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Looking at these prices, I can't believe my eyes. I feel like I should offer to pay them more because its going on an airplane.

Thanks guys...looks like T65 is the ideal spot.

All, my Mooney is in need of an annual and no one here in Corpus Christi seems to want to work on Mooney’s. I’m looking for recommendation for either a shop or an independent mechanic who might be able to help me out. I am based out of KCRP and have a shared hangar so I am unable to perform any mx on the field. I would like to keep things within a 100-200 miles of CRP.

I may need to do the same thing this annual. My pump also will build pressure as yours does but then drops off immediately as the pump is switched off. I see absolutely no pressure fluctuations when the throttle is pumped. I suppose at $114 bucks, it’s worth replacing and checking.

Can't comment specifically on your device but I have an EDM-830 with FF and adjusting it is a very simple process. My first fuel flow transducer malfunctioned and I had to replace it but it would show zero most of the time and erratic readings other times. A replacement unit fixed the issue. Changing the K-factor is a very simple process using the formula provided in the instruction book. It has been great so far and I will never fly another plane without it.

I'm doing a rather long trip with my dad from Corpus Christi, TX to Hayward next month as well. I'll be keeping the mooney there for almost a month out on the ramp. I called last week to check their fees and they said it would cost $50/week. I'm going to see if I can get one week waived. Fuel prices are also very reasonable there compared to Oak. I'm really looking forward to this trip of a lifetime.

Been though this already. I caught it on the outbound taxi when then the pedals went right down to the floor. FBO was good about it and got it all fixed up within a couple weeks and bought us southwest tickets instead.

Super easy to fly over or through the NY class B. I normally fly from viginia beach to KISP and start my descent over Sandy hook. I'll ask for an early turn direct to KISP and approach is usually accommodating. If they can't clear me for the descent there, they have me fly direct JFK to cross at 5500' and then direct KISP while descending. Very easy to deal with.

Taking the rotor you see in the pictures and attempting to make it turn safely at up to 40k RPM. The goal is to get 30lbs to thrust out of it. The teeth you see on the spinner act as a retaining ring to hold the blades together and prevent any individual blade from departing the rotor hub above their rated RPM. I'm hopeful this electric fan will be a good replacement for small and very expensive turbines used on RC jets. the 5th pictures there is a tailcone that will go on the back of the brushless motor and clean up the high velocity airflow. It will also give the motor some support as it weighs over 2lbs while allowing me to route the motor wires out into the fuselage using one of the 3 spokes. Here is a video of what happens when a blade decides to leave the rotor:

3d printing is indeed amazing. I do a small amount of manufacturing using 3D printing via shapeways.com. My latest project was a spinner that must be made from stainless steel pictured below both in 3D and also in stainless. The cost to do this is less than $50/piece. Compare that to $250/piece for a CNC prototype using a 5 axis machine which is the only way to make something this complicated. I also added some pictures of another part that I'm printing out of plastic. This part can not be made any other way due to some of the complex structure. 3D printing is definitely the future.

I've been told worst case 25k by a shop out in Cali. You will most likely be around 20K+ depending on what needs replacing.

Yes that's one way to do it. I should have clarified but my experience with foam backed airtex carpet was that it would stretch and shift wherever it was not secured by whatever method someone chooses. This was mostly because the foam backing provides zero structure to it. In comparison, a carpet with a harder backing will have a structure and it'll be less likely to move and shift as you enter and exit. The heavily trafficked parts of the airtex carpet were looking "stretched", if that makes any sense when compared to other areas.

At $49/yard, there is no need to go with auto carpet IMO. The carpet I'm looking at is much better quality than the carpet in my cars. The material holding the carpet fibers together is a flexible plastic and will be very easy to secure to the floor without fear of it moving around. Theres no drama here as far as I can tell...just sharing information. To each his own though.

