Ragsf15e

Yeah that looks really nice! Clean, great engine monitor position and data, etc. good choice on the audio panel too! Is radio 2 easy enough to reach? That’s the one thing with our panels, you run out of vertical space quickly. I’ve thought about putting my transponder where yours is when I upgrade my autopilot to a gfc500 since it has a control panel - i want that in my center stack. You rarely need to touch the transponder.

As doc said, you might want to check voltage several places before adjusting. Ideally check just off the alternator (carefully, with long cables), at your bus, and back at the battery. Good chance you see 14v off the alternator, but have a bad connection and are “losing” some through resistance somewhere else.

I’m still trying to picture this… what are the nails for? Just to see where each screw is going to poke through?

And while you’re in there, the wing attach bolts are under the aft part of that fairing. The duct tape mentioned above is supposed to keep them water tight, but they are often a little rough… maybe some corrosion x, lps 3 or whatever while you have it open.

Clarence are there supposed to be tinnermans behind all those little screws holding that fairing on at the wing root? I swear mine are straight into the sheet metal… but maybe that’s why they don’t hold well. Are they clip on “U” tinnermans or the flat ones that are just on the back of the hole? If the flat ones, how do you hold them on to install them? I want to remove the fairing to look at my wing attach bolts again and spray some more lps3 on them, but I’m afraid of that fairing!

Nice one! I’ll have to try that. I also looked through the map/menu settings on my way home from Boise today and do not see a specific setting. In either case, I’m not sure I’d trust it even though it’s probably accurate. I think I’ll stick to my faa published maps on FF.

You shouldn’t need an additional gps antenna for a g5 or -275. Is your 430 waas? If not, possibly glareshield antenna under your panel, but not external. If you have a waas gps, then you can just use input from that. I read your priorities, but… if you’re going to do it, do enough to really enjoy it and get the benefits. That means get 2 g5s or 2 -275s. No more vacuum, you get a nice new hsi, automatic backup, etc. possibly you can do the same with an av-30 x 2? I don’t know, but in either case, Id do enough to see good improvement. Adding the gmu in the tail or wing isn’t a huge deal. personally, ive read enough on MS about people having issues with lag in AV-30s that id probably stick with Garmin, but others are happy. I really like my 2 G5s connected to my -430W. @PT20J has both products (av-20s), maybe he can comment?

I think you’ll find it useful in your J as well if you ever fly higher. Down low you can just pull to 9gph ff / 75% as you indicated and be pretty good. Up higher where you’re limited by the MP, it’s nice to know exactly where peak is. If you get high enough, you’ll probably want to run ROP just for want of more power, but 9-11000’, LOP still works ok, but there’s a noticeable speed difference between peak and 30 LOP. Either setting is likely cool enough on the CHTs as you’re only making 60-65% power. I like to set mine just barely LOP up there and then see how that works for chts and speed. If you’re impatient, you can add 4-6kts by going back to 100ROP. Its nice to be able to be relatively precise with it when power is limited.

I leave mine connected to a battery minder any time it’s in my hangar. It’s wired to their special connector, connected directly to the battery. The connector is run into the baggage area near the hatch so it’s easy to hook up. Never had an issue. What did the lights on the minder show when you hooked it up? It gives you a basic indication. Also, -27 amps sounds like it wasn’t charging… like your alternator wasn’t on yet?

Well than either will work with your current autopilot. If i was thinking future g3x, I’d go with the g5. If i was going any other direction, I’d probably do the gi-275 as it’s newer, has more options and fits round holes.

The G5 is designed to work with the g3x and is seamless. The gi-275 is not. @PT20J has details. But stuff like setting the altimeter on a g5 crossfills to the g3x, but not the -275? Skip has more info. What autopilot do you have now though? The -275 is compatible with more legacy autopilots than g5.

Looks great! I’m curious… airspeed indicator is nice, but why’d you keep it? Another gi-275 there as an mfd would be great! Maybe even one that could double as an asi?

The takeoff and climb performance is highly dependent on weight and weather. Also, Mooney’s performance tables were not always accurate. It’s pretty tough to tell just from takeoff/climb if something is wrong, but if you really only see 2550, that isn’t right.

You know the airplane and have been flying it for years, so your reaction is different than mine, but if I saw that on takeoff roll vs my normal 2650 increasing to 2700, I would abort. Granted, that could be a fine distinction on your gage.

Yeah that’s not good. You’re gonna need to dig into that. Step one is probably checking that gage.

Is that a static runup or rolling ~50mph? Usually static is a little lower than max, but you should be able to hit max rpm during takeoff. Someone will be along with the specific numbers for you. I believe there’s a static rpm number and then obviously you want to be able to get to the max. You can use some phone apps to check your rpm gage as well. They work pretty well.

Lasar has had them on their website ($$) in the past. You might also find one from salvage. Make sure a salvage one isn’t internally corroded. Is there evidence of a covered over hole in the belly behind the wing? Might have some sheet metal work there…

I think those of us with the Dukes actuators are going to have significant issues soon too… the gears wear (even the 40:1 gears) and require special grease (which is available but maybe not always used?). There was someone looking for a set of gears recently on here who couldn’t find them. I suspect that’s going to be a tough part to source and possibly grounding. Maybe we convert back to J bar?

I agree it’s useful as a check. My jpi % power seems pretty close to the poh when ROP and it’s really close LOP. I don’t know what the use as an algorithm ROP, but if you use lean find-LOP, they must just be multiplying ff by ~14.5? I hop it works for you!

When I was teaching for the local flight school, the SR-20s were all set to single cue. I didn’t like it, but it wasn’t terrible. When I started flying a G1000 for work, I set it to dual cue. To me it’s easier to separate the commands when I’m hand flying or setting the autopilot before engaging. It just makes it easier for me to see and separate which “dimension” it’s trying to command for.

Lean more. If you’re on the ground leaned as you described waiting for a few people to land, lean farther. So far that the engine is right on the edge of roughness/stopping. To see if you’re lean enough, try to add power… it should stumble/die. If you consistently get that lean on the ground, it’s pretty hard to takeoff like that since the engine will die when you add power.

I’ve filled my portable a few times. It was readily available, but costs varied wildly.

Mine was on the engine side of the firewall, pilots side. 68 F also. But maybe it was moved at some point? It’s out now, surefly mag installed.

I fly in Spokane wa with an F and my oil stays 180 even In very cold air. Like -20C. You should be fine without.

The portable 2 person versions are fine. You can end up with hoses all over the place but it’s not terrible. I have an older aerox that came with masks too but I’ve never used them. Realistically, your O isn’t gonna be cruising above 18,000’ often since it’s not turbo.