201Steve

can you get any reasonable analysis of the valve operation without pulling the spring? Reason I ask... I thought I'd recently read that the valve wobble test is done with the spring still on. Is that not true? Ah heck I'll just go look it up.

It's possible its coming from somewhere else, but I can only chase so many leads at one time. lol. I've dealt with oil leaks before and I know it creep from one location to another, and being that hose is at the very bottom of the engine, it's possibly collecting and running down the side of the tube, rather than through it. We shall see....

Also, if it makes any considerable difference, here are some videos of the metal jumping and a side angle for size perspective. met.MOV met2.MOV

Oil consumption seems to be up but only very slightly. I don't do a perfect job at measuring it, but it's within a normal range. 1 Qt every 7 hours or so. Trend hasn't changed much to speak of.... No oil in the exhaust pipe... Need to pull bottom plugs at some point. Will probably do that at next oil change. Currently at 4.4 hours trying to get to 15 for a recheck... I will pull screen, pull bottom plugs, run a compression check, all in addition to the normal filter cut. As of now, I have no evidence to speak of to determine which cylinder (if any) are being problematic. It'd be a great time to have engine data.... Here are all the valve pics, or most of them. I wasn't sure how many pics it would let me upload. I have no idea if there is anything to look for on an intake valve. I just know to look for exotic colors and pizzas on the exhaust valves. Thanks for the feedback @carusoam

I had to pull out the laptop for this one. I posted a couple weeks ago about some metal discovered in my IO-360-A1B6D. Motor has 400 hours since 2014 overhaul. Since then I've gotten my oil analysis back, boroscoped the cylinders, and discovered an interesting new development. It's quite possible the new development is separate from the metal findings, and honestly I didn't give it much attention at first. In the oil analysis, the analyst from Blackstone predicted that I potentially had wearing exhaust valve guide(s) or valve stem or both. After leaving the hangar today, I took a closer look at the oil/fuel droppings I normally leave behind after a run. I normally get some oil from the breather tube and I get a little fuel from the sniffle valve/induction sump. The fuel from the sniffle valve droppings looked like a larger than usual puddle. I stuck my finger in it and discovered that it was a mixture of fuel and oil. I started searching around for why the heck oil would be coming from the induction sump. After reading a few things here and there on the forums, it sounds like if you're getting oil into the intake sump, you could potentially be pulling oil through the intake valve guide. That's where I drew the connection. Blackstone says I could have failing valve guides, and oil in the sump means there is oil getting through the intake valve guide. Does that have anything to do with the metal in the oil filter? Maybe? It is ferrous metal that was discovered. I understand that valve guides are nickel (ferrous) and I'm not sure what valve stems are composed of. Currently, I am flying it to achieve 15 hours on new oil, so I can inspect filter again. On next oil change, I will also pull the screen to check for larger metal pieces. I did not get that far on the last one. This is the first time I've found any detectable metal in the filter. It had just come out of annual, I flew it from Georgia to California and back, and did the oil change when I got home. 38 hour interval. It seems to be running fine. I've done a bunch of mag checks, run ups, power setting combo's, etc with no anomalies to speak of. Oil pressure normal, Oil temp normal, CHT's normal for my mixture settings (no problem keeping them below 380). EGT's, not really sure what to look for in this instance. Since I can't record data, I have no graphing to go off of. I am only producing 2660 max RPM but that's been consistent since I've owned the airplane for 200 hours 1.5 years. Unfortunately, I have no engine data. I have an Insight G1 that measures CHT and EGT on each cylinder but it will not record data. I really hate that. I'm moving toward some upgrades, but at the moment, I'm trying to find my path for what may be the matter with the engine. I've been taking some video of the engine monitor with my phone, but I'm pretty sure it's useless unless I can put the information on a graph. Today, I boroscoped all 4 cylinders, inspected the cylinder walls for scoring and valve faces for discoloration. Although I'm not an expert on boroscopy, everything appeared fairly normal. There was one cylinder whose walls looked a little smoother than the others, and I had a hard time getting a good image of the cross-hatching, so glazing I guess is a possibility, but that seems unlikely as from my understanding, glazing generally occurs during improper break-in. (NOTE: I also posted up some other pictures of some very odd looking 'scoring' that had no rhyme or reason to it, almost squiggly. I confirmed after running and rescoping that the odd markings came from scuffs from the boroscope rubbing against the bottom of the cylinder wall). I've attached pictures of: Metal on magnet, a photo of each cylinders' valves, oil analysis, and oil/fuel puddle on hangar floor. Am I onto something here or is it likely unrelated? I didn't find anything worth uploading from inspecting cylinder walls. Any and all feedback welcome....

