AH-1 Cobra Pilot

I have been considering such an upgrade. Do you mind saying who did your installation and for how much?

ME ATP as of 1 July 2016!

What kind of printer did you use? Was the print orientation on its side, as shown?

PLA is more brittle than ABS and has a lower melting temperature, but still in the neighborhood of 170 C. It can warp badly in a hot airplane. My first ADS-B box distorted a lot just sitting on my glare shield in the sun.

Stratux is a great way to go! This one was around $100, including the case I printed.

I guarantee this is only a temporary fix. Heat and cold will undo the tape, sooner or later. It may fail at an extremely inconvenient time.

Not even close... You ever smell a durian? How about the exhaust from a maladjusted 2-stroke coming from a broken urinal?

I had a similar problem; fixed this last annual for about $420. "Problem: Fuel flow inoperative, transducer leaking fuel. Action Taken: Removed inoperable and leaking fuel flow transducer P/N FLOSCAN 201B-6 and installed new transducer P/N FLOSCAN 201B-6 referencing Mooney M20J Maintenance Manual Chapter 28-40."

How do you start the conversation? "Hi. I'm the guy who just saved your life."(?)

My co-owner and I with our new purchase, circa December 2015.

Black nail polish looks better. I do need to try some white filament, though, so I just bought a grab bag of four rolls. They were blue, orange, green, and gray. Sheesh! If anybody wants to send me a roll of white filament, I will send you a whole printed set. (You have to do your own nail polish.)

I have a new printer on its way. It has a dual extruder, so I can make switches with two colors built-in. I will keep you informed of my progress. This one uses the lettering 'cut' into the switch surface and orange nail polish as a 'fill'. I only had clear ABS, so it might look better with white filament.

I paid just under $70,000 for my 201 in December. 3300 TT, 330 SFRM, the avionics are OK, (GX-60, SL-30, older Narco for the rest), the interior was a 2-3 out of 10, paint excellent, tank reseal almost out of warranty, (so good), no corrosion + it had treatment, lots of speed mods. In 50 hours flying, I may have put in 2 or 3 quarts of oil. Even though I did not see problems during the pre-buy, my first annual is about $10,000; $2600 for the annual and the rest for little things, (placards, seat belts, etc.). Some of that might be using a mechanic 2 blocks from the FSDO. I was somewhat less disappointed when the mechanic pointed to another J-model that was getting a $30,000 annual. Did I get a 'good deal'? I do not know. At any rate, there will be things wrong with almost any plane, even when it looks good.

I take it the hangar elves replace gaskets, too? Or is there a gasket between the glass and the instrument body?

Do you have any recommendations?

My airspeed indicator glass is cloudy, and I would like to refurbish/replace it. Can you post/send me a picture? .

I do a lot of 3-D printing and have two machines. I have printed some switches in ABS plastic and Nylon. The switches fit fine, but cosmetically, they are not that great. I even tried sanding them, but the look is still not as good as an injection molded piece. I have also tried to put lettering in the switch face, but the details are a little too fine. When 3-D printing the first thing to ask is what kind of printer someone is using. The second is what kind of plastic. Third is the color. The build orientation will also have an effect on the final part; some sides will be smoother than others. Hopefully, the operator knows which finish per side should be which.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ezHeater.php AS shows my model as the 442, (IO-360 A & C). Notice how long and skinny it is. Near as I can tell, It wraps around the side of the sump, bending 90 degrees in two places; not an easy installation. I was sold on the EZ Heat after installing one on my C-152. It was quick, easy, and very effective, but may not be the best on this engine.

Interesting. Reiff has a chart here, http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm#Standard System, that shows what either/both an oil sump and/or cylinder heaters do for you, starting at 22 degrees F, for different lengths of time. The oil sump heater alone will heat the cylinders, but it takes a long time. They do not say if they had a cover over the cowling, though. I am much more concerned for the days of -22 F that we see in Nebraska, so maybe the combination is best... I had considered the forced-air heaters, but I would much prefer something I can trigger remotely several hours prior to flying. Speaking of that, does anyone have any recommendations for remote switches, cellular or otherwise? It may even be possible for me to connect to a local WiFi.

Is that the Reiff SL4? Do the cylinder heaters really do that much more than the oil sump heater? Are the cylinder heaters easy to attach?

I have a 1978 201 with the standard 200 hp IO-360. I would like to put an E-Z Heat strip heater on the crankcase. The first one I received from AS had bad adhesive. They sent a second, but I am still not sure of the best way to apply it. It seems to require some 90 degree bends. Does anyone have any recommendations?