ltdoyle

I had a C-175 that used to coke the valves frequently. I got pretty good with the "rope trick". I would ream the valve guides and clean off the valve stems with the cylinders still attached to the engine. You can insert cotton rope through the spark plug hole, then gently pull the prop until the rope is against the valves. You can then take the valve springs off. After that, remove the rope and take the piston down to the bottom. You can then tie a piece of floss on the end of the valve and push it into the cylinder (string and all). After than you can run a reamer through the valve guide to clean it out. Pull the string out the spark plug hole with a claw grabber, exposing the valve stem where you can inspect it and clean any gunk off of it. Use the claw grabber to go through the valve guide, and grab the string and pull it back through the valve guide. You can then take a long screw driver through the spark plug hole to help you guide the valve back into the valve guide, while pulling on the string. After that, put the rope back in and install the springs. (I have also used compressed air instead of rope). Takes about 30 minutes start to finish to do a cylinder.

What would be great is someone posting a you-tube video of the process!!!

I went from a 1965 E to a 1977 J. Best decision I ever made! You can throw a ton of money into an E, and it still won't be a J. Obviously, if I could afford it, you could probably make the same conclusion to go from a J to an Acclaim!

Thanks for all of the info! Turned out it was a sticky static drain. I cleaned/lubed it and had Paul with PDG came out and certified it for $250

I recently moved from an E model to a 201. Anyway, time for an IFR cert. I had a guy I used before. He comes to my hangar. This day, it was pretty cold when he and his son showed up and started hooking everything up to the plane. I ran off the restroom for a few minutes. When I came back, he was putting everything back in his car. Surprised, I said "done?" . He said no, you have a massive static leak, so I can't do it. I had just had a Navworx ADS-B installed recently, so thought, hmmm, maybe they knocked something loose. I started out looking under the dash, (not looking forward to pulling the side panels off again.) The first thing I noticed was the alternate static valve about half way out. By then, the guy had left, and I haven't had any luck getting back with him. To his benefit, he did not charge me. Anyway, so I don't know if that was the problem, or if I do have a leak. I know that when flying, I can pull the alternate static valve and see about a 80' difference immediately. Looking to see who in the south Dallas area that you would recommend for an IFR Cert....

I recently purchased a nicely equipped 1977 M20J. It has a 430 coupled to a STEC-30 w/alt hold and it makes a great cross country IFR machine. The one thing I do not have is an electric trim. I have learned that this plane likes LOTS of trim for taking off, landing, etc. (on my approach to landing I am close to full nose up!) Any suggestions or ideas on what it would take to add electric trim?

Which brings to mind...what grease do you use. I was using Aeroshell 17, but understand Aeroshell 22 is the stuff to use now?

Good question. I had an E model that I pulled, cleaned, and repacked every year instead of every two years. I now have a J model with a 40:1 gear. My IA said this model does not require the SB be done every two years. Anyone know for sure?

I had the Navworx installed in my airplane. The advantage is that it has ADS-B In also, I don't think Freeflight does without an expensive add on. Total install was $4,000 turn key. Doesn't work with Foreflight though, had to change to WingX.

I went with the less expensive, but works great route. I had a NavWorx 600-B installed for ADS-B out. It also transmits via wifi to my Ipad weather & traffic. I switched from Foreflight to XWingPro because FF doesn't play with others. The traffic on Xwing is great however, as it shows direction, altitude, speed, climbing or decending, and N# if ADS-B out aircraft. Turn key was $4K.

I'd seriously consider Ronnie Kramer at Dugosh. I think you would get a comparable annual at a much less cost. When I was there a couple of weeks ago for some minor service, he went way and above for about half as much as a well known Mooney Service Center in San Antonio....

Instead of a rubber band to disconnect, try a plastic 35mm film canister. It fits right over the yolk tip and holds the disconnect button down great. When you want the system on, just take the film canister off and put it on the opposite yolk tip....

I stand corrected. The airspeed is mph on the outer ring and knots on the inside. The POH and performance figures are in MPH.....

Older Mooneys (mine is a 1965 M20E) have their airspeed indicators in MPH....

I have hot/flooded start procedures on my checklist....