larryb

Another perfect application for a 3D printer.

For silicon my shop recommended medium loctite on the screws. I tighten around twice. First to 10 in-lb and then 15 in-lb on the second pass. If you keep going around and around with a setting of 25 in-lb you don't really get there because the gasket keeps compressing more and more until it is crushed. The light torque required for silicon is not tight enough to keep it from vibrating out without the loctite.

I have all three servos removed from my 1997 encore if you are interested.

I admit I haven't read every post on this, so I apologize if this has been answered. Has anybody tried the Starlink Mini facing out the side rear window at a slight upward angle? I would like one, but really don't want it on the glareshield. I fly with the rear seats removed and am sure I could rig some sort of appropriate mount back there. Thanks, Larry

I use a CO2 inflator for my bike. I have one in my Mooney toolkit but have never used it. I've used it several times on the bike. The advantage is it can just sit at the ready for years. This inflator looks cool but the downside is making sure the battery stays charged.

I started out with a GXM 40 antenna mounted under the glare shield in my J model. It worked great, never a signal drop out. When I got my K it was another story. Could not find a location either under or on top of the glare shield that worked. Many signal dropouts. Even tried a different GXM 40. Same result. I suspect some sort of interference but never found it. I gave up and went with the GDL52 and remote antennas and never looked back.

I have the GDL52R mounted in the tail with a gps/xm antenna on top of the cabin and an ADSB antenna mounted inside the fiberglass belly pan. It has worked perfectly for years. It also has more robust connectors than the portable version.

My experience is that the relays are the weak link. Mooney made a few mistakes in the design of that circuit that impact reliability, at least in my 1997 Encore.

Last year I had a GFC 500 installed in my plane which already had the Aspen 2500. I had a GI275 installed to control it. The Aspen system and the autopilot systems are completely independent. That means flight director shows on the 275 and not the Aspen. Altimeter must be set in both.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/v5htpg56mo4smumeulxxf/ABkeXx0_cIr6Co371xzlSHg?rlkey=7rvebe53si4h88tquenz13h7a&st=bq1hhhoi&dl=0

You mean this? It has fans and a power pocket for voltage converter.

Well that aircraft spruce page shows no stock. So they don't actually have one. However Main Turbo obtained a core from somewhere and the housing was acceptable. So we are back on track.

Thanks! I'll forward this to my shop.

Plane in annual. Shop finds turbo needs work. Shop sends turbo to Main Turbo. Main Turbo finds turbo housing is toast and no housings nor turbos seem to be available anywhere. So... Does anybody have one lying around? TCM/Garret M/N TA04111 P/N6459151-1 Thanks, Larry

Took a full re-install to get past this hang

I was able to update the app itself but have been stuck here for an hour

No I wouldn’t. Mate N Lok are not sealed and are not positive locking. They are kind of friction locked. I’d use them for non critical things such as USB power ports, music, less important lighting, etc. And only in dry low vibration areas. I think of the auto pilot as a safety critical item. Of course we all know how to fly the plane without the AP but I would want my AP install to be as robust as possible. After paying thousands for the AP it doesn’t make sense to be cheap on the servo power wiring. Also, I am an EE but not an A&P nor an avionics tech. These are just opinions.

Another retired EE here, and I do like the Molex connectors. I use them extensively for personal projects. The few issues I have had are in the initial crimping and assembly. I've never had one fail in service. Having the proper crimper makes using them (or any connector really) much faster and easier. Crimping with needle nose pliers and then soldering is tedious. I would use them in a plane in non-critical areas. That said, I probably would not use one for autopilot wiring. I would want the best and most reliable connector. I consider the Molex to be adequate, certainly not the best. I have no experience with the Deutsch connectors but I would look into them. I like that they are environmentally sealed. CPC connectors are not environmentally sealed. Finally, Molex connectors are not the same as Mate-N-Lok. The are similar but not compatible with each other. My Mooney has a number of Mate-N-Lok connectors from the factory. Larry

They can also loosen up. Every couple of months I like to take a screw driver to them and make sure all are snug. On my previous Mooney I had a loose screw cause a lot of wear ruining the spinner. And the tightening order matters too.

How old is your detector? After 2 years they typically need a new battery and calibration. My Sensorcon started reading higher than normal after 2 years. I did get a couple of alerts in the 40 to 50 range. The airplane was inspected and no trouble found. I got a new battery but then decided to just get a new unit rather than deal with calibration. Magically my airplane was fixed with the new unit. Larry

I used this for the inside of the O2 push-pull cable. They sell all sizes, so measure yours and order appropriately. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9495K92 Larry

A few years ago I built a device to measure humidity and thermostatically control the engine heater. Through experimentation I found keeping the engine at 90 degrees keeps the humidity less than 40%. For a constant amount of moisture a higher temperature results in a lower RH.

I look at MP and fuel flow. If you don't have normal fuel flow then you aren't making proper power and/or your temps will soon be too high.

Mine is a factory original 1997 Encore. Factory tank sealant and factory paint. I don’t know that I have any sealant issues, just the paint issue.

Have you thought of dripping fuel on painted surfaces for an extended amount of time? Perhaps something in the air is making the difference vs soaking the part. Or perhaps variations in the evaporation rates are causing the concentrations of the chemicals to change?