r0ckst4r

Flicking the Master switch on and off a couple times to switch the batteries seems like it's not great for the electronics either.

Thank you for the info!

This may seem like a silly question but I had read that that the landing light is inboard and the taxi light outboard on the wing (2 lights each wing). Mine seems to be reversed. I was getting ready to put in some LED lights but now I'm a little confused on if I should keep them in the order they are in or put them back where they should be (if they really are supposed to be that way). Is it supposed to be landing light inboard and taxi light outboard or the other way around?

Under load as in with Master switch turned on (engine off) during preflight? So do you just ignore the POH and never check the batteries during preflight?

In the preflight inspection section of the POH it says to switch the batteries and leave on the battery with the highest voltage. Well for me it always seems that one battery has a slightly higher voltage than the other. I know that both batteries are charged during flight but do you guys ever alternate batteries at all despite one having a slightly lower charge? Does it even matter? I guess I just feel slightly neglectful flying around on the same battery all the time and never going to the bullpen lol.

Yes indeed. A great machine. Still a lot to learn.

Nothing fancy just a standard O1 tail

My CFI was an air force pilot. He called those a "Welcome Aboard!" poking fun at the Navy pilots who essentially plop down on the carrier and hope the wire catches them.

This is definitely something I learned the first few landings. Everyone is always harping about landing with too much airspeed in a Mooney but coming in with not enough results in you plunking the nose wheel down. @Blue moon Here are my two cents that you have already probably figured out by now and reiterates what people have already mentioned. My experience comes from my M20R and not sure how it applies to the rest of the fleet but I imagine it's not too far off. 1) If you use full flaps you should be almost fully nose up trimmed by the time you land. You'll notice those flaps will point you right at the ground without it. 2) I don't stall on the landing and don't yank the yoke all the way back. I trained on a Cessna 172 like most people so my first few landings I was pulling back farther on the yoke, hearing the stall horn, and really trying to hold the nose wheel off the ground. You can't unless you have more speed and as you have experienced when stalled it will just plunk down. With a little more speed and less nose high attitude she will come down on the mains and the nose won't drop 5 feet to the ground.

This is correct. The resistor basically does nothing. Here is the current with an LED at 21.6v.

This is correct. The resistor basically does nothing. Current with an LED is 21.6v

Also a question for you folks replacing your lights with non PMA LEDs. Since the original GE incandescent wasn't PMA either are you making a logbook entry or just replacing it and moving on? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to post.

I'd like to see some pictures of this if you have them.

The AutoLean device look very interesting but as I have been finding out the despite what the POH says a specific EGT temp like 50 LOP or 50 ROP does not seem to always result in the correct mixture given all the variables.

As per the instructions provided by SavyAnalyisiPro I leaned to the onset of roughness then enriched slightly to smoothness. From what I have been reading finding peak backwards from the lean side is described as being safer for the engine and avoiding more time in the red box or fin. I do notice that I have to adjust the mixture quite slowly for the instrument readings to "catch up". Which makes more more comfortable doing that after the big mixture pull and already on the lean side.

On the rear tie down ring?

I have started using a rope tied through the hollow tubes on the main gear and using the winch hook on that. It works but I have to admit I'm a little nervous about my knots when I see how much tension is on that rope. Probably too much for the rear tie down ring.

I managed to do some flying this week and followed those instructions. Here is what I ended up with: 9,500 ft, WOT, MP 21, 2500 RPM 100 ROP my fuel flow was 15.0 LOP (as described in the instructions) about 11.0 The LOP mag test was fine, The engine ran just mildly rough on the left or right mag alone but not overly rough and smoothed out on both. I'm thinking that I was just overthinking the numbers and should just pay attention more to the article that I linked in the original post. I also have stated to adopt the technique described in it with a relatively fast mixture pull and slowly finding peak "backwards" from already LOP and finding -50 (or roughness) that way.

For the comments on a motorized tug. I have a Robotow and I am thoroughly disappointed with it. On flat surface it works well but even the slightest incline and all it does it slip and shred my tire even with downward force on it. I can line the plane up with the hangar but it will not go in without some additional force such as someone else pushing or a winch.

I have a slight incline to get my M20R into the hangar. As you know this is a heavy aircraft. I have a winch in the back of the hangar and it seems like the obvious point to connect this to is the rear tie down hook. I would just like to confirm that people have used this and I am not going to cause any damage.

Let see if I can get you guys some more information here The logs show RHB32S fine wire plugs The last annual was at AGL last month Current engine has 668 hours I do not know the ignition harness details I have to assume that the injectors are stock CMI injectors as I cannot find anything in the books about them. This engine is the IO-550G 280 hp engine with redline at 2500 I have attempted LOP at multiple altitudes and power setting, here is what I got today. 4000ft, 65% power 19.7MP/2500 RPM, I was able to get to 50 LOP fine and my fuel flow was 10.2 gl/hr (12.0 gal/hr is listed on the chart in the POH). GAMI spread on the EDM 700 was 0.4 After climbing to 5,000ft at 65% power 19.5/2500 RPM i was only able to lean to about 30 LOP before change in engine smoothness after which i enriched to about 15-20 LOP. Similar fuel flow. GAMI spread was 0.2. The engine runs well, I just worry that something is off with my leaning and I'm actually way below 50 LOP despite what my EDM tells me. However my consolation is the article I posted seems to suggest that running too lean of peak may affect power and such but will not be hazardous to the engine (other than shutting it off from fuel starvation I imagine). All my CHTs have been <350.

My lights were literally held in by nothing other than that ridiculous RTV. I guess we will just have to devise a better way of installing lights. Also if anyone wants my one recognition light that's still good I guess they are pretty expensive so I'll let mine go cheap. I'm taking them out for now until I devise a better solution.

I have an Ovation 1 with a JPI EDM 700 and 450 fuel flow monitor. At cruise I follow the instructions to pre-lean first and the use the lean find to lean to 50 LOP. What usually happens is everything goes well, it finds the leanest cylinder then find the richest cylinder and I continue leaning until I am at about 20-30 LOP and I notice a change in engine smoothness. I then enrichen the mixture slightly for smoothness. I can't seem to ever reach 50 LOP. It seem I'm doing nothing more than the old pull to engine roughness then enrich mixture that was done before engine monitors. All the CHTs are fine and my fuel flow is less than expected by the performance chart in the POH. Should I continue to do things this way? An additional note. I had found this article https://www.jpinstruments.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Mike-Bush-Red-BoxRed-Fin.pdf It seem like the leaner the better but I just want to make sure I'm not running too close to peak or that there is some other problem stopping me from getting to 50 LOP

@PJClark How do you plan on mounting those when you get them?

That looks like a great idea, except the lights have that canbus feature which I think makes them draw more wattage. I think I'm going to get those sockets right now though.