CoachTom

second the 2 week time frame from shop to check. Only needed one flight for validation (FL10.5) as I was going x-country, landed, validated flight, then in two weeks, had my rebate check in hand... Very easy.

That looks nice and a clean install... Have you seen before and after amperage change with the new LED? Brighter NAV lights? My 1980 M20K will be up for the change this year. Already have swapped out a power supply and the other is flashing, though slower and slower. I have HID for taxi and landing, it significantly lowered my amp draw such that I usually fly day or night with the "headlights" on. All the best!

Turbo will be spinning at whichever speed it is allowed to spin at due to exhaust flow through its vanes. If the turbo was starved of oil, or if there was any bearing issue, the turbo would seize rather quickly due to its high RPM. It would not "fix" itself with time and oil... I would posit your first place to look would be at the wastegate's ability to open and close. I am sure if there was 60psi of oil pressure, the sequence of throttle application, the wastegate would operate normally, so look into the exhaust side to see if any carbon has built up restricting the full operation. The other issue would be that the wastegate was failing in an "open" position as you could not generate boost and subsequent take off power. If it was closed, you would have all the power and you would have to use he throttle to adjust the boost. hard to do and chase the power settings, but do-able. Mouse Milk is a lubricant designed for high heat applications and is usually sprayed into wastgates to aid in their operation. This is not an approved lubricant for Merlyn wastegates. Let us know how you faired with its resolution.

Sure... Will have to send later after I take them... Send me a PM with your email if you want.

Sometimes, running the autopilot through full range of operations will get it to run through the normal static locations on the servos where it usually is operated. While on the ground, set heading on teh control panel and engage autopilot, then full left deflection and let the servos track, then full right deflection. For the vertical operation, set your altitude hold while the A/P is engaged and then do the same thing as you did with the altimeter which will cycle the trim servo as well. Up and down/ left and right a few times... Good luck!

One way to clean the line as the "drains" are located directly under the injectors, is to go full rich/ full throttle and turn max boost pump on until the fuel comes out: then shut off boost pump. The fuel will pool/overflow the intake plenum where those drains are installed and ball bearing and assembly is cleaned by the 100ll cleaning solution. This is functioning as designed.

I pulled out all of the Royalite and replaced with Vantage Plane Plastic. The Royalite was breaking off like potato chips. I did not think that i wanted to overlay, re-cover, or repair the Royalite as it would only degrade further. If you do the Vantage route, buy all the pieces and parts at one time to save on the shipping and the ABS will last forever... I painted mine with SEM Paint, then covered with SEM Lacquer to give it a matte finish and protect the paint. TMcD 1980 M20K KHSV

PO Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk

I was at the cleanup of TWA flight 800. There was a mess both on the surface and on the sea floor. The debris field on the surface was enormous and covered many miles. The oil slick remained of both fuel and hydraulic for what seemed like weeks. But yes, I cannot see an aircraft of that size, even exhausting it's fuel and not disintegrating upon impact releasing its contents of luggage, oils, and anything else in the interior.... If a satellite can find a piece of flotsam 80 feet long, how can they not see a floating pile of debris, shimmering with oil and fuel... I don't know where it is, but the associated mess of an aircraft impacting the ocean is not evident... Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk

Could someone identify which Gascolator this is? Looking to replace the gaskets and screen but cannot find any markings on it. The Flap Position Indicator cable is secured by two Allen Screws. The smallest Allen Drive i have is 1.5mm. Does anyone know the actual size?

Here is what the front looks like, attached a picture. The back seems to have a twisted pair of wires disapearing into the abyss of the indicator. No bulb is apparant... Any clues to where this bulb might be or how to retrofit to the "newer" style??? Thanks, TMcD 1980 M20K

Any chance your Gascolator might have a slow leak that puddles in the belly panel and until you are on final, your flaps change the pressure flows of the cockpit and the vapors come up? This happened to me with a slow drip that i never noticed because i would always shut my fuel off after shut off, so no dripping until in flight. During flight, the smells would be vented or drawn out of the aircraft until final and then the negative pressure of the cabin would suck the smells in with cowl flaps open... I chased this down the long way from the wing roots on in to where i found the leak at the gascolator. New gaskets on the gascolator and no more smell. Hope you find it soon, TMcD 1980 M20K

Thanks... Did that first and both didn't look like the ones i have changed in the past, so, i thought they were too generic and wouldn't work. I am trying not to take the belly off to get a picture and model number of the gascolator... And that exhaust gasket should be the same for all the TSIO-360, but the RAPCO just didn't look right due to the compression ring. I will keep digging... Thanks! TMcD

1980 M20K Anyone have a stock number on the Gascolator gaskets? I also needed to get some exhaust flange gaskets but do not have a illustrated parts catalog for the engine. Continental TSIO-360-LB1 Any help is always greatly appreciated. V/R TMcD 1980 M20K

