OR75

on the initial topic: a key requirement for an autopilot to be approved is the need for manual overide . if the button where to "click" , the click mechanism would break each time the AP is overiden. the buttons are held magnetically . the overide results in overcoming the magnetic force that is keeping the buttons engaged.

You can google search the century IIB service manual and the procedure is described in one of the chapter. It involves having access to the back of the coupler ( need to remove dashboard) The adjustment is done by removing the front of the console ( use Allen wrench to remove the knob). And use a small screwdriver to make adjustments. If you cannot locate the manual, let me know and I can email you the pages

I thought airpower had non-D engine in stock They had 3 a few weeks ago Not sure what turnover can be on those. Just out of curiosity, do they honor the price they advertise ? Or is it like in shoes stores sales where the price applies to the only pair left which is size 14.5 and purple color ?

wondering what made you go that route (direct the OEM) instead of just swapping the engine with a distributor (like Airpower or others) who have the non-D in stock Are they keeping some of the components of your D engine ? Did you get the needed brackets (there are 2 of them required for the governor). Also, I believe you will need a new hose (the one that go to the oil cooler)

are you going from an A3B6D to an A3B6 or was it already a non-D engine ?

on the plus side , it may be best that all are gone than just one. it is likely just a loose or broken power wire. I don't believe the instrument cluster is fuse or circuit breaker protected. it should be connected directly to the battery bus.

wondering what folks who installed an Insight G or JPI CHT engine monitor do with the stock CHT probe/ indicator. if you installed a 4 cylinders CHT monitor, what can you do with the CHT in the cluster ? i hate to see an instrument inop. covering it would not look too great either. Can you keep the stock CHT (#3 cylinder) and add 4 CHT probes ?

easiest is to remove the passenger seat to be able to look from under the panel. look for a Canon type of plug. it will be an OECO VR if the plug is made of metal, or a mooney part if it is made of plastic . it is a pain to get to and even more painful to put back ( hence the tywraping to the side wall)

actually the G1000 is a different beast since apparently its upgrade to WAAS is $$$. Or I should say $$$$$. A very different platform moving forward. for ipad upgrade, we are talking $$$ ( less than an amu)

the KA-44 goes with KR-87 the KA-42 goes with the KR-85 and 86 i believe you could modify to be able to use but really not worth it

you have a 530W .... get a GDL 88 to get weather and you are done. keep a handheld for simple GPS position backup and sell the rest of hardware on ebay tech will always be a moving target .... my ipad 3 will probably be obsolete sooner rather than later

I am not decided. but thinking that an article on what it takes to convert would be great. ( brackets, hoses, governor, timing, ....). I actually have the answer to most questions as the topic has been covered in several places on this forum . But a good recap would be great. As far as ignition system, I am undecided: Bendix Slick Electroair

i did not think you had to go with Slick when you convert

Snohomish (PAE) is a sloa good option You can visit the Boeing museum and actual production line on the field

Jacks are on the armrests and wires are simply pulled behind the side panels. Easy wiring jobs . Most difficult will be to remove seats, side panels without cracking any of the brittle material.

Suggestion for future topics: The ins and out of converting from an IO-360-A3B6D to A3B6 Mooney's lubrication

i replaced my old cable tach with an electric needle UMA tach with bendix mag pickup I prefer the needle classic type display ( rather than the EI led) . Nice and rather unusual to have different quality options for a replacement part for a Mooney !!!

paint remover to remove the old wing walk fine sand paper to remove any corrosion patches spray Zinc chromate apply wing walk compound. 1 layer should suffice. Really the most difficult part will be to protect the non walk area with paint tape. and as mentioned somewhere above, make sure you stir the pot really well as the grit tend to settle. use a long screwdriver or steel rod to scrape the bottom of the pot and make sure the grit is in suspension. do yourself a favor and do not patch the current wing walk. very easy and fun job. tools and products needed: wing walk randolph paint remover ( home depot) zinc chromate spray plastic and/or metal spatula to scrape old paint plastic sheet to protect plane from spray fine sand paper paint tape

A prop at idle will be like a speed brake. Stay in the white arc 90 or less , and @ 200 ft , plenty of room to slow and touch in the touchdown zone

In the ideal case when ATC gives you enough time to level off below the GS ... Reduce power / speed below gear down speed limit ... Put gear down at GS intercept. Reduce power speed when getting close to DH All runways with ILS will be long / wide enough for a no flap landing I believe the FAA has minimum length / width requirements for a runway to be ILS eligible . I cannot remember what those are.

Not sure there is a speed penalty because of the ram air hole . The hole is close enough to the prop that the flow is unlikely to be laminar in that area even if the area was smooth.

On a 77J: I see 1/3 to 1/2 in of MP @ 8000ft Not sure I would install it if an STC was available (I bet the STC would be $$$) but since it is there , I won't remove it

Thanks Trek. That's very helpful and goes a long way into avoiding wrong ideas to propagate. Please just keep the footprint of the antenna the same ! Thanks in advance for that !

The first question you may want to ask yourself (unless you already have a non-D) is: IO-360-A3B6 or IO-360-A3B6D ? Plenty of chatter on Mooneyspace about D vs. non-D. And what parts / brackets you need to go from one to the other.

I fly with a GNS 430 and a KX-155 The KX has always felt stronger (if it is difficult to hear what Center is saying, switching to the KX usually helps a little) In another instance where my plane has been sitting on the tarmac in South Texas with the early afternoon sun beating, the GNS was inop when I got started but the KX-155 was working. The only drawback of the KX-155 is the delaminating of the orange lenses and sometimes the digits going but that is a very easy fix. I would not remove the KX (unless all VORs are gone)