Fix

Can you Swap the Mags from Left to Right and vice versa? If the problems moves you know it's the mag...

I would have no problems to donate/subscribe yearly $1000-2000 if it was directly to Mooney. Now I'm financing a another company that would make profit from our donations/subscriptions.

I would be more happy to pay directly to Mooney as an supporter than to Lasar. Now I feel the money get into the wrong pockets. As I wrote before Lasar did markup a part with 60% just to drop ship it directly to me. Would be 100times better if Mooney took 40% of that money, and then Lasar had a normal cut like 20% instead. Will see what happens, but for $200 each month and only 10% discount on parts not worth it. Let's say I will need a part in 2 years that cost $5000, then I get 10% ($500 off) and then pay $4800 in "subscription fees" = $4500+4800 = $9300... Guess it's better to pay full price instead. Why not add an "supporter" subscription for $10-$30 instead to help out in general.

Would be interesting to gather some more information here... I assume regarding EGT is where the probes are mounted/drilled in the exhaust. Or are they "factory drilled" at exactly the same position? Also with TIT Probe, is that location always the same on all -MB / -SB

I replaced my Stock TIT prove around 60h ago, so I expect it should be OK. I've noticed that if I calibrate my JPI TIT after the stock TIT, they will differ depending on what altitude I fly on. If I calibrate it for at 4000ft at some power setting, JPI TIT will under read if I then fly higher, and vice versa. Right now I think it's calibrated so it's not showing "too low" values on the JPI, where I think it's better to be safe than sorry. Used flower pot, digital meter and spark plug pin. If I didn't mess up, my mags should be timed within 0.5degress. At FL 160 where the turbo have to work harder I have: 25" 2500 12.6g/h (65% ROP) EGT: Highest 1418f - Lowest 1353f - TIT: 1499f CHT: 359f - 330f - - 29.5" 2300 10.1 (65% LOP) EGT: Highest 1493f - Lowest 1406f - TIT: 1599f CHT: 353f - 316f My Cyl 6 EGT is lowest by ~40f from the others. *** I've checked some other flights at FL140. There my TIT was ~1500F at 25" 2500 12.6g/h

Update: New Maggie Harness, Gami Injectors and new Tempest Fine wire Spark plugs... Engine runs runs smoother, more even RPM drop at Engine run up. Also idle is stable after a flight when taxi, before I had some issues were I needed to add some rpm to have it running and not quit. Guess the harness fixed that. Did some Gami spread test and most likely in average I have 0.7 with Gami. Cyl 1 & 3 is to lean. Hopefully Gami will send replacement, they are not the fastest to respond. LOP, is not perfect but now I can at least fly LOP 29.5" 2300 10.1 (LOP 5-15 degree). After some fiddling I can get engine to run OK, but I expect improvement when I get replacement injectors. On my from ESSB to ESML I got a new speed record at FL160. 29" 2300rpm 10.1g/h, Cowl flap closed, All CHT under 369f, TIT ~1590-1600f Tail winds are nice :-)

30% increase is maybe reasonable if we can get the parts we need. But, when I ordered a part from Lasar and Mooney sent it directly to me the forgot to remove the invoice to Lasar. Sadly Lasar added 60% on top of the Mooney price just to order that part. Sure, Price and Demand... But 60% markup is ridiculous... and now an additional 30% on that. I would be much more happy to give that 60% markup directly to Mooney instead of Lasar.

If you can consider an M20K 252 Encore or 252 with Encore upgrade you can load it pretty good.

My road to getting my -SB engine to run smoothly at LOP continues... I now got my Maggie Harness (Thanks Paul for assisting) and also my Gami Injectors arrived. I've suspected lots of things, but made the decision to change ignition harness to be 100% that there wasn't any issues. They looked fine when we looked at it, but since left mag even when I changed it and also did an 500h inspection didn't solve rough LOP I decided to buy one anyway. What can you say, I'm glad that I did order a new harness, since there was damage to the old one on several wires. One of the wires were actually really bad, and was in direct contact with metal. This was 5B on Left Mag... rest of chaffed wires were on bottom plugs too. This was only on ~550h since new! All damage was in clamp. (You needed to remove wire to see it) Wire with most chaffing was forced against an rivet due to wrong installation and wrong clamp. Also impossible to see without removing wire. Even if this don't solve my LOP issues, I now have a fresh and correctly installed ignition harness. Started to install new harness yesterday. Gami injectors will be next up. Cylinder 5B. Severe chaffing, through outer rubber and braid shield... Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. When the installed new engine, they used old/wrong clamps that put lots of force on wires. On several wires when clamped together. After some hours of careful wire planning it slowly looks much better. Now all Ignition wires will be in own clamps, and all JPI probe wires in separate clamps.

