Fix

I also have some problems to get the Oil temp up when it's cold or less than 10c. Suspect that AeroShell 100W is little bit to cold to flow properly then, giving me MP fluctuations. Philips X/C 20W50 would most probably work much better, and I will change next week or at next annual and use it both summer/winter. Have 7x AeroShell 80W on the shelf that I might use this time, since I won't fly many hours until my Annual i February due to bad weather here.

Then I can use AeroShell 80W Plus if I want to use "two" different oils. Will use Philips X/C 20W50 + Camguard all the time in future.

In the Service Manual it says that the Cowl Flap should be "flush" when fully closed. Will test to open it 1/2" next time...

I also never have any CHT issues in Climb or Cruise with Cowl Flap fully close in cruise. 350-370f in summer.

I was about to make a post some weeks ago about this topic, saw in that there was a Post in another section. But would like to talk more specific about M20K. Is there a "official" Winterization Kit? I found something about it on some Mooney document, but could find anything when I Google the part #. Here at Northern Europe we get semi cold weather from October to March. I use AeroShell 100W Plus + Camguard and this authumn I didn't change to Aeroshell 80W Plus and I started to get some "issues" with fluctuating MP when OAT were about 10 Celsius. When below >10 Celsius I pre-heat my engine, but it didn't help with the fluctuating MP. So I started to cover my oil cooler about 40% with Aluminum foil tape. When I did a flight at FL100 with OAT around 7-9 Celsius engine temp was fine and MP stable. But when OAT was around 5-6 on ground it started to fluctuate again. Will change oil next week to Philips X/C 20W50 + Camguard so I can use same oil whole year without changing from 100W to 80W and vice versa. Questions: How much of the oil cooler is OK to cover? - I've found somewhere that some covered whole oil cooler, too much? (depending on OAT) Is there a good way to check the Oil Temp Probe (Stock) - Measure Ohm and heat it? And what Ohm/Temp on the probe to check the Oil Temp gauge (Stock) so it's correct.

Found it on Facebook from an serious flight enthusiast page. Where I asked him where he found it. Source: Aviation News (Key Publishing) November Issue I can’t see any reference on their webpage since it’s a paid subscription. I

Fake? Aviation News (Key Publishing) November Issue. Found it on Facebook.

Updated my Gami Injectors and did a quick flight today. Now I have a Gami spread of 0.3 - 0.4g/h instead of 0.6-0.7g/h. Will do a proper test flight soon as the weather is favorable here again.

I've timed my mags several times with flower pot and digital meter and piston pin. Maybe I messed up, I've double checked it. At least both mags are even, maybe could try to adjust both mags 1 degree. At 29" 2300 RPM at 10.1g/h LOP I my TIT show just above 1550f on the analog gauge, most likley 1510-1560f range. Maybe it's higher than "normal", but on the other side it's still well below 1650f and also if the reading is "higher" even if the real TIT should be lower I have a margin to ~1600-1610f were my personal limit is. If I had a very low TIT with a functional TIT probe, then I might get above 1650f with out knowing it? On the Garmin G500, do you calibrate the TIT against the analog gauge or how does it work? I can also see that your EGT is lower than mine, what would be normal EGT temp? Is there any difference between JPI probes and Garmin Probes and the original Probes with read out?

Had another trip last friday at FL100. This flight my engine behaved as it should :-) FL100 29.5" 2300rpm @ 9.9-10.0g/h TAS: ~163KT TIT: ~1575F Will install my replacement Gami Injectors next week for Cyl 1 + 3 and it will be interesting to see how engine behaves then and if I get below 0.5g.

Can you Swap the Mags from Left to Right and vice versa? If the problems moves you know it's the mag...

I would have no problems to donate/subscribe yearly $1000-2000 if it was directly to Mooney. Now I'm financing a another company that would make profit from our donations/subscriptions.

I would be more happy to pay directly to Mooney as an supporter than to Lasar. Now I feel the money get into the wrong pockets. As I wrote before Lasar did markup a part with 60% just to drop ship it directly to me. Would be 100times better if Mooney took 40% of that money, and then Lasar had a normal cut like 20% instead. Will see what happens, but for $200 each month and only 10% discount on parts not worth it. Let's say I will need a part in 2 years that cost $5000, then I get 10% ($500 off) and then pay $4800 in "subscription fees" = $4500+4800 = $9300... Guess it's better to pay full price instead. Why not add an "supporter" subscription for $10-$30 instead to help out in general.

