LOCOLJ

This is why I recommended a rivet gun; I put a piece of wood under the bolt and buck the gun a couple of times and they pop out easily.

I have had success using a rivet gun and gently coercing the taper bolt out from below.

I had an issue where I lost oil out of the exhaust due to a loose fitting on the scavenge pump. Since they rebuilt it, make sure it is tight.

As I previously explained, that box where the two fittings are is the airbox to capture pressurized air after the turbo and direct it to the servo infeed and the other pressurized components when the turbo is in use. In the STC, the only components listed that get pressurized are injectors and Fuel pump, no magnetos. Connecting these two components to another port is not listed in my STC docs. You have to account for the pressure loss in the airbox if you don't want to reroute the hoses to where they are suppose to be. As you stated, capping them off may help, but something caused someone the reroute the entire system? From your pictures and description it would appear that currently the injector upper deck lines are connected to the fuel pump pressure port? As others have recommended, It would be advisable to get the manuals and try to get things sorted.

I am not sure about MP bleed off, but in my system the air inlet box will capture boosted air from the turbo by closing a flapper and thoes two fittings capture the higher pressure air in the box and distribute it the the injectors and fuel pump. In your picture, the lower fitting that is aft should have a line going to the fuel pump and the other fitting has a line going vertically to a bulkhead fitting through the baffling and then to the rest of the lines for the upper deck pressure to the injectors. If the waste gate is fully closing then you are likely loosing boost pressure between the turbo and the fuel servo. If those fittings are open they might be your source. Also look at the condition of the hose from the turbo to the air inlet box, the inlet box for holes I found a few there, and make sure the flapper is fully closing with its gasket is in good shape. Not much left to investigate...

I probable overdid this, but wanted something portable that I could remove weight easily and store. Works with fitness weights or paver blocks from HD. Started with a 55g drum dolly and welded a plate to some square tubing with a telescoping mate. This was mostly scrap I had on hand.

These systems are pretty simple, and they tend to run without too much trouble. I would check the upper deck lines, and make sure they are connected and/or not broken, and check the air box where it is connected to. There are some special seals for the injectors so make sure they are in good shape. If you are seeing good GAMI spreads during NA operation, I would think a lower induction leak would show up there as well, and a leak at the airbox would show low boost not necessarily roughness when the turbo is engaged. I had quite a few leaks at the airbox and the turbo ran but did not have super good boost.

I have one in good shape that came out of a 67E. PM me and I will send you pics

Hi There, I looked for this addition a couple of years ago, and apparently Lasar sold a kit to add a movable arm rest to seats for aircraft with a johnson bar. Unfortunately, when I tried to order it they no longer have/sell/fabricate the parts. I think it involved a shaft and some sheet metal work. This would be a good addition when reupholstering the seats, as one would need to cover and add foam to make them comfortable.

I can tell everyone that for the past 15 years, this tank has never seen a wire brush. It was resealed at Wilmar in 2004, so likely they didn't use one either. As my previous posts, it must have been introduced somewhere during refilling. No tank work on this tank since reseal.

No, I don't think so, the photo is 4x. It looks like cable wire strand. I am thinking perhaps fraying ground wire from a fuel pump or it was on the line personnel while refilling. I refilled several times last week without an issue, so I am thinking it was introduced during one of those refills. Hard to say for sure though.

Perhaps I am over cautious, but I always double check the sumps making sure they do not drip after checking. Today, the first flight after a long trip, I checked and noticed a drip. Tried to get it to stop, no luck and got worse. Luckily, I had empty cans in the hanger. Below is what I found. Not sure where it came from, but I thought it would be a good reminder for folks.

Yes, there should be a rods placed through the bottom of the fabric/seat cover with cutouts that attach to those clips.

It was just the seats, and armrests. It may be enough for side panels if you don't have to redo anything.

