DXB

Kinda what I suspected as the same thing was happening when I found metal in the filter before overhaul. Now the engine is just off the test stand making full power after overhaul, and the behavior is nearly identical, so my money is on the governor setting. I had the prop resealed at the same time by a good shop, and I doubt they set the low pitch stop too high.

Seems unlikely both plugs failed simultaneously on #3?

Exactly what I needed. The drawing is a bit inscrutable, so I'm adding a pic here for reference. I suppose if rpm doesn't increase with this adjustment, the fine pitch stop on the prop is limiting...?

I'm working with a fresh O360-A1D overhaul. I had the 12 year old Hartzell Scimitar resealed and painted at the same time. It makes it to about 2640 static rpm, which is normal I think. However RPM at takeoff / climb isn't any faster than that. JPI digital tach. The PCU5000 governor was carefully installed with the cable pushing to the full stop of the arm on the governor. Is this a governor adjustment or a prop fine pitch stop adjustment to get to 2700? If the former, how is it done? I've been searching for PCU5000 manuals online but have come up blank. Can someone supply one? BTW, behavior was pretty similar before overall and prop reseal....engine overall was a good albeit costly experience in general - will post a full pirep later.

What is your max fuel flow at takeoff? As noted above, the approved carbs are 10-3878 and the 10-4164-1. A-3878-M is a 10-3878 that has been modified to be as rich as the 10-4164. I don’t know what -R means, but this could be part of your issue. It is unlikely the entire issue, but the cowl closure will not help. The baffle design here is garbage even in perfect condition- imperfections can make CHTs intractable. Also double check your mag timing, consider retarding it to 23 or so from 25.

I wouldn't touch a cylinder just because of an oily bottom plug. An oily top plug is a different story. High but stable oil consumption within manufacturer limits (as a single data point) can also be watched. Having a spare cylinder available at the moment probably shouldn't influence decision making under most (all?) circumstances.

Hogwash on the A&P's rec if this is the only data they are considering in making the recommendation. A dramatic and rapid rise in oil consumption would make it a consideration to identify the offending cylinder and pull it - it could be a broken ring or more often a stuck oil control ring, or a just a crosshatch that's been badly worn down. Also note bottom plugs get oil on them pretty easily. A oily top plug is much more problematic and usually comes with oil pooling in the cylinder and lots of oil consumption. It can result a stuck oil control ring that MIGHT be freed with various solvent procedures including one Mike Busch advocates - but often this won't work, and you gotta pull it. A borescope exam by someone who knows how to look for evidence of these things (possibly not your A&P) can guide decision making.

I'm curious about your experience adding the adjustable cowl flaps - this is definitely on the to do list for me. Did you source the parts off a salvage bird?

Everyone should have the 10-4164-1 (or the modified version 10-3858) at the very least, given the crappy cooling inherent in the parallel valve cylinder heads, which is further exacerbated by the vintage Mooney cowl design. However, there are substantial idiosyncrasies in cooling air flow, fuel vaporization, mixture distribution, fuel flow, and exhaust scavenging that are specific to "identical" carb/engine/cowl/exhaust setups, even when all the equipment is in good condition. And cooling can get worse when you add power by improving the exhaust side of the equation with a tuned exhaust like Powerflow. The aforementioned shop has expertise in slight carb jet alterations that can improve fuel flow when full rich for takeoff. I suspect doing so will make sense for a lot of folks who have cooling issues and can't get to >18gph for sea level takeoff for unclear reasons.

Thanks - I spoke with Russ the owner at DG Supply, who was very helpful. Since I have a fresh engine overhaul plus a new carb about to be installed, he strongly suggested waiting to see how the carb performs in the real world before sending it to him to bench test and adjust - the bench test alone can't predict. I suspect we'll be pulling it to send to him at annual. He's clearly the right guy to do this work and may be a great resource for the M20C/D/G segment of the Mooney community, particularly the bozos like me who thought the Powerflow was a free lunch

Hi @kortopates and/or @jetdriven - do you have any details on how I might accomplish this alteration on a new Avstar 10-4164-1 carb that is going in with my O-360-A1D overhaul shortly. My setup has the Powerflow. Cooling has always been suboptimal despite chasing all possible etiologies. It got worse since the Powerflow went in. My prior Marvel Schebler 10-41264-1 always made at least 17gph at sea level takeoff, often closer to 18.

Good idea but I replaced all within last 5 years though.

Thanks - the probes are the thing I hadn't thought of. My JPI EGT probes are at 9 years/1200 hours which I think approximates their life expectancy? My CHT, oil, and carb temp probes are the same age but I think last much longer?

