Getting closer to IO-360-A3B6 swap from IO-360-A3B6D, am I missing anything?

[jkarch]

As some of you know I had my cam go bad over the past 3-4 years. I ordered a replacement roller tappet IO-360-A3B6 dual mag engine. I’ve purchased a new vacuum pump and oil cooler, flushed inspected, and painted the propeller, overhauled the prop governor with new bracket and gear setting for the A3B6, got the right 73750 prop governor oil line, replaced throttle and prop cables (mixture done 4 years ago), cleaned and inspected control ball joints, purchased an EDM-900 and gotten it ready for connection to the new engine, bead blasted, NDTed, inspected, primed, painted, and clear coated the engine mount, secured all new hoses and firewall  mount bolts and LORD mounts and bolts. Basically everything but the exhaust which checks out fine.  I also purchased a new, powder coated baffle set and cleaned out the air box.  I cleaned the spinner and all nuts and bolts removed, but could use some more adel clamps and bolts.  I also had the harnesses rebuilt for ignition, field current, and EDM sensors.  Anything else I’m missing? Looks like the engine is coming in a few weeks. I want to have everything there so the install goes smoothly. Thoughts?

Edited August 7, 2019 by jkarch

[carusoam]

+1 on new control cables...

+1 on reworking the engine mount and rubber bits...

Any thoughts on going with an electronic mag?

It is going to be like flying a new plane, almost... 

Best regards,

-a-

[jkarch]

The engine mount redo was really cool, especially using dye penetrants to inspect for cracks under a blacklight. I have access to a facility that does non destructive testing, and have an A&P friend who works there. He also helped me repaint it in a paint booth. It looks brand new.   I figured I needed new prop and throttle cables as the mixture cable came out in my hand 4 years ago(in the hangar luckily). 

 

As for electronic ignition- yes, very much on my mind. Too bad the swap couldn’t wait 6 months as Lycoming will have a certified electronic solution to include at the end of the year. I thought about Electroair, but figured I’m spending enough. Maybe I will sell the slick mags in two years.I was told by Lycoming to not install my GAMIs (which would need to be changed for the new good cam engine) as it would void the warranty and wait till the warranty is up, and my starter motor started separating from the gear so I’m possibly getting a free lightweight starter. The only old things are some nuts, bolts, and adel clamps and a cleaned up muffler, which is in ok shape.  Also found one small curly cue of metal in the screen after all these years. Too bad the screen is inaccessible on an M20J.  Yeah, it’s going to be a new plane. I just hope the static RPM difference from 2575 with the bad Cam to 2700 means an extra 7 Kts. The only other item is a Reiff heater.

Edited August 7, 2019 by jkarch

[carusoam]

Full rpm will be helpful for...

• shorter T/O distance...
• faster climb rate...
• More fuel used... 

The extra fuel for T/O and climb isn’t very noticeable... but, for a long cruise section, it becomes more noticeable...

Sound and vibration levels also increase with rpm...

Think about a dynamic balance for the prop when it is all together...

Best regards,

-a-

[jkarch]

That’s a good one.. dynamic balancing. I noticed  that my fuel flow dropped from 19ish to 16.9 GPH on takeoff over the years.  Amazing I never associated that with anything.

[jetdriven]

J model won’t develop 2700 RPM static and the oil sump screen is accessible. 
Also, the approved prop governor for the A3B6 is different than the -D engine. It’s the same model but different suffix because the governor drive pad ratio is different. 

[jkarch]

 LASAR sent my prop governor out for overhaul and changed the drive pad ratio in the process in addition to mounting a new governor bracket. Dan basically instructed the shop to convert the governor over with new settings.  The paperwork says reconfigured to T24. As for static RPM, I thought the service manual said 2700 RPM is the desired setting but 2650 is allowable?

[PT20J]

38 minutes ago, jkarch said:

 LASAR sent my prop governor out for overhaul and changed the drive pad ratio in the process in addition to mounting a new governor bracket. Dan basically instructed the shop to convert the governor over with new settings.  The paperwork says reconfigured to T24. As for static RPM, I thought the service manual said 2700 RPM is the desired setting but 2650 is allowable?

The governor should be set for 2700 rpm. The low pitch stops (at least for McCauleys) should be set slightly less than that, so static rpm is a bit less than 2700. 

Skip

[PT20J]

2 hours ago, jkarch said:

As some of you know I had my cam go bad over the past 3-4 years. I ordered a replacement roller tappet IO-360-A3B6 dual mag engine. I’ve purchased a new vacuum pump and oil cooler, flushed inspected, and painted the propeller, overhauled the prop governor with new bracket and gear setting for the A3B6, got the right 73750 prop governor oil line, replaced throttle and prop cables (mixture done 4 years ago), cleaned and inspected control ball joints, purchased an EDM-900 and gotten it ready for connection to the new engine, bead blasted, NDTed, inspected, primed, painted, and clear coated the engine mount, secured all new hoses and firewall  mount bolts and LORD mounts and bolts. Basically everything but the exhaust which checks out fine.  I also purchased a new, powder coated baffle set and cleaned out the air box.  I cleaned the spinner and all nuts and bolts removed, but could use some more adel clamps and bolts.  I also had the harnesses rebuilt for ignition, field current, and EDM sensors.  Anything else I’m missing? Looks like the engine is coming in a few weeks. I want to have everything there so the install goes smoothly. Thoughts?

