Can't lean my Bravo

[LANCECASPER]

3 minutes ago, Patrick Horan said:

Looks like this baffle is mounted a little bit incorrectly 

If you can, try to get some good pictures from underneath the cylinders.

[Patrick Horan]

1 hour ago, LANCECASPER said:

If you can, try to get some good pictures from underneath the cylinders.

I'm flying home from Utah, back to AZ. When I land I'll do that!

[Patrick Horan]

I just changed the upper deck hoses. I'm still have issues. Looks like I'm back to square 1. 

[Rick Junkin]

17 hours ago, Patrick Horan said:

I just changed the upper deck hoses. I'm still have issues. Looks like I'm back to square 1. 

Sorry to hear that! I’m out of my depth beyond that suggestion. Something is not right in the air/fuel regulation systems and I hope you can find it quickly.

[Fritz1]

suspecting a fuel flow imbalance a GAMI type lean test might provide clues if not done already, they describe it on their website, in a nutshell go to a power setting that cannot damage anything, let's say below 60%, maybe 24" 2400 rpm start leaning in 0.5 gph increments and record fuel flow, TIT, EGTS, CHTs, find and record peak EGT for each cylinder, I did that with my wife before I installed the GAMIs, I said the numbers and she wrote them into a table, my EDM 700 did not have a data logger, this will tell you something, a good peak EGT spread is below 0.5 gph, .3 gph is about as good as it gets, chances are there are several things going on, TIT reading low is very likely unless you replaced the probe since you owned the airplane, I replaced mine with an Alcor probe last summer, only the Alcor was available, the burnt KS probe read about 100 degrees low, think the Alcor is right on. My CHTs typically range between 350 and 380 dF in cruise, for quite a while #4 was my hottest cylinder, spent quite some time replacing worn baffle pieces and squeezing RTV into the last nook and cranny, all the little gaps add up, the Bravo engine pushes the parallel valve design to the limit and has nothing in common with the 541s used in Aerostars, Dukes and Navajos, this is a much heavier engine with cross flow heads and angle valves, think that engine is at least 50 lb heavier, the Bravo is nose heavy as it is so the 541 was not an option, properly set up the AF1B turns the Bravo into a magic carpet, you will figure it out and you are getting close

[Rick Junkin]

I shared this by DM but posting here for the next guy having issues. This is some info on troubleshooting a turbocharged engine. I found it educational.

https://www.avweb.com/ownership/troubleshooting-the-turbo-system/

 

[Patrick Horan]

On 10/31/2024 at 3:40 PM, LANCECASPER said:

If you can, try to get some good pictures from underneath the cylinders.

I think i found some baffling issues, starting with cylinder #1's metal baffle that starts towards the front. That front baffle and the spring that connects to the back baffle is loose. There are a lot of holes towards the front That seems to be leaking out to the bottom of the engine

[LANCECASPER]

7 hours ago, Patrick Horan said:

I think i found some baffling issues, starting with cylinder #1's metal baffle that starts towards the front. That front baffle and the spring that connects to the back baffle is loose. There are a lot of holes towards the front That seems to be leaking out to the bottom of the engine

It looks like you are on to something. 

I don't have any pictures, but all of these intercylinder baffles are held together tightly underneath by springs that look like piano wire. If those are missing or loose you are losing a lot of cooling air. 

If any other Bravo owners have a picture of the underneath baffle spring setup, it would be very helpful

[Fritz1]

tightening those connecting wires between the metal baffles will help, check the rubber baffling all around and don't count on ram air closing anything, the rubber has to press against the cowl, all small losses add up, check where the intercooler duct connects to the intercooler, lots of ram air leaks out, use hi temp RTV, seal any leaks around the oil cooler with hi temp RTV, factory baffling has large holes around the starter, step by step CHTs and oil temp will come down

[philiplane]

On 10/30/2024 at 1:01 PM, Patrick Horan said:

I found this picture online of a bravo engine and it shows that this pipe is straight. While mine is bent

First picture is the one I found online, 

Second picture is what's on my bravo

this is simply an injector pressurization line. The bend has no effect on flow whatsoever. 

[Patrick Horan]

7 hours ago, Fritz1 said:

tightening those connecting wires between the metal baffles will help, check the rubber baffling all around and don't count on ram air closing anything, the rubber has to press against the cowl, all small losses add up, check where the intercooler duct connects to the intercooler, lots of ram air leaks out, use hi temp RTV, seal any leaks around the oil cooler with hi temp RTV, factory baffling has large holes around the starter, step by step CHTs and oil temp will come down

Thank you!!