Prior owner

I learned he hard way...however you choose to install it, do NOT cut into the edge binding on the carpet- it will unravel and then take far too much time to make a passable repair. If you want to install it without removing any rods- cut a slit up the center of the carpet from the firewall side , stopping short of the flap rod, from there, you branch out with cuts to each rod that protrudes through the carpet. This way, The binding stays intact all the way around the wheel house. After you glue it all down, the slit up the center will not be visible if you join the edges of the slit together carefully. Just one of many ways to do it, I am sure...

Thank you!

Don, would love to see a pic of the rest of your panel..

If I can’t wiggle them out, I’m going to be left with using a pick to clean them and a needle fitting on my grease gun to service them, and then duct tape to seal them... not going to remove the main gears now- the plane has been AOG for too long already and this will set me back another few weekends. It’ll go n the list for next annual.

Turns out I was wrong - there is a broken off fitting in each of my trunnions... They had been primed and painted over. I used Scotch Brite and there they were. Now I've got to get them out of there!

Out my way, Leases for Shop space at airports are getting as rare as saffron.... and if you do find a space available, the airport management is asking something insane to lease it. The overhead is too much for what most shops are charging for an hour of labor to remain competitive. It’s a recipe for indifference towards customers, I think... I am seeing this more and more. And airports on the west coast don’t seem to be expanding on the ramp at all- no new structures being built. Massive waiting lists for T-hangars. Something isn’t right...

There is a shortage of shops everywhere...especially avionics shops. People line up for the kind of experience you just had. It’s crazy.

I’ll get some pics his weekend...perhaps the hole was clocked up on top during the install- I only checked with a finger so far. I’ll get a mirror and check to be sure. Right now I suspect that the trunnion was never changed.

Yes, that’s the one... I don’t have a pic handy, but I cleaned it up and here isn’t a hole there... I’m going to have to drill one. Gotta get some guidance on the proper size bit...already bought the install tool for the fitting.

My aircraft has no fitting or hole in the front trunnion...it never had one. Could it be because it was originally a fixed gear?

Someone will chime in here, but also check where the assembly clamps to the engine mount- mine wasn’t clamped tightly enough and it was sliding up and down under pressure. Will definitely affect your opening

Can you borrow a pigtail for your mag-? once it’s installed and timed, you can use the pigtail to keep the internal bar depressed while remaining disconnected from a ground. Don’t connect the pigtail to anything, then go start the plane, switch to the right mag and see what it does. If it still runs, it’s gotta be a switch issue? Maybe? did you check all switch positions with an ohm meter? Per this service bulletin: Bendix switch service bulletin

Way cheaper than the Dynamat I installed in my old Stovebolt truck!

The Airtex insulation is not very expensive, it’s light, comes with a burn cert and is easy to work with. Comes in different thicknesses too...

Here’s a Follow up on my switch installation after cleaning and lubrication- the push to start function is apparently not very happy having dielectric grease on the contacts...all the other switch functions worked fine, but the push to start was intermittent until ( I assume) the grease got pushed out of the way...( it was only a very thin coating that I applied). Even after that, starter engagement required considerable force to make a positive connection, until I removed the Luberex grease. All is well now. Perhaps this is why Bendix didn’t lubricate these switches from the factory??

Thanks for posting all of this guys....my 64 has no evidence whatsoever of ever having any grease fittings in the forward trunnions. I guess I’m going to have to drill them out. Why would the factory not do this?

Yes, mark the headliner rods.... I have seen some clever trim pieces that people have created to avoid having to install the headliner at the doors using the method that the factory used... I did get a couple wrinkles near the cabin door, as I was intent upon getting that liner in the same way that the factory did... I’m really surprised that they didn’t just create a trim piece to cover that area, because I think it would have eased installation a great deal. I guess they learned something when they decided to move away from fabric headliners!

Now you’ve made me very curious, as those pucks are really old... when you jack the plane up and then set it back down, are the pucks compressing and expanding? I’m wondering if there is any movement of the strut at all.... it just really seems crazy that they at still within limits! Did the plane live on jacks for a long while?

I finally fixed my switch...these are the before pics. Re- installing the base with the wound spring and plate was an interesting challenge. After cleaning and lubricating with Luberex, the switch feels like new and checks out great.

Thanks for posting all the pics- It’s going to look great when you’re done. Is your roof vent working right now? I had to fix mine and then just did my headliner as well. I chose wool, but would choose vinyl if I had to do it over again....it’s too easy to end up with glue mistakes that can’t be fixed with wool. might wanna take a look at your upper vent scat hoses- mine were rotten and rusted inside

Better yet, attach the tow bar to your tool/supplies bag with Velcro straps..?

I must be blind....where is the panel mount compass? I like this idea

If you started it with the right mag hot, I would have expected it to kick back on start up, and probably not start.... so maybe a mag problem..? You might want to check a few threads down regarding starting problems- I posted a link to the ignition switch SB and an article that describes some of your symptoms. Did the engine start smoothly/normally with the right mag p-lead removed? might be your switch...might not. You can check continuity and absence of continuity with the switch in different positions, per the SB with or without the engine running. if you checked continuity of the right p-lead with it still attached the mag, you need to remove the lead from the mag and check it again, because the points will show the mag grounded depending upon the position of the points.

I wanna see pictures of that!

I’m having serious trouble with my bendix switch as well, and found a few good resources to repair it- TCM sells a repair kit with new contacts and support plate, and they have a very informational Service Bulletin regarding inspecting and upgrading our switches, as well- it also includes how to conduct a proper continuity test on our “push to start switch”: Bendix Service Bulletin No. 583 TCM Bendix switch repair kit, as specified in the SB- $206.95: Bendix rebuild kit part No. 10-357515 A good article on Bendix and ACS switch cleaning/repair that recommends Luberex for Bendix switch lubrication, per ACS’s guidance on lubricating their ign switch, which is also affected by AD: Bendix and ACS Switch cleaning and repair