Don, Start at the connections on the Master. Make sure clean and tight... Radio Shack sells some stuff call "De-Oxit" and it cleans at the molecular level. Take the connections off and use a Dremel wire wheel and spray it with the DeOxit. If it was working normal and you had a slow degradation, probably resistance "somewhere" on the connection path... Not 100% sure on the elastomeric connection of the alternator, but it either works or it snaps... You can check by looking in the aft portion of the Alternator and rotating the prop to see if there is any slop in the movement. One other thing to check is if the voltage changes with the load. Turn everything on in cruise and watch your amp meter when you key the mike, you should see a dimming and or good discharge, but volts stay the same as you are pushing the charging system to the max... Let us know how you make out. Also, if the regulator was ever changed, it might be installed where your Loran or ADF used to be???? Take care, TMcD 1980 M20K

Don, It is a 1980 M20K. I believe i am going to have to do what Lee has had to do and drill out the rivets. The console is tight and no way in... Appreciate the help, but will still get you that photo so you can see it Don... V/R TMcD 1980 M20K

Crosswind: 90° to Approach: 15 G 20. What do you do? -Crab to "de-crab" at Threshold? -Slip on short final for ease of alignment? -Do you use full flaps (heard slower airspeed, the less effect the gust will have on wing)? -Half Flaps? -Increase of airspeed? After landing: aileron into wind (How much? full? half? Wait for wing to lift and then adjust?) Rudder authority? How hard do "feel" comfortable doing as the nose wheel turns into the cross wind and could start a ground loop? Do you dump the flaps as soon as you stabilize with all three wheels on the ground? Thanks! TMcD 1980 M20K KHSV

Same conditions with my 231... I do the same as John Lunseth, tolerate the condition, keep the RPM up to a tolerable level, put the consumers on as I take the active (landing light, NAV if at night, strobe is on from start). I try to stay off the brakes and prevent any glazing by light application or over heating by riding the brakes. After landing, mostly everything gets turned off except radio to monitor ground and Landing light if at night... TMcD 1980 M20K

Don, I will take a picture and show you that there isn't a bulb apparent. Just 4 screws on the clear plastic that holds the indicator. Thanks again!! TMcD

Thanks Don, Going to look for the inline fuse. Wonder why it has to be a "ceramic fuse" and cannot be replaced with a regular inline fuse??? I have attached the wiring diagram of the indicator light, but do not see any fuse??? As always, thanks for the support and help! V/R TMcD

Don, Did that years ago when we had all that fun trying to send files in those emails a few years back. I have it rolled up in the hangar and unfurl it on a wing and read it with a magnifying glass... some of those numbers are too small. If it is the bulb, how does anyone get at it? I have a part number of WI7046. TMcD 1980 M20K

Thanks Don... Going to look into the wiring diagram again, must have missed the ceramic fuse. Then after the eye test the wiring diagram gives to me, i believe i will be on my back looking for the fuse... Any clue where it might be? there are a few fuses under that panel. TMcD 1980 M20K

Any one have an "easy" way of changing the bulb behind the Flap Indicator? Seems to be almost impossible to get at... Thanks in advance!!! Tom McDermott 1980 M20K

I am with you John... There is so much with the small bore that is anomalous than with the regularity apparently observed in the big bore. Using your process of 11.5 gph at 29"MP then pushing up to 34" at the same fuel flow could only mean you weren't using all of the available fuel (right?). I am usually flying 10-12K or up at 17.5K: is the only difference to our engines being the outside air density relative for cooling? LOP should be the same due to the Turbo? This seems to be so easy to derive on paper, but when we try to actualize the concepts, there seems to be so many opinions both from the POH, APS graduates, and Continental. Then how low do you go with the RPM? 2200? 2300? 2400? with the TSIO-360?

I wonder as well as I know you are also wondering why you cannot run LOP. You have been trying for a while now haven't you? Any reason you run at 13.3? Is it the function of horsepower you are looking for? So, for all intents and purposes, if you dial in the mixture at 11.5 gph, you are producing 75% power. By increasing the MP, all you are doing is leaning out the actual burned mixture because you are using more air, technically getting leaner? By getting leaner, the CHT should descend the more MP you add until it gets rough (too lean). I am usually flying between 10.5 and 11.5 depending on direction unless i am heading to NY which is a 4 hour flight at 17.5. I use the 252 charts for power (2400 rpm\ 29.6 MP\ 12.7 GPH) but for my low altitude flights, i am going to try the 2400\ 11.5\ and 32 to 34 to see what my temps are. Number 1 CHT is always 30° higher than all of the other CHT's. Only thgink it has to be the Merlyn sitting underneath and Turbo restricting airflow... Any ideas on that would help too... Thanks again. Maybe i can get to a point where i won't have to fly with cowl flaps in trail. TMcD