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201Steve

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Everything posted by 201Steve

  1. I guess to save the crane bill you could just add power enough to ground effect and re-land without going around if your hypothetical situation gives us the awareness you described. And the runway was 5k+
  2. What are you possible going to save by going around after you already F’ed it up? A bent prop that’s just a little less bent? A little less scraping on a scraped belly? lol
  3. That looks nice.
  4. Yeah if u haven’t decowled it at minimum, no way to know where it’s. Coming from it gets blown around everywhere. Snifffle valve comes off intake. Would be highly unlikely unless somehow oil getting through the intake valve guide
  5. Sure looks like it, but the only way to know for sure would be to yank the jug I would think. Unless you are able to ascertain 1,000% that it’s NOT a crack, sure would be thinking about it a lot during flight. I guess it’s theoretically possible to get some dye penetrant in there with some funky angled spray tips and tools. Nice find! -Not an A&P, very minimal cracked metal experience.
  6. @Fly Boomer depends on the chair. I’ve had luck taking the back off the chair just using the butt pad but they all have plates that screw to a cushion. You could replace the chair with a piece of thin plywood, whatever you want. It’s basically a table lift that doesn’t need to pick up 5k lbs.
  7. The hydraulics of an old office chair slightly modified is plenty strong to lift the cowling.
  8. I feel like you asked AI to write a long form question about Mooney airplanes in the form of a romantic novel. I think the question is, can you do primary training in a Mooney -probably not. They don’t have brakes on both sides. Suggest taking a discovery flight with a flight school before worrying about any of the subject matter presented.
  9. CD player AND cassette tape deck!?!? Dude was sporting a Lincoln continental on the ground no doubt.
  10. this is impossible. Fake news. Johnson bars are impervious to failure of any kind. -all Johnson bar owners
  11. They probably left it outside after they got finished and water got inside your static port. Sometimes the drain valve underneath the tail will clear it, sometimes it’s not enough to drain out and you have to pull the battery panel and visually locate and disconnect the line to let water trickle out.
  12. The instructions are right there on your schematic. It is a stupid simple install. F1 to VR. F2 to ground. Output. That’s it. the other of the 5 wires you refer to are probably shielding grounds. The output and the the field wire both have shielded wire. Each end of the shield has to ground in a nearby location. and then, at least on mine, the ground “post” (the casing of the alternator) also has a jumper leading to the engine block for a solid ground all around. there’s your 5 or 6 wires.
  13. Looks like there was a stain of fuel that accumulated between stripping/cleaning and actual painting. You can see around the screw head that the paint didn’t adhere from the fuel coating being present on the skin surface
  14. What’s your method? Connect the battery leads to some other consumer electronics charger like for an XBOX controller?
  15. All of this online discussion about helicopters self destructing ~for wild~ maneuvers like "pitch change" and simply trying to save the craft from an engine failure.... sure makes me all the more suspicious of helicopters AKA whirly death birds.
  16. Just go to a local glass or window shop. They’ll usually just rob a small piece of acrylic off another project. Cut it to spec. I think I paid the guy $15
  17. @PeteMc you don’t put a high concentration tip on it and get 2’ away from it. in fact, the foaming portion isn’t a hard stream at all. It just gives the blast enough juice to “atomize” the soap through the affixed soap container. I’ve had no luck with anything close to useful with a hose attachment. a rinse with a wide area nozzle and distance from the surface just rinses with a high volume fine mist. Or pull the pressure off altogether.
  18. I have an insight g2, always thought about this but… green bars, red bars, I just look at the numbers. I don’t think there’s any audio on the unit What’s the deal with the new screen? Any benefit?
  19. Just make sure you stay far away from the boot heel of Missouri. Do not under any circumstance find an old thread on here and consider Jewell Aviation Kennett, MO unless you want to walk away with a high probability of parts falling off, or blowing off, your engine. My safety contribution for the day. Sorry I don’t have any positive recs in the area but others will. I will say, call several shops to compare prices and time. It seems the turnaround time can vary widely.
  20. This part I do not understand. There was a guy (George?) in California that used to do them all the time. It’s just a basic electric motor. How is George the only guy in the world who knows how to work on motors? I can’t fathom this. Electric motors are in every airplane. Do they have unique parts that’s the issue? Seems like they would all be pretty standard to motor fixers no? What’s the deal?
  21. Gotcha so it’s not low lead (LL) bc it’s high lead. Thought I solved a major aviation challenge there for a minute….
  22. Yeah, welcome aboard money bags magee, thanks for your service.
  23. Can I ask a stupid question? What in the world is green 100 octane? It does not have the prefix “LL” so I assume it’s a non leaded 100 octane? The solution to all of our problems? Go back to green gas?!
  24. No I understand. I don’t hate it a bit. Just being dramatic. If you want the gear set, here’s the shot. I did the exact same thing 3 months ago. Bought an actuator motor assembly (with 40:1 gears) for $5k. So now I have a fully working, complete system, with all parts in the event any of them fail. Call it a $5k insurance policy. I did not enjoy having to do it but I am now covered from getting grounded unforeseen. I don’t like being vulnerable or waiting on anyone to do their job. So, case closed for me.
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