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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/04/2012 in all areas

  1. This is quite amazing. Exactly what I've been looking for all these years...
    1 point
  2. Several months ago there was a "C" model being liquidated by an FBO that lost their contract. I think it was going for around $29k and was possibly a decent airplane. I'd say you should be able to get a sound "F" with a dated panel, mid-time engine and possibly a minor speed mod or two once you start getting closer to the $40k mark. Edit: The airplane you posted the listing for may be the type of airplane that I just described. I'd spend the money to have Lake Aero or Top Gun do a prepurchase on it and I'd try to get it for less than $30k.
    1 point
  3. Good to have support... Ask Craig if he has considered reserving BellancaSpace.com.... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  4. Really not trying to give you hell about this. I would love to have small numbers on my airplane as well. This thread on ar15.com shows an issue a pilot found himself with. You may want to get a letter to carry around with you in your plane stating the approval in case you get ramp checked. I know that '67F owners have issues sometimes with the location of their data plate above the door, which meets the regs that state it must be visible from the ground, not that you have to be able to read it. Here is the thread on ar15.com that shows the problems one pilot had in regards to his numbers: http://www.ar15.com/...7/982093_.html Added: oldcatdriver in that thread, who is now banned from ar15.com, is one of FiFi's pilots (the only flying B29). I would recommend that you just get a letter from the FAA and that you keep it in your airplane in case you run into an inspector like the guy in the thread.
    1 point
  5. I'd love to take you, but I have a C model...Just let me know. Im close by and fly weekly.
    1 point
  6. I believe Fluffysheap(?) and Jorgen have it about right, and as Jorgen points out the low boost and high boost switches actually operate the same pump in different circuits and in different places or modes: For K models: The low boost pump is to mitigate fuel vaporization in the way that Fluffysheap very accurately describes above. Another indication of its need is a fluctuating fuel flow. The prime switch, or low boost pump's prime circuit, actually pumps fuel directly into the main induction tube inlet by the controller and the preferred priming method when so equipped. The high boost pump is for the emergency situation should your engine driven pump fail - its use is documented in the emergency procedures section of your POH where it also describes it limitations. Exceptions for other Models: Although the K does not use low boost for tank switching some of the long bodies do, such as the TN and S mentioned by c02Bruce earlier. Not all the Continental equipped models have a Prime Circuit on the low boost. For example the TN does not and relies on the High Boost for 5 seconds or Low for 25 sec; as compared to 5 to 6 seconds for the K models with the low boost prime circuit. If your Mooney has a prime circuit, it’s the preferred method from a safety standpoint. If the circuit has failed, then High Boost is the easy way to get it started. But be careful, this does work well but is risking a much greater chance of an engine fire because the high boost pump is pumping large quantities of fuel directly into the cylinders and over doing it could lead to a fire. Its also helpful to wait 30 seconds for the fuel to vaporize in the induction tube (or cylinder) before engaging the starter (after following the recommended number of seconds for priming based on ambient temperature from the graph in TCM Engine Operations manual if you have it). There is an additional use of the High Boost pump documented in your TCM Engines Operation guide and some of the later model POHs. This is specifically only for Hot Starts, and the procedure has been discussed elsewhere but is basically, pull the mixture and throttle all the way back (idle cut off), then run the high boost for approx 15 seconds. Running the high boost with mixture at Idle cut off prevents fuel from getting past the fuel divider (only on Continentals) and circulates the hot vaporizing fuel back to the tank replacing it with cool fuel to aid starting. After running the high boost at idle cut off, put the mixture forward and start up without priming. Lastly, running the low boost needlessly for very long isn't a good practice for the pocket book. I know of number of owners that burned out their electric pumps using it to drain their tanks. A neighbor of mine did that to a brand new pump - ouch! Also, having it on at idle shouldn't cause a properly leaned engine to stop, but you'll likely note the engine won't stop when you pull the mixture to idle cut-off if the boost is running. When it’s on, some fuel is going to dribble past the fuel divider into the cylinders enough to keep it running.
    1 point
  7. I wonder when were (m20j) at 2000-2200 lean of peak, or Rop peak for that matter at a high engine power % at a low RPM if it could contribute to cracking of the case? Each time the cylinder fires it puts out more leverage because more air is in the cylinder along with more fuel, and results in higher interanal cylinder pressure, so i wonder if the increased vibration is a contributing factor of cracking of IO-360 cases. I can feel the vibration of the power strokes much more when rpms are down and just wondering if the vibration is bad? Probably not good for instruments, gel coat on the cowl ect? Thoughts? Thats why I typically never run less than 2250 at high power settings, such as 9.8-10 gallons per hour. There isnt much power stroke vibration at around 7gph our so (low power settings). The 6 cylinders are much smoother at 2100 than a 4 cylinder. So I wonder if there is more cost per hour because of the increased vibration from low rpm high load operation and if so if it is offset by the .3gph fuel savings by running the prop slower?
    1 point
  8. The Mooney Retrofit kit drawings for the Yoke upgrade allows you to legally replace vaccum button with the electric valve and push button switch. The valve is part of the yoke and control shaft upgrade. A lot of people pull the air valve button out, but I believe this will allow unfiltered air into the vac system.
    1 point
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