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Is the installation of the ALY-8520 accomplished with an STC? I’d think that paperwork would include the part numbers for the brackets? If I remember, @Ragsf15ehad an F model (and he’s since upgraded to the Encore) but if you can track down the STC paperwork that might help your search for the right bracket.

I did almost the same, but used a scrap piece of baffle. Not installed yet in the picture, I ran a .032” safety wire between the screws so the baffle wouldn’t fall off. (And I replaced the exhaust ball-joint hardware with castellated nuts and cotter pins.) The landing light lens cover may cure more vibration than you realize. When previous owner installed the 3-blade McCauley, he didn’t like the vibes. Had the prop dynamically balanced, still not happy. Smoothing of the cowling surface with the lens cover is what finally made him happy.

I don’t think it’s from your Airplane. If it was maybe look near the alternator attachments and brackets. There is a lot of movement up there. -Matt

It’s probably heat, vibration, or a combination of the two. On my 1964 M20C, the exhaust runs very close to the back of my LED landing light. I put an insulator on the back of the light and also the power wire to protect from the heat. I leave my landing light on 100% of the time. https://www.amazon.com/Peastorm-Automotive-Aluminum-Material-Insulation/dp/B0BX4LHQFV/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3R301M5FCJOXT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.X8-E20apS5KXh8QN_b2ysQPcg-5W6PvzAMLy8BQfSbqvILP4mASqnNseqp2rW4I6j8JqD-oXaF7l1GnwUCJW_8rs5hSXKTElz_sx3pXhjTXnvxSq8NET-NCNiXvSmsbfqhp5Mvq3VtzONdFH5awIGq1UP-Y08o2mWh53k9DWp4YmqpUF6vxB5VlcVWMamJGtJhdA-en1V8bBDbTa2sgWmhu_VJUhTszke-j7AXj2rj4.fFEuNCWLzF4Qz9QR2Im_sMCBTc-MDD44aUslEwS_1UA&dib_tag=se&keywords=car%2Bexhaust%2Binsulation&qid=1757866707&sprefix=car%2Bexhaust%2Binsulation%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-10&th=1

I forgot to mention that my comments about Mooney's lack of information in the POH are relative to the 1977 POH for my J. It appears that later aircraft POH's included additional information and recommendations that align to my findings today (and a lot of your recommendations) and would have been greatly appreciated if included in my POH!

One thing you can do if you are using incandescent is to orient the filament vertical. That makes it less susceptible to breaking. The factory did this on the R models and up. It requires cutting a new orientation notch in the retaining ring. That said, do not discount the value of prop balance. It makes everything from avionics to fasteners last longer. I usually get 3-5 years out of a balance.

I really appreciate all of the inputs on this topic. The article about landing a Mooney reinforced a lot of what I have been told. My one "complaint" with GA aircraft ownership relative to this topic is the lack of "truth data" regarding the flight characteristics and OEM provided operating techniques (all relative to what I am accustomed to with military aircraft operations). I feel certain that the lack of data and recommendations is due to the OEM's concern for liability (not unfounded) if they provide detailed recommendations that someone claims leads to a mishap. Bottomline, missing this information leads us all to essentially acting as test pilots and having to discover for ourselves the "right answers." Unless you find a CFI that is experienced in your type/model/series aircraft, they may not have the capability to teach you safe techniques for your specific aircraft. So, relying upon the best data as recommended (POH) and the best "consensus" on technique, I went out to discover for myself some numbers. Here are the numbers I captured in my flight today (stall warning, Vso, 1.2xVso and 1.3Vso - all in MPH): full flaps (65, 61, 74, 80), takeoff flaps (68, 63, 76, 82), no flaps (74, 68, 82, 88). All of this data was captured at 3000' MSL, gear down, level flight, about 15" MAP and roughly 2500 pounds. Each stall was taken to a true "break" and not just airframe buffet (occurs about 2-3 mph prior to the break). First note is that the aircraft stalls in an incredibly predictable manner, no bad behavior (stall tone, then airframe buffet, then a nose beak with only a small roll off that is easily countered) and recovery is very controllable with almost no altitude loss. I then performed a series of circus landings using the technique recommended from the article: approach at 1.3xVso and cross threshold at 1.2xVso, idle power and a smooth roundout. No flap landing was not dramatic and when flown on the numbers above was very straightforward (resulting in the aforementioned higher nose up attitude), same story for takeoff flap (I can see why there are a lot of folks who prefer this configuration as their "normal") and full flaps was definitely more predictable and controllable using these numbers and this technique (however, as mentioned, it results in a flatter attitude but comes with the benefits of the shortest landing rollout). Conclusion, previous to today, I was carrying 4-5 mph more than necessary as I was flying at 1.3xVso all the way to roundabout. Slowing to 1.2xVso across the threshold was a game changer. Given the 13mph buffer between 1.2xVso and stall, I feel "okay" about this technique, but sure would love it more if Mooney had provided the test flight data and recommended techniques to go along with my test flight.... Hope everyone has a great day. Fly safe and fly happy!

