jetdriven

Same as my J, either URHM38S or UREM38S. the first is 3/4-20 threads and the second is 5/8-24. My J took the UREM38s.

We financed ours for 4% less than 1st bank of Pryor. I hear stories about how good they are, but our credit union was a lot less. I dont think 11% APR is competitve these days. I have credt cards lower.

Lood I would fly it at 5000 DA. Just run it 125 ROP at pattern altitude. 4-5 hours of that or two tanks the rings wil be seated. Just take the maximum cylinder pressure you can make.

I know this, we flew 40 LOP and averaged 145 KT TAS burning 8.3 GPH (62% power) and flew 310 NM and burned 19 GAL. THis includes the 15 GPH, 250 ROP climb at 120 KT IAS. LOP is old technique from the radial airliner days and only since 3-4-5$ avgas, has got a lot of interest lately. I am a big proponent of it, as is Shadrach and others. The cocept of WOT and LOP until downwind is strange to the uninitiated and is not printed in the POH (Although Lycoming recommends peak at 75% or below, so LOP is still cooler than that). We save around 1.5 GPH to 2 GPH. Less lead in the oil and on the valve guides. Avgas being what it is, we save 8-16$ an hour. "Free engine reserve, just run LOP"

Those break in procedures from Lycoming are pretty much IMHO spot on. Limit ground running time and fly it at 75% power for the first 50 hours, or till oil consumption stabillizes. Keep CHT under 400.

Except the government mandate of 10% ethanol in auto fuel to, ahem, "reduce our dependence on foreign oil" (ridiculous claim) . Of course, this completely kills any ability ot use it as aviation fuel.

give it 100 hours to stabilize.

you can follow the POH, but that was based on current thinking in 1976.

The IO-360-A TCDS lists the minimum safe oil quantity as 2 Qts. We put in 5 at the last change and ran it a few minutes and it wouldnt show on the dipstick.

there is a 500 hour AD on these mags. The dual drive magneto ios one of those things I am surprised ever got certified. One nut and a star washer is all that separates you from the ground. EDIT: Its two nuts and two star washers. Still a single drive though.

It all depends on your mechanical ability. I lucked out and we found an IA who letds me work supervised in his shop. I have done 5 or 6 pages of log entries, new GPSs, replaced some bad instruments, antennas, spark plugs, alternator, weight and balance, etc etc etc. Point is, this stuff is simple to me and its rather easy. If you are not mechanically inclined, you need to pay someone. I have heard and talked with other Mooney heads, and 1500-2000$ is the average cost for a base annual. Deferred repairs and upgrades are extra. I am doing much of the work myself, and we fix things during the year, so ours may be less.

Lycoming has a formula and for the IO-360 and its ,64 QT/HR before something must be done. 6-10 hours per quart is fine. Oil isnt that expensive. If you are using 1 quart in 50 hours start budgeting for a top overhaul, because the rings arent passing enough oil. You are going to wear the tiop of the bore out. Airplane engines are purposely set up loose, because they are air cooled and they have a large temperature range to operate in. 2500 RPM cruise will use more oil. Also, oil on the bely isnt burned oil, its blown out so don't count that.

201er, RJ, you both are right. I have found that MP below 17" is pretty much useless. The difference between 16" and 15" depends on density altitude, piston ring sealing, etc. It is also a large change, But 1800 or 2000 RPM to land on the guage always works. The 201 has a rather unique characteristic, below 110~MPH or so, the prop is on the low pitch stop and it "is" a fixed pitch prop. So in that range, treat it like one.

also ask LASAR. if its just the seal and its dry inside, Id change the seal. The 500 hour mag inspection is mostly an overhaul anyways, isnt it? That thing can kill you though, so be careful and replace the hold-down with the improved style and replace the nut and washer every time it is loosened.

I think he is talking about the Bendix D2000 series dual mag. I hear those are a nightmare to work on.

We fill at 5 and add one quart to make 6. For a really long flight, fill to maybe 6.5 quarts. Regardless, we don't let it get below 5.

Its 14.9. We have the same angle valve IO-360-A3B6D you do. Adding RPM yes does increase % of power but 2500 RPM is a good cruise RPM. 2700 gives you a couple knots but more fuel flow. At 10,000' that 2700 RPM is useful. We were logging different RPM's at cruise vs. IAS to see what the real world values for our plane were. (6500') You will be limited on the lean end by slow airspeed, and on the rich end by CHT. You could simply richen to 380 and take what you get. IN our case, today it was 40 LOP.

You wont be able to develop 2700 RPM until around 80 knots with the McCauley prop.

you are over thinking the problem. It takes ~15" MP and in our J, the prop is still at 2200 RPM when descending for landing. Use the power it takes to maintain a 3:1 glide ratio. It should be above that yellow arc.

