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Yes, and I very much thank MikeOh for the article. I have already ordered the shim from lasar. This is my 3ard Mooney, had an F and an E, never experienced anything like this on either previous airplanes. I am going to have the shop check the entire nosewheel when it goes in.

I have to agree, I live in south Florida and have had several mooney’s with ac, and the kool scoop makes ground ops totally tolerable and once you’re over 8k all is well. I have an endless battle with the ac in my A and if I could use something like the scoop in that plane I would in a heartbeat. unfortunately a pressurized plane has bleed air and you just get cooked without ac and it sucks!

And if you’re doing push button, are you also doing mag switches? They seem nice but possibly easier to leave on (hot prop!)

That is possible but today the wind was dead calm, no crosswind. I think Don Maxwells article is exactly what I am experiencing.

While my plane gets pretty hot in the summer, lugging large amounts of ice to the plane does not really seem a good solution to me. Bringing in substance that releases large quantity of suffocating gas even less so. I settled on the KoolScoop that I modified so it is removable and does not stay attached to the window and it seems to provide some relief on the hot days, albeit not as good as A/C. Total investment $50 plus some time to modify the scoop. Stays in the side pocket all year round and deployed when needed. Negligible effect on useful load and my back. Reasonably satisfactory result.

The issue with a push to start, is that you won't hear the SOS before starter engagement.

Our club will be sending our plane in for some avionics upgrades and one of our annoyances is that the key is so close to the side wall, that it is very difficult to turn to start the engine. One of our instructors suggested adding a push button ignition instead. Has anyone done this? We don't have room for the ElectroAir model on Aircraft spruce, so it would need to be a round 3/4" button.

You are correct, 1.55 gm/cc

My numbers were BTU/pound for both dry ice and water ice. Dry ice is denser than water (at least it's always sunk when I've dropped in water for Halloween 'effects')

https://www.amazon.com/KooingTech-Submersible-Transfer-Portable-Stainless/dp/B0DMFG2STN/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?

YUUP! That's why I don't think this idea is worth pursuing. The venting needs to be 100% effective and 100% reliable. Not realistic. I've considered a CO2 monitor, but when it goes off just what are you going to do? Crawl in the back seat and start throwing the dry ice out the storm window??? (Better have gloves on)

I read an accident report of the Labcore plane transporting samples stored on dry ice.

Don’t forget the density of the two.

Maybe I'm wrong, but my research shows the latent heat of vaporization for water ice is 144 btu/pound, but COOLING the ice below 32 F only gets you 0.5 btu/F. Most ice is purchased is around 20 F to 25 F, so only another 6 btu/pound, so around 150 btu/pound is the best you're going to do. Dry ice's latent heat of sublimation is nearly 250 btu/pound. Dry ice is at about -110 F, so you could pick up another 80 btu if you used the dry ice to cool the water ice as you suggested; that would get you around 225 btu/pound. But, that seem quite the hassle as you still need to get rid of the water! Again, this is just 'back of envelope' spit-balling, so my numbers may be way off

I did Jet Center a few years ago. They were very reasonable.

I’m just taking pride in the fact that Cirrus pilots can’t have this argument….

I couldn't agree more. Although these discussions can be enlightening I feel we're mostly missing the the most important thing. No matter what procedure you use its clear folks aren't practicing the procedure enough because we keep seeing fatal accidents from what should be well practiced go around procedures. Such as the Cirrus last week that didn't have a gear to mess with but got to slow leading the all to common loss of control and then accelerated stall turning. Regardless of how comfortable we are in our landings we need to regularly practice a Go Around like everything else! On another related topic I was reminded discussing this with another longbody pilot is the use of rudder trim. I encourage longbody pilot to forego use of Rudder trim on takeoff and save it for the long climb after initial takeoff. But when every takeoff is done with rudder trim then the Go Around is doubly hard and much easier to get into trouble from not being practiced at using adequate rudder while climbing and high power on a GA. On the other hand pilots that already have the rudder skills at takeoff have an easier time with the GA.

Thus the important part about raising gear: Full throttle POSITIVE RATE, Gear Up Flaps up when clear (Just like every takeoff)

I started reading this and immediately thought "but CO2" and then you addressed it at the end...lol Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I thought we went through this dry ice thing a while back. While dry ice has more sensible heat capacity, water ice has much more latent heat capacity. I think super cooled water ice is your best bet. You could cool your water ice with dry ice before you used it. That would really be the best you could do.

I've toyed with the idea of using dry ice, rather than water ice, to build an "Arctic Cool" type of system. Dry ice at minus whatever it is, has almost twice the heat capacity of water ice and it doesn't leave behind all that water to get rid of! Dry ice sublimes at less than 0.5 lb/hour. At the higher heat capacity you'd only need about half as many pounds of dry ice and very likely to last 6 hours, or more! Thing is, it is IMPERATIVE to have a fool-proof system to vent the sublimated CO2 gas overboard; 1 pound of dry ice generates about 8.5 cubic feet of CO2! Mooney cabin is around 75 cubic feet, so directly adding over 4 cubic feet per hour of CO2 to the cabin would be seriously bad!

Would love to have A/C in Bravo for summer ground ops. Unfortunately my current W&B would make such endeavor an exercise in futility. Good luck with it. Hope it will work for you and others.

31 pounds for the AC stuff, 21 for the battery. The Ecoflow is 50 pounds with battery so, it's a wash there. I'm using a 100Ah LifePO4 for.the buffer battery. That should handle ground ops and then recharge some in flight. I see this as really running off the battery with the alternator just charging that more than running off the airplane electrical. That's how the Ecoflow runs, it uses its own battery and I have a 10A charging cable going to it. For this, I'd run heavier wire on its own 50A breaker, like the PlaneAC called for. I haven't figured out what yet but, I'm going to put some sort of electrical isolation on so this won't cause any feedback to the electrical system. Might be as simple as a couple of diodes, I need to dig into that more. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

As far as I know they're still selling spatial interiors through Wisconsin Aviation - see https://www.jaegeraviation.com/home I haven't had any recent experience though.

How much does all that weigh? Check your 'buffer' battery capability/capacity carefully because, on the ground when you really need the AC, the engine is NOT going to be running at a high enough rpm for the alternator to help much. I.e. most of that 60 Amps is going to have to come from the battery for as long as you need to startup, taxi, run-up, and wait for release. Also, I'd be very careful with tying in a non-aviation electrical item into the aircraft's electrical system (alternator and ship's battery).