jetdriven

The new Mooneys in Oshkosh a couple years ago looked like there was sprayed with Featherfill and blocked off somewhat and then painted, but that stuff shrinks over the rivet dimples and it just looks like it was vinyl wrapped. Featherfill is, basically liquid Bondo from a spray gun, but it still shrinks over the period of about 65 years.

The 252s have two impulse mags, and they both start the engine. But the left magneto on these things is hellishly impossible to get on and off, so we put the Surefly on the right side. We generally try to leave the impulse mag on the engine and then install the Surefly and then do the ground strap mod.

The Pilot adjustment will only do a 10 or 15% adjustment. It sounds like they won't have the wrong K-factor. Have them use the table 5-26 to select the right FF transducer. if they cant find it, double the K-factor you have to start.

It took us 30 hours to install a single electroair. It was not the first one we’ve done. There’s a lot of wiring, you have to find a unique place for the coil, then you need to route all of the proper wires to the bottom plugs on the top. We picked the top so that the high tension leads would be separated from everything else, then we put the controller underneath the copilots seat and ran the manifold pressure and the wiring down to that then it has to go over to the Pilot side and then up behind the panel to the switch and then through the firewall. The dual system you have to have the crank trigger a separate coil pack of reserve, backup battery, and then it’s damn near impossible to the high tension wires to the other set of spark plugs without coming within 3 inches of any wiring. All of your engine monitor wiring for example, it is going to be in that same area.

Yes, I’ve never seen one of those either. It would have to be 300 Amps in order having enough headroom not to surge and trip. . But where do you put a 300 amp breaker. In IA class last week actually they said that’s the only circuit in the aircraft not required to have circuit protection was the starter.

There is a dual electroair, but for the 13k all in cost, spend that extra money towards a more standard engine with a roller cam.

Is there a starter fuse? It would have to be a few hundred amps.

you can find all of the parts and everything for the instructions in the io390 STC that was developed by G&N. But it’s fairly simple, use the new governor arm and the clamps that hold it to the prop governor cable. There is a fairly simple arm that you screwed to the governor to attach the rod to it, in my case, two of them made of aluminum broke so I made one of steel and I haven’t had a problem since. In my case, the fixed part of the cable was too long and I had to scab on an additional piece to the end of the bracket so that I could clamp it, but then you couldn’t put it vertically because it would hit the cowling, so I have kind of a bastardized configuration. The hoses are a different length, I’ve posted the whole kit of that before. Any hose kit you order from the Internet is likely to be wrong, and at 200 bucks a hose, you want it deadass.

Paint a small square to show where the ice is, but anytime you paint the leading edge of a Mooney wing you’re going to trip the laminar flow right there at the paint edge, and it’s real. The also, a lot harder to touch up because it’s going to take bugs and stone chips and things like that and then you’ll have a little white spots where the white base coat underneath of the shining through the dark.

Ours is similar, and it would match any exterior scheme.

Where is the 8130-3. Yellow tags are obsolete.

Still no auto trim. Half cup of tea for half price. Was considering it for a Cherokee 180 but I don’t think it’s all that capable even for that kind of plane.

You guys are acting like the yellow arc, the wings are gonna fall off. As long as it’s not seriously moderate or severe turbulence, it’s fine. There was a salvage Mooney M20k for bid about 10 years ago, and it looked pretty good till you looked up close, and the wings were bent upwards about a foot on each side, and even the fuselage was bent down in the middle so much that you could put your thumb between the baggage door and the frame with it closed. And then I looked up the NTSB report on this thing and the guy flew through Mountain wave that was so strong it was plus and minus 10 Gs rapidly back-and-forth, the factory estimated. The guy even flew to destination and landed before he figured it out how bad it was.

But lowering the RPM reduces horsepower more than the recovery from having the optimal cylinder pressure at the optimal crank angle.

With a client with a M20J have a porpoised bad landing, and then she did a go around and it did curl both prop tips, similar to the same kind of damage that occurred here. But when we took the prop off the airplane, it actually flexed the prop blades in the hub enough to dislodge the snap ring out of it, and the prop blade was loose in the hub. She could’ve been killed.

Thats why a prebuy and an annual are not the same. You should spend more time looking for corrosion and damage and skip the servicing. Since most people are not following the factory checklist, and not looking at it too in depth, this stuff gets missed.

T-9088 was for later airplanes. It is a P shaped seal. The correct seal for earlier planes is the BA-1706M which Brown stopped offering and the factory only makes infrequently. We have the Gee Bee seal on our plane and although it works for us it’s not easy to install and I’m not sure how many times you have to reposition it to get the door to close and still also seal. We got lucky the first time. We have since stopped installing non-factory seals because we end up with low customer satisfaction and we spend 8 hours doing a job that we bill the customer 3 for, and they’re still not happy.

I think it's more of the efficiency of the prop, but when the plane slows down 6 kn between 2500 and 2700 RPM, and the fuel flow only goes down .3, you can see it. And at 14,000 feet, the airplane slows down 10 kn in turbulence, and the speed at 2400 RPM takes two minutes to recover whereas at 2700 RPM takes 30 seconds. So your average ground speed is just higher. And really you don't have enough horsepower above 10,000 feet anyway, 2700 just gives you more of the 100 HP available. We've done it several times actually..... if you get up to 10,000 feet, and then set it up however you like at 2400 RPM, and look at your JPI fuel and time to destination, and then bring it up to 2700, and then re-lean for best power or slightly lean of that, the fuel at destination often is the same and sometimes less, but the time is always less.

Actually, the miles per gallon goes up, the total trip burn goes down, and the trip time goes down as well.

General the Mooney airplane is slower the higher you go. It seems to not matter much between 3000 and 7000 feet but it’s definitely slower above that. Here’s a real 203 miles an hour true (176kt) in a J model but look at the altitude.

Here’s 2650 rpm and 160 ktas at 2650 rpm. 10GPH that’s just rich of peak.

Your plane would be not just faster but also more efficient at 2500 or even 2600 RPM.

We are an authorized reseller and installer of Surefly, and we’ve probably done about 12 of them at this point. No failures. We had trouble with one that somebody had installed before we connected with the client, it was a very early version 28 V. It would randomly stumble or shut off after flying for a while and I called them up and Just leveled with them and said send me a new unit so I can get this guy out the door and they did, and that was two years ago. He is still going fine. We had another one where It would not work, it wouldn’t power up to time properly. As it turns out, the surefly grounds to the engine and they powder coat the whole case of it and on this B36TC airplane, we had to run a separate wire from the surefly to the case and then it worked fine. That took a while to understand what was happening, so I would probably sand some of the powder coat off under the magneto clamp so that you have a sure fire ground on an IO550. He previously had two slick magneto’s and the TSIO520UB would not run lean of peak at all. And he probably spent a few thousand dollars chasing down induction leaks and GAMI injector tuning and everything else you can imagine. But since we installed the Surefly, along with a set of fine wire plugs, he’s been blown away. So they don’t advertise a performance increase, but I think it’s there.

Mooney did change the design of later bravo airplanes, and I think earlier ones were modified, they put a heat shield between the turbo and the firewall, and they rerouted the brake line tubing away from the area directly behind the firewall. That famous crash was because the outlet of the turbo torched a hole in the firewall, and then melted some plastic tubing that had brake fluid That would empty from the reservoir and feed the fire. Pretty much worst case.

I've got a serviceable Dukes actuator here. It came out of my plane because I converted to the newer style. The Ovation-style retrofit interior and the side crank dont really go together.