ltdoyle

Hey guys, looking for a replacement OEM oil temp gauge for my 1977 J. Thanks

Oil pressure drops slightly, cyl temps elevate some

Ok, this might be a little long, but it is kicking my backside. Last Oct, my engine crankcase (IO-360-A3B6D) had a massive crack under #1 cyl near Waco. I was able to make it to Waco and land safely. My A&P/IA and I removed the engine and brought it home where it was disassembled. There was no metal found and oil pressure never dropped. The engine had under 500 SMOH. We obtained a yellow tagged case and reassembled the engine. It now starts right up and runs great. However, the oil temperature gauge (OEM analog) will slowly climb in the pattern past the red line (245f) and will slowly drop to just under redline on descent to land at low power settings. Shortly after landing I can hit the oil filter with a laser temp finder and it will read 185-190f. I added a second temp probe on the front of the engine with a digital gauge. It too will get up to 230 or so. I have since tried two different vernatherms, replaced the factory temp sensor and flushed out the oil cooler. The original vernatherm end looked great. I flushed out the vernatherm cavity and reached in and felt with my fingertip and could not detect any burrs or imperfections. I’m still not convinced if I actually have high oil temperature, or if the gauge has gone wonky. I’m at a loss what to try next.

M20J with IO360-A3B6D field overhaul done. Now oil temp is too high. Is it possible that oil lines could be hooked up backwards and would that cause oil to get too hot?

It was overhauled in 2019

The engine was overhauled right at 500 hrs ago and that cylinder has never been off since.

Well, today sucked. Left Midway Waxahachie in my M20J and flew down to Temple and had lunch with my bud who is flying his Bonanza. On the return flight I just passed Waco and started getting a vibration. It started getting worse so I thought I better get on the ground and have a look at it so I did a u-turn and contacted Waco Tower. I told them I had a rough running engine and needed to land. As I approached the airport, the engine really started getting rough and I declared an emergency. Fortunately I landed without incident and taxied off the runway where the engine died. When I got out of the plane I saw it was oil leaking from the bottom of the engine. I pulled the top engine cover and saw the through bolt and two of the connecting bolts on cylinder number one were gone, and the case was cracked. I guess I was lucky I got it on the ground. In any case it appears I'm going to be looking for either an exchange engine or someone who can overhaul this one. Any advice would be great.

I was really happy with the oh done by Jewel, I think this is just one f those things that happens.

Standby vacuum

It is painted, overhaul was done by Jewell last April. I don't think it is patched, but maybe got thinned during inspection, bead blasting? I am thinking about draining the oil and cleaning it real good and trying a little JB Weld hi heat. If that did not work, then remove the pan and send it to someone like divco.

I have just under 100 SMOH on a Lycoming IO-360 installed in my J. The other day I went out and found a puddle of oil that had dripped down on the nose tire. After cleaning the engine and flying, I looked it over. What I discovered is a small oil puddle on the oil pan, directly above the intake tube. I would wipe it off, then watch it reform. Apparently there is a pin hole or very small crack at that location. Has any had this issue before and how was it corrected?

I had a similar problem on my 77. Does your dome light work? The dome light and electric clock are on the same circuit. It is fused with an in line fuse near the battery. Mine had blown.

"Caroline". It's a 1977 J model with WY as the N number alpha characters. In 1977, a girl named Caroline won Miss Wyoming.

Jay, sorry, I don't have a fuel flow or engine monitor, 201er, good point. I really can't say if I was leaned when taxing since it was a really short taxi. I have new Tempest fine wires, but a fouled plug could be possible. I have never seen peak EGT when full rich. Just hope it doesn't ever happen again.

I had the same problem. I removed the ground wires and the field wire and cleaned them with a wire brush (they did not look that bad). I also cleaned the terminals where they attach. Apparently that solved my problem.

