jamesm

I wasn't a fan of Cannon who did my L3 NGT9000 ADS-B install in 2016. From being way overcharged for the install to shoddy workmanship to avoiding me for warranty work. I believe they had sold business previously a couple of times. I heard they were good, apparently before 2016 they had gone downhill. Your new panel looks nice glad came out the way it did. Enjoy it. James '67C

I have debated what is the best way in doing this ... The Mid 1960's schematics seem to be straight forward but when I look at early 1980's I see too many lines that could lead me a stray. So is it best to have one that breaks down power for one layer and another layer specifics signals and perhaps 3rd misc signal that aren't your standard A429,RS232,RS485,RS422, CAN, Grey code, etc ,etc , etc. If you owned the airplane for years you probably have good idea what equipment has been added and removed over the years but if you are new owner or a little deterred by what might seem to be a complex maze of wires going everywhere or no where in some case depending how previous person dealt with that. Mine was fairly simple I was around for most or the work that was done to it. I think the only wires that haven't been replaced is Pitot heat, Stall warning fuel pump, and the big fat cables ground and power cables (starter alternator, and battery) and maybe portions of overhead/shoulder lighting torpedo lights. all else wiring has been replace with Tefzel MS grade wiring. James '67C

Not sure If this helps... Nor am I familiar with the relationship between G5 and G3x display (other than I am guessing it's some CAN interface) to GFC500 autopilot connection. I have '67C 2 G5's and GNC255&355/GNX375 GFC500. I use to and quite regularly get the yellow "HDG" display indication this what would happen to me before the GFC 500 was installed. I had the 2 G5 configuration. where the HSI on take off on it's own it would revert to ADI display. you could manually change it back but this was a new failure to me. This told me that something is wrong and at the time I was planning on having the GFC500 installed. I had been getting the Yellow high lighted "HDG" indication since it was installed 2018. I had tried what Garmin prescribed to me in Late 2020 below before the A/P was installed with no avail. So I figured that during the A/P install that they would be going through the wiring catch what ever was wrong. As turn out after the GFC500 was installed the A/P would disconnect on it's own. So I took back to Avionics place they swapped the ADI with HSI A/P functioned correctly no A/P disconnects. So my original G5 ADI had intermittently failed. I could see failure in the G5 SD card log files. The avionics installer had the G5 ADI exchanged for me and I reconfigured the ADI/ HSI back to original configuration but the "new" G5 was failing as well. So Garmin sent me a reconditioned G5 unit that finally fixed it. until about 3 months ago the HSI was reverting to ADI on it's own again. This time no obvious trace in the G5 SD log file of the failure. The avionics installer updated the software but still no avail. the Avionics installer claimed that they open all the connectors reassembled them and re-calibrated magnetometer. No yellow "HDG" indication and no A/P disconnects so far all is good. So it seems like are there similar failures from the Pilot/human interface prospective but at the avionics end different issues causing the problem(s). A bit suspicious of Garmin's avionics spares inventory tracking and quality control ability. Having gone through it with G5 and I had similar go around with GNC355 TX gain setting issue that would dump when it was powered off. Once powered the GNC355 back on and then no one could hear me transmit. you wouldn't necessarily catch this issue depending on the airspace you fly in. I spoke with one of the engineer's he acknowledge that this was a known issue with the GNC355's but only "few" of the early S/N units. My dumb luck I had gone through two of them before it was finally resolved. I believe that there was a software fixed this. It sucks paying out all this money a not having trust and having reliability issues in our A/P's and avionics. I hope they find the source of them problem and find a solid fix for it. James'67C

looks great

Now you are going to have to powder coat the gear doors and linkage to make them match . Looks great. !!! may it out last the original + 61 years.

Yes, I have them installed and yes the magneto rocker switches are cheap however the push to start button switch is a MS (Mil Spec) quality push button switch . The rocker switches are something along the lines of low end automotive quality grade but it had a STC'd and I didn't want to have deal with the headache at a later date. I really don't like the idea that push to start feature is not guarded very well. Could easily depending where mounted could get bumped. If I recall correctly I heard this or similar topic that came up on "Ask the A&P's" Podcast and Mike Bush seemed a bit skeptical l about taking any switches and making into Magneto switch as to whether it was a major or minor alteration/repair and a person brought up that ElectroAir switch solution had a STC . Either way I decide to get a 337 to avoid conflict in the future at least in theory. James '67C

Is there any disadvantages of have gone the a 337 route? I was looking from Garmin G5 (G3X)/ GFC500 and all other add on (magnetometer GMU11, GAD13, GAD29,etc etc) to make an entire "system" prospective. So the Bendix system would be 2 Magneto's (one with retard breaker) ,Push to start ignition switch and the shower of sparks starting vibrator and I went to the Electroair (cheap quality) rocker switches and push to start button since it had a STC. My rational was that I did it thinking that it would CYA if I ever sold the airplane or question by FAA inspector (highly unlikely). Plus I was thinking since the Bendix magneto system which included the SOS and ignition switch Bendix system which of course it has been bastardize when I went to SureFly Ignition several years ago. Just Curious, James '67C