If it has been removed, reinstall the link on the ignition switch to ground out the right mag during start. The impulse coupling retards both mags on a D3000, but your new Slicks will come with an impulse coupling on the left mag. only.

Skip

 

[jkarch]

I’ve been thinking about this one as I saw it in that lengthy report.   I do have the ignition switch pulled out now as the instruments on the left side of the panel were taken out when I added the EDM-900. Do you have more info about this? Is this just a 16-18AWG jumper with two PIDG lugs on it? I’ll have to check the schematic of my serial number and compare it to newer versions in terms of the ignition switch.

[PT20J]

Here's the Mooney SI on the ignition switch modification. The Bendix switches come with a link. I could not find a part number for it I couldn't find any so I just made up a jumper wire as you suggest.

sim20-59a.pdf

Skip

[Oldguy]

I am at ~1,600 SMOH on my A3B6D and will change out to the A3B6 when it is time, so I have been following different threads about folks who have done or are doing this. One thread that went into great detail with pictures, part numbers, etc. I have listed below. The one item I read in it not mentioned in yours, is his discovery the oil line included by  Lycoming for the prop does not fit. Dan at LASAR helped him out, and he included pictures showing how it went as well as the part number. Might be good to just run through his thread to see if there are any other nuggets of information hidden in there.

Edit: Just reread where you got the correct prop oil line. Good going!

 

[OR75]

Will be going through the same process soon but with an IO-390-A3A6

[PT20J]

I did’t change the prop governor line. It was an expensive long-lead part from Lycoming and Lycoming. I discussed with several MSCs that had installed A3B6s and all said to just deform the standard line slightly to clear the engine mount, which is what we did. 

Skip

[jkarch]

12 hours ago, PT20J said:

Here's the Mooney SI on the ignition switch modification. The Bendix switches come with a link. I could not find a part number for it I couldn't find any so I just made up a jumper wire as you suggest.

sim20-59a.pdf 18.66 kB · 1 download

Skip

Thanks Skip! I’ll check the logs and switch to see if the jumper was removed! That helps clarify things greatly...

[jkarch]

1 hour ago, PT20J said:

I did’t change the prop governor line. It was an expensive long-lead part from Lycoming and Lycoming. I discussed with several MSCs that had installed A3B6s and all said to just deform the standard line slightly to clear the engine mount, which is what we did. 

Skip

Thanks for that info... unfortunately I already spent the $450 for the part, and it was the  first part to arrive on my new engine:) I’ll have another line to sell I guess...

[jkarch]

1 hour ago, OR75 said:

Will be going through the same process soon but with an IO-390-A3A6

Wow, new prop too then? I would have done the 390 if I needed a prop...

[jkarch]

3 hours ago, Oldguy said:

I am at ~1,600 SMOH on my A3B6D and will change out to the A3B6 when it is time, so I have been following different threads about folks who have done or are doing this. One thread that went into great detail with pictures, part numbers, etc. I have listed below. The one item I read in it not mentioned in yours, is his discovery the oil line included by  Lycoming for the prop does not fit. Dan at LASAR helped him out, and he included pictures showing how it went as well as the part number. Might be good to just run through his thread to see if there are any other nuggets of information hidden in there.

Edit: Just reread where you got the correct prop oil line. Good going!

 

Yeah I saw the thread about this issue and saw the note about bending the line but Dan from LASAR talked me out of this and so I ordered 75730. Good thing because I want to protect my freshly painted mount and don’t want the engine dinging into the mount.  One thing I will do is buy a bunch of Adel clamps to avoid zip ties when possible, especially on the mount.

[OR75]

7 minutes ago, jkarch said:

Wow, new prop too then? I would have done the 390 if I needed a prop...

I actually changed my prop to a Hartzell a few years back. So cost is pretty much the same.

I believe I will be going through the exact same changes you are going through (Governors ratio,  brackets, ....)

Only part that maybe slightly different may be the baffling. But i am thinking 30 extra cubic inches won't make a change for the baffling.     

[jkarch]

I ended up buying new baffling from Airforms up in Big Lakes Alaska. Also got a new oil cooler from Pacific Oil Coolers

[OR75]

24 minutes ago, jkarch said:

I ended up buying new baffling from Airforms up in Big Lakes Alaska. Also got a new oil cooler from Pacific Oil Coolers

was the baffling in  bad shape ? or you needed new forms ?

 

[jkarch]

15 minutes ago, OR75 said:

was the baffling in  bad shape ? or you needed new forms ?

 

I couldn’t bear seeing ugly, corroded looking baffling with tons of RTV being put on a “new” engine. While most parts were airworthy there were some chafed parts directing airflow into the fins of the lower parts of the cylinders 

[jkarch]

So this part is a bit confusing. Going through the forum about the IO360 conversion experience I saw reference to  part number 660017-003 and 670017-005 for cable clamp halves. Are these the same as the A3B6D?  Dan at LASAR did not tell me about these. Also I used the “modworks” bracket 660117-000, is that different than the official Mooney bracket and therefore compatible with the original clamps?

[jkarch]

Here is the relevant post

[jetdriven]

Those had a long lead time and they were expensive. As it turns out the clamp part of our prop governor cable is out beyond the end of the new style prop governor bracket arm. So we had to scab on an extension to it, and then use the hardware that was on the airplane to fasten it to that.  Those had a long lead time and they were expensive. As it turns out the clamp part of our prop governor cable is out beyond the end of the new style prop governor bracket arm. So we had to scab on an extension and then use the hardware that was on the airplane to fasten it to that