201Steve

Like an F. it’s the same concept as above, more or less.

I will buy some if somebody has a 3d printer

Heresy. J bars never have issues. -Anyone on the internet with a J bar

@Danb I had the issue. Before stripping out the screw, uninstall it and put the joint in a vice. It will tighten up the clamping ability ever so slightly where the tightening screw can do its job without fighting the loose tolerance of the clamping block. Fixed.

Wow….

Would the manual extend cable even be an Eaton part? I would think their contribution stops at the actuator itself. Doubt there’s even anybody to talk to about a Mooney actuator at such a huge conglomerate

And it’s got loctite in the little crown.

https://us.rs-online.com/lighting-indication/?page=1 sloan 855-STD-CTP was the map light. Browse that category.

That’s a long way to go in between forums and events for lunch….

My 77 J has a tiny bulb and socket just above the indicators that shines down on the indicator. It’s a small metal shrouded screw-in with an opening only in the direction of the flap/trim indicator. Both the bulbs and the sockets are off the shelf parts with a little digging. My map light under the yoke is the same, I just replaced both the bulb and socket. another thing you can do when hunting parts is open up the IPC in an adobe reader and search for words within the text. “Light” or “bulb” or “indicator” and it may reveal what you’re looking for. Pretty cool that the computers now understand the text in scanned documents.

I agree. The food at the north and south clubs on the line wasn’t bad. But it’s like $150 ticket. I felt like the food court was just A&W burgers X 30. More cow bell. More A&W.

Might post a pic of it to clarify type

Has anyone had luck lubricating the klixon switch? I don’t know if it’s sealed or accessible. A couple of mine don’t move smoothly, I feel like that’s why the plastic caps break, takes too much pressure to actuate them. Maybe some sort of dielectric aerosol?

Honeywell 2TL1-3D edit- same as Eric posted

4th rule of the Universal firearm safety rules: 4) Be sure of your target and what is beyond it. I’ve spent a fair amount of time at a high level training facility, with lots of LEO that came in thinking they were kings of firearms, just for the SF instructors to prove to them they have no clue what they are doing. Public ranges or in the woods with “experienced hunters” and “I’ve been shooting guns since I was 6 I know what I’m doing” types, my takeaway is the vast majority (easily the simple m), A) don’t know what they are doing, b) have never had formal training of any type c) are generally unsafe. Although they really didn’t think so. To echo @GeeBee sentiment.

My airplane made it nearly 50 years without getting dented. Jewel Aviation (Kennett MO) was sure to ruin it. They said “oh they are all like that, it’s easy to fix, you just beat it back from the other side”.

@Vance Harral yeah, I read that. It doesn’t make sense why it’s not included. That was part of the confusion. But, the less recurring AD’s your airplane has, the better. From a valuation, flexibility standpoint. Nobody wants to be in an AD grouping.

It means that if I choose to do the mid time lubrication at hour 101, I can and I get to make that decision based on practicality. Whereas if it were affected by the AD, I would be federally mandated to do it by hour 100 whether I was at home, across the country, or otherwise. It absolutely matters.

I’m not sure how you missed it, it’s not that long of a post, BEST PRACTICES ASIDE, this is purely a question of the AD applicability exclusively. Period. thank you @EricJ

Looking for all of the wisdom on the Dukes Actuator AD 75-23-04 The AD specifically calls out Dukes PN: 4196-00-1C as the mandated actuator in question for the AD. My airplane is a 1977 M20J with Dukes PN: 1057-00-5G (a 40:1 gear from new) Best practices aside, am I immune from the AD due to part#? It sure looks that way. The 1057 series Dukes that came with most of the early J models, is a 40:1 gear system from new. I just learned this too. So much to comprehend.

I guess to save the crane bill you could just add power enough to ground effect and re-land without going around if your hypothetical situation gives us the awareness you described. And the runway was 5k+

What are you possible going to save by going around after you already F’ed it up? A bent prop that’s just a little less bent? A little less scraping on a scraped belly? lol

That looks nice.

Yeah if u haven’t decowled it at minimum, no way to know where it’s. Coming from it gets blown around everywhere. Snifffle valve comes off intake. Would be highly unlikely unless somehow oil getting through the intake valve guide

Sure looks like it, but the only way to know for sure would be to yank the jug I would think. Unless you are able to ascertain 1,000% that it’s NOT a crack, sure would be thinking about it a lot during flight. I guess it’s theoretically possible to get some dye penetrant in there with some funky angled spray tips and tools. Nice find! -Not an A&P, very minimal cracked metal experience.