jamesm

I had SureFly situation while flying a IFR training flight at night luckily it was VFR. we made it back safely. The engine started running rough I thought carb ice, tried switching tanks nope. Inflight mag check when switched to Bendix (Right) mag ran fine. I thought to myself it can't be the Electronic Ignition system. switched all to Left Mag again (SureFly) started cutting in and out. flew on right Mag (Bendix). All spark plugs are fine wire plugs. I was able to reproduce on the ground (big sigh of relief) I hate Intermittent problems especially flight critical components but I was confidently prove to myself that problem was 90% or higher solved before I took flight. I followed the Surefly troubleshooting guide/ instructions and was in contact with Surefly great support. I have flown the Mooney for about 7 Hours since the Plug cleaning and about 640 Hrs on SureFly prior to this event. I have had the SureFly installed since 2019 with no problems. Best I can tell that is when I was flying and doing My IFR training, I wasn't leaning like I should too busy flying. I took out the SureFly Plugs soaked them in Hoppes #9 (cleans out carbon from plugs) for an hour or so cleaned the plugs and blew them out the plugs. I saw something fly out couple of the plugs while blowing the out, what looked to be a ring of carbon. lesson learned: I quit flying at night in winter conditions while potential IFR conditions could occur. Yet another delay in my training until work schedule allows oh well. not worth the risk. James '67C

I have a manual gear but thought this might be applicable to this post it's email from LASAR Spring is coming early to the Mooniacs! The No-Back Spring! LASAR is pleased to announce the early release of the Eaton No-Back Spring Kit. It’s been quite a long process, but LASAR’s continued investment in time and resources has met with success. Our team has been hard at work to get these Eaton No-Back Spring Kits to our Mooney community. It was our hope to have them available by early summer, but Aviation Angels have shined down on us. We anticipate shipping to you by the end of February. Why is the No-Back Spring so important? Per the Mooney Service Bulletin, the failure of the No-Back Spring in the Landing Gear actuator renders both the normal (electrical) landing gear inoperative as well as the emergency (manual) mode. The potential for physical harm and expense of a belly landing far outweighs the cost of safety. Your No-Back Spring Kit – PN: SB 20-282-001 comes with the following: (1) SPRING, CLUTCH “NO BACK" (1) METALCAL, MAINTENANCE RECORD (1) DATA PLACE (ALTERNATE FROM EATON) (1) GREASE (POLY-LUBE) (2) ADS145-10-43 BOLT 207-1 (2) ADS145-10-38 BOLT (4*) LOCKNUT (1) EATON SI 102000-1-901, Rev. 2 (April 3, 2003) service instructions We have a limited quantity still available in our first shipment. Please follow the link and reserve your kit on our website or reach out to our sales team with questions at 707-263-0412 or you can email them directly:

it doesn't help about this time last year or maybe about April or may Hartzel up their prices from around ~$700 ish for 149 NL starter to later in the year 2024 to ~$1200 ish and to added insult to injury they want your core for your old Skytec core but only offer you $200 for the core. Some how the places that use to repair / overhaul the Skytec seem to no longer exists or hard to find.

I wasn't a fan of Cannon who did my L3 NGT9000 ADS-B install in 2016. From being way overcharged for the install to shoddy workmanship to avoiding me for warranty work. I believe they had sold business previously a couple of times. I heard they were good, apparently before 2016 they had gone downhill. Your new panel looks nice glad came out the way it did. Enjoy it. James '67C

I have debated what is the best way in doing this ... The Mid 1960's schematics seem to be straight forward but when I look at early 1980's I see too many lines that could lead me a stray. So is it best to have one that breaks down power for one layer and another layer specifics signals and perhaps 3rd misc signal that aren't your standard A429,RS232,RS485,RS422, CAN, Grey code, etc ,etc , etc. If you owned the airplane for years you probably have good idea what equipment has been added and removed over the years but if you are new owner or a little deterred by what might seem to be a complex maze of wires going everywhere or no where in some case depending how previous person dealt with that. Mine was fairly simple I was around for most or the work that was done to it. I think the only wires that haven't been replaced is Pitot heat, Stall warning fuel pump, and the big fat cables ground and power cables (starter alternator, and battery) and maybe portions of overhead/shoulder lighting torpedo lights. all else wiring has been replace with Tefzel MS grade wiring. James '67C

