WilliamR

Thanks! As lubing the pins is the easiest option. I'll try that first. Hoping to break from work one night in the next week and mess with this. I'm confident my pins are not lubricated since I've had the plane 20 years and never lubed the pins. Always latched easily. Stick ordered. Already have the silicon grease, but a good reminder I need to apply it. William

Thanks

@Marc_B thanks for the very good detail. We are using the same seal. The tightness is on both doors. I don't think the top clamp is the problem on the cabin door as I can tell on both doors the pins are hard to engage in the holes. The doors are flush with the airframe as they were before. Now, just very tight. On an early fitting, I did notice the bulb was squishing out of the frame causing binding, but that was corrected. Also on an early fitting I came to the conclusion that as you noted, the seal for the baggage door near the hinge kind of straddles the door frame edge. The paper strip trick is a good idea and will do that. Looking again at your pics, my bulb is just about as close to the edge "unsquished" than yours that is "squished". So, maybe I need to go just a little further inboard on the doors. Let my try once more and will follow up with pics if I continue to have problems. Not sure where Gee Bee's comment is coming from as I'm not dissatisfied with what I received. I'm just trying to perfect the install. I paid at the time of my order. So, @Gee Bee Aeroproducts if there was some problem with my payment, please let me know and I can get my bank to find out what the problem is. You may contact me at the e-mail from which I placed my order to sort that out. Again, I appreciate the help. William

Used the thin walled one as Gee Bee noted which is the far right one in the pic he provided of the three seals. I'll try stretching it. Thanks

@Marc_B, Thanks for the detailed writeup and pics. Wish I thought of the plastic sheeting. I'm usually smarter than that. In any case, I also used Gee Bee's new seal, but am looking for some advice. I did not "stretch" the seal at all at installation. I did install the bulb part exactly as you have it in your posts and in the post Gee Bee Aero shows. The seal is very good...too good, actually. Both doors are very, very tight to close. Do you think stretching it would help? @Gee Bee Aeroproducts, any advice? Thanks, William

The same service is also provided by Sirius for marine for $17.99. Not that I would ever advocate lying to Sirius.

With a 360-sb, My LOP ops and temps are generally the same as OPs. ROP, at 28" and 2500 RPM (~75%) flying in the teens, at 13.7-13.8 gph, I see TIT low 1500's, ~100-120F ROP, and CHT just under 380 on the hottest (#5) with temps ISA +10 to 20C. My baffling is exceptionally tight. Cowl flap fully closed. No GAMIs.

$85,224.00 with a core credit of $19,000.00. Delivery charge was ~$1,100.00. My core was accepted. So, no additional $19,000 charge. During that time they would occasionally run specials that they would accept any core in any condition. So, I wasn't really worried Airpower would try to gig me on the core.

I ordered a factory reman'd TSIO-360-sb from Airpower right at 26 mos. ago (a lifetime ago when concerned about supply chain issues). It was promised in 4-6 months and received in about 5. I contacted several overhaul shops including Zephyr, Gann, Western, and Pinnacle to name a few. They were all running about 6 mos. and provided similar warranties as the factory reman. None of the overhaul shops would commit to timing on the accessories, however. Price was also hard to compare. None of the overhaul shops would price out a full kit of accessories which the factory reman provides including exhaust. However, chasing down some accessory costs, I found the difference in price between full kit overhaul and factory reman to be within ~10% of each other. I had neither the time or patience to chase around a half dozen accessory sellers/overhaulers. In my case, I found the market to be very efficient. Sounds like the market really hasn't changed in the last 2 years. William

MY GP shows ADSB traffic on both VFR (sectionals) and IFR (enroute) charts. I used to trace my taxi clearance on the taxi diagram and then my georef'ed plan follows the red tracing both in FF and GP. On GP with the addition of smart charts that is no longer workable. The smart taxi chart is georeferenced but you can write on it. The gv't taxi chart you can write on but it's not georef'ed. Anybody find a way around this? What am I doing wrong? William

I would not say doing work without owner authorization or not even trying to discuss annual inspection findings despite the owner asking is good communication. Ignoring e-mails after asking for an update every couple of weeks I would not consider good communication either, but that's just me. I've never had a shop mess so many things up in my 38 years in GA and 20+ years of aircraft ownership ($5,000+ worth). Got to the point they would fix one thing and break another and not without some push back. After a couple days of that I run out of patience. Happy to provide my e-mails with them (phone calls were rarely returned) on my encore conversion. It is eye opening. P.S. Do they own the zip tie company? Never seen so many in my life. Zip ties on intake tubes, zip ties on engine mounts, zip ties everywhere! Oh, and someone should buy them a label maker. Circuit breaker labels hand written on masking tape is weak. I'm fancy like that, though. Ha!

Here are two pics where the line comes from the separator side of the baffle. As I remembered, there is a nipple towards the bottom of the oil fill tube that the side line connects to. The nipple points outboard. Hope this helps. See the mediocre pics. The pic of the oil separator wasn't the best since the #2 alternator was in the way so I didn't include it, but it's exactly like the one pictured in this forum, tube out the bottom and another out the side towards the bottom. Got it on the owner. Anything for an Eagle driver...even the family model. Best, William

I would have thought it was in the engine IPC where the small "side" tube goes. Clearly, I'm wrong there. Going from memory on a TSIO-360-mb (and I think its the same on the -SB; have to check) the small "side" line goes to the oil fill tube which is right there on the other side of the baffle. Guess I need to reacquaint next time I go to the hangar on my -SB. I'll try to take a break tonight and snap a pic or two. Rags, I think we've met before. You fly for NJ, and flew F15's right? William

So very lucky from what I assume was very quick action to shut the engine down. I was acquainted with two pilots in separate similar incidents that perished. Both on takeoff. One was a partial blade separation and the other was a full blade separation. Neither plane traveled more than 0.5 miles before crashing. First was fatigue on a fixed pitch prop. The second was improper prop maintenance on a constant speed. William

I've witnessed that exact same rip in the exact same place on a Mooney. The one I saw was due to something caught in the bottom on the door (think headset cord). Door was then closed on the cord which flexed the door to slip tight to the skin and maybe a little under. There was no issue or tightness closing the door. Door was a bit hard to openand was then forced open slightly and "pop", skin is ripped. It was clearly apparent the door was jammed a little only when trying to reopen. The pilot was surprised the skin ripped so easily rather than either the fuselage skin or the door just giving a little. Lots of ways to fix it given the non-structural nature. The repaired rip mocks the owner every time they are entering the cabin. William