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Posted

PTK said "For hot start: Throttle is at ~1000RPM or so from last shutdown and mixture is ICO. I don't touch anything. Simply turn the key. 

When she fires, which is typically in a couple blades, in comes mixture helping her smooth out. Don't need full mixture. Just enough to smooth her out. Again use your judgment as to how hot is hot and apply some variation either way."

 

Agree.  I should have said Richer instead of Rich in my cookbook.  Pushing the mixture in requires a little feel to get it running smoothly.  Too rich a mixture can kill it, especially at high DA.

Posted

Understand that's a COLD start. As in first start of the day for example. Use your judgment. I count about 8 mississippi's or so max with boost pump.

For hot start: Throttle is at ~1000 RPM or so from last shutdown and mixture is ICO. I don't touch anything. Simply turn the key.

When she fires, which is typically in a couple blades, in comes mixture helping her smooth out. Don't need full mixture. Just enough to smooth her out. Again use your judgment as to how hot is hot and apply some variation either way.

Always lean brutally for ground ops.

As crazy as it sounds I've had more trouble with cold starts than hot. My hot start is like yours. My cold is to firewall everything, 3 seconds of boost, crack the throttle an inch and light it. It works bit unreliable and sometimes a lot of cranking. I'm anxious to try your cold start technique. Thanks again. -Kevin
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Posted

I would be very worried about internal damage to any engine that drained a battery three times before starting. Your camshaft and many other internal part depend on splash lubrication not pressure lubrication.

I would consider having your ignition system checked over, spark plug internal resistance, ignition wire resistance, clean ends and springs of all wires, and finally magneto 500 checks and magneto to engine timing. All of these are cheaper than engine damage.

Clarence

that is exactly what i was about to recommend, slow starting is usually an indication of an ignition problem not fuel.

 

Brian

Posted

Yes I take Clarence's point about lots of revolutions without proper lubrication....it did/does concern me....in terms of the ignition system, I personally assisted in the timing check at annual 35hrs ago and both magnetos were spot on...and the 500hr checks were done about 100hrs ago during engine overhaul...and bear in mind both normal Cold starts and Hot starts (within 15 mins of shutdown after long flights) are no problem, I don't suspect the ignition system....I think it is bad technique/ignorance that is the problem! In hindsight I think I was too quick to abandon the Hot start procedure and then proceeded to flood the engine without recognizing it....But I am considering a Skytek starter....

Posted

If the ignition system is sound, then cranking system should be checked, battery, battery cables, master relay, battery ground contact, starter relay internal resistance, starter relay power cables, starter power cable, starter motor, and engine ground cable. Sky Tec starters have a nice troubleshooting flow chart to guide you.

Clarence

Posted

Hello

 

we had really bad starts as well, both cold and hot. Turned out to be a wrong idle/mixture adjustment after having two cylinders pulled due to oil leak on the intake pipes 2 and 4.

 

Why the mechanic touched the mixture adjustments after replacing the cylinders is beyond me. Before the cylinder check she would start within 1-2 blades when cold.

Posted

I also discovered that the ICO stop on the fuel servo had fallen out....wasn't wire locked...luckily it was lying in the down under the landing light....anyway without the stop pulling the mixture all the way out causes the ICO to go past where it should and allows fuel into the cylinders.....not what you want for a hot start....I discovered it on shut-down when the engine ran on a bit....hopefully that was the cause of my multiple attempt failed start

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