takair

I agree. The only problem with the owner produced group buys is that it happens in spurts and the person running the group buy is typically AOG and will not be around for the next one. If I can get it on my PMA it might provide for a continuous source for the ones and twos that folks typically need. The PMA would not preclude owner produced parts from happening. I still have a ton of work to make it happen so it’s not certain. For example, many Brittain installs are STC, so not clear to me that there is a clean path to PMA on top of and STC.

For what it’s worth, I’m starting discussion about PMA boots with FAA, but even under the best circumstances it will be months. Was planning elevator boots first, since they are even harder to get than the roll. I’ve got most of a test fixture set up to show equivalence. It will depend on what hoops the FAA throws my way beyond my basic plan. Constant turmoil with FAA funding won’t help.

@Kevin Westbrook may recommend a source. He is the Brittain guru.

You can make use of equivalent quality lines. They are hard to find but pop up occasionally or you find a workaround for ordering through Parker. Color coding was to make installation easy, so as you suggested, alternate markings may be acceptable.

They will literally ask what the application is and if you say airplane they will not sell it to you. That actually happened to me and others at the local store. So, ideally you would have a tractor at home with the same color pneumatic lines for the huffer blower thingy control valve. Or if you are a politician you could simply lie.

As I recall, you can get it from a Parker Hannafin store, with a Catch 22…..you can’t buy it for an airplane….

My 64E was retrofitted with it around the time of delivery…. I suspect your 63 is similar.

I’ve been looking for a while. One popped up here some time ago but I was too slow. LASAR waiting list is about 30 deep and they said they have 10 on order. Ugh. Maybe someone will reach out to you with one they have on the shelf.

Are you talking about the Mooney trim or Aerotrim. Looks like Aerotrim still made and I’m pretty sure STCd for Mooney’s. Pretty easy install, but would require routing wires through the airframe, so most labor would be there. aerotriminc.com/id2.html

Based on thread on BeachTalk, sounds like disagreement with the board of directors. On the surface it seems to be related to work from home, but likely goes deeper.

Same folks as LASAR from what I can tell.

Hard to say. Replacement of the stub spar, if done correctly may not even be a major repair if using factory parts to factory standards. Only a pre-buy can tell you if it was localized or more extensive. If you move forward, I would be sure my prebuy mechanic understands Mooneys and that you want extra time spent on corrosion inspection and the spar replacement. With some shops it might be as good as new.

Oh…and double check the valve cover gasket and the oil return line. Oil has a strange habit of migrating…

Scott, Do you have any pictures that are a little further back for situational awareness? I think I know where I’m looking. Could be your intake gasket failed. As the valve guides wear, the intake valve will leak a little oil into the tubes. Usually ends up in the sump, but if the intake gasket is bad it could leak there…and also cause a slight inlet leak with associated change in mixture. Would start there before going for full cylinder..

You have a pretty capable panel, I would get it fixed at a minimum. I’m surprised about the glide slope coupling. The previous owner of your plane flew some serious hard IFR quite routinely and I would be surprised if that wasn’t working. Or were there changes made afterwards? Or did something fail…

Have you tried previous seller? Came across this, https://www.planesalesusa.com/details/Listing/Single-Engine-Propeller/11170/1998-Mooney-M20R-Ovation-2-GX-Aircraft

It’s done pretty routinely. At a minimum you will know how well oil is flowing. If you can’t get flow through it after flushing, send it out.

Is your Surefly powered directly from the battery or from a bus bar. As I recall, the STC wants it directly from the battery primarily for reliability reasons, but the battery would also act as a capacitive filter. If you are on a bus bar, it could introduce noise into the radios/audio.

Just a note that that idle mixture is different. The RPM rise will tell you that. Easy adjustment by mechanic and they do shift seasonally. I don’t disagree with the other guys ref carb heat not being required every landing. However, if you don’t use it just know when to use it if symptoms show up. Carb icing gauge or carb temp is good. I’ve just experienced a few folks who say they don’t need it, but on a flight review when I pull the engine, it takes some prodding to get them to add carb heat. Maybe if the engine was really faltering the scare factor would be better than me asking “what else”, and “what else……

From a mechanics standpoint, you may want to check that your idle mixture is set correctly. Idling at 1000rpm, pull mixture to cut off. You should have 0-100rpm rise. I like to set it for 25. If it is more than that you are too rich and carb heat only makes it worse. From a CFI standpoint, I like to teach consistent and predictable operations. I find that some folks who don’t regularly use carb heat, when presented with a failing engine, don’t always reach for carb heat. When going around, it should be muscle memory to push carb heat in immediately. I will admit that when I myself do touch and goes in my taildragger, I push in carb heat on short final so that I don’t have that as an added distraction. Hope this helps.

I would not be too worried… I would suggest getting to the airplane as soon as it is safe to and gently sweep it off. Much of it slides off the leading and trailing edges on its own. Here in CT they are calling for light (weight) snow.

You might try staying rich just to see what the temps do. Most folks lean to maintain EGT as they climb. For example, if my climb EGT starts at 1200, I will gradually lean to maintain that (I cheat since I have an Auto-Lean system that does it for me). The idea is that you maintain a rather rich mixture to stay away from detonation when at high power and poor cooling. Magneto timing can be a problem if advanced too far. Surefly is the same, be sure the timing is proper. At high power, the Surefly should not be advancing. Since your cruise temps. sound to be reasonable, I’m not so sure you will find an issue with timing. As far as engine analyzers, I may not be the right person since I myself have an antique, but others will chime in or you will find a number of threads on the topic.

For some reason I thought you had multi cylinder CHT. Having only 1, I suppose it could read false high. Yes, that should be checked. I find your leaning in climb unusual. Maybe I’m old school, but I typically start the climb full rich and full power. I note my EGT and hold that through the climb. In other words, I only lean enough to maintain that. Leaning more aggressively at high power risks detonation and hot CHTs. Aggressive lean of peak in climb can reduce ChT but with reduced power, extending your climb. Maybe try a full rich, full power climb and see what happens….of course if the temp goes up…don’t continue. Can’t recall, was magneto timing checked? As a side note, absolute values of EgT vary too much cylinder to cylinder and aircraft to aircraft to be very useful.

I cheated since I couldn’t recall the exact value, but 6-7” seems popular, which is quite low pressure differential. Thus the criticality of sealing the leaks. The engine cylinders are quite a large leak to begin with. There are likely some variations depending on where you measure, due to ram effect, but the key question is, does the air go through the cylinders or out a hole. The cylinders require a bunch of turns, so the smart air takes the easy way out.

Disappointing the seals did not help, but I think they can still be improved. In the image, I circled three spots in the back that look like they would leak. I circled two spots in the front to check. I can’t see, but be sure the front cowl seals are sealing too. This is often ignored, also around the starter and alternator. You mentioned climbing lean of peak and lower CHTs? Were you less than 75% power (65% better)? Have you tried full power, full rich climb? What fuel flows? You could be running very lean in the climb due to fuel servo issue. At climbed power, you should normally be about 200 ROP +-. Hard to check because you don’t want to lean too much at those settings, but you get a sense of it when you level off by how much you have to lean to get to peak…..do you know that value?