Not sure If this helps... Nor am I familiar with the relationship between G5 and G3x display (other than I am guessing it's some CAN interface) to GFC500 autopilot connection. I have '67C 2 G5's and GNC255&355/GNX375 GFC500. I use to and quite regularly get the yellow "HDG" display indication this what would happen to me before the GFC 500 was installed. I had the 2 G5 configuration. where the HSI on take off on it's own it would revert to ADI display. you could manually change it back but this was a new failure to me. This told me that something is wrong and at the time I was planning on having the GFC500 installed. I had been getting the Yellow high lighted "HDG" indication since it was installed 2018. I had tried what Garmin prescribed to me in Late 2020 below before the A/P was installed with no avail. So I figured that during the A/P install that they would be going through the wiring catch what ever was wrong. As turn out after the GFC500 was installed the A/P would disconnect on it's own. So I took back to Avionics place they swapped the ADI with HSI A/P functioned correctly no A/P disconnects. So my original G5 ADI had intermittently failed. I could see failure in the G5 SD card log files. The avionics installer had the G5 ADI exchanged for me and I reconfigured the ADI/ HSI back to original configuration but the "new" G5 was failing as well. So Garmin sent me a reconditioned G5 unit that finally fixed it. until about 3 months ago the HSI was reverting to ADI on it's own again. This time no obvious trace in the G5 SD log file of the failure. The avionics installer updated the software but still no avail. the Avionics installer claimed that they open all the connectors reassembled them and re-calibrated magnetometer. No yellow "HDG" indication and no A/P disconnects so far all is good. So it seems like are there similar failures from the Pilot/human interface prospective but at the avionics end different issues causing the problem(s). A bit suspicious of Garmin's avionics spares inventory tracking and quality control ability. Having gone through it with G5 and I had similar go around with GNC355 TX gain setting issue that would dump when it was powered off. Once powered the GNC355 back on and then no one could hear me transmit. you wouldn't necessarily catch this issue depending on the airspace you fly in. I spoke with one of the engineer's he acknowledge that this was a known issue with the GNC355's but only "few" of the early S/N units. My dumb luck I had gone through two of them before it was finally resolved. I believe that there was a software fixed this. It sucks paying out all this money a not having trust and having reliability issues in our A/P's and avionics. I hope they find the source of them problem and find a solid fix for it. James'67C

looks great

Now you are going to have to powder coat the gear doors and linkage to make them match . Looks great. !!! may it out last the original + 61 years.

Yes, I have them installed and yes the magneto rocker switches are cheap however the push to start button switch is a MS (Mil Spec) quality push button switch . The rocker switches are something along the lines of low end automotive quality grade but it had a STC'd and I didn't want to have deal with the headache at a later date. I really don't like the idea that push to start feature is not guarded very well. Could easily depending where mounted could get bumped. If I recall correctly I heard this or similar topic that came up on "Ask the A&P's" Podcast and Mike Bush seemed a bit skeptical l about taking any switches and making into Magneto switch as to whether it was a major or minor alteration/repair and a person brought up that ElectroAir switch solution had a STC . Either way I decide to get a 337 to avoid conflict in the future at least in theory. James '67C

Is there any disadvantages of have gone the a 337 route? I was looking from Garmin G5 (G3X)/ GFC500 and all other add on (magnetometer GMU11, GAD13, GAD29,etc etc) to make an entire "system" prospective. So the Bendix system would be 2 Magneto's (one with retard breaker) ,Push to start ignition switch and the shower of sparks starting vibrator and I went to the Electroair (cheap quality) rocker switches and push to start button since it had a STC. My rational was that I did it thinking that it would CYA if I ever sold the airplane or question by FAA inspector (highly unlikely). Plus I was thinking since the Bendix magneto system which included the SOS and ignition switch Bendix system which of course it has been bastardize when I went to SureFly Ignition several years ago. Just Curious, James '67C

I put in a Maxdim Dual Dimmer Controller in my '67C many years ago. Certain engine instruments like EI CGR30 required an external components as I recall it was a RC (Resistor and Capacitor) to make the display dim properly. I haven't had any problems once I added the extra external components. I think that made mention in the installation manual. A lot lighter than the old wire wound rheostat dimmer that came with mid 60's models Mooney's. I went a little overboard rewired the whole thing and added fuses and 2 independent buss bars for each channel. One dimmer circuit is radio and instruments and the other is circuit is for the overhead/shoulder. light dimming. Kind expensive but I got the one STC'd makes less suspect by the Feds and have it legal part of the paper work airplane if it ever gets sold. These are PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer's has great resolution of output. I think would depend on what you wire up to dimmer. The reason I bought the dual dimmer was to balance what is being dimmed and added two buss bars. On my '67C it's right above the pilot's left knee on one the support truss. I just expanded what Mooney already had there by adding the second buss bar and fuses add protection and call out on my particular dimmer installation. if the lighting doesn't look right or I don't like it I can move the lighting circuit to the over to other circuit in about a 2 minute to change. At one point I had LED and Incandescent lights on the same circuit no problem. Hope this helps, James '67C

Your Panel Looks nice. Have you considered flush mounting G5's ? I did on my '67C it looks nicer in my opinion. I did have my G5's sitting above panel for a couple of years. I changed mine because one of the RAM mount mounting option came real close to shearing off the knob of the G5. if I ever had to use full control input, highly unlikely but I decided to buy a little clearance so I flush mounted them. The other reason to mount every thing from the one direction is that if you need remove the panel. and you have some equipment the that mounts from the back and other equipment mount from the front. you have to disconnect pitot static lines and my understanding is technically that you would need to pitot static check the system again since you had to disconnect the pitot static lines. James

I was having hard time finding 'U' clip tinnerman nutplates, and got tried trying ones the dropped or gotta away ones. so I nutplated all mine. now I don't have to hear the sound of the falling tinnerman nutplate between cylinders and then playing a game of hide and seek trying find out where they went. I only tried to use RTV for filling the relief holes and bend gaps. The aluminum cover look much better than aluminum/duct tape.

clean wing, no corrosion in the wings to worry about, by time you get on the highway it should clean off some the dust. Good luck with you project.

Is the oil cooler and and Battery relocated in SaberCowl version 1.0 ? (AFAIK) the Mid 60's battery location being behind Cylinder#4 is now in the tail ? I couldn't see the Oil cooler too well in the picture nor could I recall the head on picture showing the oil cooler's location. I the oil line but couldn't make out the location from the picture. James '67C