I put in a Maxdim Dual Dimmer Controller in my '67C many years ago. Certain engine instruments like EI CGR30 required an external components as I recall it was a RC (Resistor and Capacitor) to make the display dim properly. I haven't had any problems once I added the extra external components. I think that made mention in the installation manual. A lot lighter than the old wire wound rheostat dimmer that came with mid 60's models Mooney's. I went a little overboard rewired the whole thing and added fuses and 2 independent buss bars for each channel. One dimmer circuit is radio and instruments and the other is circuit is for the overhead/shoulder. light dimming. Kind expensive but I got the one STC'd makes less suspect by the Feds and have it legal part of the paper work airplane if it ever gets sold. These are PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer's has great resolution of output. I think would depend on what you wire up to dimmer. The reason I bought the dual dimmer was to balance what is being dimmed and added two buss bars. On my '67C it's right above the pilot's left knee on one the support truss. I just expanded what Mooney already had there by adding the second buss bar and fuses add protection and call out on my particular dimmer installation. if the lighting doesn't look right or I don't like it I can move the lighting circuit to the over to other circuit in about a 2 minute to change. At one point I had LED and Incandescent lights on the same circuit no problem. Hope this helps, James '67C

Your Panel Looks nice. Have you considered flush mounting G5's ? I did on my '67C it looks nicer in my opinion. I did have my G5's sitting above panel for a couple of years. I changed mine because one of the RAM mount mounting option came real close to shearing off the knob of the G5. if I ever had to use full control input, highly unlikely but I decided to buy a little clearance so I flush mounted them. The other reason to mount every thing from the one direction is that if you need remove the panel. and you have some equipment the that mounts from the back and other equipment mount from the front. you have to disconnect pitot static lines and my understanding is technically that you would need to pitot static check the system again since you had to disconnect the pitot static lines. James

I was having hard time finding 'U' clip tinnerman nutplates, and got tried trying ones the dropped or gotta away ones. so I nutplated all mine. now I don't have to hear the sound of the falling tinnerman nutplate between cylinders and then playing a game of hide and seek trying find out where they went. I only tried to use RTV for filling the relief holes and bend gaps. The aluminum cover look much better than aluminum/duct tape.

clean wing, no corrosion in the wings to worry about, by time you get on the highway it should clean off some the dust. Good luck with you project.

Is the oil cooler and and Battery relocated in SaberCowl version 1.0 ? (AFAIK) the Mid 60's battery location being behind Cylinder#4 is now in the tail ? I couldn't see the Oil cooler too well in the picture nor could I recall the head on picture showing the oil cooler's location. I the oil line but couldn't make out the location from the picture. James '67C

Update: I was able to have someone hand prop the airplane to get me back home and now it's a part in the Hangar. The thought of having to remove the starter on the open ramp area haunts me to the core a logistics nightmare . I think the last person to remove the starter must have been the Engine overhaul shop ~12 years ago. Be honest I don't remember every having to remove a starter, other than removing the old OEM Prestolite starter when I installed the SkyTec starter about ~20 + years ago. I still remember having to have to remove the dreaded lower engine cowl, with me it's always seems to be a hour 3 to 4 hour dirty job and makes me cringe every time I have to remove it. Could I get a sanity check please ..... all kidding a side, There is no way of removing a SKyTec NL-149 high torque Starter from a 1967 M20C (O360-A1D) without having to removing the lower Cowl is this correct? Or is there some glaring obvious way of removal of the starter without having to remove the lower cowl? That either years of experience or wisdom or special tool(s),that I am not aware of that people know of? That would make job go by quicker and easier or a way to make me work smarter out there? Only one of the 4 mounting bolt/nuts was fairly easy to remove once the lower cowl was removed. The link bolt that ties the starter to alternator was self explanatory. I may have loosen the bolt while the lower cowl was still installed. But the 3 remaining nuts I had to use a 1/2" crows foot 3/8" drive to break them loose. Once the 3 remaining mounting nuts were loose just took a lot of time and patience from there. Thanks again for parting with your wisdom and sharing your experiences with me. James '67C

I have GNC255(Nav/Com), GNC355(GPS/COM), GNX375(GPS/XPDNR), GFC500 (Autopilot) and working on my instrument training. I finally figured out what works for me. I set the GNC355 to the Flight Plan page (Gives me DTK ETE Dist to the waypt in a tabular format) and then set my GNX375 as my GPS moving map which gives me a 2nd CDI (GPS Pink needle) and dist to destination airport and another 4 field that I can configured dist to destination, Xtke,2 other fields that escape me at the moment. I am curious to know if the GTN 650/750 or Avidyne 440/540/550 have a 4th column in flight plan page have an option for wpt Altitude for the flight plan page? Thanks, James '67C

Curious to know has anyone else had to replace the shear pin in skytec starter 149 NL high torque inline model? I think I just had mine fail on me . And left me stranded . If I recall correctly I have to remove the dreaded lower cowl . I didn’t notice anything abnormal it is just spinning when I try to start. TIA James ‘67c