N201MKTurbo

I don’t want to talk about it any more….

That would work too. It was a long time ago. My memory isn’t as sharp as it once was. I think what happened I asked for the tool and the guy came up, opened the door and handed it to me. And they let me fly planes……

Better than the door handle falling off before the door opened. I had to call the FBO on the radio once and have them send someone over with a pair of vice grips so I could get out of the plane. Since then, I keep a craftsman #0 Phillips screwdriver in the plane. It fits the roll pin hole and makes a nice emergency door handle.

But, cars and motorcycles both have inner tubes. Well cars used to.

I have worked on a couple of Johnson bar Mooneys where the gear was rigged where the preloads were so high that you had to bend the Johnson bar every time you put the gear down. Having the gear rigged this way puts way more stress on the weld than it was designed for.

Where did she find them? At a yard sale there in Kerrville?

You will get fuel pressure just cranking it. I rarely use the boost pump to start my plane. If you need to fly it somewhere for maintenance, you will need a ferry permit to do it legally.

I was only there once. I got conned into picking up wrecked bikes off the track. And then fixing them so they can run them some more. I was offered a free day to run my bike, but I couldn’t make it happen before they closed.

But I got sucked into engineering and airplanes. After I discovered airplanes, cars and bikes just became a way to get to the airport.

So, I researched lap times at race tracks. The fastest car times are a bit faster than the fastest bike times. But not by much. One thing I can safely say is the fastest street legal bike you can buy at a dealership will annihilate the fastest street legal car you can buy new at the dealership. Fun read. https://forums.finalgear.com/threads/nurburgring-lap-times-bikes-and-cars-for-comparison.16754/

Too bad Arizona Motorsports Park closed. I know the guy that put on motorcycle track days. I probably could have arranged to let you do a few laps with your race car and compare it with one of the A class riders. Late in the day just before closing.

Cams, headers and pistons. As I said above, the engine was put on a drag bike and driven by a pro. It had a huge tire and a wheelie bar. Oh, I did polish the pistons, chambers and ports. I didn't put it on a flow bench because I was poor and didn't have one. I just made them look shiny. I did have time and elbow grease. This was 45 years ago after all.

It is hard to beat the laws of physics. Power to weight ratio and low aerodynamic drag favors the bike. Same with braking, Less mass to slow down. Most bikes have crazy huge brakes too. My bike has 3 12" brake disks for two wheels. It stops crazy fast.

You must not have a lot of time on bikes.

And powder coated and laser marked!

You know we are just having a pissing contest. There is no way to prove this. If I had my current bike 40 years ago, I would challenge you to a race through a city. But I'm too old and wise for that foolishness these days.

I don't think there is any car that can outrun a skilled rider on a fast bike.

Good question, I have on on the wheel for over 10 years. If it is out of the sun and not exposed to anything that will degrade it, it should last a long time.

It could be the case was fretting, or some sealant got on the case halves where the through bolt went through. This can cause a lack of stress (torque) leading to what you describe. Lycoming has a service bulletin warning people that the use of any type of sealant around the through bolts can lead to this failure. Some were putting sealant around the through bolts to stop oil leaks. Lycoming says that is a very bad idea.

You can probably get away with just putting the end of the wire in the pivot bolt and readjusting the conduit clamp.

I’m not real familiar with those engines, so I can’t tell if that is a through bolt or not. If it is, I would be very concerned. It might be worth a call to the factory for advice.

The biggest problem with tubes, is they get bigger over time. I’m not sure how that happens, probably the rubber cold flowing under pressure. When they get too big, it is difficult to get them in and laying flat. They will get creases and folds in them and that is where they fail. If you use a new tube every time you put on a new tire you won’t have this issue.

Full disclosure, my engine turned that time. I wrecked the bike and some bikers down the street who watched me tune the thing all the time bought the wreck and put the engine on a drag bike. They did the 9.2 on the drag bike. The most bizarre thing that happened with that bike happened one night at about 2:00 AM. I was assistant manager at a pizza parlor and had to close the place, so I didn’t get out till then. I pulled up to this stop light and a police bike pulled up in the lane next to me. When the light turned green, we both took off an a normal speed, then the cop bike sped up a bit, so I did too, then the cop nailed it and so did I. I pulled well ahead of him. We hit about 140. At the next light we were once again in adjacent lanes. I didn’t look at him and he didn’t look at me. When the light turned green I took off at a normal speed and he turned right.

My 1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 with headers and cams did a 9.2 1/4 mile. So, you could get a fast vehicle back then.