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Posted

I am still having issues getting the baffling folded forward when putting the cowling back on.  I make sure it's right but the paint shop or the avionics shop etc don't.  I was going to make a couple braces bent at 30 degrees and rivet them to the metal baffling to hold the silicon forward.

 

Anyone think of a reason I shouldn't do so?  It makes a huge difference in the cylinder/oil temps.

 

 

Posted

I had the same issue when I replaced my baffle seals and glued a couple "dog ears" in the middle of the baffle on each side of the cowling center line. Each ear is a couple inches wide and sticks up an inch or so. It's held up for the 4 or so years since I've made the modification. If going this route use a glue that's rated for high heat.

Posted

I would use something to temporarily hold the baffling bent slightly inward then apply a dab of rtv between the baffling seal and the aluminum baffling. Once it dries remove whatever you have used to hold it in position. the seal will stay in a position slightly inward so as to help people that don't pay attention to detail when buttoning up. I had a discussion about this with an avionics shop, when I picked the plane up I removed the cowling to look things over before the preflight. I believe they thought I was an asshole, the owner came out and asked what was wrong and I told them the most dangerous time to fly a plane is after a mechanic has had a hold of it. I believe I offened him.

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