I did a hot start and probably flooded the engine on my J model yesterday at Mineral Wells, Tx. It was probably 100 in the shade. No big problem though, I just did a flooded engine start and it started up and cleared ok. I taxied to the runway and did a normal run up and takeoff. After lifting off, I could feel a small vibration and just had that gut feeling that something wasn't right. I was full rich, full rpm, and wot. Everything looked ok, until I looked at my analog EGT, which was at peak EGT. I checked to make sure I was full rich, then I started to lean, but she told me that was a no no. At first I thought maybe I had broken mixture cable. When I got enough altitude, I pumped the throttle from wot to closed and back to wot and the engine cleared and EGT went back to normal. The rest of the flight was normal. I have about 30 SMOH, and have never run anything but 100LL.. In the summer, in Texas, I usually leave my cowl flaps open unless I get up high and cool. I can only guess I was maybe a little vapor locked. Anyone else have a similar experience?

I would suggest you remove the gear actuator, open it up, and inspect the gear Inside the actuator for wear. Once they get excessive wear, they will bind and pop the breaker, esp if you still have 20:1 gears.. Older Mooneys are supposed to do this every other year, and newer ones every 500 hrs. If you have a mechanic do this, I would watch, it's not as hard as it sounds.

Had a broken ground on the power unit, problem solved.....

Thanks Jetdriven. That is exactly what is happening! I just have to figure out what is causing the power supply to cause an over voltage!

My strobe power supply on the left wing died on my 1977 M20J. I replaced it with. Whelen A490TCF unit. After wiring it up, I checked it for operation and found it worked fine. The next day when I went to fly, I noticed a low voltage warning, and a slight discharge on the ammeter. I found the alt field breaker tripped, and reset it. A few minutes later it tripped again. Once again it tripped, so I landed, I disconnected the power line to the strobe power supply and did another flight. This time there was no problem with the breaker. Wiring appears ok, bad power supply?

It will never happen to me. #1, I am much too good as a pilot,. And #2, I use a checklist. This worked for almost 38 years. Unfortunately, I won't make 39 years. In September, I was flying to get a $100 hamburger. I almost always do a standard pattern, but on this day, there was a low cloud layer directly over the downwind path, and the runway was clear dead ahead. I decided to do a straight in and stay out of the clouds. I was close and fast, so I pulled power and pulled the nose up to bleed off airspeed. Once I got to 120 mph indicated I dropped the gear. Slowing under 100 I put full flaps. Something did not feel right, but I did not listen to the little voice. Short final,, 70 kts. I reached over and verified the gear handle was down, a habit I always do (usually 3 times). I came in for my greaser landing and then "womp" - I was sliding down the runway on my belly. After stopping, I wondered what the heck. Looking around, I saw the gear breaker had tripped, and the gear only came down about. An inch. I did not verify the gear down light, nor check the floor window. I assure you, that is on my checklist now. Hope you.guys can benefit from my boo boo.

It's been a few years, are you still happy with the Jewell overhaul? They have my engine now. David

I had a C-175 that used to coke the valves frequently. I got pretty good with the "rope trick". I would ream the valve guides and clean off the valve stems with the cylinders still attached to the engine. You can insert cotton rope through the spark plug hole, then gently pull the prop until the rope is against the valves. You can then take the valve springs off. After that, remove the rope and take the piston down to the bottom. You can then tie a piece of floss on the end of the valve and push it into the cylinder (string and all). After than you can run a reamer through the valve guide to clean it out. Pull the string out the spark plug hole with a claw grabber, exposing the valve stem where you can inspect it and clean any gunk off of it. Use the claw grabber to go through the valve guide, and grab the string and pull it back through the valve guide. You can then take a long screw driver through the spark plug hole to help you guide the valve back into the valve guide, while pulling on the string. After that, put the rope back in and install the springs. (I have also used compressed air instead of rope). Takes about 30 minutes start to finish to do a cylinder.

What would be great is someone posting a you-tube video of the process!!!