I used a guy named Patrick Lutker out of southern Wisconsin for a PPI at Kenosha. He is not a Mooney guy per se, but it was the best option I had for mine, as I needed someone who would travel. Guy wouldn't let the airplane leave his hangar for PPI. Someone on Mooney Pilots facebook group said he'd helped him with his annuals a few times so I went with it. Never actually met the guy, but I guess he did OK. It was a good report, and we never found anything later either so... it could be said there was nothing for him to find, but he helped me out in a pinch so I was grateful for that. I can send you his phone number if needed.

Yes yes yes and yes to Dynam Bal

The real doozie is, there is similar scoring in 2 separate cylinders. 1 and 3

Paging @M20Doc and others familiar with scoping cylinder walls. The metal I found in the filter is driving me crazy- what could it be?! So in addition to “just keep flying” I decided to pull the top cowling and top spark plugs to scope the cylinder walls. I used a vividia able scope with articulating Head, but sheesh it’s tougher than I thought. It’s challenging to identify abnormalcies through a tiny camera. Also, there is a hotspot on the camera lense that appears as an annoying big yellow dot in the middle. Anyway, I’ve edited down a short video and a couple still shots of something I found. Does this finding look consistent with broken ring, scoring, etc? I so wanted to see it with my eyes and feel it with my finger but I think I’m on to something. Can you confirm??? IMG_8837.MOV

Interesting, thanks!

Hey y’all. I’ve got some bug guts in my pitot tube. Couldn’t quite get it all out. What’s the procedure for pulling out and cleaning? I pulled the 4 screws and dropped it down to check it out over weekend. Looks like need to disconnect the heat wire. Is there anything tricky or sensitive to be cautious of? Any tips to speak of. Obviously never done it so checking my bases

I use a GE bulb for now. It’s just a conversation. I already apologized for hijacking an otherwise helpful post. This isn’t an attack on James, Or Whelen. Matter of fact, from a business standpoint, good for them for getting the government to regulate light emitting diodes. I’m not mad at them, if you have the resources to squash your competition by regulation, you’re working the available system. However, as a certificated aircraft owner who’s affected by egregious over regulation, I think I’m well within my bounds to at minimum challenge the sensibility of FAA over regulation by way of a conversation. Again, probably a little over the top to hijack your post. Next time I’ll make my own thread but I’ve learned some things from its’ discussion. take care James

By the way, sorry for hijacking your otherwise very helpful and informative post to complain.

What is the published spec? “GE Model xxx”? Or is it a General type of bulb cited? I’ve not seen what the ‘published spec’ Refers to. The mythical “aircraft quality part” thing gets me sometimes. I think it goes overboard and here’s my logic: Whelen makes light bulbs of all varieties. They’ve been making lightbulbs long before they started Making aircraft light bulbs. What kind of silly idea makes one think that they got better or worse at making light bulbs because they were putting it in an airplane? The application is the same. If I’m designing a light bulb for a police spotlight, I’m not making compromises like “Oh this is for finding bad guys at night and not going in an airplane so I’m going to make this one overheat and de-rate the power faster. But the airplane bulb, lets hire a new team of engineers to solve this problem.” They are going to produce the same quality of product at the rate that it’s possible across all its applications because, it’s the same application: It’s dark and I need light. That is comparing apples to apples. If you want to argue Chinese amazon over Whelen as a general brand, then we are talking about Glock vs Hi Point and that comparison isn’t unique to Aviation either.

Thanks fellas!

How dumb that the FAA approved these stupid things by issuing an STC. I know I’m beating a dead horse but I’ve been triggered. Lol. Nearly as dumb as the GD visor. But not quite.

Can anyone advise what the static RPM should be for a 77j with IO360-A1B6D ? Or where one would find the data? Thanks

Haven’t the diamond faced tappets been a very good alternative at a much cheaper cost?

I keep seeing this here and there, talking about a factory reman being the same price as overhaul, but from what I’m seeing, Jewell will overhaul my io360 for 16,000 and a factory reman from AirPower is $37k. That’s markedly different. What am I missing?

I did. Obviously won’t have it back for a bit, though.

Hey folks, Found some ferrous metal in my oil filter today. This is the first time I’ve seen any at all. 400 hrs on the motor. 77j with iO360. I’m not freaking out yet, but would like some perspective. The attached pic is everything I pulled out of the filter media. I got it back from annual 3 weeks ago, All was clear at that point. then I flew it to California and back to Georgia last week and put 35 hours on the airplane so I went for oil change today. Don’t know if the long, hard, hot, and high might have put it under more constant stress than usual, thus causing new wear?

Mike is a machine. He answers everyone’s emails and I don’t understand how. Lol

Lycoming Service Instruction 1425A Outlines the procedure if you want to take a look at it.

I’m not far from there. Send me a message.

Photo of the product. Do I need to buy an applicator gun/bottle or just use a spatula?