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N207LS

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Everything posted by N207LS

  1. I have been happy with the reseal from Wet Wingologists at KFXE. Work is good and Edison was a fair and honest person to deal with. I am almost 3 years with no leaks... Maybe a good vacation to visit South Florida and have the work done while you enjoy the beach...
  2. I have not done my interior yet, but based on my paint work, Tejas is the only shop that I will let do it... These guys are real pros. If my interior is 1/2 as good as my paint job, I'll be more than elated... Take a look at my photos and you will see my paint work. Best of luck...
  3. I too have the retractable step and love the simplicity of it. I did have to replace the tubing to is as mine was deteriorating (found two annuals ago). Relatively minimal work... The easiest way to check if it is retracting is to simply to start up and have someone watch it before climbing in the plane (please no comments about climbing into an aircraft while it is running, I understand the issues, however have been doing this for some time, just be extra careful when you do it...). I can not understand why Mooney stopped using this design. It is simple, easy to maintain, adds a few MPH, and weighs little. I guess that is why they call it progress?
  4. I did all of my instrument training in my G model with a working wing leveler (on during my Checkride). Like you describe, my finger naturally holds the button down during takeoff and landings. My examiner had lots of vintage Mooney time and used to train in fixed gear Mooneys. He also showed me a better way to maneuver the manual gear (by hilding my hand upside down and engaging the button with the palm (lower left hand ball of my hand), to be able to swim the bar to retract the gear in one fluid motion taking about 1.5 seconds to fully retract the gear and ger your hand back on the throttle during initial climb. Also, I had a working ADF and a non-approach certified GPS at the time, so I was lucky enough to have to perform an NDB approach in actual conditions. Enjoy your training and the learning process of instrument flying.
  5. Congratulations, she is adorable! Let us all know about her first flight! Personally, I did my first flight in my father's Mooney (a 1969 C model N9214V) when I was just over 2 months old (late February 1971). I have great memories of flying accross the US in our Mooney and ultimately it was the driving force for me to buy mine... Aaron
  6. I echo Hank's starting advice from MAPA... My G (O-360) has only been in cold weather a few times. Being based in Florida we rarely have to think about cold start procedures, but a couple of weeks ago it was in the 40's here and the cold start procedure was essential. As far as hot starts go, I have not had any issue as long as you do not leave the fuel pump on and do not pump the throttle. On the other hand, your symptoms sound like a possible voltage regulator issue (given that the ammeter never went back to zero). Take a look at your aircraft log book and see how old your voltage regulator is. When I had a similar issue I found out that it was my voltage regulator. With a little detective work in the log books, I also found out that it had never been changed and it was original to 1968. I guess that you can't complain about a electrical part that is 35 years old and finally breaks. It's a fairly cheap part from Aircraft Spruce and takes just a few minutes to change. Aaron
  7. Brooksville is north of Tampa and not on the water, one of the better spots around here for minimal salt air climate. Add to that a hangar and much better! As far as a prop strike inspection goes, it is just that an inspection. You will most likely get a lot of opinions on this one, but I am in the camp of buying airplanes with NDH. I know that planes, like cars, can be repaired properly, but I prefer to buy an airplane that has no damage history. Check the logs thoroughly to see what other repairs were made at the time of the prop strike. I would also make sure to find out the cause of the prop strike. Best of luck. I would also suggest a thorough pre-buy on any airplane. Aaron
  8. Do you know what airport in Tampa and how long in the hangar there? I live in St. Petersburg, FL and there are better and worse airports to hanagar a plane, as far as salt air conditions go. All of the air here is "salty" but there are 4 airports that are literally on Tampa Bay and completely subject to much worse salt conditions than some others in the area. The four airports with a large GA presence that are directly on the bay are Albert Whitted, St Pete-Clearwater International, Peter O. Knight, and Airport Manatee. At any of these 4 airports the plane would be subjected to much worse salt conditions than if at one of the others further inland. Hope this helps. Aaron
