well for me but have some noticeable center electrode wear approaching 500 hours in service. I could simply clean and re-gap them but I'm giving consideration to replacing them at the upcoming annual. I'd like to replace them all with Tempest Fine Wires but am having a hard time justifying the $614 cost while my current plugs go 50+ degrees LOP with no problems. As a compromise I'm thinking I'll buy 4 Massives for the tops and 4 Fine Wires for the bottoms (where fouling seems more common) and calling it a day. How many of you are mixing plugs like this, and does anybody see a problem with it? Thanks. Cnoe

With the installation of a larger/heavier engine such as this in my 201 would it be possible/advisable to add ballast to the rear empennage to counter the added nose weight? Cnoe

Did I really say "Elvis"? Must have been a Freudian slip as I was hoping that would be MY call sign.[emoji4] But seriously, they didn't really let you off the hook that easily did they? Cnoe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Don't you mean Lacee - "Elvis" Gotta wear it proudly dude! Pink boa and all. LOL Cnoe

That is hilarious, but I'm pretty sure my plane would be renamed the "Vomit Comet" if I took Eli on such a ride. Cnoe

The yoga mat's a great idea; I'll likely go with that when the paint gets updated. Regarding the restraint, I had a leash shortened to ~3' with a clip on each end and a d-ring installed on one of the seat belts next to the sidewall. I clip his harness to the d-ring with the short leash and he's able to stand up and turn around without any problems if he wants. He's never once acted up during a flight but a leap into the front could be catastrophic during landing/takeoff so I'm not taking that chance. Regarding Tummler's question about the back seat, I've taken the seat "bottom" out for spar inspections, etc. but removing the seat "back" is a real pain in the butt in the older J's. I don't think it would be that big of a deal if you left it out permanently but taking it in and out repeatedly would get old quickly. I seem to remember a thread somewhere on Mooneyspace about modifying the older seat back with some sort of pivot and release mechanism. You may be able to find that with a search. Hope this helps. Cnoe

Our son Eli (Goldendoodle) is ~3 years old and weighs ~90#. He's logged 85 hours already and makes every cross-country flight with my wife and I. I lower the flaps during the preflight and leave them down for boarding (both for people and pets); that keeps them from getting stepped on accidentally. Since my paint's not new and Eli's nails aren't too gnarly I just tell him to get in the plane. He jumps on the wing walk and when I lean the seat forward he steps right onto the rear seat and lays down. I did make a removable denim cover for the seat to keep things cleaner. My J is a '78 so it's a regular seat, and I'm pretty sure I couldn't fit another dog in there with him though. I'd love the fold-down seats, but the newer planes didn't fit my budget. He does wear Mutt Muffs, and usually tolerates them well, but a couple of times recently they've come off enroute. I'm going to use an elastic chin strap on him next time to see if that helps. With his big floppy ears they do hang out the bottom of the cups somewhat but I just make sure to cover his actual ear canals. Though he sometimes "pretends" not to hear me (especially when encountering a squirrel) I'm pretty sure his hearing is still intact because I can whisper the word "treat" from another room and he'll come begging. Cnoe

Hey Paul, looks like we were both posting about Rusk simultaneously. Hope to see you in Kerrville for the formation clinic soon. Chuck

Athens, TX (F44) SE of Dallas is currently at $3.35/gal, and Rusk County, TX (15 miles south of Maxwell's shop) is $3.49. My local field south of Houston was $3.55 this weekend so YES, I've been getting in a lot of practice lately (weather permitting). On the other hand Miami Intl. (at $8.90/gal) seems a bit pricey. Cnoe

Yes, the procedure is outlined in the POH. You can do it empty or full. And absolutely $450 was TOO expensive for the W&B procedure, but then again it was done at KFXE where NOTHING is cheap. The price was paid more for convenience than anything but still the "correct" procedure requires 3 scales and some precise measurements. It's not something that can be done properly in an hour. Cnoe

Following a tank reseal on a partnership E we paid $450 in Ft. Lauderdale to have a new W&B done. Tanks were already empty so it made it easy. That was in 2013 I believe. Cnoe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Caught this partial eclipse on my iPhone in late 2012. Wish I'd had a better camera on board. Post pics from your flight if you have them. Cnoe

The $65 RR license is good for life while the $165 AC license is only good for 10 years. Figures. Cnoe

Looks really nice. If you don't mind my asking, did your cowl already look that good or was it refurbished by someone? Cnoe

The most common hardness is 75 in this material but any of those hardness will be fine. Softer might be better; harder o-rings are typically designed to hold back high pressure (I use the 90 durometer version to routinely hold back 3,500+ psi) and the softer ones would seat easier. Also note that "color" doesn't necessarily equate to material. Many fluorosilicone o-rings are black like nitrile/buna. The large fuel cap o-rings are also readily available though I can't remember the number off the top of my head. I have spares at the hangar and can check the number sometime if anybody cares. You should change those at the same time as they get surface cracking after a while. They only cost like $1 each from a few sources. Cnoe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The dental cameras are "primarily" good for verifying exhaust valve integrity. It's a pretty good bet that you won't lose a valve in the 50 hours between oil changes if they look okay at each inspection. While you can see "part" of the cylinder with one of these there is no way to manipulate it to see the entire bore circumference. But then cylinder wall condition is an unlikely cause of catastrophic engine failure. Cnoe

Having given up my CB badge earlier today...I decided what better time than now to make a donation to MooneySpace. I've been mooching around here too long. I trust that $10,000.00 is adequate? Cnoe