Fix

For -SB I have the following settings: ROP 65% Key 50 25" 2500 12.5g/h 75% Key 53 28" 2500 14,5h/h At 15000 Feet (FL 150) with 65% ROP, 12.6g/h TIT ~1500, CHT 345-367F

Sent my Slick Mag for 500h inspection, came back some days ago. Will put it back next week. Also ordered a Maggie Harness cables, hopefully they will be ready to ship next coming weeks. I noticed that the I don't have standard Adel clamps on one side of the engine. There is some similar clamp, that they do really put pressure/force on the cables. More than I think is healthy for the cables. Since I changed the Slick Mag (Left side) and it behaves exactly the same as the other, I'm starting to suspect that the harness is bad. Yesterday I got it running smoothly at 28" 2300rpm with 10.1g/h.

Can you send to Europe?

My A&P removed one at last annual, just to check and lubricate. They are easy to remove by yourself. Check the Youtube video above first. There are not many parts that should interfere why they don't close fully. There are no switch or something else that normally blocks. Check for a loose cable or similar...

That lots of oil engine spit out. I filled up with with 7qts + some camguard at annual. After 21h I have 6qts of oil. Topped up once at around 10h with 0.5qts. So that would equal roughly to: 0.7qts / 10h. Soon time to change oil anyway.

Quick update: I need to do some more testing, but I think I made some progress. Not there yet, but moving forward. I suspect that my Slick Mag that has 415h has either some internal timing error or/and e-gap out of spec or something when it get hot. I've sent the Mag for a 500h inspection, and looking forward to see what they find and then continue testing.

Slick Mag is re-timed to 20.1 degrees. I hope to have it back together tomorrow, but weather next week is not good.

Since I suspected that Cyl 2 is the one that might have had an induction leak I removed the Air intake tube just to see if there was any damage to the gasket. Gasket looked fine with any damage. I did notice that one side of the gasket it was burnt/stick to the cylinder as expected, but on the other side it was loose and there was some signs of leakage. Some slight discoloration on the cylinder, could be a illusion but gasket is now changed anyway.

I'm double checking everything for the moment, found some things that might messing with me. Checking the spark plug gap. Now all to 100% are 0.017-0.018" Ohm measured all spark plugs, lowest 0.56K, most around 0.8k-1.5k and one at 4k. First I found the non tightened nuts on all six air intake tubes, that absolutely can be the problem. Today noticed that the inner nuts on exhaust wasn't tightened as the outer nuts. Don't think this is a problem, more that they should be tightened and not good since it's the exhaust. Also EGT Probe clamps wasn't that tightened as I would like them to be. Don't think it affect my LOP but now they are tightened too. 2 cylinder drain nuts needed some love... My engine has 6 new cylinder ~170h ago and and things that you need to remove is not tightened as it should afterwards. Sloppy or not sloppy by the mechanic, but I'm starting to see that a pattern here. Hopefully everything is ready tomorrow for a quick test flight.

Will test 29/2350 10.4 This was also suggested by Kortopates. I have a gami spread of 0.5 so that should be enough. My best guess is that I have a small induction leak.

I hope that I can fly on Friday and do some testing. Especially after finding all nuts not tighten as they should on the all air intake tubes.

I had low reading all time. I started to notice it this January when it was cold out side and the oil temp lower than I would expect. And before cover the Oil Cooler I wanted to know if my oil temp was correct. I assume that the needle should stand straight up when you have 180f. Hope to test fly on Friday.

I assume it will be both good and bad... Good: Since Lasar has good knowledge about Mooney parts, and good service. Bad: I saw their markup on a part I bought from them, that Mooney sent directly to me and forgot to remove the invoice. So the prices will most likley go up 50%...

At annual we found it's location well hidden on the oil cooler and not funny to remove just to check it. Also the connection on top of the probe was loose, and surely why it's not working as it should or at least near end of it's life. Didn't want to mess with it there since I didn't have a replacement. Yesterday I finally changed my Oil temp probe, with correct tools, time and headache... I did a quick ohm reading of the old and new probe. Old probe was around 780ohm and new was 620ohm in ambient temperature. Less ohm = higher reading on the gauge, so this appears to be correct. Will test fly next couple of days to verify. M20K 252 - TSIO 360 SB Part: Rochester 3080-37 Oil Temp Probe 5/8-18 Nf3 100-250F Cover sheet is removed...

1. Will test the 10" at 10000feet. 2. When I do a LOP mag test I can feel that it's rough, and when looking at engine data I can't see it. Or any "suspect" cylinder. Might be that more than one cylinder is causing it. 3. Didn't check all of that. Will do it soon as I can. Paul K suggested me to check Cylinder drains too.

