jetdriven

How is an autopilot installation a minor alteration?

The CGR does not have more functionality or is better than a Garmin 275. For one thing it’s not touchscreen, for two it has this knob you have to select between four pages to see everything. And three it doesn’t even display all of the primary information on the page, you have to look at page 2 to see amps or oil temperature or whatever it is that you selected there. EI said it couldn’t be done, but Garmin has it.

If you were gonna do that, you should just put a Bendix 1200 in the same hole and run that. But no STC is gonna specify some other manufacturers hardware.

Those Carling switches are fragile and they break, plus every one of those switches requires a circuit breaker, annd most airplanes that don’t have enough room for circuit breakers as it is.

We had two Bendix’s 1200 magneto‘s for years. With the electro air, when you switch off the Bendix, it slows down about 1 mph, and when you switch off the electroair, it slows down about 2 1/2 to 3 mph. That’s about the only change I can tell.

You can’t remove a roller lifter from a Lycoming without splitting the case.

It needs to be installed properly, I have an electro air on my plane and I have a BX 1200 magneto, but it’s very marginally better than the 1200 Bendix magneto. It does run warmer, it doesn’t start or any faster nor idle any better. I don’t really get the dual installation. It’s probably $9000 by the time it’s completely installed with all the labor, and then you have to have a separate battery pack, and I see the small benefit with one of these, but two of them there’s nothing additional. And you’re replacing a pretty robust and reliable, dual magneto for something that’s way more complex and although it doesn’t have any single failure points, like the Bendix dual magneto does, it can still leave you stranded a lot easier and probably more likely. I’m not sure how long that backup battery lasts, but when that goes dead, the engine stops running. I kinda like the idea of something that makes its own electricity.

They often don’t seat properly and then they use a lot of oil and they run hot. And then often times, by the time you get to 1500 hours or even 1000 hours, they polish iut smooth and start to use even more oil so I’m not so convinced they’re a good fit for Mooney especially. The ones selling chrome and nickel plating. Options are the ones who were taking cylinders worn out past standard boar and then re-roaming them or nickel, plating them back down to standard size. But that sounds like a solution looking for a problem. It may not be the solution you’re looking for.

DLC coating has come on all Lycoming engine lifters that they ship now, as far as I know

Donaldson

We sent the whole top end of our engine off to Ly-con to have it ported and Cryo treated and everything else they would offer for those, its probably 2kt. faster. 5-8hp perhaps. We did also have the Alodine cylinder heads with a black barrels, and we painted the black barrels ourselves of Cerakote.

I’ve had this happen to my legacy 750 a couple of times and if you pull both the com one and NAV one breaker and then reset them that will free that up. It will Reboot the unit. It’s not guaranteed to fix it, but mostly it takes care of it. But I’m with you, I would need a second NAV and com, and if you really want to cut cost just a second NAV, com is a luxury, but you need to have a second way to get out of the clouds if your navigator goes TU.

I have a ballast for one if you want to try it

But the prices have gone up 40% since pre-Covid so I’m not totally sold on this. I guess when the door seal gets to be $500 we can talk about it again. All of the price increases by the Hartzell family of companies (Arcline) was not related to supply and demand.

Stainless screws tend to gall and seize up in the nut plate and then break off and then you have one heck of a problem. We just started using more and more cad plates steel fasteners, which don’t do this nearly as often. Spinner screws in M20Js are another notable example.

Because I broke yours and I ate the cost of the 2 Rpm version before I figured out I bought the wrong one, and then I ate the cost of the other one. So I’m pretty well-versed.

There was a one Rpm version and a two Rpm version. And if you buy the 2 Rpm version, the cowl flap will blow open or closed because the air pressure drives the motor through the gear train. So get the right one.

here are some of those photos from august 2013. As ive learned, some 1/2" tall and 1" wide blue foam with this work over it would be much stronger. We built a 3/8" high stiffener from carbon fiber strips. My PA28-1981 Archer has this scheme. The inside of the top cowl has some 1" tall foam shaped into a half moon. With fiberglass over that. Its not cracked.

i put a 1.5" wide strip of unidirectional carbon fiber tape on the lower cowl to replace the aluminum 90 degree stiffener that was riveted into the cowl just forward of the cowl flaps. it was springy and flexible like gluing a fishing rod into the cowl there. I suppose you need the bidirectional cloth and the foam for a square-ish shape to provide real stiffness. We used 10K and 12K cloth for this reinforcement and you can put 80 lbs of force on the top cowl in the middle without any visible deflection.

I ended up removing the honeycomb that was in the section of the spinner hump in about an inch or two on either side of that. We thought that we could stack up 1 inch wide layers of carbon, but looking back I think the better way to do it is to put a piece of foam, blue foam in that area, but make it taller than the factory did, say a half inch or 3/4 of an inch instead of the factory 1/4 inch. Then vacuum bag over that you have a real beam.

I would recommend putting some trapezoidal shaped blue foam as a stiffener maybe just after of what’s there for factory …..make it an inch wide then half an inch tall. Then when you vacuum bag your carbon over that, it acts more like a beam. Mine has held up well but it has one crack along the left side of the spinner about 4 inches long but this is after 800 hours of flying or more actually.

2/3 of the airplanes for clients don’t even make it to the shop for a PPI because there’s so many glaring things wrong in the history. Fishy Shadetree overhauls from 25 years ago and then a top with Gibson chrome cylinders half halfway between now and then., For example. But if you get past that you need to spend 15 hours looking at it. And anything that gets missed, the buyer owns. There is no upper limit to what this might cost. I have a landing gear actuator at Lasar right now with a bent jackscrew and it’s chattering on the down stroke. It’s gonna cost $4000 to get this thing out of the shop. And that’s just to fix the actuator that we already have. That’s not even replacing in the back spring. That would be two grand more.

Why did it get stuck in the full up position? And why was the trim on the full up stop to begin with?

Inner tube bandit struck again yesterday morning. My IA went out to go do a flying lesson in this Cherokee 180, nose tire was flat. When they pulled the tube out, it was all folded over like it had been reused two or three times.

You can call them, but they only want to work on their own flight school planes, if you offer to lease it back to them then they may take a look at it. It seems to be the newest thing, thr airport sponsor is required to offer maintenance as a Grant assurance, but they get some flight school in there that takes over the maintenance shop and then, although they give the appearance of holding out to the public, they will not work on other planes besides theirs