DXB

The setup of the survey is too vague to discern any meaningful discussion topic or learning point here.

Use them - perfect service, fast turnaround, universally well regarded. If in a big rush just do an overhaul exhange. Crappy mag service = in flight failure. Been there, done that. https://www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net/

This anxiety-provoking thread makes me wonder if I should have formally overhauled my prop rather than IRAN’d/resealed it recently. It’s a 12 year old Top Prop with ~1500hrs that was slinging a modest amount of grease on one blade. It had a few nicks and chips over the years. The engine was getting overhauled so it was a good time to do it. They made it look brand new for less than half the cost of a prop overhaul, and it runs very smooth now even before dynamic balancing. But I wonder if I would hsve gotten much more peace of mind from the careful dye penetrant testing that’s included with overhaul… …and I would love to know what the metallurgy of this failure was….

There is no practical way to do this on a Lycoming engine with current borescopes - the contortions required are extreme. The only way to get a view is pull at least one jug. If you pull one you can use a borescope to see the adjacent cam lobes and lifters, preventing the need to pull two jugs.

Yes you need to run a strong rare earth magnet across the entire surface of the filter - you will likely find lots more. I bet what you have already is 40+ pieces though. This is what my magnet looked like when I had one cam-lifter pair spall...they are small flecks, likely very similar to yours on closeup, but very hard to count. Note this phenomenon may decrease considerably if you run it long enough to keep wearing down the cam lobe, and the only operational difference you may notice is subtly decreased power. BTW I do all my own oil changes, but when this happened I had gotten lazy and was only cutting open every other filter. I pulled the previous one off the shelf and found the same thing. I flew it one more time after that, to the engine shop.

In this case it will tell you that you have ferrous metal, which you already know. It may underestimate the amount since you already pulled much of it off the filter with a magnet. It’s more informative for non-ferrous debris

That’s a fair amount (hard to tell exactly how much based on scale of image), highly suggestive of cam/lifter spalling. Having your mechanic measure how far the valves move when turning the crank may give you confirmation. It’s worth looking at the previous filter if you can get it so you have a trend. Also review lycoming guidance for monitoring once you find metal: https://www.lycoming.com/content/suggestions-if-metal-found-screens-or-filter Sadly, if I were wagering here, I would bet on an overhaul in your near future. It’s not terribly dangerous to run it more, but at some point the metal flakes can trash other components, making your overhaul much more costly

I imagine this requires crank inspection like a prop strike? The asymmetric loads must be enormous

I just had my wimpy O-360-A1D overhauled by a major shop, still nursing my wounds from that. A big bore 6 with a turbo might be a lethal blow.

Limited info here, but engine likely on its last legs - flown 25/hrs year on average since STOH 17 years ago. Also its 27 years SMOH, certainly should be priced as runout. It's in annual but I wonder how long its been sitting recently

It drives itself as a turn coordinator and uses the static source directly for altitude hold I believe. It can take a GPSS input linking to the GPS via a separate box or an Aspen PFD. However, used STEC-30s have to be sent back to the manufacturer to be "recertified" for the STC to be valid. By the time that's done, the cost approaches a new system, so they are rarely re-used.

My C came with these. They do look nice and I don't think they add much weight at all given they're fiberglass. Doubt there's any performance gain speed wise. I've heard they make the roll response a bit more crisp by keeping air attached to the outer edge of the aileron. I'm not sure that's true, but my plane does seem a bit more responsive roll inputs than Mooneys I've flown without them.

Huh - interesting - I always thought Garmin not providing an Aspen interface for the GFC500 was just an annoying business decision. Martin Pauly documented development of an interface in his Bonanza for the Aspen with the GFC600, which is probably made easier by the GFC600 having its own internal AHRS. I still imagine an adapter for the Aspen AHRS with the GFC500 wouldn't be too tough if Garmin saw any business upside in making one/

(1) I'm curious as well - I'd like to replace my current fasteners with these latches (2) The G5 can definitely serve as a legal backup to the AI on the Aspen. You'd have to check the ASPEN STC to see which steam components can be removed based on its backup requirements. Note the Aspen Pro Max PFD with the newer longer life battery requires no legal backups at all. Lastly if the Aspen is your PFD, then a G5 or GI 275 can't drive a GFC-500, which must be controlled by your primary flight display (per my avionics guy - I haven't checked the STC personally).

Update: The "reputable" engine overhauler was not exactly prompt about fixing this issue, making me do all the leg work to find the right part number to correct their mistake and also wait for my first oil change so I could add a qt at a time to prove the marks were incorrect. It ultimately took a phone conversation with Lycoming tech support to figure out what dipstick Mooneys with O-360-A1Ds shipped with. Those minutiae are recorded below in case anyone ever needs them again. The shop owner made it sound like there's no way the dipstick was swapped in his shop - claiming it must have been the remover/installer who did it, a claim that stretches the limits of credulity. After tons of back and forth, he wanted a $300 deposit to send me the replacement before returning the old one, which finally annoyed me enough to say screw you and just buy the correct dipstick off ebay. It does make me wonder what other incorrect parts are on my 32k freshly overhauled engine!! . Anyway, dipstick minutiae are below....thank you Lycoming tech support: Mooneys with O-360-A1Ds originally came with dipstick tube part #75736, which is 11.5” in length - it's one of 3 possible ones on this engine. The original dipstick part number matching this tube is LW14758, 21.25” in length That dipstick has been superceded by part number LW16783-18, 19.44” in length The 1.81” shorter length of the newer part version results in the 4qt mark being just above the bottom of the stick. Based on pictures from internet searches, both dipstick versions have 4,6, and 8 qt markings that are spaced fairly evenly.