larryb

Took a full re-install to get past this hang

I was able to update the app itself but have been stuck here for an hour

No I wouldn’t. Mate N Lok are not sealed and are not positive locking. They are kind of friction locked. I’d use them for non critical things such as USB power ports, music, less important lighting, etc. And only in dry low vibration areas. I think of the auto pilot as a safety critical item. Of course we all know how to fly the plane without the AP but I would want my AP install to be as robust as possible. After paying thousands for the AP it doesn’t make sense to be cheap on the servo power wiring. Also, I am an EE but not an A&P nor an avionics tech. These are just opinions.

Another retired EE here, and I do like the Molex connectors. I use them extensively for personal projects. The few issues I have had are in the initial crimping and assembly. I've never had one fail in service. Having the proper crimper makes using them (or any connector really) much faster and easier. Crimping with needle nose pliers and then soldering is tedious. I would use them in a plane in non-critical areas. That said, I probably would not use one for autopilot wiring. I would want the best and most reliable connector. I consider the Molex to be adequate, certainly not the best. I have no experience with the Deutsch connectors but I would look into them. I like that they are environmentally sealed. CPC connectors are not environmentally sealed. Finally, Molex connectors are not the same as Mate-N-Lok. The are similar but not compatible with each other. My Mooney has a number of Mate-N-Lok connectors from the factory. Larry

They can also loosen up. Every couple of months I like to take a screw driver to them and make sure all are snug. On my previous Mooney I had a loose screw cause a lot of wear ruining the spinner. And the tightening order matters too.

How old is your detector? After 2 years they typically need a new battery and calibration. My Sensorcon started reading higher than normal after 2 years. I did get a couple of alerts in the 40 to 50 range. The airplane was inspected and no trouble found. I got a new battery but then decided to just get a new unit rather than deal with calibration. Magically my airplane was fixed with the new unit. Larry

I used this for the inside of the O2 push-pull cable. They sell all sizes, so measure yours and order appropriately. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9495K92 Larry

A few years ago I built a device to measure humidity and thermostatically control the engine heater. Through experimentation I found keeping the engine at 90 degrees keeps the humidity less than 40%. For a constant amount of moisture a higher temperature results in a lower RH.

I look at MP and fuel flow. If you don't have normal fuel flow then you aren't making proper power and/or your temps will soon be too high.

Mine is a factory original 1997 Encore. Factory tank sealant and factory paint. I don’t know that I have any sealant issues, just the paint issue.

Have you thought of dripping fuel on painted surfaces for an extended amount of time? Perhaps something in the air is making the difference vs soaking the part. Or perhaps variations in the evaporation rates are causing the concentrations of the chemicals to change?

My aircraft, which I posted in #49 is a 1997 encore with factory paint. The paint missing around the rivets bubbled up and rubbed off 1 week after my first tank of GU100. The paint there was fine before but is is possible or likely the rivets seeped a bit of fuel before. Regarding the drain port it is actually only a few years old. It was replaced under my ownership when the previous one leaked. Not sure why the current one is leaking, perhaps a bit of debris bought in the valve.

This is my plane one week after taking about 15 gallons in each side. The seeps are not new but the result of the seep is stripped paint. I’d be very wary of using this fuel if your tanks are not perfect.

The Garmin 796 (and maybe others) has a NMEA sentence output that includes HAT, which is height above terrain. I did build something with a Microchip PIC to decode this and airspeed and the gear position and alarm if necessary. It worked well. It didn’t talk but it did light up and beep. But now I have the LHS and am no longer using my old design.

I use the sensorcon. It wasn't a huge amount more CO or even enough to trigger the alarm. But it wasn't enough to make me look around. I don't recall exact numbers.

I see different numbers in climb vs cruise vs descent. If the cowl flap is fully open on landing the alarm will sound. Generally I see 20 in climb and 0 to 5 in cruse. This is over two mooneys. I did have elevated numbers for a bit and found a missing camlock on the front of the belly pan that was causing it.

Seems like we are all happy with our choice and we are all having a good result.

There was one single follow up visit after surgery and no discussion about locking anything in.

I have the Vivity Toric multi-focal in both eyes. First eye done a year ago and second one done just this September. As a pilot and engineer with high expectations, I couldn't be happier with the choice. I only use reading glasses for extended reading. I do not need reading glasses for incidental use of my phone or activity such as reading a restaurant menu. I have no halo effect at night. I see better now than ever before.

I got mine done yesterday. I decided to go late in the day and avoid the expected morning rush. That worked well, I walked right up to the desk and was out in 5 minutes. And the STC refund was promptly applied. It will be very nice to be able to buy fuel at my home airport again. Lack of fuel was a real pain. Finally something good happening at RHV. Larry

I'm not in the business of making aircraft parts, but I'll share the files. See the dropbox link below. There are two versions of the arms, one with a power box and one without. The power box is designed to hold switching voltage converters to power the iPad and the fans. If you want the power box version then you can print the lids as well. The power box is designed for 4-40 brass inserts for the lid screws. Fans are 40mm standard muffin fans. Using this design will require some electronics expertise to wire up the fans/power and make it look pretty. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/v5htpg56mo4smumeulxxf/ABkeXx0_cIr6Co371xzlSHg?rlkey=7rvebe53si4h88tquenz13h7a&dl=0

Yes, it uses fans. It has ridges and vents designed to direct the airflow over the entire back of the iPad. The yoke mount has an upper and lower half with integrated screw holes and captured hex nut so it screws together tightly around the yoke. Once the upper and lower yoke half's are attached the iPad mount itself is screwed to the yoke mounts. There are 3 separate printed pieces in the design.

3D printed mount with active cooling. I had overheating once in a while before I built this. Not one overheat since.

If you are just a little bit technically inclined it's easy to check with these automated testers. Lots cheaper than having a shop do it. And less down-time as well. Larry https://www.ebay.com/itm/355674571930?itmmeta=01J4WT16D7M504FM71EDBVAPG6&hash=item52cfdb449a:g:R5AAAOSwstJmLxnD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HkqbIbAmrTTVqu5wWCYxR5enELks7HQT2w14pWPKFbjmWVwq7bfAvPD0sM3ZUaHulAeM8w%2BAUQ0QuQiFtU74aiwM0xznsinxaZ22DA4P8kkJqJaAI4s2dW%2BQq%2BaUUfgpsVyYl6SsXLz3vBNYQDKcEeR07KoWJz1hXVkJGGL4TpOoSEW78fBvRonefaaTSqrlsyDwsCm2%2BRFQSwUXHjdH4%2F6qkJgqH%2BHEuoQGmIDgpy%2FMwjsefg7YQ8wmzFGB1wcFo%2Fy3rTyjCAmLkqLxLB%2BJnQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBM2uaEmqdk