Ah yeah, their site seems to be having issues. It won't open at all for me at the moment. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I can believe that, I've seen vibration roll properly torqued nuts right off a bolt on heavy equipment. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

At a previous job we did HALT (Highly Accelerated Life Testing) testing on circuit boards. With enough vibration, the surface mount parts start popping off like popcorn.

Spinner? In confused. The first link is a PAR46 sized rubber gasket. Second link, which is broken on the server side right now, is for a piece of clear acrylic that covers the landing light recess to allegedly reduce the wind buffet on the lamp. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I may actually have an aly-8520 in my hangar collecting dust. It was working as well, but could probably stand new guts. We took it off my ‘68F and installed a new plane power alternator only to find that the alternator wasn’t the problem. Eventually I found a slightly corroded connection that was causing my issue, so long story short, I have an alternator. Ill get a picture of it this afternoon. The bracket might be tricky. Have you tried BAS? I’ll look, but i thought my mechanic reused my bracket for the pp alt.

I'm no expert, but that doesn't look like a spinner to me.

I think it's a year, if I remember right. First one died outside that, this one only lasted 8-9 months. I'm going to see if I can get them to warranty it. I did get a different brand this time, the problem though is that the Aero is $200 and the Whelen is $400. I'm scared to spend more and end up with the same short life. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

You are probably right. Do they have a warrantee? Maybe you can keep sending them back. Have you tried a different brand? Maybe they would be more robust.

I have a C model (stole this pic of an E, it's the same setup) with the light in the lower right. It's got 2 adjusting screws in the back and has a retaining ring that goes inside the recess right next to the light that's held in with 4 sheet metal screws and tinnerman nuts. Does what you're showing work with that? It looks to me like it's more for the J model where the light is in the center? I may be mistaken though, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I don't even fly at night. About 50% of the time, I turn it on when I'm on final. Mine just die. The first one would work sometimes and other times not. Usually, it would not on preflight and then would after flying for a while, I thought it was a wiring issue. I replaced all the wiring and breakers when I redid my panel and it made no difference. This time, it just failed, no intermittent. The only thing I can come up with is vibration is killing it, I'm open to other theories though. It's super annoying because my OCD won't let me just live with it failed even though I don't need it. I like flying a squawk free airplane, it took me 2 years to clear up every one of them after I bought it and I just don't want to start accumulating non-critical squawks again. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

Someone with real J-model knowledge will be along shortly… A ‘78 J would be an early serial number, yes? Would the applicable figure in the IPC be 71-10-00? Index 27 and 28 relevant to the cowl flap hinge, with Note 3 reference to using -500 part numbers (depending on the serial number) and SB M20-231. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-231.pdf Regardless of everything I said above, try a longer bolt to get two or three threads protrusion through the nutplate. Or, do the M20-131 (if it applies).

Possibly I used the wrong word.............exhaust flange. On my former Lycoming O-360 and IO-360, the exhaust headers from the cylinders were attached to the muffler tubes with 3 hole flanges [header and muffler], 3 bolts [such as the one shown in the photo], 3 tension springs, spacer washers and nuts w/cotter pins. As I look at the bolt photo further, yes, I agree the bolt does look too large to be one of the bolts for the exhaust joints.

My old M20F used to eat landing lights. They only quit when I touched down. I started turning it off on short final and then turning it back on to taxi. My theory was if the filament was hot and soft, the slightest bump would knock it apart. I can’t explain why the LED lights would fail for the same reason. BTW, I landed so many times without the landing light on, I still turn it off when I land. The light freaks me out now. It gets the tower excited sometimes when I turn it off.

Nice install of my seals !

We extrude a u channel seal for the nose bracket light and two seals for the nose light Assy one on each side of the flange ams3320.093 I have not seen your installation maybe this would help

I'm sure a dynamic balance would make a difference, not discounting that at all. That said, for the sake of argument let's say I'm at .06 or so since I'm not feeling it, shouldn't a $200 PMAed landing light be able to handle that for more than a few months? Prop balance changes over time anyway so, even if I got it down to .01 in a year it might be .04+ again from prop wear. I'm thinking that if I can dampen the vibration at the lamp either instead of or in addition to reducing overall vibration, that it will help. I ordered one of these - https://skygeek.com/whelen-4006300-gasket.html. Hopefully it helps some, it definitely can't hurt. These - https://www.aeroresourcesinc.com/product_category/product_detail/61 - are supposed to reduce wind buffet and help as well, $115 for a piece of acrylic seems expensive though. If someone else has installed one and can confirm it makes a difference, it would be worth it to save the expense or replacing lamps, I don't want to be the guinea pig for that price though.

Yes, my battery was moved to the tail. This aircraft has pretty much every speed mod and trick applied to it. There's no free lunch.