  9. My wife and I fly down there regularly. It is only about 1 hr 40 mins for me. Let me know what you are looking for and I'll be happy to help out. I have been going there for years... My Favorite Hotel... Santa Maria Suites (beautiful big modern suites) or La Concha (best location in town) Restaurants... Louies Backyard (nicest restaurant on the island with amazing beachfront location, but pricey), Michaels (nice fine dining), Blue Heaven (breakfast), and Blonde Giraffe (the best Key Lime Pie on a stick) Bars... Tons to choose from, but don't miss sunset from the rooftop bar at La Concha... It is hard not to have fun in Key West... Flying into Key West is easy. The only FBO is Island City Flying Service and they work out of a small building on the ramp. All you do is taxi up and they will park you and tow your plane to a tie down. Once inside, just ask them to call you a cab to town. No need to rent a car as parking in key west is a HUGE hassle. You can walk the whole town while you are there. Nothing is cheap in Key West including avgas. Also, I would suggest that you take a low (1000') or lower flight up the keys. It is absolutely beautiful. It is worth a lunch stop in Marathon to go to the Island Tiki (try their famous Deep Fried Key Lime Pie for dessert) (they have much cheaper 100LL than Key West, so top off there). Just make sure that you fly along the south east side of the islands to remain clear of the 10,000' Fixed Balloon just North of Key West and on the Northwest side of Hwy 1. Feel free to PM me for additional information. Have a great trip... Aaron
  10. I have a couple of good photos on my gallery, N207LS, then Tejas Aero Services folder. My cowl has had the washers in place since I bought the plane. They are the dimple washers on all 4 screws. I assumed that it was how it came originally. I did not do the mod, as it was done by the former owner. The only prolem that I did have was some cracking issues (that are now all corrected since the paint job and fiberglass work from the back side of the mod). Sorry that I couldn't be more help. Aaron
  11. Congrats. Now that you have the ticket, I suggest that you use it as much as the sunny Hawaiian islands allow. The more that you use it, the better you are at it. Now that it is all fresh, focus on staying not just current, but truly proficient. Best of luck! Aaron
  12. I have the ARI mod on my 68 G. This does make it look a lot more like a 201 cowl than the others that only close one side. My mod was done when I bought the plane, so I am not sure of his actual cost (with installation). The only drawback is that it is fiberglass and with time had a few cracks. When I had the plane repainted, we did all of the fiberglass repairs from the back side. It is now crack free and I hope that it stays that way. There are pics of the mod in my gallery. Best of luck Aaron
  13. It sounds like you are going through the right process. I echo the sentiments of the F crew. I can also assure you that my G is as fast as many F's (powerflow & all the speed mods). I cruise at 140kts at 5,000', no wind, 23" and 2300 RPM. I also burn arund 8.7-8.9 GPH at that setting (taken off my fuel flow analyzer). If you back the power off 130 kts at 19" and 2300 RPM and burn 7 GPH. I know that most people on this board fly at much higher power settings, but it depends on how much $$ you want to spend and why you are flying (if I am on a long trip and need to get there then 23 squared, if I am Sunday flying then 19"/2300 rpm). Just a thought, but if you consider a slightly older airframe, you will most likely get a lot of extra toys for the money (430 or 530W, panel upgrades, etc). Regardless of which Mooney you choose you will be happy with the performance. There are also some old posts on things to look for. I really suggest that you dig them up. I don't want to rehash everything here, but in the current economy, you will find the plane that you want if you keep looking... Regardless of your choice of Mooney make sure that the big ticket items are in good working order... Best of luck. Aaron
  14. MOA is based in Nokomis, FL (Venice, FL) and features lots of articles by Coy Jacobs. Read into this as you will, but Coy is the owner of Mooney Mart and MOA appears to be nothing more than a vehicle for them. There are some interesting articles in their old magazines, but always some unwritten ads for Mooney Mart... I am not sure that there is much substance beyond that. MAPA seemsRealize that this is only one persons opinion though. Aaron
  15. Sven, Great story! I never knew about the fixed gear Mooney until I did my instrument check ride with an examiner named Dave Whitman in Sarasota, FL. When Dave got in my Mooney and saw the johnson bar, he began to share stories of his early flight school training days of the fixed gear Mooneys. He told me that he trained several pilots/owners of these planes. He explained that they were initially designed to be converted to a Johnson Bar when the owner/pilot felt comfortable enough with the airplane. It is really great to see that not all were converted. As a vintage Mooney owner, I appreciate your sharing the historical prospective on these unique Mooney's. It would be great to hear if anyone on this board has any knowlege of the pressurized Mooneys that are still flying as well. I know of one that is on the ground not flying in Wimauma, FL, but is still undergoing restoration (and has been for the last several years). Aaron
