Bob_Belville

I guess you are talking about the panel height. How much higher is the 201 panel? My E has a modern panel now and it is pretty high for a short pilot like me but I don't remember what my old E was like.

If I can piggyback on KSMooniac's thread for similar info, we're flying from KMRN to KIWI (Western NC to Wiscasset ME) either Friday or Saturday. I think I'll fuel at KMFV or near there and my question is preferred routing IFR over/through NY. Years ago I often went right over KJFK @ 9000 so I'm looking at KMFV-CYN-JFK-HFD-KIWI. Will I get that routing? Last year I stopped in Lancaster PA for the same trip but east of DC is shorter if NY center is cooperative.

With a 201 windshield on my E, eliminating the original access panel in front of the windshield, the hydraulic reservoir is exceedingly inconvenient to get to.and impossible to check the level. I top it off whenever I have the top cowl off via fitting through the firewall as a precaution.

B26, redline is 245. (CHT is 475) but modern wisdom seems to be to try to keep @200 or less which I'm finding very tough at least during climb. I plan to swap out the oil cooler at annual next month. And I may try pulling back power for climb. I've been using full power but years ago SOP was to pull back to 25/2500 @ about 1000 AGL. (My oil cooler is already relocated to behind #4 cyl.)

What I listed was the oil temp and rpm at startup roll. The temps quickly get to near 200 in climbeven in cold weather. Sorry for the confusion.

This prop was new in 2009, 150 hours. Since it was a new Scimitar Top Prop I suppose the governor was new but the log book does not detail that.

What's involved in verifying? Risk of sudden failure of something?

Tony, good point. I should have included the OP. Risky to guess, but I'm pretty sure my OP is inversely related to Temp but stays well in the green. I'll look at the hot flights. Hottest flight: while rpm was indicating over 2720 (for 3 datum point @ 6 sec) OP was 75psi and OT was 218. The rpm then dropped to ~ 2640, I probably gave the knob a small twist, OP @67, OT @ 224. Another flight: rpm @ 2724 for 4x 6 sec, OP 77, OT 193. When OT climbed to 212 1 minute later the OP dropped to 69. Seems reasonable to me?

Sure, fwiw this plane had an EI electronic tach before the 930. And of course the oil temps are somewhat nominal. The 930 records on 6 sec intervals and the temps generally jump in 6degF increment and the Oil Temp probe is not in the prop hub!

Perhaps I should I talk to Hartzell about the max rpm/oil temp correlation? Even if my tach is off, which I'm doubting, the correlation exists.

Looking at the data from 30 take offs, I'm thinking it is unlikely the tach is the issue.

Byron, I went back to the data from the JPI 930 and noted the max rpm. On take off. It definitely correlates closely to oil temp. The max rpm looks fine as long as oil temp is below 195. I would not think I would want to move the stop which would cost me power on most take offs. I could back off prop knob position when Oil Temp is over 195F. This would only be when taking off when the engine is already hot. But perhaps there's an underlying problem? Flt# date max rpm oil temp 18 28-Dec 2641 145 37 2-Feb 2655 150 16 28-Dec 2644 152 21 4-Jan 2648 157 41 15-Feb 2656 163 7 19-Dec 2650 168 52 18-Feb 2662 170 70 11-Apr 2655 173 35 29-Jan 2653 174 72 28-May 2654 176 50 15-Feb 2659 176 12 23-Dec 2695 176 39 14-Feb 2652 177 69 10-Apr 2657 181 63 1-Apr 2667 181 48 15-Feb 2652 184 31 18-Jan 2686 186 25 4-Jan 2681 187 76 31-May 2661 188 60 24-Nov 2666 188 27 4-Jan 2691 189 44 15-Feb 2691 193 46 15-Feb 2687 195 58 18-Feb 2701 198 81 16-Jul 2724 199 54 18-Feb 2714 200 23 4-Jan 2724 201 83 16-Jul 2751 218 78 31-May 2725 224 74 28-May 2726 228

Hum. My A&P/IA does not think his optical tach would be more accurate than what I have with the JPI 930...

Byron, I think the high speed might be a function of oil temp (& viscosity) I pulled up a December flight and note that rotation rpm was 2644. oil was 166f. Compared to 2750 RPM with 218 F oil temp. Is that possible?

