takair

Regarding log book, it is possible that there was nothing on missing pages or it was an error. I have seen logs….have some for one of my own plane, where pages are crossed out because they were intended for the engine log and were entered in error. I can imagine e a situation where they tore out the error not thinking it would look bad. As someone suggested, what is on the adjacent pages? Is there a logical gap in history. I won’t speak to the legal, but these threads usually trend bad for the poster….just a consideration early in the thread.

To follow up on my previous post, flew this evening and realized I grab the adjustment bar on the inboard corner, not between my legs…

It’s strange, been flying these planes for over 25 years and I’m not sure I could tell you exactly how I grab the lever normally. I think it may be possible to actuate it from the outboard side of the seat. It likely depends on the year of the plane. Mine has the handle going left to right and is accessible from the outside. I know I’ve helped passengers from my seat, although it’s a stretch.

I suppose one could put a rope on the bar and have it come up between one’s legs. A secondary, and greater issue, would be ability to reach to fuel selector. Some people who can’t reach it add an extension but that too would be between one’s legs. Be sure that is not an issue for you. And not to be stacking on, but I know that the space between seats can get a little tight when manipulating the Johnson bar or trim… just be sure you are able to comfortably do those things.

Mine looks similar. Do you have any upslope at the exit from the case? Not that it is a fix but t might help.

Don’t think I have a picture today, but can you confirm you have the whistle slot hole sitting above the cowl cove exit? That should minimize the effect of any low pressure draw. Does the vent line slant up for the first few inches? Do you have a dribble of oil coming from the vent after flight? If not, the oil may be coming from elsewhere.

I would take a stab at it if I had a plane to try it on or a set of vacuum speed brakes to mock it up on. I suspect that the linear actuators I use will be way to slow. There are faster ones, but they don’t have the torque. The ones that are fast and have the torque get big and heavy.

Where does the oil return line from the separator go now? There seems to be a science to getting it right too. If the routing allows oil to build up it becomes ineffective.

Last post you mentioned just using the vernier next time. Do you otherwise not use it? It is possible the ball is hanging up and not quite locking. The spring force in the governor then has the opportunity to pull it forward, at least one “detent”. Good advice to try that first. How old is the cable?

Sorry. Incomplete response. You are correct regarding ground function when taxing. What I meant is that if sitting on the ground with the engine running, but not moving, if the yoke goes hard over it could be a leak. I’ve knocked off a trim hose and it will also cause a hard over. You can compensate for that with the heading bug, but it will be offset. Kevin is probably right regarding gyro, but still worth leak checks.

Check it on the ground. If it turns then you likely have a leak. Could be the servos, lines or trim lines. Need to start leak checking. Servo would be the first place to start and most likely leak.

What everybody above said. Pucks won’t make any difference. Rigging might. Almost every transition student has issues. Most wait way too long trying to put the gear up and the speed builds. It takes a bunch of takeoffs to get it. Once the speed builds the easiest way is the dip someone mentioned. Just a LIGHT push. I’ve had people try to kill me by pushing too hard and too low. As you push the yoke you raise the gear. Easier said than done, but again requires practice. The biggest issue I see with putting gear down is managing your he momentum so there is just enough to get to the lock, but not so much that it bangs into place. More practice.

I’m not sure I fully follow, but if you have a 28v only radio you do not want operate it on 14v. At best you won’t get the rated power output, at worst it will take out some voltage regulators that are being stressed since they can’t up-convert.

Good excuse to fly after washing…although I’m not sure that is bulletproof….but still a good excuse….then spray some oil in it after landing…

I can’t answer why 15473 might be mechanically better. From an operational perspective, I first noticed the issue in starting, I seem to recall my mixture being too rich, but I am not sure that is technically possible given the fuel injection system…but that’s what I recall. If you have an engine monitor with fuel pressure, you will set off the alarm all the time. From a TC perspective, you will be outside the Mooney limits. I had notified Mooney at the time, they didn’t say much. Maybe I’m anal about limits, but it seems that going over the airframe limits is pretty clear cut, even if Lycoming says it is ok,. They don’t set the airframe limits…. If Mooney were still building airframes they might have some leverage with Lycoming or they would possibly do the analysis or testing to broaden the limits.. Vance…I know you know all of the legalities and you know the Mooney factory better than me…..I’m just kind of venting now….lol…old wounds…

Maybe this thread will be helpful.

Vance There is an older thread on the topic. One of the available pumps tends to put out over red line pressure. Lycoming says it’s ok but it is outside Money spec. I’ll see if I can find the thread.

I can tell of the times where “a friend” skipped a checklist or a flow due to distractions. “They” have forgotten gust locks, pitot covers, cones in front of plane, trim, flaps, cowl flaps, and most recently distracted from doing gumps by weather…..gear was down but not locked. Gear warning to the rescue. I think a good flow satisfies a checklist. I think the problem is always distractions. Even with a checklist there are numerous examples of doing the checklist and missing something. Interrupted by a radio call. Rote reflexes that look, but don’t see. Checklists and flows (maybe not all agree on the “flow”) are great safety enhancers. However, what would enhance safety would be a way to ensure there is always time to run them and not miss anything. I have yet to see a completely bulletproof checklist. Luckily most airplanes have some forgiveness built in. Some level of automation helps, but not all automation is bulletproof either. I know we want to believe we will say “unable” when rushed, but sometimes it’s not practical. When our routine is thrown off is when we are most susceptible. If you can sneak a checklist in at that time, it is the perfect time for it, but ironically it is exactly the checklist which is omitted in order to work around the new situation. I realize my response is not entirely helpful except to say to my friend, try not to be in a rush, build in more time for preparation, pre flights and checklists. Maybe we can make up some of the time by flying faster ROP :-). Be safe everybody!!

As I recall, you have to swing the gear with the nose gear doors open or the firewall panel removed to see the proximity of that bearing to the gear when turning. I think the flat gives just that extra amount of clearance to feel good when you see it.

And before digital cameras…lol.

It’s a good forum, we all learn. The manual is not very useful on some of these topics. Rich also caught that the link was backwards. Cliff’s issue is still a little disturbing, especially in light of the recent 310 accident in Boca.

I could have sworn I remember the shaved part as going aft and down to better clear the gear, but I can find no evidence of that at the moment.

If I’m picturing this correctly, one of those heinous (edit….meant Heim, but spell check corrected to what we are all thinking) joints should have a part of it machined flat for clearance. However, as you stated, if that alone were the issue, it would have been seen a long time ago. I would look for slop that finally hit its limit….or….be sure the rudder pedal torque tube has not cracked and partially failed. I think there are three places to look. In this case I would look where the small control arm to nose gear link is attached. I have seen this torque tube crack and break. Worst case no control, but I can picture a version where it jams. In the case I was, the gentleman was heavy set and tall and would somehow put his weight into the pedals while situating himself. Luckily they broke on the ground. I think this is a similar scenario that sometimes breaks the seat back. Under certain loads, I can see the force ending up n the joint I mention. It is very hard to inspect, but can be done…. summary….look at the torque tube where the control link attaches…be sure it’s not cracked…. Repair is a whole other discussion….

Kevin is THE man. Almost all parts can be restored or found. Most pop up on eBay. Only Pegasus is the altitude hold servos if you have that system but I’m convinced there is an answer for that. I have a bunch of spare parts I’ve accumulated, just haven’t had time to organize and post them….if Kevin can’t fix it he knows where to find me. As others have indicated the biggest investment is your time and a willing AP who will allow owner assist or hangar else with the right attitude.

Never thought to check there….sure enough….https://www.mcmaster.com/products/barrel-nuts/dowel-nuts-2~/