  16. What you are looking to do will determine the price... If you just want to remove 1 old nav/com and replace with a 430 or 530 and new garmin gs/cdi head then your cost is much less. If you are considering a complete panel redo (new custom fabricated panel, new 430W/530W, new audio panel w/ new intercom jacks, GTX 330 (for TIS feature on 430/530), Aspen, Fuel Flow monitor interfaced with 430/530W, New Engine Analyzer, Voice Annunciator, etc...) then you are looking at something completely different. If you are considering the former, realize that you will still have an outdated panel with a 430/530 in it (this is what I would consider "lipstick avionics"). It is similar to a poor sand and paint job just to say that a plane has "new paint", or taking the interior out and having it recovered with cheap auto upholstry at a local auto shop and calling it a "new interior". If you are considering the latter, you will have a true "modern" panel, however your cost will most likely run upward of $25-30k. I am sure that you can find and A&P to do the work, but the reality is that higher end avionics work is most likely best left in the hands of the true avionics professionals. With a little bit of research, you can most likely find a top level, somewhat local (very important if you ever have to get work done after the fact) avionics shop. My avionics shop is about a 45 minute flight and their service after the sale is what keeps me coming back to them. Their prices were competitive, but not necessarily the cheapest. Since my panel redo, they have had to make two separate adjustments and replace the audio panel under warranty. All were at no cost to me, and only having to fly 45 minutes made it quite easy. Before chooing to redo my panel, I looked at several "newer" Mooney's that had 430 or 530s with an outdated panel and decided that I was better served just re-doing what I had to get exactly what I wanted. This was more costly, but ultimately I realized that my plane was not going to be for sale anytime soon and that I would just have to "fly the value" out of the electronics. Best of luck with your decision. Aaron
  17. Parker, I agree that it is a deal. It has been for sale for at least 6 months and has had a sign hanging on the bulletin board at KSPG since March/April timeframe. Originally at $89k, now at 79k, my only guess is that you could buy it for $69k ish. I have seen it and if I didnt have mine, would consider it. Still needs WAAS upgrade, new audio panel, etc. But nevertheless, the Lopresti cowl is worth $15k alone. Aaron
  18. Airplane is just up the road from me and I actually looked at it quite briefly (My wife's plane used to be based at the same airport). It was used as a college trainer (accounts for the hight time). It is a very nice plane with some serious money invested in it, however I did not ever have my A&P look at it, as I decided against it, versus my redo. The cowl was done at Mooney Mart in Venice, FL (one of the things that scared me), but all looked okay. It has been for sale for a while and I think that this point a lower offer might actually get accepted. I am sure that my A&P (who maintains several Mooney's) would be able to go look at it for you if you wished. PM me and I'll send you his number or email address if you want (he is a real professional and has maintained my plane for the past three years). Best of luck. Aaron
  19. I created a similar stick with a home depot paint stick (free). Took a dry tank (after the sealant repair a few years ago) and added 5 gal, and then 2 gal at a time after that until full. Then went and got another 10-12 paint sticks and just marked them with the same lines. I now have the EI Fuel Flow which is even more accurate (although it took resetting the K factor several flights to get within .2 gal of actual after a long flight), but I still check with the sticks each time (out of redundancy) before I fly. I have new sending units (done at my strip and reseal) and actual gauges are still not much better than semi accurate. I really use the EI and the sticks as my "primary gauge" for heavy loads and accurate planning. Aaron
  20. I have the EI UBg 16, Fueld Flow analyzer, and voice annunciator. I have had all of these for over two years and they have been trouble free. My regular A&P is both a JPI and EI distributor and suggested the EI combo at the time, as they had factory rebates for buying the package. I know if several other installs that he did (C182RG & Piper Saratoga) that have the same combo that I have. To my knowlege all are working perfectly. Aaron
  21. I like all the suggestions and ideas here. There are a few that I will add to my shutdown list (like mag check, and close the vents), but a couple of others that I do and have on my shutdown list is to set the trim for takeoff, DG to Mag Compass, and AI to level. This means that when I get in the plane, all is set and should just be checked, instead of having to be adjusted prior to takeoff. Aaron
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