butchgilbert

The aluminum fuel selector valve turner is something we all would be interested in.

Byron, I have switched to a 406 MHz ELT. I had an ACK E-01 and bought the retrokit E-04 for a little over $500. Glad I did! Butch

I looked at many PA-46s and almost pulled the trigger on one, but since I am 6' 4" I couldn't sit in the seat comfortably, and the rudder pedals are not adjustable. The airplane must have been built by engineers who must have been under 5' 10"! Remember, in a Piper/Beech the spar traverses the cabin OVER the flooring, in a Mooney is goes under it. Very limited cockpit space in the Malibu/Mirage if you're tall. But having pressurization would be the way to go. IMHO. Butch

Thanks all of your inputs, I'm buying fine wire Tempest plugs at Osh Kosh this year!!

I was at Sun N Fun this week and talked to the Tempest Spark Plug rep. I haven't been happy with the service life or fouling of my massive REM38E Champion plugs and I am considering swapping them for fine wire Tempest plugs ('75 M20F, IO-360A1A). The Tempest rep says the fine wire plugs burn hotter, don't foul as easy, and are better for high altitude long range flights (I also have GAMIs and a JPI). They run $50 each, interested in everyone else's opinions and experiences. Thanks, N6902V.

Agree with DaV8or, check the limit switches, this happened to my flap motor a while back, easy fix if you can find it.

I have the same issue on my PAR 46 landing light as well, I was hoping regular use would keep the moisture out but it doesn't generate enough heat to do that.

Comatose, I found out last year that my mechanics had not done the 500 hour inspection on my Slick mags as well. I had over 700 hours of absolutely trouble free service from them. Then, I immediately ordered two new Slick mags, a new ignition harness, and new Champion spark plugs (although I hear the Champions are not that great). I take flight safety very seriously, you can have all kinds of inflight malfunctions, but FUEL, SPARK and AIR necessary for the engine and prop to rotate is not one that I care to experience. Am I over cautious, probably, it is also not the cheapest way to maintain and fly a Mooney, but I consider 500 hours on Slick mags TBO and replace when I hit that mark. Just my opinion, I may be wrong.

After seeing your pictures, I wouldn't do a thing. Although it is a cosmetic issue, since the airplane is stored outside, you may get it repaired and have another thunderstorm roll across the field the next day. I say live with it, and wait until the next paint job to repair, IMHO.

IMHO, there are as many (if not more) incidences of pilots running airplanes out of fuel inflight, those are the ones that really bother me.

Final analysis, spinner support successfully replaced, and adjusted idle mixture setting. I now have a super smooth running engine.

One last post: After cleaning and running up 6902V today with newly cleaned #2 cylinder spark plugs, during run up set rpm at 700 RPM and pulled mixture lever toward cutoff, RPM increased from 150-200 RPM, seems like a very rich idle mixture setting. Having it adjusted tomorrow. After shutdow, took the following pictures, you can see some plastic (probably a seal) protruding out from under the spinner in front of the prop blade. NOT HAPPY!! More later. Again, thanks for all the assistance

Will do, what spark plug manufacturer and type (have always used Champion massives) would you recommend? I have never gotten very long service out of Champion plugs.

Flew today, on initial run-up, #2 lower cyl spark was fouled pretty bad. Was able to clear it and fly, but it sure seems that the spark plug (new last year) is the real source of the trouble. Inflight very smooth and all EGT's were within 30-40 degrees. Goes to show you that you really need to fly these airplanes as often as possible. In my almost 13 years of owning this airplane, I can't remember not flying for as long a period of time as just recently due to a back injury. Thanks again for all your inputs.

ELT, I had a similar situation (large crack below #2 cylinder, this is where they normally crack). I was hesitant to do the overhaul, but I am sure glad I did, I fell in love the airplane all over again, because it was SAFE. I had Zephyrhills (I live in Tampa) do the overhaul. After 18 years of faithful service, if you still want to fly, get the engine overhauled. You'll be glad you did, except when the bill comes due. Not to make things worse, but if you do the overhaul, take the time and do he prop as well, include the prop governor as well, that way no matter what else fails in the future, you'll have confidence in the engine and prop to get you home safe. Good luck.

Thanks everyone for your advice, I will check with my FBO MX guys to take a look at the engine, an induction leak sounds plausible. However, I am definitely going to have the mag timing checked (I think 25 degrees BTDC is correct), the mags are virtually brand new last summer. I do get about 100 RPM drop on one side and about 50 on the other side, have not noticed any problems, and like I said the JPI shows every cylinder running about where I would expect them to. I also thought it could be a prop imbalance, but I had no problems after the November 2011 annual, just after being stuck on the ground for about a month. Thanks again for your suggestions. Butch

Was out sick for month, finally went flying today, and on taxi in the engine seemed to run rough and vibration on the ground during taxi seemed rougher than normal. JPI was absolutely normal entire flight. Rpm above 1200 seemed normal as well, run up normal. M20F, IO360 A1A 1975 Mooney Executive. Any thoughts? Was thinking it could be a stuck valve??

Just replaced my ACK E-01 with an E-04 Retro Kit from Aircraft Spruce ($540), I could have replaced it myself but let my avionics shop do it. Glad I did, I fly alot in south Florida and the Keys, I want them to find me if I go down.

For $10 you can buy an altitude reminder from Sporty's. i just used some velcro on the glare shield to fasten it, then everytime I get an altitude change I set the Aspen's Altitude bug AND the Sporty's, if they're different something is wrong. IMHO

Just my $.02, I would bet that the solenoid you have installed is dead or dying. My solenoid was acting up and not putting enough juice to engage the starter (makes a lot of noise and no rotation). When I changed the solenoid, no problems either cold or hot for years. Worth checking out, solenoids are not that expensive.

I don't know for sure if the PAR 46 will work on an E model Mooney, but I would be willing to bet it would. Measure the diameter of your landing light and then call Whelen. The light sits in a riveted bracket, the only way to replace the bulb is to remove the front bracket. It only has 4 small screws, even I could do it. Definitely worth the effort.

On a Vintage (older) Mooney, just like mine, I believe you definitely have vacuum problem. You need to find a skilled Mooney mechanic who has the knowledge to track down the leaks in the system and seal them up. It the vacuum lines are cracked or broken (or even disconnected like mine), they'll need to be repaired/replaced. The bad news is that the bellows in the wings are probably rotted and needed to be replaced as well (they move the ailerons to turn the airplane). The good news is the Brittain is alive and well in Ada, Ok. Google Brittain and contact them once the system has been troubleshot by a good Mooney mechanic. Good luck.

I went with the Sidewinder like DaV8or, it works great and is easy to use. IMHO.