duke

oil press will drop off when hot and at idle rpm. nowhere near lycs min hot oil specs. I don't know what the specs are on your cont, but i would expect to to drop considerably hot at idle also. I use phillips 20-50 in the f and shell 15-50 in the s.

I would have to agree. My f with speed mods is a lot more slippery than my s. s has speed brakes which i rarely use after being used to the f. The s with the big 3 blade out front is a lot easier to slow down. Poh also says it has a 11% greater glide ratio than standard 2 blade.

depends on snakes problem. eg. large constipated snake-lots of castor oil additive--large snake with loose bowels--lots of imodium additive.

I have used the same solution as jose. Use a piece of fine copper or aluminum wire (not lock wire) as it will mold to screw and threads in hole and not cause more damage.

make shure it isn't slightly binding in its travel. adjustment procedure is in the sm

on my f the bracket can be removed. You will have to modify an allen wrench to it. Its bolted to the back of prop governor. Cut off short end of wrench short enough to get it on to capscrew. I extended the long arm and it works ok. As a last resort, remove lower cowling, attatch eng to hoist and take weight off. remove top motor mount bolts and loosen bottom ones. let engine sag down and you can gain a bit of extra room at rear.

amen.

in my opinion the j is probably the one. At the levels you and I fly, the j is comparable in cruise speed to the 252. I don't know for sure but I think the j has a larger usefull load. If you fly a lot out of higher alt airports (above 4000 ft) the 252 is a big plus. The j and 252 are probably the best that ever came out of kerrivil.

For all you young guys with babys in the house, spirit away a baby bottle. they are graduated in oz and have a cap. Very handy to measure out any liquid. Also handy when changing fork oil in motorcyles. Me--I get grandkids old bottles. You inbetweeners will have to rely on friends or break down and blow a dollar or two at the nearest baby supply store.

My f was the same way. I always ran it at 6.5 and added when it went down to 5.5. I was thinking of an oil seperator untill I read brians article and now am thinking of taking it off on my m20s.

I ordered my key from a msc and it took a couple of weeks. I also talked to medeco and this is the route you have to take according to what I was told.

in 1990 it is actually a tls with bravo conversion (wet head) early conversions had a problem with i believe hose size. I believe all the conversions have been done in north america. I ran across one in europe that hadn't been done. As always A THOUGH PREBY.

I agree with Marauder as long as repairs were done properly, which they probably were, as it was 35 yrs and 35 inspections ago. Whether a damage history or not, a thorough preby by a mooney savy a&p is essential.

if you have the medeco lock the easiest way is to get it from mooney--expensive though. my key was only $25, but in canada by the time brokerage, shipping etc etc it was a 75 or 80 dollar key. If you can find a medeco dealer (locksmith) they may be able to make you one if you have the old key. I just finished jumping through all the hoops.

G0t mine a few days ago---very pleased at the quality

I agree with marauder. On my F I always figured about 20 knts max. J should be about the same. Take your bird to and do some practice approaches on a runway with a good xwind. you don't have to land. When you run out of rudder you have reached the planes max, which is usually more than my comfort zone>

To cold for hanger fairies here, -40 wind chill as I type. Howeaver I do have a hardy little hanger elf that is pretty handy.

I currently own the first restoration project, bought it 7 yrs ago. It has been a very good plane. Have since installed an ei eng monitor and fuel flow instruments. Cleaned up some 40 yr old wiring behind panel, installed avionics master and a 496 installed in gizmo in radio stack. It has many speed mods--cowl closure 201 ws, fiberglass one piece belly, oil cooler relocation etc. A lot of my pilot friends were agast that I would fly in a thing that had been stripped down that much d put back together. All in all, I have had no major issues and have spent a lot less than a lot of them that have non damage issue aircraft. After the good luck I have had with the F I got seduced by the pain, big eng and 530, 430 and 696 in the panel of a rebuilt m20s. Hope I have as good luck with it.

chuck ney enterprizes in tulsa repairs cases. I am currently running one of his engines in my f model. It has the ney nozzles, reenforced cases and straight bores. only about 400 hrs on it, but good so far.

I thought engine turned fan to keep pilot cool--noise though. when noise stops, fan stops and pilot sweats.

that one will work, but you will have to get a simm card from local provider etc. It also has an internal antenna. Probably won't work if you have a metal hanger. Phillips box comes with completely wired (with 2 outlets) activated simm card and aux ext ant that can be mounted outside of a metal building. His price is the same as sporty's with ohe outlet, no simm card and no ext ant.

right on Paul. I would never fly after jump starting. Too many things in our birds depend on proper batt voltage--expensive garmins, auto pilots etc.

I agree with Hank. When batt voltage is low amp draw increases when a load is applied, especially elect motor load(gear actuator) This is because it takes a certain amount of power to do job (retract gear) and the only way is by amp draw increase. eg--12 v starter takes twice as many amps as a 24v starter. Thisis is why with batt low it is harder on all associated components.

sounds like a sweet C. A few speed mods and it will be almost as fast as a J