Depends, I used about 5 yards of material to do my interior. However, I sewed the seats myself, and had to redo a couple of covers to get them right. You will also need foam depending on what shape the seats are in. When reupholstering older seats I will add 1/4" foam layer with muslin to the cover to allow the seat to tighten up against the old tired foam if not replacing the old stuff completely.

Glad this is an easy one..... one mechanic indicated that the system is designed to be under pressure, but NA we are pulling vacuum and the fluctuation is the motor calling for fuel? To answer some other questions The rayjay system includes a special fuel pump which has a reference line to the airbox. The original fuel pressure gage is the one I am referring to and it is still in the green 14psi is the min. Until recently, I have not seen this fluctuation, so I am looking for reasons why I am seeing this change before I dismiss it.

Recently, I have been seeing an intermittent fluctuation in a rayjay turbo fuel pump. It is fluctuating from 20-24 psi and does it at altitude with the turbo disengaged (normally aspirated). The aux pump adds 2-3 psi and fuel flow on the G3 appears to be holding steady at 10gph at 10.5k. We have recently sealed up the intake box and replaced the rsa servo for our io360a1a 200 hp engine. My mechanics and others have told me not to worry about it, but it somehow doesn't seem right to me. No blue leakage out of the pump drain at all, and the pump is about 10yrs since overhaul. There is a pressure line from the air box to the pump; could that be leaking and causing this? Or is this normal when I have a sealed system? I am not noticing any fluctuation when flying below 9k normally aspirated, so I don't think I have an air leak in a fuel line. Any help with this would be appreciated.

I have a m20e with the rayjay turbo normalizer and the same intake system and filter. I have seen oil from a new filter do exactly what you are speaking about. Often I have a stickey coating of filter oil underneath the intake airbox on the bottom cowling. I would verify the oil type before making yourself crazy.

In my experience,cases or bags to be difficult in getting around the seats, so try not to use them. I have found a couple of items are really helpful instead. 1. Wheelbags-https://www.amazon.com/VCYCLE-Cycling-Wheelset-Waterproof-Bicycle/dp/B0739Z8FLF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3BZMYR8285EY7&dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+wheel+bags&qid=1616809889&sprefix=bicycle+wheel+bags%2Caps%2C248&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExU05BV1g4WlEzOUtEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjY4MTkxMlcyOTJCRDZUNFFaNyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDIwMzg0MldYSVkyMVQyM0VGSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= 2. chain sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Chain-Johnny-Black/dp/B007FWDODQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+chain+cover&qid=1616810206&sr=8-3 3. A foldable bike is certainly the best option of ease of getting them in, and for packing. I have modified normal bicycles to fold using these and they work great. http://www.sandsmachine.com/

The rear seat back is attached with 4 bolts. The two bottom ones are a little hard to get to. Piperpainter had a nice write up of a fold down modification for a C several years ago. I think it is still on here? My previous owner had done a modification similar to that.

If you remove or fold down the rear seat you should be able to fit two. I have gone all over the west with bicycles in my E model. I live in Denver, so Moab, Custer, and the tetons are all doable for a day trip with a buddy. Riding in cool places is one of the best perks about owning a plane. Instead of a 100 dollar hamburger its a two hundred dollar ride:)

It does work on an E, we just did it. Perhaps you may find this useful, we placed 2x4s under the tires to not have to draw the jacks so far down to the floor. It also allowed us to manipulate the shaft and bolt into place by using a bit of leverage.

BaldEagle, your description regarding the brightness reduces the noise, thanks for the information. Included is a pick of the unit.

Thanks for responding, I will try to get a picture over the weekend. I know the large braided shielding over the harness is in place, I will look for the ground to the instrument panel. Additionally, the installer grounded the shield of the wire that goes to the audio panel at the aspen per the wire diagram outlined by Aspen.

Thanks for the info. What you indicate improves the problem, makes sense in my case. I did notice that the noise changes especially when my hand was on in front of the unit. Is this a known issue with Aspen? Did they push back when you discussed sending it back?