Prior owner

I had a Luscombe that was polished... I used to buy Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish by the quart directly from the factory because I was going through so much of it. Keeping it looking spiffy totally wore me out. the shine would last about 3 weeks in Florida. Maybe it wouldn’t be so bad in a place like Phoenix..?

All very true.... But I still think the GPS 175 is a great alternative to spending $5k an old 430 unit if you already have radios.

The Garmin GPS 175 is only $5000 new. If you’ve already got nav and comm radios, a GPS 175 with a G5 HSI is a low cost route to LPV approaches

This might kill my plans to find an old 430 unit and install it!

Ok thanks. It’s an old SB from 1967- it is also an AD and most likely would have been complied with on your plane a long, long time ago...although the link lubrication is the recurring portion. I only gave it as a reference regarding removing the links. Maybe somebody else here has changed them on an early serial numbered aircraft...?

Alex, not sure whether you have had to deal with your main gear retracting links yet, but my D needs the bushings replaced on both sides... SBM20-155 SBM20-155 deals with the retrofit of the new style retract links (which I have), and states that for the earlier D serial number planes (those manufactured prior to SN 252), that you can’t simply unbolt the rear bearing block and swing the rear of the gear into the corner to change the links- you’ve got to remove the entire gear from the wing. I’m not sure what changed with the later serial numbered aircraft that makes this job easier... If you did have to replace your links or bushings, did you find it necessary to completely remove the gear from the wing? Not looking forward to this chore! Looks like I’ll have to make a main gear spring removal/install tool as well. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Dave

My three new Condor Tires were spin balanced with red dot at the valve stem and it took a lot more weight than I would have guessed to balance each one.

Boy, sure did misread the original post...

It just occurred to me that a MP gauge that is reading too low will not be the result of a leaking line; a leak in the line will produce a higher MP than normal... Sorry about that!

Thread on topic

There was a recent thread on this- you should be able to scroll down and find it- maybe in vintage Mooneys, or in the avionics/panel forum. “3M Strip Caulk” is the replacement for the factory method of sealing, I believe. If you find that thread, there are others who have had success with certain peel and stick weatherstripping.

Check security and condition of all MP lines and fittings... especially the small flare fitting near the engine- it may be broken/cracked inside.

Barrel rolls, hammer head, loops- all fun. I draw the line at snap rolls- those are worse than the spinning tea cups ride at Disneyland (my nemesis). I have enjoyed this thread immensely. I read it from beginning to end at least twice right after I got my “D”. Looking back on my flying career, being a CFI was without a doubt the most rewarding experience that I have ever had. Please continue to post your progress!

There are some arguments for and against Alodining the tank... FlameMaster, who makes the sealants I am using (3204 A&B, 3300, 3600), encourages the use of Alodine due to its ability to create an excellent surface for adhesion of its products. The ceiling of my tank shows some very mild surface corrosion (more of a discoloration that is the natural change of state of aluminum exposed to the elements) due mostly to the cycle of condensation in the tank, I believe. It is a no-no to Alodine assembled structures, due to the potential for the Bonderite/Alodine to become entrapped in the faying surfaces, under river heads, etc.. So what to do? How much damage will occur and how long will the progression take between the faying surfaces if there is some entrapped, dry acid? Will it take longer to decay than it will take for my steel roll cage to corrode from the inside out? Nobody seems to know. It begs the question- how much longer will these planes last regardless of what we do/don’t do? My take on all this: The Alodine chemicals can be applied, removed and “rinsed” very carefully with sponges to certain areas. I will certainly apply it to the roof of the tank where it was previously exposed to air/moisture without a buna-N coating. I probably won’t apply it liberally in this tank. But this could change by next week, as I am really on the fence about coating the entire tank. I did coat the whole inside of the last tank, but I did it with access to unlimited high pressure water (not that that guarantees anything). I pressure rinsed it for nearly 30 minutes between each step. This time I’ve only got a bug sprayer to rinse with- no more rinsing fuel tanks at the airport wash area! Considering that some owners are using corrosive paint stripping chemicals on their tanks which can ooze into areas and gel up/harden quickly, and will be more of a challenge to rinse out than Alodine, we are probably way ahead of the game if we go in with Polygone ($115 a gal, but will not attack aluminum), and then Alodine our tanks. Perhaps there is a method to managing the application and removal of regular paint stripper that will make it less of a future corrosive concern, but I haven’t been in this game long enough to know what that method is and to be confident that I’m not hurting this plane down the road. Someday I’ll be old enough to know these things..... Who knows- this will probably be a never ending debate, just like which oil to use.

Had a chance to look at my caps today- the half moon washers were right where they are supposed to be.... they are probably stuck in there, as I had the caps apart when I cleaned and painted them, and I had no idea that they were a separate piece. Glad they aren’t missing!

3. MEK was not very effective at removing tiny areas of sealant or the Buna-N coating. I also got a gallon of Expired liquid Polygone from work- it has been sitting in a hazmat trailer through two hot summers and I found it to be just as effective as the new gallon of Polygone that I got from Spruce. The liquid was more effective than the gel, but only the gel will adhere to the vertical surfaces. 4. The eOx cleaner, also made by RPM Technology (they make Polygone), was used to flush the tank when I was finished. RPM recommends using eOx cleaner after Polygone. It is an excellent cleaner for bare aluminum and won’t hurt painted surfaces.

2. I got a pail of expired poly wipes from work, so I tried them as well- they weren’t very effective so I was glad that I got them for free. They are typically used to remove pro seal when installing new windows, and I think that they are easier on the paint.

The scraper made from an old aircraft window worked very well, but needed to be re-sharpened often.

Enjoy the Citabria- I did all of my primary training in a 7ECA, and it will always be one of my favorites!

Thanks. I’ll have to look again- perhaps they are just stuck in there (I didn’t see a counter bore).

Hey Doc- I’ve had my caps apart and never saw the half moon shaped piece that is depicted in the SB drawing (directly underneath item #2). It is not identified by number, either... am I missing this part?

No asking price in the ad...at least, I couldn’t find one. Hopefully the old adage isn’t true, since ”I had to ask” . Seriously though- that’s a tidy looking E!

Any insurance broker can give you an accurate quote for an M20 + your piloting experience. A clean IFR M20E falls within your budget. Grass strips? I am interested to hear from long time owners about their grass strip experiences in the Mooney...

Perhaps the health of the vibrator and associated wiring can be confirmed by- disconnecting all leads at the plugs, disconnecting the starter lead, pulling one plug from each cylinder and then engage the vibrator with the ign switch (or jumper current to the vibrator at the back of the ignition switch, if you don’t have a helper) while pulling the prop through slowly by hand. You can place a small piece of card stock or folded paper between each spark lead from the left mag and the cylinder (I just lay the lead next to an exhaust stack with folded paper slid in between). You can confirm a few things this way: 1. The retard points are firing the coil at the correct time (~TDC compression stroke) 2. The distributor block and high tension leads are set up properly. 3. That you’re getting a nice, strong, continuous spark from the vibrator. [EDIT] I just read Maxwell’s article and realized that that is where I had originally got this sequence from.... and it sorted the it my starting issues very quickly! Thanks again Don!

I can’t believe I missed that! I found it interesting though...