I'm nearing overhauled engine install on my M20C and have confidence in the overhaul shop. However, I went with a mechanic on the field for the removal and install whom I don't know very well. I'm rehabbing/replacing everything that makes sense in the process (e.g. fuel and oil hoses, rubber engine mounts, prop resealed). I also have some spare baffle components to rehab my decrepit doghouse. The risk of both maintenance-induced hassle and maintenance-induced disaster in this scenario has me a little stressed. I plan to supervise the details of the install as best I can, taking multiple trips to the shop if necessary until I feel good about taking the plane from the midwest to the east coast. Please help me make a list of things to look out for during the install. I plan to scrutinize all I can without driving my mechanic insane.... Not my plane, stolen from another thread, just adding visual interest

The Mooney pilot sounds like a noob who had a brain fart thinking he needed a clearance to cross an intersecting runway on the landing runway. We've all been that guy in some form or other early in our development. But he gets points for a calm professional demeanor on the radio despite his confusion and the unnecessary commotion on frequency. By contrast, the tower controller is being a d*ck over the Mooney pilot's mistake rather than simply doing his job of managing the conflict that's been created by it. And the Bonanza pilot is being a complete a-hole by ganging up on the Mooney pilot in response to the controller's inappropriate irritation plus the modest inconvenience created for him. His apparent bullying of another pilot on tower frequency makes him the one most deserving of a Brasher warning in my view. At the very least, he should have his Bonanza confiscated and be told he would better fit in with the Cirrus crowd.

Based on prehistoric cave paintings at Lycoming, it's the correct case!! My old one is getting fully rehabbed at DIVCO and be on the market at some point with an 8130 early next year....

Um... that's awesome. Probably not a full replacement for Garmin - In Reach, but it still gives me pleasure not to pay Garmin for one more subscription. I'll stick to my PLB and this for now...

I thought an A at the end of S/N meant wide deck - the case I'm looking at is from a '65 and has a wide deck.

Are the Lycoming O-360-A1D wide deck engine cases on early M20Cs (specifically '65 and '68) interchangeable? I am trying to source a case unexpectedly in the middle of my overhaul. The engine S/Ns in question are L-9102-36A and L-11216-36A. I called Lycoming - they said they had to dig into microfiche records (!) to check, and they haven't gotten back to me. As a member of gen X, I suspect I am among the last humans born to have a clue what microfiche is

Chilling story. Was it Hani Hanjour by any chance? He was the only one of the 4 pilot-trained hijackers who trained in AZ. He flew AA77 a 757-200 into the pentagon. He also had 737 sim time. Or it might have been an accomplice or associate of his who is still alive and potentially traceable, so it may still be worth reporting formally.

DM your email - not sure how to upload here

Here's one I made a while back - I keep meaning to laminate it and put it on the prop. Usually I just refuse to let them tow it these days and insist on taxiing it to the tiedown and securing it myself.

Rarely is the SOS box itself truly the problem; it's not hard to replace if it is...though mounted in an awkward location on cabin side of the firewall. I think what Ross is referring to is that you can crank it forever in start position and then it only fires immediately you give up and move it back to both position. That could be a dead SOS box, it also could be a problem with the left mag. If you turn key to both without pushing in to engage the starter, you can hear the SOS buzz and likely that's fine. If you don't hear the buzz its the SOS box, its connection to the battery, or its connection to the ignition switch. Surefly mags are great but you want to diagnose the problem first. Here's a troubleshooting guide from Don Maxwell for the SOS system, which is a great system overall. https://www.donmaxwell.com/shower-of-sparks

Though satirical, you highlight the overall point of how best to meet the related goals of (1) being courteous, (2) enhancing safety, and (3) covering your butt. The AIM-codified best practices goes a long way toward all three but gets a little silly in some situations and may not go far enough in a few. At the same time, trying too hard to go above and beyond clogs up the freq. with people who just enjoy the sound of their own voice. Saying you've vacated the runway in some form is one of those situations where going above and beyond just make sense to help meet those goals. Also if you're not talking at all in the pattern (and you're not a J3 cub at your own private field) one can reasonably assume you're an a-hole who was too busy meowing on guard.

If a G model, it will be O-360-A1D with shower of sparks (unless left mag converted to electronic ignition - eg Surefly) Be careful not to flood - more than 6 or 7 total throttle pumps will pour out onto your front tire and create fire hazard . If that happens clean it up and walk away for 30 minutes to let fuel vaporize, then use flooded procedure in POH If its suddenly cold for first time where you are that's probably the reason - use ~3-4 pumps before cranking and one or two while you crank, or preheat - that helps enormously! Don't keep pumping if its not working though.... Go easy on the starter - it's easy to fry it, dont crank for more than 15 sec or so. Further troubleshoot is basic fuel/compression/spark/timing consideration; formal lycoming guide helps https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/SSP-475.pdf Ross probably has some more focused tricks distilled from procedures in document, as will most any A&P. I've been in this situation several times - the most interesting one was caused by a loose contact on the ignition switch after getting avionics work done