BillC

I just flew a 1400 mile trip and boy are my arms tired...........REALLY! I don 't have altitude hold so I hand flew the whole way at 8-9000'. After carefully trimming for level flight, I couldn't let the yoke go for more than a minute or two without having to grab it to stop the divergence of one to two hundred feet per minute both climbing and descending. My passenger and I sat very still to see if the pitch sensitivity was from leaning forward. It wasn't. The airplane is now open for the annual and I can not find any loose connections in the elevator system, trim system or empenage. I would expect some thermal activity in places but some of the flight was over the Atlantic ocean. Made no difference. Has anyone experienced this and found a problem or do I need to look harder? It's a '79 M20J. Thanks, Bill

MK, I just read a previous post by you that mentioned that you could change the flash tube without buying the entire strobe light for about $40.00? Where were you able to buy just the flash tube? Thanks again, Bill

Thanks MK. I was hoping the flash tube turned black, but that would be too easy. LOL. Bill P.S. Turns out there's an SDI strobe light in the tail. I'll open the access panel tomorrow and see what brand the power supply is.

My tail strobe light stopped working yesterday. Is there an easy way to tell if it's the tube or the power supply? I have Whelen strobes and power supplies in the wings but am not sure what's in the tail yet. Thanks for your help. Bill

Lukas, I had the same problem with the socks that your having. So, I made my own socks. I cut the socks along the length and sewed in velcro to each side of the cut. Then I just wrapped the sock around the tube, attached the velcro to each other, and glued the leather base to the airframe. Works great. Good Luck, Bill

That's what I need to do. Who overhauled yours?

Thank you Cris.

Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone has removed their Directional Gyro on a J model. Did you drop it out of the bottom of the panel or take it out up top through the glareshield? I haven't looked at the job yet. Before I start, some advice from those who have done it would be helpful. Thanks for your input.

Check out this publication. Click on fifth article down, "fluctuating ammeters". http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/publications.htm

I agree with most of what you said Piloto. It's not just me who would like a quieter cabin, but my pax as well, including the rescue dogs I carry for delivery to new homes. (They won't wear the mutt muffs I got them). I fly WOT and 2400 for a noticably quieter cabin. Like it or not noise legislation is coming. Have you flown into Torrence? Santa Monica? Fail to pull back MP/RPM at 500' and you'll get a letter or worse. In Sugarbush, VT, a glider operator there has installed 4 bladed Hoffmann props on his L-19's to calm noise complaints from residents. What about the noise complaints stemming from the Grand Canyon tour operators ? The list goes on and on. Aircraft manufacturers are going to have to address the noise problem sooner or later. Before I spend 500k on my next airplane, you can bet cabin noise will be part of the equation.

Chuck, There is a paint that was designed for exactly what your looking for. It's called a paint crayon. It's an oil based paint that you can apply onto the switch lettering. Don't worry about smearing it onto the switch outside of the lettering. Then rub the switch face down onto a piece of clean paper placed on the edge of a table. Keep moving the switch face to a clean side of the paper until all the excess is removed from the unwanted parts . Only the recessed part of the switch will retain the paint. Let dry for a few days. It worked well on my switches, but because the plastic was worn on the switches used more often, there wasn't enough of a ridge to leave paint behind and most of it rubbed off. If you can feel the depression of the letters, you may well be a candidate for this type of restoration. I forgot where I bought the paint crayon, but it was mail ordered from an art supply house. Just google "paint crayon". Good luck, Bill

Okayyy....... Let me clarify. To all the pilots flying "N" registered airplanes flying under FAR's. An OAT gauge is NOT required. OR75-Yes, a clock is required.

As odd as it may be, a temperature gauge is NOT required for IFR flight.

Thanks Larry.

Where is the sonalert on a M20J....?

Yves, Love the dogs!!

Your welcome Anthony. And yes, my dog Kora is an Australian Heeler. Being from down under I thought you might pick that up..lol. I found her on a trip to Sydney when I was flying the 747's. I wasn't looking for a dog but a friend's dog had a litter and she wanted to find homes for them. When Kora came over and fell asleep on my foot, I had to have her. She got to ride home in the cockpit with me. Cheers, Bill & Kora

Hi Anthony, I'm not sure if your 205 is the same setup as my 201, but let's see. Open your cowl flaps. With a flashlight, look inside the cowl at the back of the landing light. There should be 3 phillips head screws, for adjusting aim, and 3 nuts with springs behind them, which hold the lamp in place, going around the outside of the light bezel. If this is how your airplane is configured then proceed as follows: 1) Remove the nuts and springs and washers. 2) Do NOT remove or unscrew the phillips head screws. These are for adjusting the aim of the landing light ONLY. 3) Remove the plexiglass cover on the front of your cowl covering the landing light. 4) Gently pull the landing light out from the front of the cowl. You should have enough room to remove the two wires with a slotted screwdriver. 5) Reinstall the new lamp in reverse order. An assistant is helpful to hold the lamp in place while reinstalling the washers, springs and nuts. (Install with the same tension on the springs as when removed.) A lot of people I know put the landing light in with the filament in a vertical position instead of the horizontal position most lights are installed in. It's suppose to stop the filament from an early demise from banging up and down when hot and shorting it out. I did this on mine. Time will tell.

PTK: I think it's a great idea. Good lighting in all enviroments is always a good thing. I was considering a taxi light where the ram air inlet was. A simple procedure. A little fiberglass work, some wiring and a new circuit breaker switch and your done.

According to AVweb news, Mooney has sold to a Chinese company. I guess the good news is production of new aircraft and parts will be beginning. Bad news is another company sold abroad.

You nailed that one N201MK! Well done.

Flyingvee201 - I just replaced the cowl mounted landing light on my 79 M20J. There are three screws and three nuts with springs like you said. I backed off the nuts with the springs and then adjusted the lamp position. The three adjust screws were frozen so I had to use plenty of solvent to free them. The nuts with the springs, which provide tension to hold the lamp in place, are then tightned. i don't tighten them too much. Just enough to hold the lamp in a snug fit. I have many seaplane friends here in Maine and the ALL orient the filament vertically. i did the same. Time will tell.

Thanks for all the work your doing Dave.