BigTex

Yep... 99% that's what you're seeing... Static drain. Should have a second one, just past the wing more in the cener of the belly.

Guys, A friend of mine switched from CorrosionX to TC-11 for is power boat as a corrosion preventative. There's some pretty bold claims on their website. Does anyone have any experience with it? http://www.tc-11.com/

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Mine fires right up... Boost pump on and when pressure is built up, I shut it off. Then two pumps of the throttle. I make sure is see the fuel pressure drop with each pump. Crack the throttle a 1/4 inch had the fires right up. Then I lean it pretty aggressively.

Byron - Just out of curiosity, will you be going back with the same Aeroshell 100/Camguard combo for your new engine?

I recently scanned in my near mint 1965 M20C Owners manual. It includes a supplement section that references differences with the 1962 - 1964 models documented in the 1965 M20C manual. PM me if you'd like a copy. Some of the text has faded but overall it turned out pretty well. It's also pretty big (4MB).

A couple of thoughts... I've actually experienced engine roughness when climbing out and forgetting to lean out. Did you attempt to do any leaning to see if that made any difference? Also, I had an issue where my engine ran rough anytime I increased MP beyound 24". That turned out to be a mag issue where the timing was off on the left mag.

I'd like to swap out my stock mixture cable on my 65 C model with a vernier style cable. What's required to make this swap out? Do I need a 337?

Just a follow-up on my 403 to SPA400 swap-out. It turned out to be a pretty easy exchange. I had a wiring adaper built that would connect the existing 403 wiring to the SPA400. It worked great. Not sure if anyone else is thinking about this swapout but if so, PM me and I'll send you the wiring diagram for the adapter.

I aways start my engine on the lowest tank then prior to the preflight checks and runup, I switch to the fullest tank. That way I know both tanks are flowing. I also have a 30 minute alert programmed into my 430 to remind me to switch tanks.

For those that might get there mid-week that can't make the BBQ, does anyone know of any other planned get together's for the rest of us Mooniacs?

When I purchased my plane, the yoke where the clock normally goes was removed and was covered up with a clipboard. Not a fan of the yoke mounted clipboard, I've decided to pull it off and reinstall the clock. The only problem is I don't have the Quartz clock that would mount on the yoke. It appears the Quartz clock sold by Aircraft Spruce doesn't fit. Any thoughts on how I can get my hands on the orginal clock?

Quote: robert7467 I dont care if I get bashed on this forum, but as far as my instructor is concerned, I have a slight issue with that. The reason I am so confident in him, is he knows what the hell he is doing.

For those that haven't seen this article, it's a pretty interesting Q&A with the various oil companies. What's even more interesting is the side bar article with Ed responding to some Q&A's. http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/answers_about_oil_195194-1.html

I'll get with Mike Busch and see if I can find out the source he cited in his webinar and report back.

Larry, You might want to watch Mike busch's webinars on oil and you might want to reconsider switching. You might want to consider switching from W100+ to W100 & Camguard. Then during winter go with X/C 20W50 & Camguard.

Do you gus use the foaming version or the standard spray?

Being from Texas, I would lean toward Aeroshell 5 as it appears handle hot Texas summer months better than 6. I don't think -40 is an issue and if it was, I'd do what John Deakin recommends and move.

Looking at my owners many for the Hartzell prop, it calls out using Aeroshell 5 or 6. Is there such a thing as Harzell DG Grease? Byron - Do you use Aeroshell 33 on our prop?

I recently was reviewing the service manual for my '65 M20C and they have a whole laundry list of lubricates and grease that they recommend. This got be to thinking about what today's products translate to these 40+ year old recommendations? I'm assuming with the quality of today's products, do we need to have this many of unique products or can they be combined? Here's the list of the MM: Low Temperature Oil (General Purpose) MIL-L-7870 MIL-G-7711 or MIL-G-81322 Grease Grease (High Temperature) MIL-L-3545 MIL-G-23827 or Hartzell DG Grease Hydraulic Fluid (Red) MIL-H-5606 Graphite & Kerosene Graphite & MIL-G-3278 Grease or MIL-G-23827 Powdered Graphite Teflon Spray (Tri-Flon) Stick Lubricant (Door Ease or Equivalent) Standard Oil Aviation Grease No. 5 w/10% BV Molybdenum Disulfide or MIL-G-23827 AM1 Lubriplate 630AA (10% BV Molybdenum Disulfide Mixture Permissible) Seal Dressing If I were to open up your lubrication cabinet what would I find that would translate to the above products listed in Mooney's lubrication guide?

I picked up a Fuel Hawk dip tube and before going through the work of calibrating it, I wanted to see if anyone had the calibration scale for the 54 gallon bladder tanks? I have one for the standard 52 gallon tanks but not the one for the 54 gallon tanks.

I've already purchased the SPA so I'll give that a try first... Now I need to work of the wiring for the adapter cable.

Maybe I just have a bad one but the Flightcom I'm using now every once in awhile it starts making a banging sound. It almost sounds like your setting inside a trash can during a thunderstorm. I like the idea of just building an adapter cable to go between the 9 pin and the 25 pin. If anyone has a wiring diagram, I'd love to see it.

I've decided to swapout my POS Flightcom 403 for a Sigtronics SPA-400. Looking at the wiring it's not even close to being the same. Has anyone made this swapout and if so, how did you handle the wiring? It looks like you can make an adapter cable to be able plug in the SPA into the Flightcom wiring. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on this switch.