I assume that 27.5 and 2500, 10.4GPH more or less same at 29.5/2300/10.4? I tried to fine tune with different MP/RPM but with no bigger success. Maybe 2400rpm and 26MP was slightly better. Pretty sure I tested 29" / 2300 / 10.4 but if not mistaken my engine was too rough. I think my problem right now is that I can't get LOP enough due to something. And if I have higher MP then I get more LOP and more rough. Will do some testing soon as I have aircraft back together.

I double checked my timing. TDC is spot on. With in 0.1 degrees. SureFly is 0 degrees Within 0.1 degrees. Slick Mag is 19.4 / 19.5 degree So it must be within limits in general. But is it better to have 20.5 degree than 19.4 degrees for LOP ?

I have a GAMI spread of 0.5GPH more or less when I tested. (tested several times) Can't get it running smooth as I want at higher altitudes. 4000-> I tried some things that Paul K suggested to me, but still it's not running smooth as I want. Either my GAMI spread is to high or there are other things messing with me. Have some ideas why it not running smooth and I'm trying to check them one by one. Can see on my engine data that when I run for example 25" 2500rpm with 12.6g/h (65% ROP) I have my EGT values per each cylinder always in the same order. I also have that same EGT order with 11.6g/g or if I fly FT/2600/26g/h. Engine here is smooth. Soon as I lean my mixture to 26" 2500rpm with 10.4g/h (10.1-10.3) my cylinders change EGT wise and I starting to get roughness/vibrations. I tried different settings trying to find a sweet spot, but with no success. So if someone can share some flights on Savvy I can try to compare if how other engines behave and that give me some clues. I might suspect that there is a Induction leak on Cylinder 2 and maybe Cylinder 3 since those are the ones that changes. That's why it would be very interesting to take a look on some engine data. I have and/or tested. Tempest Fine Wire plus. (gapped to 0.017") - ~500h on them since new, looks good. SureFly + Slick 6324 (First I have 2x Slick Mags, one of them dropped little much, but within limit. Bought an SureFly, but no change with LOP) Both mags are timed with in 0.5 degrees (if we didn't do anything wrong. Used timing pin and digital measure) We did a Induction test, but couldn't see any leakage with soapy water and pressure also didn't change) No other obvious signs that could give any leads. Tighten the screws of the rubber fittings to the inductions tubes. What I found that might be part of the problem. I haven't test flown after this. The other day I thought that I might check the firm/tightness of the Inductions tubes nuts at the cylinders. Those was quite loose, if you ask me way to loose. Not that I could use my finders to loose them, but they were way to loose. So I tighten all of them and this could absolutely be the source of problem. If there is a induction leak it's not much, and since the nuts were looser than they should and with heat and vibrations there is a small chance that this is the problem. Don't have high hopes that this is the problem, but glad I found it anyway. If anyone has any other good ideas or thoughts...

Most likley one of the fuel senders in the fuel tank. It's quite easy to test them on ground.

Do anyone of my fellow TSIO 360-SB owners (MB works too) have engine data to share? I'm trying to get my engine to run LOP smooth as I can and need some input for reference. I would be happy if you can share some flights with me where you have. 4000-6000 feet, 26" / 2500 rpm with 10.4g/h (LOP) and 12.6g/h (ROP) and if you have same for 12000feet->

Where does it says/specifies that you need to replace Riveted V-Band Clamps after just re-torques? Especially for V-Band Clamp - Part #670105

Good question... But it starts what you paid for your aircraft. Then depends on what status it is in, Condition, Engine hours etc. Then you have the Market price for similar aircrafts. Then you get an idea if it's worth "investing" or just sell it as it is and buy another better from start. So if you have a keeper and you have it in the right price, then it's worth investing in it. We will have Avgas 100LL until 2027 in Europe, and then most likely "EU" will follow that "USA" is doing. If there ain't any 100LL replacement then USA will most likley continue to supply 100LL and then EU will follow. There is NO BAN in EU for 100LL or use of TEL in Avgas 100LL and also no BAN for concentrated TEL. We now have permission to use TEL, and sure maybe Shell etc won't get permission to handle concentrated TEL in future. Then we will import 100LL from USA instead like we used to do before. Because there is no permission needed to handle 100LL or TEL in low concentrations. Also seen that there is only one supplier for TEL in the world. That might also not be true, there a supplier in ASIA too according to Shell in the application to ECHA. What does that help, it also burns 100LL 99% of all piston aircraft's with more than 200HP burns 100LL

How much does it slip? Is it like Prop is not moving at all. Prop starts to move and then a quick slip and then as normal again? Random events, or when it starts happening it there?

When it slip, how does it look, feel, notice it's slipping?

If the remaining bit that is left works as it should, then most likley someone use to much force.