Since several of you have asked for the pattern, here is my plan: I am going to order 2 yards of carpet and do all the cutting and fitting myself in order to ensure a near perfect fit. Once complete, I'm going to send it off to SCS and have them finish the binding. I will also make improvements to the pattern once I know the carpet is fitting well and make a good second copy of it. From there, I'll mail off the pattern to the first person who asked for it. We can just continue sharing it as needed. I will see if SCS can simply use the cut carpet that I will mail them as a pattern for future purposes.

Good question. I can send a better picture and you might be able to compare.

I am installing new carpet in my C because the carpet I bought from airtex about a year ago is absolute crap. I did not know any better at that point and thought I should warn all you looking to re-do your carpet. The carpet I bought was pre-cut, extremely poorly and the fit was absolutely atrocious to say the least. I also ended up with an oil leak in the cabin at one point which soaked into the carpet making my decision to remove it even easier. This time I'm taking a different approach with a different company. SCS interiors sent me some samples of their products a while back and I immediately noticed the much higher quality of their carpets. They have a flexible plastic backing rather than cheap foam and the carpet itself is very dense and feels much better than the garbage I purchased previously. Additionally, the price is very very fair at $49/yard. My C will require less than 2 yards. They can also cut any pattern we send and bind as needed. One big difference with the non-pre cut carpet is that a pattern has to be made and mailed off. So, that's what I did last weekend. The new carpet will fit so much better and look a 100 times better than what I had previously. I will be mailing the pattern out to them this week and should have the carpet next week. At this point, I think the total cost will be less than $250 for everything. This is a much better deal than airtex. I have attached a picture of the pattern that was made using large poster card stock. If anyone else needs it for their 63C, please let me know.

Finally have this very important safety upgrade finished and I am very pleased with how it turned out. Like others have mentioned, the fuel selector is not reachable by those without monkey arms once all buckled in. However, it's not a big deal as you can either quickly loosen the shoulder strap or simply slide out from under the shoulder strap to take care of it. The same applies to CLOSING the door only. Opening is a right arm operation only. Everything else on the panel is easily reached.

Almost done. Passenger side did not require window removal.

Install started this week and unfortunately required the windows to be removed from the pilot side. There just wasn't enough room to get the clamp in there without it. Hopefully this will not hurt the wallet too much. Pictures are shown below.

I wasn't aware they made them. I already ordered and received the ones from Alpha. I'll take a look though if these ones give me problems.

Ok I had a chance to stop by at the hangar to take some pics and confirm a couple of things. Pictures of the TSO tag are attacked as well as a picture of the level mechanism. I had originally mentioned a price tag of $450 but the receipt shows it to be $417. So that's def music to our ears. Secondly, the new shoulder belt is not compatible with my old lap belt lift lever. To make the old one work, you would have to grind away some material from the lap belt connector. This is a bad idea for obvious reasons.

I too waited perhaps a little too long but I'm glad we do not have to pay and arm and a leg for this crucial upgrade. At $450, I guess we can say it is only costing us a single arm. Once I get this installed and people are able to see the results, it would not be a bad idea for several of you to do a group buy and possibly reduce the cost some more. I did not pursue this myself but they seem like a company that would be willing to work with us.

Just spoke with Hooker Harness and confirmed there is a TSO and it is sewn directly on the seatbelt itself. I'll take some pictures of this later as well.

Considering these same items are used in many certified A/C, the paperwork you are looking for should not be difficult to find. Like I said though, if all else fails, field approval is at your disposal or you can simply fly without these or spend some more to get a piece of paper to go along with the same items.

To clarify a couple of things, I am going forward with this install based on the FAA guidance posted above. Nowhere in that guidance does it explicitly say that you can't replace the original lap belts as a part of the shoulder belt install. If this was the FAA's intent, they would have specified it as one of the requirements. We can lawyer this one to death but let's save that for another thread. Worse comes to worst, I will seek a field approval but I do not believe that is necessary here. Another thing I will check is to see if I can simply use the new shoulder belt with the original lap belts. The new belts are a lever style just like the old ones and the shoulder belt may simply work with the old stuff. I'll post back on this issue when I can confirm it.