takair

The preliminary report is certainly turning this into a bit of a mystery. It seems many of the key components in the fuel system took heat damage, so hard to determine if they were functioning properly. Sounds like the system was clean, but it doesn’t take much in the injectors to clog. I really feel for the victim, the instructor, mechanic, and the familys.

Be sure to size them carefully. The altitude hold servos are typically much larger than the rudder and ailerons.

Wow, awful place for a crack…hard to even find that.. Good on your mechanic. Any history of hard landing? Probably easiest way to dig deeper is to pull the gear.

Depends how far out of rig it is. If nobody messed with it and the ball is just out of center, it might be less than 30 minutes and a test flight. If someone tried to get it right the wrong way it might require correcting the basic rigging and then a few flights with adjustments between. The hardest part is gaining access to some adjustments and being patient with making small adjustments. One wrong adjustment can get you chasing your tail…. You might actually get it to fly hands off but then have severe wing drop in a stall because all the controls are cockeyed. Also, an out of rig Mooney costs a lot of speed…. A well rigged, clean plane might actually hit book numbers. Feel free to PM me if I can be of help or provide advice on a specific issue.

Thanks much @Flyler Tyler for the compliments! It’s a pleasure working and flying with you. @Hank….we had dinner at KHFD many, many moons ago….if I remember correctly.

How old is the battery? Maybe it’s legit recharge attempt on a failing battery? whats going on with oil pressure?

Per a post on Beach Talk, this may not have ended well. Thoughts and prayers are with those involved. Something went wrong at Saratoga Springs with the aircraft discussed in this thread.

As I recall, there are further adjustments in the maintenance menus. As others suggested, be sure it is not only specific frequencies. Also, check basic things like turning off other systems. USBs can be problematic and only show up on certain frequencies. Add in local noise and it can open the squelch.

Getting into the “long shot” realm, check for exhaust leak onto a plug. Also, confirm ignition switch working correctly, at idle go off and make sure it cuts off. Check at different RPM? Does it behave the same? Magneto, as you already suggested, would not be the first bad overhaul in the world.

What level of compliment would it take for you to print me a new engine?

My E has dust caps on the main wheel bearings so I took my hub caps off. I’m lazy and it was preventing me from checking my pressures often enough. My nose wheel does not have a dust cap so I use the hub cap. The main idea is to keep sand and moisture out of the bearings. Also helps keep excess grease from splattering. Cool little pump. I just know that when I need it the battery will be dead. Have you tried inflating a flat tire….assuming no puncture? Just curious the capacity to do that. Looks like they make a bigger one too.

It’s hard to describe how to fix them except to suggest looking at pictures of others here on the forum. It could be as simple as slotting them so they sit flush with the cowl. They may actually be too wide as well. Not sure you need new seals, so much as they need adjustment. As for where to buy, there are various levels. Aircraft Spruce has raw materials. @Gee Bee Aeroproducts often shows pictures of the very nice seals he sells. McFarlane also has a unique seal they sell. This may not be a 100% solution, but certainly a starting point.

I would be suspicious of your baffle seals. They look too wrinkly. By the witness marks they do not look like they are sealing. I suspect they would fail the light test, where you backlight them and look for light comeing through. Would consider trimming them for a better fit.

As Tyler suggested, the block may have a step. Next time you are flying with gear up, reach a finger in there to feel for it on the near side of the block. You can also cell phone photo it. My guess is that a little extra forward pressure on the bar would get it past the step and it will snap up. The spring in the gear handle does not have significant force to overcome at step or misrigging.

There is a fixed pushrod to the bungee assembly attached to the airframe. When the stab moves the pushrod imparts an effective force on the bungees. Or another way to look at it is that the bungees don’t move while the tail does and thus imparts the appropriate spring force on the elevator.

Try @Alan Fox or @Jerry Pressley I may have a spare if they don’t.

Check that the alternator is tight and not bouncing in its mounts. Check belt alignment. Check that parts attached to the engine are not touching fixed parts. Light contact can set up some feedback to the airframe. Check that the baffles are not cracked and buzzing. I once had a cracked baffle make me believe my engine was coming apart. I’ve noticed a subtle change in vib and noise depending even on “light chop”. The early birds without harmonic balancers might have a subtle difference in vib. Most people won’t notice. Be sure you red arc is appropriate for your engine, prop, airframe combo. In the grasping at straws dept…..make sure your prop is clocked correctly. Even with the alignment nuts/dowls, it is possible to get the prop on wrong and push the cowl out, yet still torque the prop down. I hate to admit how I know that.

Hi Billy Looks like you have a G model…hmm…I’m not sure where your battery is, nose or tail. Either way, you need to move the red wire from the hot battery bus to the normal power buss. If you are tied on at the battery, the easiest way to do this is to move power to the side of the master relay that comes alive when the master is on. This would make it work the way you desire. Just make sure you move the fuse to protect the wiring. Rob

The fixed step has a different mounting configuration. The retractable step is more substantial. I suspect that a fairing would not do much. It has quite a bit of parasite drag and also induces drag because it puts the airplane out of trim. It would be up to your mechanic and IA to make a determination on a fairing.

If you have questions about the electric conversion let me know. Over 400 kits sold to date. We have an occasional failure, but in many cases we trace it back to an alignment issue with the cable and step, and we have instructions on how to rectify that. Mooneys being hand built, there are small variations in each.

I know the mags have been on and off and thus timed. I think your engine timing is 22+/-1. Your timing can be in limits, but have a 2degree split and get different mag drops. If the timing is a little out of tolerance it becomes more significant. Using the timing cone is not the most precise thing. I know it’s sometimes hard to ask the mechanic these questions, but perhaps ask him what the mags are timed at…..or suggest retiming them both to 22 or 21? It might be that the left mag is clocked in such a way that it prefers more advanced and is causing these issues. Just seems consistent with timing….

I have come to the opinion that if you service the prop every annual, it eventually gets full (12 years or less if over serviced) and further grease needs a way out. Seems to coincide with recommended OH time. So, full hub….some migrates out the seal. The risk of not servicing is corrosion in the hub and/or dried grease. So, it’s possible you simply have a slightly over serviced hub. The grease breaks down and the oil seeps out. As Yetti said, Arroshell grease got worse over time and is no longer the preferred grease after overhaul.

What type of tach do you have….where is it reading from? Some electronic tachs read from each mag vs a common point like a gear. If you have pickup on each mag, perhaps try to swap them to see if problem follows.

Fred…will he also check the previously mentioned screens…total 3? They may be holding junk that just needs to work its way past the screens to cause more problems. It is amazing how the junk gets by and then causes problems, but I have had it happen….in fact…shortly after getting bladders installed….

As Eric said, check all screens and filters. There is the gascolator, electric pump filter, and servo screen. If there has been a persistent water problem, it can damage the servo and cause some pretty serious issues. Looking at that screen can give a good indication of health. Do you have engine analyzer with recording capability? What was fuel flow and pressure? Did you note ChT or EgT show anything like a single cylinder going off line? This is most typical of clogged injector. All cylinders tends to be servo or spider and are obviously more hazardous. Hope you can find something on ground…