Will check it next time.

There are actually more one more supplier of TEL in Asia according to Shell. (Can be found in their application in EU) Shell is also buying from that supplier. (If I didn't read it wrong)

Put back my newly inspected 500h Slick Mag. Engine runs more smoothly in general, but didn't solve my LOP issue. I can get it running 29" 2300 10.1 but it's not 100% smooth as I would like. Good news is that my GAMI Injectors will be sent out this week. Another good news is I had an little oil leak that been hard to find over the last 12 months. If my detective work is correct, then it was leaking from the Oil Stick rubber hose. Fitted 2x new clamps and a new rubber hose and made sure that the metal tubes got connected as they should. Last flight over an hour it appear that it stopped leaking... It was not leaking much, but it flying around everywhere making a mess.

For -SB I have the following settings: ROP (Update) 65% Key 50 25" 2500 12.5g/h (This is what I'm using) 75% Key 53 28" 2500 13.9h/h (Only tested this setting once or twice, 65% is enough...) My normal setting: At 15000 Feet (FL 150) with 65% ROP, 12.6g/h TIT ~1500, CHT 345-367F Cowl flaps closed Airspeed: ~170KTAS Soon as I get my LOP working as it should I suspect I will use LOP instead.

Sent my Slick Mag for 500h inspection, came back some days ago. Will put it back next week. Also ordered a Maggie Harness cables, hopefully they will be ready to ship next coming weeks. I noticed that the I don't have standard Adel clamps on one side of the engine. There is some similar clamp, that they do really put pressure/force on the cables. More than I think is healthy for the cables. Since I changed the Slick Mag (Left side) and it behaves exactly the same as the other, I'm starting to suspect that the harness is bad. Yesterday I got it running smoothly at 28" 2300rpm with 10.1g/h.

Can you send to Europe?

My A&P removed one at last annual, just to check and lubricate. They are easy to remove by yourself. Check the Youtube video above first. There are not many parts that should interfere why they don't close fully. There are no switch or something else that normally blocks. Check for a loose cable or similar...

That lots of oil engine spit out. I filled up with with 7qts + some camguard at annual. After 21h I have 6qts of oil. Topped up once at around 10h with 0.5qts. So that would equal roughly to: 0.7qts / 10h. Soon time to change oil anyway.

Quick update: I need to do some more testing, but I think I made some progress. Not there yet, but moving forward. I suspect that my Slick Mag that has 415h has either some internal timing error or/and e-gap out of spec or something when it get hot. I've sent the Mag for a 500h inspection, and looking forward to see what they find and then continue testing.

Slick Mag is re-timed to 20.1 degrees. I hope to have it back together tomorrow, but weather next week is not good.

Since I suspected that Cyl 2 is the one that might have had an induction leak I removed the Air intake tube just to see if there was any damage to the gasket. Gasket looked fine with any damage. I did notice that one side of the gasket it was burnt/stick to the cylinder as expected, but on the other side it was loose and there was some signs of leakage. Some slight discoloration on the cylinder, could be a illusion but gasket is now changed anyway.

I'm double checking everything for the moment, found some things that might messing with me. Checking the spark plug gap. Now all to 100% are 0.017-0.018" Ohm measured all spark plugs, lowest 0.56K, most around 0.8k-1.5k and one at 4k. First I found the non tightened nuts on all six air intake tubes, that absolutely can be the problem. Today noticed that the inner nuts on exhaust wasn't tightened as the outer nuts. Don't think this is a problem, more that they should be tightened and not good since it's the exhaust. Also EGT Probe clamps wasn't that tightened as I would like them to be. Don't think it affect my LOP but now they are tightened too. 2 cylinder drain nuts needed some love... My engine has 6 new cylinder ~170h ago and and things that you need to remove is not tightened as it should afterwards. Sloppy or not sloppy by the mechanic, but I'm starting to see that a pattern here. Hopefully everything is ready tomorrow for a quick test flight.

Will test 29/2350 10.4 This was also suggested by Kortopates. I have a gami spread of 0.5 so that should be enough. My best guess is that I have a small induction leak.

I hope that I can fly on Friday and do some testing. Especially after finding all nuts not tighten as they should on the all air intake tubes.

I had low reading all time. I started to notice it this January when it was cold out side and the oil temp lower than I would expect. And before cover the Oil Cooler I wanted to know if my oil temp was correct. I assume that the needle should stand straight up when you have 180f. Hope to test fly on Friday.

I assume it will be both good and bad... Good: Since Lasar has good knowledge about Mooney parts, and good service. Bad: I saw their markup on a part I bought from them, that Mooney sent directly to me and forgot to remove the invoice. So the prices will most likley go up 50%...