I see RPM as high as 2750 right at take off. It's a busy moment with manual gear and flaps to retract but I twist the prop knob just a little and RPM drops 100 RPM. I think it would probably stabilize but I'd rather not leave it in overspeed. This is a Hartzell Top Prop (Scimitar) on an IO360A1A. Should I get governor adjusted?

I put a set of Tempest UREM 38S in my IO360 A1A ('66E) last year. I'm well satisfied. I also had fine wire plugs in my first Mooney years ago, probably close to 2000 hours of trouble free operation. And @ $50 per plug for the Tempest, they're cheaper than massives, per hour. The only negative I hear is that they're fragile and should not be dropped on the floor. Well, duh!

ISTM. if the Mixture stays full rich you are very likely to flood while cranking.

Where's the spec sheet?

This comprehensive check list is not original with me but it works with my E. Cold starting the IO-360 in the M20E · Master switch on · Throttle, prop and mixture controls full forward · Boost pump on 5 seconds · Mixture to IDLE/CUTOFF · Throttle: pull back to ~ 1000 rpm · Engage starter · When the engine fires, release starter key and firmly (but not rapidly) move mixture control to full rich · After engine is running, lean mixture control out for smooth idle Recommended Engine Shutdown Procedure in the M20E · Idle the engine at 1000-1100 RPM · Pull the mixture control to idle /cutoff from this idle speed · DON”T TOUCH THE THROTTLE. Leave it at the setting it was at for the 1000-1100 RPM idle speed used to shut down · Ignition switch off after the engine spools down · Master switch off Hot Start procedure for the IO-360 in the M20E · Master switch on · DON’T TOUCH THE THROTTLE, PROP OR MIXTURE CONTROLS. (Throttle @ ~1000 RPM Position, Mixture @ IDLE/CUTOFF, prop @ full forward) · Engage the starter · Expect about 15-20 blades before the engine fires · When the engine fires, smooth (not rapidly) move the mixture control to full rich · After idling, lean the mixture for smooth operation on the ground and during taxi Flood engine start procedure for the IO-360 in the M20E · Master switch on · Throttle, prop and mixture full forward · Boost pump on 3 seconds, then off · Mixture to IDLE/CUTOFF · Throttle full OPEN · Engage the starter · Slowly pull the throttle back towards idle as the engine is turning over with the starter engaged · When the throttled is reduced to about ½ to ¾ towards the idle position, the engine should fire after the throttle hits the position for the perfect fuel/air mixture for starting · When the engine fires, smoothly increase the mixture to full rich · Bring the throttle back to the normal idle speed (1000-1100RPM) · After idling awhile, lean the mixture for smooth operation on the ground and during taxi

Do you think this is really different than the standard procedure? With all the pushing and pulling you've put the throttle and mixture back where it was when you shut it down which is SOP.

OK Jim R. thanks.

That's useful. Now I wonder if my upgraded cowl is the equivalent of a J. If transcribed correctly I have: "Fiberglass nose cowl by AeroResources Inc STC SA7589SW" but I'm not sure if that included CFs.

Like the new pic - B26. You're probably right. I haven't flown for any amount of time since we pulled off the vernatherm valve and confirmed it was working. I understand the passages through the coolers are pretty small. We're headed to Maine next week so I'll get some good data. Annual due in August so might be a good time to swap out cooler.

Corvus, the relocation of the cooler should improve OT quite a bit. As I understand it, the lower cowl location is a pretty dead air zone. (It is possible I need to get the cooler overhauled though my temps are not that bad. With CF open I can stay below 200. CF closed raises OT a few degrees.

Rwsavory wrote: "I assume Mooney had a good reason for the speed restriction. Shouldn't you explore why you have the high OT indication first?" Not sure why you assumed we had not done anything... we've done many things including adding a JPI 930 to monitor and reduce CHT & OT, replaced baffle seals, removed and inspected oil filter bypass valve... jrwilson wrote: "Which was the lower cowl mod? Not the enclosure, right? Because that would not effect cowl flaps." I'm not sure what the question is about what mod we have. Here's a couple of pics...