MikeOH

What do you think I'm selling?

And, THAT, will be a sad day, indeed. I rather enjoy making my upshifts at the correct point, and matching revs on a downshift. Substituting a loudspeaker for a set of open headers is pathetic. The counterpoint to embracing "don't fight change as it is inevitable", is not all change is for the better. The endgame of all this 'wonderful' technological advancement (because, who doesn't want to be just a teensy, tiny, bit safer, right? What kind of crazy person would say otherwise, right?), is what I like to call "brains in a jar.". I.e., we will all end up like the Matrix. How's that sound? I know I, and sounds like Hank, will be volunteering to serve on the Nebuchadnezzer

SKYNET will be self aware in no time....not a fan, sorry.

Ok. That sounds like a pretty good system if it employs a liquid-air HE. May have to look into that (it's frickin' 103 right now, nearly 6 pm. No WAY I'd go flying right now!) Another poster mentioned the Li batteries for the true AC....that's a MAJOR downside I hadn't thought about for that unit

Dude, I was going to waste words...but, just do yourself a favor and don't go into marriage counseling.

Does the B-Kool raise the humidity in the cabin? If not, then that sounds like a pretty good system. I just assumed that with ice, you were raising humidity.

CHT smells like a probe problem. As has been suggested, super easy to swap with adjacent cylinder; if it follows the swap you have your answer; bad, or incorrect probe type (J and K are common but NOT interchangeable). TIT gauge seems more like a wiring problem (sudden onset). Take a look and see if the probe wires are broken or kinked; start at the probe and work backwards as far as you easily can. I'm not sure how the gauge behaves open-circuit. I'd call Insight and ask. When I called with an issue on my G3 I swear I must have been quickly connected to the guy that designed the thing. Knew immediately that it was a software issue and fixed me right up by walking me through the free download/install process.

I'm just willing to work a bit harder than others, I guess. 1) How hard is it to route the drain tube to an exit in the belly right along with all the other tubes exiting there? I'd think that would be a pretty easy minor mod. 2) The heat exhaust is a little harder. Have to find a an area of low pressure, then fabricate and install an exit vent. Hopefully, still a minor mod. If the pireps on this thing come back positive I'll be a buyer.

Well, the link you provided says it includes, "heat exhaust system, drainage tube, and remote control," so I think they've thought that much through

Everyone has pretty much covered the many options for getting your wife to fly with you. I have three comments: 1) Do NOT give up YOUR passion. IMHO a healthy marriage does NOT involve one spouse telling the other person what they can or cannot do. If flying is now an important part of your life she should respect that and not discourage you from doing something you love. 2) Offer to do things that SHE wants to do that you historically would have declined. 3) Don't talk about your flights unless she asks.

There is NO WAY I'd want highly humidified air circulating around all my instruments and avionics. Sounds like a recipe for a VERY expensive disaster.

Thank you!

I believe the OP's problem was solved by having the radio repaired/realigned. 3 posts up from yours.

Yes, Remove the SOS - you won’t need it. Depends on which mag you are replacing. If it has an impulse coupler then use SIM4P Help me understand the above. If your plane has a SOS for starting then it does NOT have an impulse coupled mag; which makes sense. Now, you are REMOVING the SOS system. Without it, you would need an impulse coupled mag. Yet, you are being told to order the NON impulse 4N by SureFly. This doesn't make sense to me if the SOS is removed. Otherwise, what's the point of SureFly offering the SIM4P?? Their question is kind of strange, "Depends on which mag you are replacing. If it has an impulse coupler then use SIM4P". You just told them you have SOS and NO impulse coupled mags. Seems with NO impulse coupled mags and NO SOS, there could be starting problems!

I believe the system works by the stall switch grounding the circuit. So, if there is an intermittent ground somewhere between the buzzer (Sonalert) and the stall switch...

Will IPA (or PRIST) dissolve already present ice crystals, or does it need to be added to the fuel before exposure to sub-zero temps?

Good points, Paul. Auto engines were driven to eliminate lead in fuel as it destroys catalytic converters. Somehow, engines/valves were designed to NOT require lead. Not sure why aircraft engines can't take advantage of that technology. Only thing that comes immediately to mind is that the technology doesn't work at the high continuous power outputs required of aircraft piston engines.

It tells me that the market is sooo small that without government subsidies or forced regulation there is zero reason for industry to invest in a solution. Frankly, the fact that it is such a small market tells me it's a REALLY REALLY insignificant environmental problem, too. This is a political issue. I'm hoping someone in the government figured this out and decided the status quo is just fine.

And, like no one would ever screw that up and toast their engine running on the wrong tank. Yeah, a few thousand $ here and there do add up. But, there are limits to how much of a CB I am. Running mogas is well past that limit. Much easier and less risky ways to save money.

Random thoughts on auto gas in airplanes: 1) Not designed for it 2) Vapor pressure much higher and inconsistent due to seasonal blend variations 3) Chemistry that can attack parts of airplane fuel systems 4) Forms gum and varnish more easily 5) Hassle factor getting it to your airplane. 6) The premium auto gas may be $1 to $1.50 cheaper than avgas. Say, $10/hour savings. Private airplane use probably runs 50 to 100 hours per year. Annually saving you $500 to $1000 7) If you are worried about 0.5 to 1 AMU in cost savings.....IMHO if that's a big deal, then airplane ownership may not be for you.

M20K

I have a '70F with 201 windshield, PowerFlow, cowl closure, and all the speed mods...I see about the same: 145 kts at 8500, 8.5 gph, around 40-50LOP. Frankly, I'm not sure all those mods made much difference but since I bought the plane with all of them, I don't have a baseline on which to compare. I'm very happy with my STEC-30 w/alt hold. I'd NEVER spend the money to upgrade. As Rags said, I'd keep it unless it really fails hard. I just had both mags overhauled; just not convinced that the E-mag really bring that much. If you don't have an engine monitor, that would be a good place to drop some coin; love my Insight G3.

I used an escrow service to handle the money and title. I went rogue on the rest of my deal, however. In my sub $50K price range I asked myself if I was buying a used car from a private party would I be writing up a contract and negotiating all the eventualities? Not really. Seller and I agreed on price and that my mechanic would do an inspection and we'd talk about anything found. We shook hands. Nothing in writing, but no deposit from me. He flew the plane to my mechanic. Nothing major found. Wired the money, and seller sent the title, to the escrow. Picked the plane up and flew it home. I think the comment of evaluating the seller crucial. If you get the feeling the seller is hiding something/slippery then run away... If I was looking at $200K+ aircraft I'd feel differently about having a written contract. But, I think we often make a bigger deal than is necessary out of some of these purchases.

I think an E, F, or J would be ideal. I rented a B for nearly a decade and it's still on the line: http://duboisaviation.com/rental/

Uh, -1 is not a complex number. Keepin' it real