BrianWilkins

Best I've seen with mine was about a quart in 9 hours. Worst was a quart in 4 just prior to overhaul. "Normal" for me seems to be about a quart in 6.5 to 7, keeping it at 6 quarts all the time.

So basically you're using a quart every 4 hours. That seems kinda high to me, but then again you're just about to TBO.

If that’s my only option, I will but it’s currently leaving me stranded so I’m hoping for something faster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking for a fuel pump p/n 3140-49 for a ‘69E. I’ve tried McFarlane, LASAR, Spruce, and Quality Aircraft. If anyone has a lead, please let me know. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with what Vance said above. Electric gear in my 69 E has been this way since I bought it and the gear rigging has been checked multiple times including by an MSC. Normal for my plane.

I'd like to hear more about this. When you refer to the 4 magnets, are you talking about the 4 magnets that are already within the unit, or adding 4 additional magnets? Why do these work better than vertical card compasses? Thanks!

I've used 3 sheets of this shielding under the top of my dash. That, along with the balls, got me close. Still not as close as I'd like to be though. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/magneticcompassshield.php?clickkey=12374

You can get IO-360 cylinders from Continental / ECI, and (I think) elsewhere.

I've used other year's (at least according to PlanePlastic's website) parts on my 69E and they've been fine so far. Usually if the picture looks correct, it's the right part, at least in my experience with them.

I'm pretty sure LASAR rents travel boards. Give them a call.

I am currently getting my IO360 overhauled at Poplar Grove Airmotive in Poplar Grove, IL. They overhaul to new specs and are fairly well known for the quality of their work. https://poplargroveairmotive.com/pga-overhaul/

I am in need of one of these (P/N 600115-005) if anyone has one. I've contacted Alan Fox (who does not have one) and Don Maxwell (who I have not heard back from yet). LASAR says they are keeping a list of people who need it, but also do not have any at this time. Anybody got one or have a lead on one? Thanks.

Sounds like you two need to get together and do a swap-a-roo!!!

I bought a Brother P-Touch label maker with transparent labels and I'm very happy with the results.

It will only be questioned if / when there’s an accident. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just looked back at my info on it. The total for the two switches and two solenoids was $865. I believe it was about a day's labor for the A&P.

I had this same issue. When your gear refuses to come up, use something and tap the floor under / just behind the pilot's seat and see if the gear comes up. There are two switches and two solenoids that wear out over time. That's where they're located. I had to replace mine. Another way to troubleshoot is when the gear won't retract, leave it down and put the plane up on. jacks. Remove the belly pan and tap around those switches and solenoids. Good luck!

Also, if you buy it and need an insurance checkride, I'm a CFI with Mooney time in the area.

Call Poplar Grove Airmotive at 815-544-3471. They're close enough that they'd probably send someone down. Excellent shop.

No problem! I'm glad to be able to help someone with something! Most of the time it's me getting help from someone else. haha Please keep me posted on your progress, and like I said, don't hesitate to call PAI. The dude that runs the place is really sharp and interesting to talk to.

The sheets are kind of like a thick aluminum foil sort of thing (but I think they're made of nickel). You can bend them, cut them, or whatever. They'd cut easily with plain old scissors. So if your center post is steel, you could easily cut some of the sheet and wrap the post with it. You might want to cover it with some sort of covering or paint it to make it look better though. Two sheets will pretty much cover the entire underside of the bottom of the dash. I used painters tape initially to make sure they fit ok and did the job and then used strong duct tape to hold them in place once I had them exactly where I wanted them (yeah, I know, not exactly A&P quality work, but then I'm not an A&P). Oh hey, by the way, be careful handling those sheets. The edges will cut you up!! They put a warning sticker on them telling you that, which I totally ignored and got a whole bunch of cuts. haha.

You get it from both. I actually used a small magnet tool (like you use to pickup nails, etc) in my plane to try to figure out where all of the steel was. The center post is apparently aluminum but the area on the ceiling at the front of the cabin in mine seemed to have some steel in there. You also get interference from instruments and radios in the dash. I also explored degaussing like you described but had several A&P's tell me that it generally doesn't last very long. You can also use your compass (old one or new one) to just hold and move around your cockpit to try to see where magnetic interference is coming from. The issue, as described to me by the guy at PAI is that the newer compasses use stronger magnets and are therefore more likely to be susceptible to steel or other interference. The sheets of absorbing material help to block it and the balancing balls help to offset it. You can also just take those absorbing sheets from Spruce and use painters tape to move them around your cockpit to see how it affects the compass. Like I said though, in my case I just taped them to the underside of the top of the dash and it worked like a charm along with the balls.

Just making sure... you do know you're supposed to turn the little balls on the balancing ball thing, right? You turn one of the balls to adjust the N/S and the other to adjust E/W.

There is a trick to using the balance balls and the instructions that come with it are not clear. First, you have to reset the compass adjustment screws to their factory default spots. Also, make sure that when you look at the bottom of the compass, the small indentation on one of the adjustment screws is facing the back of the compass. BE CAREFUL. Those screws strip pretty easily. Once you've got the adjustment screws back to factory default, then follow the instructions for moving the balance balls to get the compass as close to accurate as possible (find a place away from metal buildings, etc and use the compass app on your phone or something). Once you have the compass really close to accurate by turning the balls, then use the adjustment screws on the compass to fine tune it. Also keep in mind that this compass relies on a lot of jiggling around to read accurately, which is why the mount has it hanging somewhat loose. So you should tap on it A LOT or start the engine and let that vibrate it a lot when you're adjusting. I know all of this sound like a pain, but once you get it set, it really does work well.

In addition to my previous post, I would encourage you to call PAI. You can literally talk to the company founder on the phone and he's extremely helpful in getting the compass working. I was so frustrated that I was about to sell mine but his suggestions got me working. Seems to be a pretty good company.