Joined: Jun 15, 2011 Posts: 14 Location: New York NY Re: What CHT requires cowl flaps in cruise? Posted Jun 19, 2011 11:15 PM I'd like to thank everyone for their advice. I flew again today and tried some more LOP stuff (right now just playing with things and getting a feel for leaning and the plane since I just got it recently). I'll read the articles again cause after the tests I've done recently, they may apply to me afterall. When I read them, I didn't take them too seriously because I didn't think I could fly her Lean of Peak. Here's what I got today: 3000ft, 26", 2600RPM, 150ktas, 45LOP, 367CHT (hottest cylinder, others were near 340), 9.7GPH. What my %HP was I have no idea, but I'm guessing 75% based on what you guys tell me with FF. Let me add that density altitude was more like 4500ft. FF (GPH) X 14.9= crankshaft horsepower. 9.7 GPH is 144 HP or 72%. 72% to the airframe is 72%. Here's the procedure I used to lean. Leveled off, left throttle full but pulled prop back to 2400RPM. I leaned mixture a reasonable ballpark toward peak. I set EDM700 for LOP and continued leaning through peak and until richest cylinder peaked. Then I continued leaning to 50LOP. I went past to test for roughness which occured by around 60LOP so I went back in to about 45-50LOP on richest cylinder. Fuel flow was reading about 8.5gph so I added RPM until I was close to 10GPH in hopes of achieving 75%. Then I closed the cowl flaps and was pretty happy the hot cylinder stayed below 380F. Here's a glimpse at the EGTs for all cyldiners at one moment after leaning: 1390, 1328, 1395, 1377. Peak was 1440. Should I be concerned about #2 running a lot leaner if engine isn't running rough? Am I doing things right? What am I at risk of screwing up if this is done incorrectly? Can I get any more speed out of her? Your procedure is basically corrrect. Richest cylinder is the last one to peak. Lean to LOP from this cylinder. Changine RPM changes fuel flow, and your degrees from peak probably will change. Re-lean. As I have learned, leaning past 50 LOP is less efficient and much slower. Most benefit is from peak to 40 LOP. EGT numbers mean nothing. The value they are in relation to peak is all that matters. If #2 is leaner than the otehrs whle LOP is no problem. Above 6000-8000' you rapidly paint yourself into a corner while LOP, meaning you end up only being able to produce 55-65% power. Speed suffers and peak or ROP might be more beneficial. A rough rule of thumb is LOP, you can add 2" of manifold pressure to the book charts for the same percentage of power. IE 23" and 2500 RPM ROP is 65% power, it takes 25" to make that 65% power if LOP. Your goal is peak to 40 LOP on your richest cylinder, 75% power or below, smooth engine, and no CHT over 380. 360 is preferrable. Do NOT exceed 400 degrees CHT on any cylinder. I am in the camp that you are not harming anything in that regime. That is peak BSFC and near the best efficiency and cost per mile. Our plane this weekend ran 380 CHT (#4), 40 LOP, 6500' altitude, 65 degrees temp, 2500 RPM, full throttle, and 141 MIAS. ff was 8.4 GPH, so ~62% power. New baffle seals go in this week. I'd like to run a little richer, with cooler CHT and a little more speed. If you cannot satisfy all these parameters, go to 75-100 ROP, richen to cool and later investigate why not. UPDATE: 40-50 LOP is the lean end of the range. Best BSFC is arund 15-40 LOP. Our newest procedure is 15-20 LOP.

My wife have done 187 MPH calculated on an air race course at 1000' and a 75 degree day. IAS was 185 MPH, and I would guess TAS around 190. This a a 5000 hour airframe, 1300 hour engine, not rigged perfect, droopy nose gear doors, and a couple extra antennas. We generally get 155 KTAS at 75% power, around 140-145 at 65% power.

The cowl flap linkage closes over center. Here are the rigging instructions from the SMM.

Mooney S.I. M-20-114 says to only lift any Mooney prior to the M20L by the engine lift point. They say to "do not" lift the nose by a propeller jack, and they do not recommend using the tail tie down point to raise the nose. here it is: http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/si-pdf/m20-114.pdf

Agree with KSMooniac. 25 ROP is right square in the middle of the "red box" taught by Deakin and the folks at APS. Thats the last place you want to be. Its just about at hot from 50 ROP to 10 LOP the curve is pretty flat there. Figure out why you can't run LOP and fix it. Its costing you 1-2 GPH. Either run 10-50 LOP, or 75 ROP at 75% power. At 65% power you can run at peak. If you can't, check bafflling and injectors. CHT at 65% power will be lower that at 75% power. The airspeed isnt all that much less, maybe 10 knots. but heat is less. Ours at 50% power are in the high 200s to 320. 65%, 350. 75% is 360-370. We can gain 20 degrees from new baffle seals, they go in this weekend.

Do not lift it by the prop. Lift the nose with a short length of chain attached to the lifting eye on the crankcase with a cherry picker. RSC rental places and the like rent them to pull car engines with. Truly, it is easier to anchor the tail tie down with a bucket ful of 300 lbs of cement that has a chain or pipe and linch pin attached to it. Mooney doesnt prohibit that they, just discourage that. As long as you are careful its fine. But lifting the prop with a saddle and a jack is bad.