Would be interesting to gather some more information here... I assume regarding EGT is where the probes are mounted/drilled in the exhaust. Or are they "factory drilled" at exactly the same position? Also with TIT Probe, is that location always the same on all -MB / -SB

I replaced my Stock TIT prove around 60h ago, so I expect it should be OK. I've noticed that if I calibrate my JPI TIT after the stock TIT, they will differ depending on what altitude I fly on. If I calibrate it for at 4000ft at some power setting, JPI TIT will under read if I then fly higher, and vice versa. Right now I think it's calibrated so it's not showing "too low" values on the JPI, where I think it's better to be safe than sorry. Used flower pot, digital meter and spark plug pin. If I didn't mess up, my mags should be timed within 0.5degress. At FL 160 where the turbo have to work harder I have: 25" 2500 12.6g/h (65% ROP) EGT: Highest 1418f - Lowest 1353f - TIT: 1499f CHT: 359f - 330f - - 29.5" 2300 10.1 (65% LOP) EGT: Highest 1493f - Lowest 1406f - TIT: 1599f CHT: 353f - 316f My Cyl 6 EGT is lowest by ~40f from the others. *** I've checked some other flights at FL140. There my TIT was ~1500F at 25" 2500 12.6g/h

Update: New Maggie Harness, Gami Injectors and new Tempest Fine wire Spark plugs... Engine runs runs smoother, more even RPM drop at Engine run up. Also idle is stable after a flight when taxi, before I had some issues were I needed to add some rpm to have it running and not quit. Guess the harness fixed that. Did some Gami spread test and most likely in average I have 0.7 with Gami. Cyl 1 & 3 is to lean. Hopefully Gami will send replacement, they are not the fastest to respond. LOP, is not perfect but now I can at least fly LOP 29.5" 2300 10.1 (LOP 5-15 degree). After some fiddling I can get engine to run OK, but I expect improvement when I get replacement injectors. On my from ESSB to ESML I got a new speed record at FL160. 29" 2300rpm 10.1g/h, Cowl flap closed, All CHT under 369f, TIT ~1590-1600f Tail winds are nice :-)

30% increase is maybe reasonable if we can get the parts we need. But, when I ordered a part from Lasar and Mooney sent it directly to me the forgot to remove the invoice to Lasar. Sadly Lasar added 60% on top of the Mooney price just to order that part. Sure, Price and Demand... But 60% markup is ridiculous... and now an additional 30% on that. I would be much more happy to give that 60% markup directly to Mooney instead of Lasar.

If you can consider an M20K 252 Encore or 252 with Encore upgrade you can load it pretty good.

My road to getting my -SB engine to run smoothly at LOP continues... I now got my Maggie Harness (Thanks Paul for assisting) and also my Gami Injectors arrived. I've suspected lots of things, but made the decision to change ignition harness to be 100% that there wasn't any issues. They looked fine when we looked at it, but since left mag even when I changed it and also did an 500h inspection didn't solve rough LOP I decided to buy one anyway. What can you say, I'm glad that I did order a new harness, since there was damage to the old one on several wires. One of the wires were actually really bad, and was in direct contact with metal. This was 5B on Left Mag... rest of chaffed wires were on bottom plugs too. This was only on ~550h since new! All damage was in clamp. (You needed to remove wire to see it) Wire with most chaffing was forced against an rivet due to wrong installation and wrong clamp. Also impossible to see without removing wire. Even if this don't solve my LOP issues, I now have a fresh and correctly installed ignition harness. Started to install new harness yesterday. Gami injectors will be next up. Cylinder 5B. Severe chaffing, through outer rubber and braid shield... Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. When the installed new engine, they used old/wrong clamps that put lots of force on wires. On several wires when clamped together. After some hours of careful wire planning it slowly looks much better. Now all Ignition wires will be in own clamps, and all JPI probe wires in separate clamps.

Will check it next time.

There are actually more one more supplier of TEL in Asia according to Shell. (Can be found in their application in EU) Shell is also buying from that supplier. (If I didn't read it wrong)

Put back my newly inspected 500h Slick Mag. Engine runs more smoothly in general, but didn't solve my LOP issue. I can get it running 29" 2300 10.1 but it's not 100% smooth as I would like. Good news is that my GAMI Injectors will be sent out this week. Another good news is I had an little oil leak that been hard to find over the last 12 months. If my detective work is correct, then it was leaking from the Oil Stick rubber hose. Fitted 2x new clamps and a new rubber hose and made sure that the metal tubes got connected as they should. Last flight over an hour it appear that it stopped leaking... It was not leaking much, but it flying around everywhere making a mess.

For -SB I have the following settings: ROP (Update) 65% Key 50 25" 2500 12.5g/h (This is what I'm using) 75% Key 53 28" 2500 13.9h/h (Only tested this setting once or twice, 65% is enough...) My normal setting: At 15000 Feet (FL 150) with 65% ROP, 12.6g/h TIT ~1500, CHT 345-367F Cowl flaps closed Airspeed: ~170KTAS Soon as I get my LOP working as it should I suspect I will use LOP instead.

Sent my Slick Mag for 500h inspection, came back some days ago. Will put it back next week. Also ordered a Maggie Harness cables, hopefully they will be ready to ship next coming weeks. I noticed that the I don't have standard Adel clamps on one side of the engine. There is some similar clamp, that they do really put pressure/force on the cables. More than I think is healthy for the cables. Since I changed the Slick Mag (Left side) and it behaves exactly the same as the other, I'm starting to suspect that the harness is bad. Yesterday I got it running smoothly at 28" 2300rpm with 10.1g/h.

Can you send to Europe?