larryb

I look at MP and fuel flow. If you don't have normal fuel flow then you aren't making proper power and/or your temps will soon be too high.

Mine is a factory original 1997 Encore. Factory tank sealant and factory paint. I don’t know that I have any sealant issues, just the paint issue.

Have you thought of dripping fuel on painted surfaces for an extended amount of time? Perhaps something in the air is making the difference vs soaking the part. Or perhaps variations in the evaporation rates are causing the concentrations of the chemicals to change?

My aircraft, which I posted in #49 is a 1997 encore with factory paint. The paint missing around the rivets bubbled up and rubbed off 1 week after my first tank of GU100. The paint there was fine before but is is possible or likely the rivets seeped a bit of fuel before. Regarding the drain port it is actually only a few years old. It was replaced under my ownership when the previous one leaked. Not sure why the current one is leaking, perhaps a bit of debris bought in the valve.

This is my plane one week after taking about 15 gallons in each side. The seeps are not new but the result of the seep is stripped paint. I’d be very wary of using this fuel if your tanks are not perfect.

The Garmin 796 (and maybe others) has a NMEA sentence output that includes HAT, which is height above terrain. I did build something with a Microchip PIC to decode this and airspeed and the gear position and alarm if necessary. It worked well. It didn’t talk but it did light up and beep. But now I have the LHS and am no longer using my old design.

I use the sensorcon. It wasn't a huge amount more CO or even enough to trigger the alarm. But it wasn't enough to make me look around. I don't recall exact numbers.

I see different numbers in climb vs cruise vs descent. If the cowl flap is fully open on landing the alarm will sound. Generally I see 20 in climb and 0 to 5 in cruse. This is over two mooneys. I did have elevated numbers for a bit and found a missing camlock on the front of the belly pan that was causing it.

Seems like we are all happy with our choice and we are all having a good result.

There was one single follow up visit after surgery and no discussion about locking anything in.

I have the Vivity Toric multi-focal in both eyes. First eye done a year ago and second one done just this September. As a pilot and engineer with high expectations, I couldn't be happier with the choice. I only use reading glasses for extended reading. I do not need reading glasses for incidental use of my phone or activity such as reading a restaurant menu. I have no halo effect at night. I see better now than ever before.

I got mine done yesterday. I decided to go late in the day and avoid the expected morning rush. That worked well, I walked right up to the desk and was out in 5 minutes. And the STC refund was promptly applied. It will be very nice to be able to buy fuel at my home airport again. Lack of fuel was a real pain. Finally something good happening at RHV. Larry

I'm not in the business of making aircraft parts, but I'll share the files. See the dropbox link below. There are two versions of the arms, one with a power box and one without. The power box is designed to hold switching voltage converters to power the iPad and the fans. If you want the power box version then you can print the lids as well. The power box is designed for 4-40 brass inserts for the lid screws. Fans are 40mm standard muffin fans. Using this design will require some electronics expertise to wire up the fans/power and make it look pretty. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/v5htpg56mo4smumeulxxf/ABkeXx0_cIr6Co371xzlSHg?rlkey=7rvebe53si4h88tquenz13h7a&dl=0

Yes, it uses fans. It has ridges and vents designed to direct the airflow over the entire back of the iPad. The yoke mount has an upper and lower half with integrated screw holes and captured hex nut so it screws together tightly around the yoke. Once the upper and lower yoke half's are attached the iPad mount itself is screwed to the yoke mounts. There are 3 separate printed pieces in the design.

3D printed mount with active cooling. I had overheating once in a while before I built this. Not one overheat since.

If you are just a little bit technically inclined it's easy to check with these automated testers. Lots cheaper than having a shop do it. And less down-time as well. Larry https://www.ebay.com/itm/355674571930?itmmeta=01J4WT16D7M504FM71EDBVAPG6&hash=item52cfdb449a:g:R5AAAOSwstJmLxnD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HkqbIbAmrTTVqu5wWCYxR5enELks7HQT2w14pWPKFbjmWVwq7bfAvPD0sM3ZUaHulAeM8w%2BAUQ0QuQiFtU74aiwM0xznsinxaZ22DA4P8kkJqJaAI4s2dW%2BQq%2BaUUfgpsVyYl6SsXLz3vBNYQDKcEeR07KoWJz1hXVkJGGL4TpOoSEW78fBvRonefaaTSqrlsyDwsCm2%2BRFQSwUXHjdH4%2F6qkJgqH%2BHEuoQGmIDgpy%2FMwjsefg7YQ8wmzFGB1wcFo%2Fy3rTyjCAmLkqLxLB%2BJnQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBM2uaEmqdk

While I don't know the innards of the KC192, replacing a capacitor on a board is not difficult for a skilled electronics technician. The particular capacitor is not generally critical. Just match the capacitance rating. Voltage rating can be >= the old part. Pretty much any replacement capacitor that is able to physically fit should work. www.mouser.com has thousands of different capacitors in stock. I would try to find a technician willing to do it before buying a whole replacement unit.

What’s wrong with 180 knots?

For me the source of that problem was the pillow bearing for the trim tube in the rear avionics compartment. Just needed a shot of tri flow.

The panels and pumps are different as already mentioned. When I was shopping for my own TKS Mooney I wanted FIKI only. I figured if I was paying to own and maintain it, it may as well be full FIKI. I rejected a couple candidates that were not FIKI.

I would give the exhaust system a good visual looking over. Look for white or tan deposits which indicate leaks. As long as the system looks good I would not worry about what you saw. I have seen similar behavior on the ground with a tailwind.

Tailwind or headwind in the ground? I had this happen one time on the ground with a stiff tailwind.

For mine I 3D printed seat rail attachment mounts. Even though plastic they failed at 700 lb pull and I use 4. Should be strong enough. The upper section of the net clips to the shoulder harness attach points.

In this case we just have to depend on the Aspen to properly manage the battery charge state. The user does not have any control over the battery. The battery is made of 2 18650 cells, which can be purchased for around $5 each. In theory, the existing pack could be overhauled with new cells. I buy Samsung cells from https://www.18650batterystore.com. I don't buy unknown cells off of Amazon. Equipment needed is a battery spot welder, nickel strips, and shrink wrap.